Yokomo Bmax2 M

[Cougar99]

Is the yokomo bmax2 worlds car any good on low to medium grip surfaces like outdoor sandy or wet astro turf? Thanks

[mes]

If set up properly, it will be more than capable. With a more flexible chassis, (in this case plastic or skyaflake's cf chassis) any car will be more forgiving to a less than perfect set-up und as such easier to drive on lower grip tracks.

[Cougar99]

Thanks, I think I am going to probably go for the factory team yokomo bmax2 then to suit the tracks I race on then if I get one.

[mes]

Considering the price of the worlds chassis alone I'd probably get the worlds car and go for an additional (cheaper) more flexible chassis. You can also tune chassis flex with the cf and plastic battery mounts.

[Cougar99]

Ok I'll bear that in mind thanks :)

[mekios]

Has anyone found an aluminum replacement for those hub shims? I mean the transparent and black ones? These transparent especially are brittle like sh$t.
I've seen a photo of Naotos car with some blue anodized ones, but cannot find them...

[StwBald]

Has anyone found an aluminum replacement for those hub shims?

I had to use one of these (cannot remember which thickness) and a kit black shim, as two kit ones were too tight.

http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php/catalogsearch/result/?q=ZC-A3610
http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php/catalogsearch/result/?q=ZC-A3615
http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php/catalogsearch/result/?q=ZC-A3620

[mes]

New Yokomo Europe FR brass suspension mount available:
https://scontent-b-ams.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/t1.0-9/s403x403/1979530_749132735097279_198323306_n.jpg

[skyaflake]

Great for low traction situations. Yokomo Europe's quality is great, as usual.

As I'm mostly driving on medium to high traction tracks there's no need for me to actually use it, but I could use it as a tuning option.

I'm currently (slowly) rebuilding the B-Max2 with a hard gearbox (i've ran the stock gearbox since it came out, never had problems) and with a harder ackermann plate (made out of carbon) which i'm going to test. I had to shim the steering posts to reduce the slop. Feels smooth again.

My shocks held up great and they will only get some fresh o-rings and oil. I'm using CSI pistons at the moment, but will switch to 1.7/1.6*2 soon. Just to feel the difference as some team-drivers prefer them over the 4 hole design.

The only thing i'm currently thinking about is to switch to a 6.5 motor for outdoor. I prefer a little bit of overpower, so probably for me it's fine. The only downside is the battery drain. So I will need to test if I can drive about 9-10 minutes (just to be sure) with a shorty in the car. Let's hope so.

[neallewis]

Great for low traction situations. Yokomo Europe's quality is great, as usual.

I'll pick one of these up this week as MB have them due in.




I'm currently (slowly) rebuilding the B-Max2 with a hard gearbox (i've ran the stock gearbox since it came out, never had problems)

I just did mine. Replaced topshaft and bearings as well as going back to new plastic idlers. I found that the topshaft was wearing away the first idler, which was leaving aluminium filings inside the gearbox. The first ali idler was worn with angled teeth, as if contact with the topshaft was not square. Hopefully the new bearings and hard case will sort this out? The second ali idler, the one that drives the diff was not worn at all. I caught it all before a failure anyway.
I wonder if its best to run steel topshaft, plastic idler, ali idler then to diff?

and with a harder ackermann plate (made out of carbon) which i'm going to test. I had to shim the steering posts to reduce the slop. Feels smooth again.

Have you got a photo of this please?


The only thing i'm currently thinking about is to switch to a 6.5 motor for outdoor. I prefer a little bit of overpower, so probably for me it's fine. The only downside is the battery drain. So I will need to test if I can drive about 9-10 minutes (just to be sure) with a shorty in the car. Let's hope so.

You should easily get that run time. I've had 20mins out of mine with shorty and 7.5 outside.

[skyaflake]

I'll pick one of these up this week as MB have them due in.





I just did mine. Replaced topshaft and bearings as well as going back to new plastic idlers. I found that the topshaft was wearing away the first idler, which was leaving aluminium filings inside the gearbox. The first ali idler was worn with angled teeth, as if contact with the topshaft was not square. Hopefully the new bearings and hard case will sort this out? The second ali idler, the one that drives the diff was not worn at all. I caught it all before a failure anyway.
I wonder if its best to run steel topshaft, plastic idler, ali idler then to diff?

I used to ran all plastic. Switched to full Alu and going to try it out in the outdoor season. While running plastic idler gears I broke 3. The top one every time. So I guess you should be allright with a plastic idler, but it must not be sloppy else it will break.




Have you got a photo of this please?

I will post one asap. It's no that special. Just playing around.




You should easily get that run time. I've had 20mins out of mine with shorty and 7.5 outside.
I've ran a 7.5 inside and used about 1400mAh when running 5.5 mins, so for 9 minutes with a 6.5 I guess I will drain ~2100mAh, which is fine. I run 4200mAh batteries. I just hope the batteries will give me punch throughout the whole run.

[mes]

I did not have any problems with the plastic idlers, but switched to aluminum nonetheless. After running the car for a day, I found that I did not like the sound of the transmission at all, but wanted to try something (probably) more durable than the std plastic idlers. Now I am running the TeamC polyamid idlers, which are a perfect fit and decrease the stress on my ears. ;)

[skyaflake]

What's the part number of the Team-C idlers? Always good to try out.

[skyaflake]

For those wanting a worlds chassis, but don't need all the bling. The V3 has been announced. Comes with better lower shock cartridges, this should solve the problem the shocks have with sucking in air.

http://teamyokomo.com/news/order_sheet/14/140319_b_max2mr3.pdf

@mes, thanks. Will try those.

[mes]

What's the part number of the Team-C idlers? Always good to try out.
TeamC Part No TU0259
http://www.teamcracing.net/components/com_virtuemart/show_image_in_imgtag.php?filename=resized%2FTU0259 _28T_POM_G_4deee0a6cd0b4_90x90.jpg&newxsize=90&newysize=90&fileout=

[mes]

For those wanting a worlds chassis, but don't need all the bling. The V3 has been announced. Comes with better lower shock cartridges, this should solve the problem the shocks have with sucking in air.

http://teamyokomo.com/news/order_sheet/14/140319_b_max2mr3.pdf

Nice way for me to upgrade and give my son a lower spec MR2 at the same time! Unless there will be a version with the front hex wheel conversion, that is... ;)
I guess we will know more after Tokyo Hobby Show in late April.

[neallewis]

Google translate:

Notice of Corporation Yokomo new product launches

High grip course orientation of the artificial turf carpet road surface, etc.

B-MAX2 MR popular model change! Standard with the new aluminium main chassis, which is integrated to the front of the skid plate, the height of the rigidity
I show the driving characteristics of good response to the weapon. In response to artificial turf carpet road surface and it is growing these days in particular, running a high-grip road surface method which will be a major future
But I will win the advantage. In addition, the blurring of the shock shaft by shock bottom cap is also changed, mounting the new plastic shaft guide
To prevent, reduce contamination of air into the cylinder, it grew maintenance cycle sense of stability and shock absorption.

V3 features:

And new design aluminium one-piece main chassis
(Can be selected mid-motor, rear of motor)
And new design Aluminium Rear Suspension Mount
(3,3.5,4 ° toe-selectable)
Cab Forward type NEW body
Steel turn buckle
Double pad slipper clutch
- Aluminium front brace
· "C-clip" universal shaft
Full ball bearings
Paradise-off-road wing
Pinion gear with wheel (without tires)

[neallewis]

web page for the v3:
http://teamyokomo.com/product/offroad/b_max2mr3/b_max2mr3.html

Google chrome should translate if for you. it does for me.

edit: it doesn't look to have hex wheels.

[AfroP]

wish they would stop doing a new version of the car every 3 months.
it really kills the resale value of the original kit regardless of if you have added parts to it or not.

[neallewis]

wish they would stop doing a new version of the car every 3 months.
it really kills the resale value of the original kit regardless of if you have added parts to it or not.

it looks like the only new part is the shock bottoms. it's most likely a cheaper way to get a full alu chassis though.
It doesn't look to have any bling parts, so a replacement for the lower spec kits.

[mes]

I've got no problem with constant evolution, I'd hate it if they released a really new car as often, though. Yokomo's policy enables new customers to get an up-to-date car without buying every new part individually, and owners of previous versions can update their cars to the extent they like, in the case of radical changes even in the form of reasonably priced conversion kits. From my point of view there is no way for a company that is really serious about racing (and depends on selling quality stuff) to do it better. I doubt any manufacturer is interested in the used car market at all.

I got my B-Max2 when it was released two years ago, and thanks to the MR conversion kit I was able to keep it up to date by buying one part at a time - although I upgraded to Factory standard a little bit quicker. ;)

[MHeadling]

Has anyone else tried the BM-008R rear arms on the Bmax 2??

Seems like they need a bit of a dremel judging by the pics of Naoto's car

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/yokomo/setupbmax2/Bmax2MR_NaotoMatsukura_Trencin2014030709/

I'v ordered up a pair to try out on my car

[boy_lard100]

I have to agree new cars/evolutions are released and does drop the second hand market,
The good points are that it does open up the more budget end to try and encourage younger people into the sport,
I have just picked up a second bmax2 just because it was the right price,
Yes I know with the ver3 being released its not going to be worth much but then it's almost worth keeping as second cars or letting the kids use them.

[mes]

I installed the BM rear arms, but will only be able to test them on a track in April. Only differences to the EOS Slovakia set-up on my car are the lack of hard plastic parts and the world spec chassis, and from testing in my living room I'd say that steering seems to have improved compared to the last EOS set-up sheet.

[skyaflake]

I have them ready (took them from my old B-Max4 II) for testing. Probably soon, as I don't have any time for racing this month. :(

[neallewis]

i ran the BM-008R arms tonight for last round and final. went the quickest I'd gone all night, car was awesome at high speed turns and rear was really locked in. Q 2nd in B final, won that and bumped up to A final. really happy with the car. low traction rubber village hall floor. i gopro'd the finals, which I'll upload. after the new arms went on, the car felt super good and stable in the rear.
not sure why lee and naoto used them for high grip as it certainly helped lock in more grip on the low traction for me.

[mes]

Hmm, maybe the best of two worlds: wider stance good for high grip tracks, more droop good for less traction. :confused::thumbsup:

[evertonal]

When fitting the BM-008 rear arms to the B-Max 2, do you have to make any modifications to the arms, hubs etc?

[mes]

You have got to remove a little material in the rear, cf. pics of Naoto's car at the last EOS race.

[MHeadling]

Here is my quick guide on how to fit BM-008R arms to your B-Max 2

http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy114/headling/2014-03/24AE33A8-6590-4DD3-9FE9-2E90C49F1F2B.jpg (http://s783.photobucket.com/user/headling/media/2014-03/24AE33A8-6590-4DD3-9FE9-2E90C49F1F2B.jpg.html)

As you can see these are the parts your need for the conversion

BM-008R arms
2.6mm bolts for outer hinge pin
1mm shim for rear hub spacing
A Dremel!

Dremel the rear of the arms as per pic to 33.92mm (measure you original arms to be sure)

Dremel the arms down to the same size as the original arms

Fit as per normal, make sure they clear the rear hinge pin brace and the arms fall under their own weight

http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy114/headling/2014-03/5E9B675E-7B42-4D58-9EBA-4859311D069F.jpg (http://s783.photobucket.com/user/headling/media/2014-03/5E9B675E-7B42-4D58-9EBA-4859311D069F.jpg.html)

Fit hubs as per normal but use one std 1.3mm shim and you'll need a 1mm shim as the BM008 arms are a bit narrower than the kit arms

http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy114/headling/2014-03/D386BCBC-7C99-4327-85ED-6B9DF61638CC.jpg (http://s783.photobucket.com/user/headling/media/2014-03/D386BCBC-7C99-4327-85ED-6B9DF61638CC.jpg.html)

Bolts to hold in the outer hinge pin, the kit ones are too small, you'll need 2.6mm bolts for the BM008 arms, I used tamiya ones but yokomo bmax 4 II bolts will be perfect

Finished:

http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy114/headling/4A7B9E9C-FEFA-490E-AF51-F018083122E1.jpg (http://s783.photobucket.com/user/headling/media/4A7B9E9C-FEFA-490E-AF51-F018083122E1.jpg.html)


Note: re check your camber and wind down the spring collars to raise the ride height back to normal 18-20mm

[neallewis]

Nice guide, yes I forgot to add you need the bigger outer hinge pin screws.

Actually, is the car narrower with these on? back to backed it with a regular one tonight and it seemed a few mm narrower. I was expecting it to be wider.

[janus_77]

Aren't the shocks binding when fully compressed ?

[neallewis]

not on mine?

[smokes]

i wonder if this mod would work at batley outdoors.

[mes]

Aren't the shocks binding when fully compressed ?

not on mine?

Neither on mine.

[mekios]

He who searches, finds...

http://www.teamyokomo.com/partslist/b2/b2_hcov.jpg

http://www.teamyokomo.com/partslist/b2/b2_010fh.jpg

http://www.teamyokomo.com/partslist/b4/b4_011f.jpg

http://www.teamyokomo.com/partslist/b2/b2_415sh.jpg

From http://www.teamyokomo.com/partslist/chassis/bmax2_mr.html

[neallewis]

He who searches, finds...

http://www.teamyokomo.com/partslist/b2/b2_hcov.jpg

http://www.teamyokomo.com/partslist/b2/b2_010fh.jpg

http://www.teamyokomo.com/partslist/b4/b4_011f.jpg

http://www.teamyokomo.com/partslist/b2/b2_415sh.jpg

From http://www.teamyokomo.com/partslist/chassis/bmax2_mr.html

Very nice. is there a specific 2wd front wheel for this, or are they suggesting to use the bmax4iii wheels?

To be fair I've no issue with using the AE bearing front axles as I've lots of wheels to use.

[neallewis]

RE: Hex Front wheels:

http://www.teamyokomo.com/partslist/b2/parts_b2_821hw.html
http://www.teamyokomo.com/partslist/b2/parts_b2_821hy.html


I guess what's now missing is the rear hex part number specifically for the BMAX2?

[mes]

Right, but that's not a big thing. Finally we've got the official conversion kit, so I guess I can put my AE conversion to rest before running it once. I am not a big fan of workaround solutions. :yawn:
The hex conversion might be the last upgrade for my trusty Max. After running the Yoke for two years, there's definitely room for something new next to it and my son's SC10. :)

[mekios]

RE: Hex Front wheels:

http://www.teamyokomo.com/partslist/b2/parts_b2_821hw.html
http://www.teamyokomo.com/partslist/b2/parts_b2_821hy.html


I guess what's now missing is the rear hex part number specifically for the BMAX2?

Every hex wheel of other brands or tire brands should work. There isn't any significant offset to that wheel.

[muratti]

Is that conversion new? I can't find it anywhere in the Big shops...

[mekios]

Totally new. Not even posted in media websites.

[skyaflake]

Front hex conversion price is around 24 euro (23.8 to be precise).

Available from next Wednesday.:thumbsup:

[smokes]

I am wondering how long it will take for the updated shock cartridges to become available in the UK.

[skyaflake]

Next week. Available from distributor this Friday.

[GRIFF55]

What are the upgraded cartridges?

[mes]

These:

[janus_77]

These:
http://www.oople.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=66138&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1396282056 (http://www.oople.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=66138&d=1396282056)


Haha

http://www.oople.com/forums/showpost.php?p=830675&postcount=7 :D

[mes]

Better late than never! ;)

[GRIFF55]

Haha Janus, your a star!

[MHeadling]

Hi Guys, after a bit of set up help.

I race at Maritime raceway in Kent and my bmax 2 is pretty good but I could do with a bit more intial turn in on the car.

I am running Lee's set up, the only difference is I am running Losi Blue front springs (Did try kit springs but made the understeer worse in my case)

http://l-m-racing.co.uk/?p=596

Any ideas welcome from you set up guru's!

[neallewis]

Hi Guys, after a bit of set up help.

I race at Maritime raceway in Kent and my bmax 2 is pretty good but I could do with a bit more intial turn in on the car.

I am running Lee's set up, the only difference is I am running Losi Blue front springs (Did try kit springs but made the understeer worse in my case)

http://l-m-racing.co.uk/?p=596

Any ideas welcome from you set up guru's!

No idea what rate the losi blue spring is, but I find I like the AE grey fronts.
You could try the BMAX4-2 rear arm mod. They are a touch narrower and do give some more steering without rear grip loss.

What front tyres are you using?

[MHeadling]

Hi Neal,

Im running yellow cut staggers on the front and mini pins on the rear.

The losi Blue is 3.8lb

I am running the Bmax II rear arms (I wrote the guide on here and Petit rc) which has helped the front end feel of the car

The car is ok once its in the corner but i would like it to have a sharper initial turn in.

I wonder if I could mod B4 25 deg caster blocks onto it?

[sheddy]

Hi Mark,

At the regional on Sunday just gone I ran front AE 35, 1.6 2hole, AE blue, shocks fully in on tower, middle wishbone and rear AE, 1.6 2hole, AE green. 1mm spacer front bulkhead, fully in on tower, outside wishbone.

2k diff oil.

Big improvement when running a shorty forward with 80g of weight compared to a saddle lipo.

Everything else as worlds kit setting.

Dave

[MHeadling]

Thanks Dave, much appreciated

[Gunthar Guntharsën]

Just some info: I've been trying the TRX2362 x-rings, which seem to work very well so far. I've used the AE shock shaft guide mod, together with the 2 small clear spacers and the tall white spacer in the TRX package instead of the yokomo spacers. The TRX x-rings are tighter around the shock shaft than the original o-rings (or the AE rings which I've also tried), so they need almost no pressure on them from the spacers (the AE shock guide also adds about 0,8mm of spacing btw).

There's almost no friction in the shock like this, no leaking and no rebound building up.

http://www.trxxs-winkel.nl/trx2362-schokbreker-revisie-kit-voor-schokbrekers-p-1811.html

[mihael]

I hope, i have enough grip and steering with saddle pack/rear configuration on low traction dirt surface. Tires are wrong. I wait for the yokomo hex conversion till i order new wheels.

[mes]

In case of an aluminum chassis you may want to use the plastic battery brace for more flex. Otherwise it should be fine; more weight in the rear will help a lot.

[mihael]

I use the plastic chassis

[skyaflake]

I've changed to the full 'worlds' chassis to stiffen up to car a little bit. Kinda curious how that will work out next time at the track. My front bulk-head added slop to my steering, but now with the alu there is no slop so should work alright.

And also, two new painted bodies on my way. Will post pictures when I receive them, all mounted up.

@Mihael nice looking car.

[J'MM'N]

I'm kind of liking the ball diff grease that came with the kit and want to get some more. Can anyone tell me if this is the same stuff.

[skyaflake]

CS-DG is the normal grease. CS-HDL's viscosity is higher than the one that's in the kit, but that's not a problem in off-road racing. :thumbsup:

[mihael]

yesterday i ordered the new front hex conversion from team yokomo.eu ,today it arrives :-) great :-)

[StwBald]

What's the best Diff balls to use with the bmax2 diff rings Carbide or Ceramic..??

[skyaflake]

Ceramic balls lasts longer, but takes a bit of time to get to the sweet spot. They do tend to slip a bit more than carbide balls.

I've been using Ceramic all the way and it works great in the Yokomo diff. But they are more expensive than carbide balls. If you can get your hands on ceramic I would take ceramic, else carbide should be great too. If you do regular maintenance to your diffs there should be no better, only ceramic last longer.

[flipside]

No idea what rate the losi blue spring is, but I find I like the AE grey fronts.
You could try the BMAX4-2 rear arm mod. They are a touch narrower and do give some more steering without rear grip loss.

What front tyres are you using?


The rear bmax4-2 arms make the car wider ;)

[neallewis]

The rear bmax4-2 arms make the car wider ;)

Have you measured? or compared with a car on stock arms? The rear end is narrower with the BMAX4-2 arms.

[janus_77]

Have you measured? or compared with a car on stock arms? The rear end is narrower with the BMAX4-2 arms.

Nope, wider......

[MikePimlott]

Can anyone recommend some 2mm and 3mm shims/spacers for the inner and outer hingepins and the kingpins.

Just want to replace the Plastics kit parts and reduce a little slop.

[neallewis]

Nope, wider......

?

I've measured and compared mine (with bmax4-2 arms) and a couple of standard ones with kit arms. Mine is narrower at the rear.

I'll do it again and take photos when i can.

[Wacker 3]

We raced at the Telford regional on Sunday and ran the BMax4-2 rear wishbones with the BMax4-3 4.3mm hexes and the car is approximately 1.5mm narrower than the standard BMax2 MR rear end but if you fit the 5mm BMax4-3 rear hexes it makes the rear width the same :thumbsup:

[MHeadling]

I see quite a few of the yokomo team running rear roll bars on their bmax 2's

What's the part number for the roll bar kit? Is it a straight bolt on mod?

[neallewis]

I see quite a few of the yokomo team running rear roll bars on their bmax 2's

What's the part number for the roll bar kit? Is it a straight bolt on mod?

its listed on mb's site. the AE b4/b44 one fits also.

I've tried this over the winter indoors, but found the car better with a harder rear spring.
You get the rear end collapsing mid corner with a soft spring, the roll bar helped, but still had collapse. gone to a harder spring, and much better rear traction on low traction tracks.

[MHeadling]

Cheers Neal, I assume it'll be fine with bmax 4-2 rear arms ?

[neallewis]

Cheers Neal, I assume it'll be fine with bmax 4-2 rear arms ?

yes, ill check location of the ball on the arm to be sure. not used the roll bar since i went to bmax4-2 rear arms.

Naoto's car today: http://eos.redrc.net/2014/04/chassis-focus-naoto-matsukura-3/

hes runnning normal rear arms and the roll attaching to the front of the arm, not the moulded ball.

[neallewis]

yes, ill check location of the ball on the arm to be sure.

its fine. you can use the regular roll bar with the bmax 4-2 rear arms.

[MHeadling]

Thanks Neal :thumbsup:

[MHeadling]

Just a pic to help others who wish to add the roll bar to their bmax2's

Part no: BM-412

Pic:

http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy114/headling/2014-05/F50F8309-DD05-4141-A6E7-E7CC80C79CA4.jpg (http://s783.photobucket.com/user/headling/media/2014-05/F50F8309-DD05-4141-A6E7-E7CC80C79CA4.jpg.html)

The only extra you will need is 2 x bolts and washers to hold the roll bar in the bulkhead, I used bolts from B44 roll bar kit

[skyaflake]

Same way I'm running them. Thanks for the picture though :thumbsup:

[cpzao]

Hi,

apparently a lot of people are starting to use the rear arms of the BMAX 4-II.

What's the difference between the rear arms of the BMAX 4-II and BMAX 4-III?

The rear arms of the BMAX 4-III seem to be around 2mm wider than the BMAX2. and fit the car like a glove. I tried them on low traction carpet and absolutely loved the car.

Cheers.

[Paultje040]

They use the 4-II arms because they are shorter. Resulting in less grip but more steering. (Rear is more narrow)
Running on high grip astro it can be a very usefull tuning option.

[BazzerH]

Just bought the gear diff for my buggy. Bought some 5000cst diff oil as well as I didn't realise it came with a tub of lube. Which would you guys use, and how much? Also any other tricks to do to it before installing?

forgot to say will be used on med bite astro and grass

[MHeadling]

5000 is perfect, if you look at Lee martins set ups he tends to run 5k oil most of the time.

Just fill it up till the oil is just over the cross pins

[mes]

Yes, 5000 oil is great. I've run it with PTFE grease since the old version with the plastic gears was released and recently changed to 5000 oil, which has been an improvement. I think it is more consistent, the car has tons of on-power steering and there is no diffing-out. :thumbsup:

[AfroP]

MIP Shiney Drive system incoming for the Bmax 2MR

wonder if we'll be able to get them as Schumacher are the UK distributors for MIP

http://www.redrc.net/2014/05/mip-pucks-shiny-drive-system-for-b-max2-mr/

[dpackster1980]

I'll give them a miss, drivershaft wear doesn't seem to be an issue with the 2wd. It would be a nice option for the B-Max4 including centre shafts as gear diffs generally pumle the drivetrain.

[skyaflake]

My drive shafts are still fine after a year of racing. Quality is fine and I wouldn't bother buying the MIP axles. Just do regular maintenance to the Yokomo shafts and you are good to go.

[BazzerH]

My drive shafts are still fine after a year of racing. Quality is fine and I wouldn't bother buying the MIP axles. Just do regular maintenance to the Yokomo shafts and you are good to go.

What is a good regular maintenance regime on the drive shafts? :confused:

[Paultje040]

Clean them after a day of racing. Make sure there is no dust on the diff side.
Clean the wheel side and apply new grease

[janus_77]

I use driveshaft boots filled with grease on the wheel side.

In the outdrive I put an old piece of tire foam with a bit of grease on it. The foam ensures the outdrive to be relubed, and that most of the dirt is pushed away, when the suspension is compressed.
That piece of foam is replaced about every 3 days of running ( exept when its wet / really dusty, than every day )

[BazzerH]

Ok ill try that. Bit worried that grease would just attract dirt and sand etc so have been running the joints dry.

another question. .

i run shorty packs sideways and the 2 types I own are both a tight fit. Wondering whether to carry on running like that or shave a half mil from both side pods?

[Paultje040]

I milled out just enough to make the shorty fit.

I run to different brands and both needed some more room to fit nicely.
Turnigy and GensAce.

I run astro only, if you run loose dirt, try to minimize the use of grease. I'm not a fan of running these parts dry, moving parts wear fast when they get warm.

[janus_77]

Ok ill try that. Bit worried that grease would just attract dirt and sand etc so have been running the joints dry.

I also thought it was a stupid idea, and true the area around the outdrive looks horrible after a day of driving. But the moving parts stay clean :thumbsup:

[minty]

Hi, i think im going to purchase the Bmax2 MR Ver3 and ive just got a few questions.

Does the ver 3 kit come with metal gear diff internals and metal idler gears?

Also are there any upgrades that anyone feels are needed?

Has anyone found any parts to be particularly weak so i can order a few spares at the same time if needed?

Thanks

[dpackster1980]

You'll need nothing extra to make it stronger but I would buy the alloy bulkhead and the brass insert just as a tuning option.

It comes with a gear diff but personally I can't get away with it anywhere so I stick with the ball diff.

I have only broke a rear wishbone but was down to the type of track marking.

[minty]

You'll need nothing extra to make it stronger but I would buy the alloy bulkhead and the brass insert just as a tuning option.

It comes with a gear diff but personally I can't get away with it anywhere so I stick with the ball diff.

I have only broke a rear wishbone but was down to the type of track marking.


Cool thanks, I'll look into getting a ball diff as well

Do you know if the gear diff internals and idlers with the v3 are metal or plastic?

[minty]

Cool thanks, I'll look into getting a ball diff as well

Do you know if the gear diff internals and idlers with the v3 are metal or plastic?


Just looked on cml and it says the kit does come with the metal gears so nevermind :D

[dpackster1980]

Metal diff gears and gearbox internals.

[minty]

Metal diff gears and gearbox internals.

:thumbsup:

[neallewis]

Metal internals, buy you know that now. I find the ball diff lasts about one run on RHR astro before it feels like shite or starts slipping and needs tightening. The ball diff runs perfect on low traction tracks, but the astro kills it quickly. I find for astro the gear diff with 5k oil is perfect. I found with 3k you get the unloaded wheel spinning up a bit more, and lower than 3k is just silly, don't do it. I've also tried 7k, but went back to 5k. Not the oil, but the car was off that day, so I just went back to my previous setup.

Breakages. The car is really solid. I've done a few ball ends, on the rear when running long links. I went with a longer turnbuckle which helps stop them breaking. If you have the kit plastic rear hubs, get some spares, I've known them break. I've always had the alloy ones.
I've done one front wishbone, but it had taken some beating to get to that point. I've broken a top upper nose plate after a roll it cracked. I completed the day though with it cracked. I've also broken the front lower nose plate, where the steering cranks screw in. You won't have that problem with the full alloy chassis.

Extras and bling.
B4-415R00 - Aluminum rear hub carrier (Toe-in 0°) for B-MAX2/4: http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php/spares/yokomo/b-max2/b4-415r00-aluminum-rear-hub-carrier-toe-in-0-for-b-max2-4.html

Front alloy bulkhead with brass insert/ or the steel bulkhead or brass if you plan to run the shorty lipo down the centre as Lee Martin does now.
B2-300FLA - B-MAX2MR/RS Front lower suspension mount: http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php/spares/yokomo/b-max2/b2-300fla-b-max2mr-rs-front-lower-suspension-mount.html
B2-300FLAW - Yokomo Europe 11g Brass Weights for B2-300FLA: http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php/spares/yokomo/b-max2/b2-300flaw-yokomo-europe-11g-brass-weights-to-b2-300fla.html
B2-300FLB - Brass 50g front lower suspension mount (standard): http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php/spares/yokomo/b-max2/b2-300flb-brass-50g-front-lower-suspension-mount-standard.html
B2-300FLS - 45.8g Front Lower Suspension Mount (Steel): http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php/spares/yokomo/b-max2/b2-300fls-45-8g-front-lower-suspension-mount-steel.html


Front upper mount: http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php/spares/yokomo/b-max2/b2-300fua-b-max2mr-rs-front-upper-arm-mount.html

B2-201BA - Aluminum steering bell crank
http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php/spares/yokomo/b-max2/b2-201ba-aluminum-steering-bell-crank-for-b-max2mr-rs.html

This is a none essential nice to have:
B2-118MA - B-MAX2MR Graphite battery holder http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php/spares/yokomo/b-max2/b2-118ma-b-max2mr-graphite-battery-holder.html

I like this:
B2-118BW - Yokomo Europe 50g Under Battery Weight:
http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php/spares/yokomo/b-max2/b2-118bw-yokomo-europe-50g-under-battery-weight.html

The new Yataba Arena springs are the ones to go for for astro/indoor:
http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php/catalogsearch/result/?q=+Yataba


If you are stating with new wheels, you may want to consider going for the hex conversion, as surely any future car will run the same 12mm hex wheels:
B2-HCOV - HEX Wheel Hub Conversion Kit: http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php/spares/yokomo/b-max2/b2-hcov-hex-wheel-hub-conversion-kit.html

There are lots of new lightening bits out now, which may help if that's your thing.

Alloy idler gears... I found they wear and get noisy, so went back to plastic. Check the topshaft outer bearing regularly and they last well. Leave it and you may find you kill an idler gear.

Hope that helps, it's a great car.

[PJC]

The only other things I can think of is running the BMAX4 rear arms and I use the Team C idlers which are working well. Both have threads on oople.

[minty]

Metal internals, buy you know that now. I find the ball diff lasts about one run on RHR astro before it feels like shite or starts slipping and needs tightening. The ball diff runs perfect on low traction tracks, but the astro kills it quickly. I find for astro the gear diff with 5k oil is perfect. I found with 3k you get the unloaded wheel spinning up a bit more, and lower than 3k is just silly, don't do it. I've also tried 7k, but went back to 5k. Not the oil, but the car was off that day, so I just went back to my previous setup.

Breakages. The car is really solid. I've done a few ball ends, on the rear when running long links. I went with a longer turnbuckle which helps stop them breaking. If you have the kit plastic rear hubs, get some spares, I've known them break. I've always had the alloy ones.
I've done one front wishbone, but it had taken some beating to get to that point. I've broken a top upper nose plate after a roll it cracked. I completed the day though with it cracked. I've also broken the front lower nose plate, where the steering cranks screw in. You won't have that problem with the full alloy chassis.

Extras and bling.
B4-415R00 - Aluminum rear hub carrier (Toe-in 0°) for B-MAX2/4: http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php/spares/yokomo/b-max2/b4-415r00-aluminum-rear-hub-carrier-toe-in-0-for-b-max2-4.html

Front alloy bulkhead with brass insert/ or the steel bulkhead or brass if you plan to run the shorty lipo down the centre as Lee Martin does now.
B2-300FLA - B-MAX2MR/RS Front lower suspension mount: http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php/spares/yokomo/b-max2/b2-300fla-b-max2mr-rs-front-lower-suspension-mount.html
B2-300FLAW - Yokomo Europe 11g Brass Weights for B2-300FLA: http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php/spares/yokomo/b-max2/b2-300flaw-yokomo-europe-11g-brass-weights-to-b2-300fla.html
B2-300FLB - Brass 50g front lower suspension mount (standard): http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php/spares/yokomo/b-max2/b2-300flb-brass-50g-front-lower-suspension-mount-standard.html
B2-300FLS - 45.8g Front Lower Suspension Mount (Steel): http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php/spares/yokomo/b-max2/b2-300fls-45-8g-front-lower-suspension-mount-steel.html


Front upper mount: http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php/spares/yokomo/b-max2/b2-300fua-b-max2mr-rs-front-upper-arm-mount.html

B2-201BA - Aluminum steering bell crank
http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php/spares/yokomo/b-max2/b2-201ba-aluminum-steering-bell-crank-for-b-max2mr-rs.html

This is a none essential nice to have:
B2-118MA - B-MAX2MR Graphite battery holder http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php/spares/yokomo/b-max2/b2-118ma-b-max2mr-graphite-battery-holder.html

I like this:
B2-118BW - Yokomo Europe 50g Under Battery Weight:
http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php/spares/yokomo/b-max2/b2-118bw-yokomo-europe-50g-under-battery-weight.html

The new Yataba Arena springs are the ones to go for for astro/indoor:
http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php/catalogsearch/result/?q=+Yataba


If you are stating with new wheels, you may want to consider going for the hex conversion, as surely any future car will run the same 12mm hex wheels:
B2-HCOV - HEX Wheel Hub Conversion Kit: http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php/spares/yokomo/b-max2/b2-hcov-hex-wheel-hub-conversion-kit.html

There are lots of new lightening bits out now, which may help if that's your thing.

Alloy idler gears... I found they wear and get noisy, so went back to plastic. Check the topshaft outer bearing regularly and they last well. Leave it and you may find you kill an idler gear.

Hope that helps, it's a great car.

Cheers, plenty of good info there. :thumbsup:

The only other things I can think of is running the BMAX4 rear arms and I use the Team C idlers which are working well. Both have threads on oople.

Ive got a set of the bmax4 II arms already as i was going to try them on my bmax 4 III, but the car has been great already so i haven't had to use them yet. Thanks for the heads up on the team c idlers

[skyaflake]

Personally I've got no problems with the sound the alu idlers produce :p

But, for the rest, Neal's post is spot on.

[minty]

Kit ordered! (with a couple of extra blingy bits :woot: )

[mes]

Congrats, I am sure you'll enjoy it! I am not sure if the titanium turnbuckles and aluminum shock caps were mentioned; those are nice to have, too. Check out if the 1.6x2 and 1.7x2 shock pistons are included, you'll want to have these.

I've been running the B-Max2 since day one, converted it to MR and V2.5 standard, and I still love it. I hope I won't regret giving the VBC Racing Firebolt DM a try, but after running the Max for about three seasons, it is time for something new. :)

[minty]

almost done :D

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l304/minty31/IMG-20140808-WA0014.jpg

[neallewis]

almost done :D

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l304/minty31/IMG-20140808-WA0014.jpg

Looking good!

[ReneT]

I think too that the the alu idlers turn noisy quite quick.

If you do run aluminium idlers make sure that when you rebuild your gerbox, you put them the same way back in. Keep the one closest to the topshaft at that spot, same with the one closest to the diff. Also keep left and right orientation the same. They wear less like that.

Having said that, I run topshaft-plastic-alu-diff since a while.

[MoMo_Fr]

Hello all,

I will have to change my batteries. What is the best configuration: shorty or saddle ??? I will principaly turn on astroturf with midship motor.

Thanks for your response ..

[PJC]

I swapped from Saddles to a Shorty. I notice the car was better, I then switched the Shorty to run along the chassis instead of across, and it was better again. I did buy a bit of brass plate off ebay and cut it to size to put under the lipo, about 45g I think.

[mrspeedy]

I found the same as above . ... shorty longways has a nice flowing feel to the car .. also tried moving the shorty up to the servo ... needs work but the car didn't seem to loose any traction like this ...

[илюха]

Hi
Standard pistons №1 №2 №3 have hole diameter?

[neallewis]

Hi
Standard pistons №1 №2 №3 have hole diameter?

From memory. 1.1mm, 1.2mm and 1.3mm x 4 hole. i think I've measured these and posted abiut it here on bmax4 car thread. I'll check them again later.

[илюха]

Thanks Neallewis!

[minty]

Finally got out with the bmax2 yesterday for a couple of hours on fairly high grip astro.

The setup i settled on was,

saddle packs (all ive got at the moment)
5k diff oil

front
40wt
1.6 2 hole pistons
associated yellow springs
20mm ride height

Rear
30wt
1.7 2 hole pistons
associated grey springs
20mm ride height

The car felt great, nice and stable and easy to drive. I need to have a mess around with roll centers and shock positions as that was all stock.

Question regarding people who run shorty packs. When you go from saddle packs to shorty have you had to change the dampening and springs much? I would assume you would have to go lighter because there is less weight in the car?

[mrspeedy]

I'm still messing around with my setup for shorty .. got some copper weight under the lipo to bring the weight up to the same as saddles so not a massive change .. rear shocks work well on inner w/b hole, AE white spring, 35 wt oil and 2 x 1.7 piston .. and AE blue front spring 40 oil with 1.6 piston .. shocks leaned in on top ... works well with the lipo moved 1/2" off the rear stop too ...

[Danny Harrison]

I'm still messing around with my setup for shorty .. got some copper weight under the lipo to bring the weight up to the same as saddles so not a massive change .. rear shocks work well on inner w/b hole, AE white spring, 35 wt oil and 2 x 1.7 piston .. and AE blue front spring 40 oil with 1.6 piston .. shocks leaned in on top ... works well with the lipo moved 1/2" off the rear stop too ...
Whats the logic in running shorty but adding weight up to saddle weight?

Is the position of the weight drastically changed like this?

[mes]

I think aligning weight in the longitudinal direction is what does the trick. I also run a shorty and the Yokomo Europe weight plate underneath, and I like it better than saddles. Although I am not a good driver it just feels right, more reactive without the rear end becoming too loose.:)
I've got a full size servo with the ptx on the side, the rx and capacitor on top, and the esc right behind it, so moving the battery more to the front is not an option, but also not necessary at all.

[mrspeedy]

Whats the logic in running shorty but adding weight up to saddle weight?

Is the position of the weight drastically changed like this?

Its keeps the overall weight the same so seems a good place to start from for setup .... Also if you use a lead sheet it will lower the centre of gravity ...

Really it is the weight position that makes so much difference ... you can definitely feel the lack of the big lump of saddles at the rear ... makes the car more flowing to drive ... doesn't seem to loose any rear traction either !!

[Danosborne6661]

Yup, ran the shorty down the centre once now and it was great. Exactly the same set-up but the car drives much better. Doesn't loose rear traction surprisingly... just stops the rear leaning over way too much mid-corner and helps carry the speed.

Huge difference! Definitely won't be changing back :)

[skyaflake]

Ready for 12 hours of racing.

https://scontent-b-ams.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/t31.0-8/10483825_910534112307806_603108346978428929_o.jpg

Let's go Yokomo. Race report will follow after the race next Saturday :thumbsup:

[dikke hond]

12 hours of non-stop awesomeness!

[neallewis]

looks like a v.3 Factory Kit is due soon:
http://www.teamyokomo.com/news/order_sheet/14/141020_b_max2mr3f.pdf

Looks to have some nice hop-ups included.
English translation:

■ New design aluminum integral main chassis (select mid motor, the rear motor is possible)
■ Titanium turnbuckles
■ aluminum steering bell crank
■ titanium-coated shock shafts
■ Φ1.6mm X shock piston
■ Double-pad slipper clutch
■ Aluminum front lower suspension mounts
■ Aluminum Front Upper Arm Mount
■ Aluminum Rear Hub Carrier (0 degrees toe-in)
■ Aluminum Rear Suspension Mount

[skyaflake]

Has been announced yesterday.

Only difference with the V2 Worlds is :

- Rear alu hubs
- Shock pistons
- Plastic shock caps
- New (current) bottom caps
- Hex wheels

Great choice for those who want to buy a new car. Not a must have if you already running a V3 or a up to spec V2.

[whites75]

Has been announced yesterday.

Only difference with the V2 Worlds is :

- Rear alu hubs
- Shock pistons
- Plastic shock caps
- New (current) bottom caps
- Hex wheels

Great choice for those who want to buy a new car. Not a must have if you already running a V3 or a up to spec V2.

what do you mean when you say 'up to spec ver2' please?

I got the yokomo bmax2 mr ver.2 as my 1st buggy which is great but I haven't got any hop ups (I think you call it) on it. Is this what you mean, or any worth getting?

[skyaflake]

You don't need to buy the V3 FK in case you have the V2. It's only worth upgrading in case you have a (older) V1. The V2 is still up to spec and still worth every penny (or Euro :lol:). I personally still run the V2 with some upgrades, it's a great car. Rock solid.

[whites75]

You don't need to buy the V3 FK in case you have the V2. It's only worth upgrading in case you have a (older) V1. The V2 is still up to spec and still worth every penny (or Euro :lol:). I personally still run the V2 with some upgrades, it's a great car. Rock solid.

what upgrades do you have on yours, is it to make it look nicer or are they making the car run better?

mine is just run with all kit outta the box, even the shock oil is what was supplied with the kit

[neallewis]

Anyone know when the front alloy C hubs are due out?

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/yokomo/setupbmax2/Bmax2MR_NaotoMatsukura_Poznan2014102426/4.jpg

[subucultcha]

already out by arrowmax
http://www.arrowmax-rc.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=101_205&products_id=1677
http://www.arrowmax-rc.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=101_205&products_id=1678
:drool::drool:

[skyaflake]

I prefer Yokomo over Arrowmax. No estimated release date for the Yokomo hubs. Just wait when a date will be announced. Probably soon, as they product is already production worth.

[Paultje040]

I like the 0° version of the hubs. However, i would prefer the plastic version of the 0° C-hub.
Haven't cracked a plastic one yet (knock on wood).

[neallewis]

I prefer Yokomo over Arrowmax. No estimated release date for the Yokomo hubs. Just wait when a date will be announced. Probably soon, as they product is already production worth.

Naoto's looked like they were a factory part at the EOS. He said "coming soon".
I'm just impatient and agree about the Arrowmax parts. My Arrowmax BMAX4 steering part has loads more play/slop in it than the plastic part it replaces, plus the anodising is the wrong colour. The machining is decent quality though, but don't think the brass or heavyweight parts always improve the car.

[subucultcha]

I also prefer the yokomo part....

Neal have you notice that the Arrowmax steering plate is about a milimeter narower than the stock one?

[neallewis]

I also prefer the yokomo part....

Neal have you notice that the Arrowmax steering plate is about a milimeter narower than the stock one?

I did compare them, but didnt measure. not surprised it's different though.

[J77MYF]

I need some aluminium C hubs. These plastic ones are always snapping.

[StwBald]

what will 0 deg hubs give over the std +5 std hubs..??

[minty]

I think they give less caster which gives more initial steering and make it react quicker to steering inputs.

i could be wrong though :blush:

[skyaflake]

You are right :) I hope Yokomo will release the hubs in plastic too. Alu can be quite expensive, so less interesting for lots of people to buy.
So far I've only snapped the hubs on a indoor track (with a wood like boarding) last winter. No problems outside, so far. Even my driveshafts are lasting forever. And I run pretty fast motors because I like a overpowered car.
My rear and front arms also live forever, but i've replaced them a couple of months ago, because they had a little slop. But lots of people would still race with those arms. I use them as spare now.

Curious about the front hubs though. Once available, I'll post pictures up on bmax2.eu

[skyaflake]

And here we go:

5 degrees: http://www.arrowmax-rc.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=101_205&products_id=1677

0 degrees: http://www.arrowmax-rc.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=101_205&products_id=1678

I don't like the color and like Yokomo parts better, thus I wait for the Yokomo announcement. But for those who don't care, go Arrowmax.

[StwBald]

skyaflake: did you try any 0 deg versions from ORB Racing..??

[skyaflake]

No I didn't. And probably will wait for something made by Yokomo.

Oh, just got confirmation from Yokomo. Alu hubs by Yokomo will not be released anytime soon (if at all). Naoto didn't find it a improvement over the current parts. As it looks for now, no new B-Max2 parts will be released in the near future.

[mes]

New body option available soon:
http://prolineracing.com/images/products/3442-00.jpg
http://prolineracing.com/images/products/secondary/3442-00-1.jpg
http://prolineracing.com/images/products/secondary/3442-00-2.jpg
http://prolineracing.com/images/products/secondary/3442-00-3.jpg
http://prolineracing.com/bodies/phantom-b-max2

I wonder when the YZ-2 version will be available!

[Ashlandchris]

Hmm. It's not too pretty is it? Think I'll stick with original BMax2 shell :thumbsup:

[mes]

I was not impressed at first when the RB6/TRF201XM version came out, but meanwhile I really like it. Don't ask me why, I can't put my finger on it. :)

[Gunthar Guntharsën]

I need some aluminium C hubs. These plastic ones are always snapping.

I broke one too on an indoor track. I was thinking about maybe getting some longer, threaded king pins which would stop the hub from being spread open in a crash. Maybe that would stop them from breaking. At least the way mine broke looked like it was from being spread open.

[sfry61]

New body option available soon:
http://prolineracing.com/images/products/3442-00.jpg
http://prolineracing.com/images/products/secondary/3442-00-1.jpg
http://prolineracing.com/images/products/secondary/3442-00-2.jpg
http://prolineracing.com/images/products/secondary/3442-00-3.jpg
http://prolineracing.com/bodies/phantom-b-max2

I wonder when the YZ-2 version will be available!


That looks awesome :D:D
I'll be having one of those!

[Danny Harrison]

Love the body. Kit shell gonna be a 1 color jobba now :)

[Jez]

picked up my bmax2 today.build and install was done by pete @pro-racing.running m-troniks ip6 speedo,savox low profile,sanwa radio and hpi Saturn 20t motor.will be used at York in 2wd 540 sealed can championship.paint is by g-Kenny.looks stunning in natural light.

[neallewis]

Looks good, nice colours. Look forward to passing it tomorrow ;-)

[Jez]

Looks good, nice colours. Look forward to passing it tomorrow ;-)
the only time you will pass it is on your way to track past my pit table.be warned,i have a well used handbag!lol.

[fastinfastout]

picked up my bmax2 today.build and install was done by pete @pro-racing.running m-troniks ip6 speedo,savox low profile,sanwa radio and hpi Saturn 20t motor.will be used at York in 2wd 540 sealed can championship.paint is by g-Kenny.looks stunning in natural light.
is that the first convertible bmax2 MR with the plastic chassis.....I didnt know you can still buy them.....

on a side note, can you use the v1 mid plastic chassis on the version 2 and 3 bmax2?

[neallewis]

on a side note, can you use the v1 mid plastic chassis on the version 2 and 3 bmax2?

yes, you just need this if you have a V3: http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php/spares/yokomo/b-max2/b2-002f-front-chassis-front-bulkhead.html

[Paultje040]

yes, you just need this if you have a V3: http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php/spares/yokomo/b-max2/b2-002f-front-chassis-front-bulkhead.html

AND the metal triangle that comes with de V2 alu chassis.

http://www.rc-race-and-drift-japan.com/images/b2-002mra.jpg

[neil_p]

AND the metal triangle that comes with de V2 alu chassis.

http://www.rc-race-and-drift-japan.com/images/b2-002mra.jpg

If you want to use the v1 plastic chassis, you do not need the triangle piece from the v2 chassis, that centre mounting hole is in corporated in the plastic chassis.

If you have v2 or v3 kits, to run the v1 plastic chassis you need:

B2-002MR - MR/RS Main chassis
B2-002F - Front chassis/front bulkhead (lower plate required only if you have the V3 or Worlds chassis)
M3 x 10mm screws and M3 plain nuts, 3 each to mount the front chassis plate, but no reason not to run M3 x 12mm screws with M3 nylock nuts.

Hope that helps.

[Jez]

is that the first convertible bmax2 MR with the plastic chassis.....I didnt know you can still buy them.....

on a side note, can you use the v1 mid plastic chassis on the version 2 and 3 bmax2?I've had the lying around in my loft for a year or so,so unsure if still available,but like neal said buy plastic chassis separately.just returned from its first outing at York and I really am speechless.

[fivepointnine]

Putting my V3 together now. Has anyone else noticed some side to side play in the diff? (I'm installing the optional ball diff) I guess I will have to go out and pick up some shims tomorrow and shim it out.

[neil_p]

Yeah there is some movement with the diffs in the case. I cannot remember what thickness I used to shim it out but the inside diameter is 10mm.

I also shimmed out the rear axel washer (pin type wheels) front axel (AE type for Schumacher wheels) and steering bell cranks (Yokomo aluminium type) as I don't like the movement in these items from standard kit build.

[bretts]

Ijust returned from its first outing at York and I really am speechless.

yeah me too!!:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

[Jez]

you need to figure out where to get those 2 corners back brett.i can still picture your face when you out qualified me.maybe next i'll race my holiday buggy????

[bretts]

just for you Jez....

http://i1273.photobucket.com/albums/y407/brell2008/Image22_zps2742f4ba.jpg

well done mate, i feel like Rosberg

Awesome car BTW!!

[neallewis]

Awesome car BTW!!

Bmax2 p1, 2, me in 5, and p8. I think I'll try my mid car next time instead of my rear.

[fivepointnine]

Ball diff is extremely smooth and it took 1 10mm axle shim per side to take out the play. I was putting together the gear diff and it seems very "notchy" with 5k diff fluid, do these take some break in time? My Schumacher diffs were always very smooth when built.

[skyaflake]

It shouldn't be, but a ball diff just feels smoother. Does the gear diff feel good - does it 'turn' - , except for feeling notchy?

[fivepointnine]

It shouldn't be, but a ball diff just feels smoother. Does the gear diff feel good - does it 'turn' - , except for feeling notchy?

It does not bind up or anything, but I can "feel" the gears meshing if that makes any sense. My shucmaher ones always felt smoother than a ball diff. I have 5k oil in it if that matters

[fivepointnine]

I did my first shakedown run yesterday with my Bmax2 V3. It was an indoor wet clay track, high traction. I ran box stock setup except for 1.6 f/r pistons, 35/30wt oil and a ball diff. The car was incredibly easy to drive and put where I wanted on the track. It was also very strong, I had some wrecks with no damage that would have destroyed the front end of the VBC firebolt I just sold!

[neallewis]

I did my first shakedown run yesterday with my Bmax2 V3. It was an indoor wet clay track, high traction. I ran box stock setup except for 1.6 f/r pistons, 35/30wt oil and a ball diff. The car was incredibly easy to drive and put where I wanted on the track. It was also very strong, I had some wrecks with no damage that would have destroyed the front end of the VBC firebolt I just sold!

Awesome, the car will get better with more runs.

[dpackster1980]

It does not bind up or anything, but I can "feel" the gears meshing if that makes any sense. My shucmaher ones always felt smoother than a ball diff. I have 5k oil in it if that matters

Too much oil will make the gear different feel like that.

[neallewis]

Too much oil will make the gear different feel like that.

When I met Naoto at EOS last October, on inspection of his car the diff felt quite tight, tighter than mine did with 3K oil. I asked him about it and he said it was 3k oil, but completely full of oil, no air.

[fmo]

So with all the shiny new YZ-2 around now, what would you think of a YZ-2 style gearbox that fits our loved B-Max 2 chassis? Could this actually work and give us some of the YZ-2 high grip corner speed for just the cost of a gearbox and a motor plate?

The screenshot shows a very early stage of a version with an 80T spur... The lipo would fit in the maximum front position of the MR chassis. And the motor movement would allow for pinions up to 30T.

I think it is worth a try... Opinions?

Cheers
Frank

[neallewis]

Just buy a YZ-2 if you want the features of that car.
The design of the car is more than just the laid down transmission.
Steering geometry and Ackerman is an example of radical changes from the bmax2