Tamiya TRF503 announced with picture

[SiR_Dave]

I've had abit of misfortune....
Got interference at the end of the straight and a car went into my 503 at full chat!
The consequence is.....
Bent chassis
Bent front bulkheads
Bent front hanger

The wishbone only cracked though ;)

Was just wondering if it's possible to get any spares? I can't find any online and rc champ haven't replied?

The only plus side is the car was fast! Was is the right word to be used in that sentence ;)

Any help would be great?


Any pic's of the Damage?:o:o:(

[spad84]

CHAMP R/C is on Vacation for about 10 days so they will not be answering too many e-mails..
I have yet to have any issue ordering from them;) it takes about 1~2 days to here back from Masa... if not send another e-mail..
They can get Tamiya Parts for the 503..

Good news to ear that Masa is back to international division, however Super rajikon have the same price for spares, 20% off on 7 digit parts and 30% off on all other parts

[SiR_Dave]

Good news to ear that Masa is back to international division, however Super rajikon have the same price for spares, 20% off on 7 digit parts and 30% off on all other parts

Similar prices... but a little bit better on the 7 digit #'s;) How good is Super R/C with getting back to you..??

[SiR_Dave]

car coming on the 23th ,im ordering front and rear ally hubs,
are this the right spares arms???

http://www.rcmart.com/tamiya-51313-db01-rear-suspension-p-25616.html

http://www.rcmart.com/tamiya-51311-db01-front-suspension-p-25614.html

What about the belts ?


Yes those a re the correct arms ;)

[spad84]

Similar prices... but a little bit better on the 7 digit #'s;) How good is Super R/C with getting back to you..??

They reply in the same time of Rc-champ, for the price on 7 digit parts, sometimes i pay a little bit less with Super RC, anyway if Rc-champ is back like as once with Masa, i think you can compare it and Super-Rc as same for their service.

[guinness]

A bit confused...... Can you guy list this companies that you buying 503 spares from and how you go about it ?thanx

[SiR_Dave]

A bit confused...... Can you guy list this companies that you buying 503 spares from and how you go about it ?thanx


SUPER R/C in Japan... and CHAMP R/C ADVISER in Japan;)

[shedloads]

I do have some pictures but it won't let me upload, I seem to have lots of problems uploading pictures :s

[guinness]

How about wheels dish ,which one will fit ?thanx

[pugs]

I do have some pictures but it won't let me upload, I seem to have lots of problems uploading pictures :s

they probs too big if done on a modern camera, shrink the size down to 1024 in photoshop;)

[SiR_Dave]

I do have some pictures but it won't let me upload, I seem to have lots of problems uploading pictures :s

If you want PM me your e-mail and I can host them for you :thumbsup:

[SiR_Dave]

How about wheels dish ,which one will fit ?thanx

Any wheels that will fit the B44.2 will fit the TRF503 ;)

[SiR_Dave]

Mounted up a few bodies today... just waiting for the other ones to come back from the painter:blush:

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa24/DOHC_SiR/635afd42-2a7a-4ca4-9439-2230ccdda172_zpscaac6b2a.jpg (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/DOHC_SiR/media/635afd42-2a7a-4ca4-9439-2230ccdda172_zpscaac6b2a.jpg.html)
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa24/DOHC_SiR/e145abcf-b73f-4238-8eab-0980a17a3308_zps41434c59.jpg (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/DOHC_SiR/media/e145abcf-b73f-4238-8eab-0980a17a3308_zps41434c59.jpg.html)

[SiR_Dave]

I've had abit of misfortune....
Got interference at the end of the straight and a car went into my 503 at full chat!
The consequence is.....
Bent chassis
Bent front bulkheads
Bent front hanger

The wishbone only cracked though ;)

Was just wondering if it's possible to get any spares? I can't find any online and rc champ haven't replied?

The only plus side is the car was fast! Was is the right word to be used in that sentence ;)

Any help would be great?


Here are your pic's:(... what in the hell did crash into:confused::cry::wtf::wtf:
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa24/DOHC_SiR/image_zps8635ac21.jpeg (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/DOHC_SiR/media/image_zps8635ac21.jpeg.html)
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa24/DOHC_SiR/image_zpse812f215.jpeg (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/DOHC_SiR/media/image_zpse812f215.jpeg.html)
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa24/DOHC_SiR/image_zpsdbf54fb9.jpeg (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/DOHC_SiR/media/image_zpsdbf54fb9.jpeg.html)
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa24/DOHC_SiR/image_zps2ec91e24.jpeg (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/DOHC_SiR/media/image_zps2ec91e24.jpeg.html)
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa24/DOHC_SiR/image_zps33a124cc.jpeg (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/DOHC_SiR/media/image_zps33a124cc.jpeg.html)
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa24/DOHC_SiR/image_zps10f7594e.jpeg (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/DOHC_SiR/media/image_zps10f7594e.jpeg.html)
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa24/DOHC_SiR/image_zps0be5f4ce.jpeg (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/DOHC_SiR/media/image_zps0be5f4ce.jpeg.html)

[fletcher]

i was in attendance with Micheal at the meeting the above happened. Was actually in the same race and the crack it made on impact was huge. It was a hb413 that hit it.. What annoyed me was how the guy flipped at him, his car was undamaged and this tamiya 503 was bent like this! What a gorgeous car though, kinda wish it was my 22-4 that hit it, least it wouldn't have done so much damage as it would have shed wishbones!

[SiR_Dave]

i was in attendance with Micheal at the meeting the above happened. Was actually in the same race and the crack it made on impact was huge. It was a hb413 that hit it.. What annoyed me was how the guy flipped at him, his car was undamaged and this tamiya 503 was bent like this! What a gorgeous car though, kinda wish it was my 22-4 that hit it, least it wouldn't have done so much damage as it would have shed wishbones!

That sucks right there:thumbdown:
How can the guy get annoyed at him when he crashed into Mikes car:eh?:

[Toon]

My 503 with Proline Phantom B44.2 bodyshell and LMR 'Avior' wing.

I had to mount the side sections of the undertray as close as possible to the battery holders to get it to fit under the body (which is ~10mm narrower than the standard full undertray). I have also fitted a JConcepts protective film sheet on the chassis to at least try and keep it in good condition. Just the rest of the electrics to fit and it's ready to go. :thumbsup:

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w159/Steve_73/RC/TRF503_01_zpsa6752ea0.jpg (http://s175.photobucket.com/user/Steve_73/media/RC/TRF503_01_zpsa6752ea0.jpg.html)

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w159/Steve_73/RC/TRF503_02_zps5be855e0.jpg (http://s175.photobucket.com/user/Steve_73/media/RC/TRF503_02_zps5be855e0.jpg.html)

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w159/Steve_73/RC/TRF503_03_zps825335b5.jpg (http://s175.photobucket.com/user/Steve_73/media/RC/TRF503_03_zps825335b5.jpg.html)

[SiR_Dave]

:thumbsup:

[xfactor]

Hi guys, do you have a part number for the Tamiya lipo weights please.

Thank you,

[Toon]

Hi guys, do you have a part number for the Tamiya lipo weights please.

Thank you,

In the manual they are listed as 'ballast weight', with part # 19402762

I don't know if that is for a pair or individually though.

[Aussie Top Force]

That sucks right there:thumbdown:
How can the guy get annoyed at him when he crashed into Mikes car:eh?:

I agree! That's car written off! With that much damage I'd be wondering what else is slightly out of square! With all that aluminium bent, you need a jig to press it all back into place again! But you then have the issue of those parts being weakened or containing micro fractures.

[guinness]

Are the lipo weight included with the kit ?

[till]

I agree! That's car written off! With that much damage I'd be wondering what else is slightly out of square! With all that aluminium bent, you need a jig to press it all back into place again! But you then have the issue of those parts being weakened or containing micro fractures.

Those parts will be weakended and those can´t be the only parts !
And even if you can press it all "back" you ´re lucky if the car will run straight again with them in it.

[Toon]

Are the lipo weight included with the kit ?

Yes, they are included in the kit as standard. :D

[guinness]

4 days to go to get my 503 ,so impatient I am.

[patez]

Have any of you found new things for setup? I just tried it on clay and it has very little turn in and quite a lot of rotation when throttling out. I took out the 2x25g weights and it didnt change much. Also went down in front diff oil so its rear 3k front 6k.. i was thinking how to simply have more turn in without adding oversteer for turn out.. Maybe soften the front somehow or change link positions? its just the front feels a bit passive or not enough weight transfer or something like that. You need to brake it sideways or just hit the throttle early to make it turn tight.

Other than that, it was a blast to drive.. Man those gear diffs really make it accelerate..

I also fitted "optimized" diff covers in the rear from my oldie 501.. The rear pulley collects all the gunk (the track was a bit damp still)

[guinness]

Guys we all should keep an eye on the TRF blog were the tamiya team driver are already playing around with the 503 setup .
For carpet setups I think we all have to help each other.
Here is the link http://www.teamtrf.com/index.php/drivers/blogs

[SiR_Dave]

Have any of you found new things for setup? I just tried it on clay and it has very little turn in and quite a lot of rotation when throttling out. I took out the 2x25g weights and it didnt change much. Also went down in front diff oil so its rear 3k front 6k.. i was thinking how to simply have more turn in without adding oversteer for turn out.. Maybe soften the front somehow or change link positions? its just the front feels a bit passive or not enough weight transfer or something like that. You need to brake it sideways or just hit the throttle early to make it turn tight.

Other than that, it was a blast to drive.. Man those gear diffs really make it accelerate..

I also fitted "optimized" diff covers in the rear from my oldie 501.. The rear pulley collects all the gunk (the track was a bit damp still)

I have a few set ups for clay I have been messing around with..here is a basic rundown of the set up
Front spring Blue
Rear spring Red
Diff oil F 7K
Diff oil R 3K
Front shock oil 35
Rear shock oil 27.5
12* front hub
0* rear hub
Rear 1.4mm stabilizer
1mm rear shock limiter
2mm front shock limiter
20mm front ride height
21mm rear ride height
Front camber link on outer hole ( shorter link ) 2mm spacer under ball stud
Rear camber link on inner hole ( kit set up ) 2mm spacer under ball stud
The biggest difference in turn in I found was on the body that was used.. The 511 body is very neutral and "safe" the Proline TRF502x bulldog was very different and had much more turn in but the rear became kind of sketchy .... I have yet to mess around with different wings but that might have a effect on it a little bit;)... Also for tire selection I was using Proline MC IONs up front and Proline MC Protons n the rear with closed cell inserts F&R...

Try this out and see if it works for you.. Or change it around and let us know what worked for you:)

[ridgeracer]

I have a few set ups for clay I have been messing around with..here is a basic rundown of the set up
Front spring Blue
Rear spring Red
Diff oil F 7K
Diff oil R 3K
Front shock oil 35
Rear shock oil 27.5
12* front hub
0* rear hub
Rear 1.4mm stabilizer
1mm rear shock limiter
2mm front shock limiter
20mm front ride height
21mm rear ride height
Front camber link on outer hole ( shorter link ) 2mm spacer under ball stud
Rear camber link on inner hole ( kit set up ) 2mm spacer under ball stud
The biggest difference in turn in I found was on the body that was used.. The 511 body is very neutral and "safe" the Proline TRF502x bulldog was very different and had much more turn in but the rear became kind of sketchy .... I have yet to mess around with different wings but that might have a effect on it a little bit;)... Also for tire selection I was using Proline MC IONs up front and Proline MC Protons n the rear with closed cell inserts F&R...

Try this out and see if it works for you.. Or change it around and let us know what worked for you:)

Have you tried the 10deg front hubs? I think since the 503 has more built in kick up than the 511:)

[SiR_Dave]

Sure... I tried the 10* but I switched outer to the 12* front hub and have done more testing with the 12*...;) I might try the 10* next week when I have more time at the track:D

[SiR_Dave]

Guys we all should keep an eye on the TRF blog were the tamiya team driver are already playing around with the 503 setup .
For carpet setups I think we all have to help each other.
Here is the link http://www.teamtrf.com/index.php/drivers/blogs

Good info there I didn't even see that before.... :thumbsup:

[patez]

Good tip from teamtrf thanks! I also have pretty much Jimmy Wright setup on 201xr as well.

I also noticed there's much less ackermann on the kit setup than what i've had in my 501. And I really liked how 501 cornered.. So i've flipped the steering rack now. (Moving the ball "back" gives you more ackermann right?)

Also the rear was surprisingly soft in big jumps. I had little trouble slammin the rear on take off. Without the ballast and lightest batteries it still slammed the rear. It was kinda strange, because i hadn't that problem with normal bores at all. (on 201xr the big bores worked beautifully on the same track altought with 1.6mm piston) So the 1.6mm piston could be the solution for 4wd too. Oils we're UR 40 front and 35 rear.

Here's a comparison of the steering racks (503 up as in the kit setup). U also see it was a bit wet because the snow just has melted up here. :lol:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/16237957/trf/ackerman503.jpg

[SiR_Dave]

Looks like you already flipped the steering rack on the 501x so that might be why you liked the steering from it:p:D...
Anyways I tried the flipped rack this past weekend and it does make the car a bit more on edge for entry steering..

Now I have not run into the issue with the rear slapping on big jumps:eh?:... but I have switched over to a red rear spring and I like it a lot better:thumbsup:....
I will be putting the TRF503 on scales today to see how the weight is balanced out;) and compare it to the TRF511 and TRF502x as well:woot:



Also patez... clean your car its dUrty:p

[SiR_Dave]

Did a little corner balancing with the TRF503... comes out very good!!:woot::thumbsup:
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa24/DOHC_SiR/DSC_0737_zpsed8acfc2.jpg (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/DOHC_SiR/media/DSC_0737_zpsed8acfc2.jpg.html)
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa24/DOHC_SiR/DSC_0738_zps87b8036e.jpg (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/DOHC_SiR/media/DSC_0738_zps87b8036e.jpg.html)
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa24/DOHC_SiR/DSC_0739_zpsb26b1f5e.jpg (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/DOHC_SiR/media/DSC_0739_zpsb26b1f5e.jpg.html)
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa24/DOHC_SiR/DSC_0740_zps0f818ec6.jpg (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/DOHC_SiR/media/DSC_0740_zps0f818ec6.jpg.html)
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa24/DOHC_SiR/DSC_0742_zps9b071bde.jpg (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/DOHC_SiR/media/DSC_0742_zps9b071bde.jpg.html)

[guinness]

Sure... I tried the 10* but I switched outer to the 12* front hub and have done more testing with the 12*...;) I might try the 10* next week when I have more time at the track:D

Mi right in saying that going with a lighter diff oil in the front should help with the turn in ?I'm 99%sure that it will.

[SiR_Dave]

It's worth a try;).. I have a spare Diff I can put 5000k into and try it out:)

[guinness]

It's worth a try;).. I have a spare Diff I can put 5000k into and try it out:)

I would just go for 3k all around and taking it from there .:D

[SiR_Dave]

I have tried 5k in both and did not like it ... so thats when I went to the 7kF, 3kR...Going to test the 10* hubs tonight and have another 5k diff ready to try out... but the 511 body is still very neutral:yawn: .. Might try the Bulldog one I have tried out the other stuff... but it's getting pretty good now ... just making it drive neutral and safe... I have a pretty good set up thats close for a starting point on Clay.. so.. might have to post it up soon:woot:

[guinness]

My kit is coming tomorrow, I'm looking forward to the build and to test it ,I only race on carpet so I will share my opinions as soon as possible.
I will definitely start with the 3k all around and going up on the front only if I have plenty of turn in in the first place

[SiR_Dave]

You might want to start with a 511 carpet set up or base it somewhat closely to it:blush: .. . Also any info on carpet would be good as well... :thumbsup:.. but the 503 seems to have a lot more flex built into it than the TRF511...:bored:

[pugs]

I used ball diffs on carpet/slippy floor and liked it better than the gear diffs, also on grass and again found it better to drive and that was after trying several different oils in both front and rear. the car had loads of turn in and no "snappyness" you tend to get with the gear diffs....just to throw some more options in the mix....:lol:

[kentech]

From the latest RC World mag of Satoshi Maezumi's TRF503 including setup.

For the rest check http://kentech.blogs.se/

http://data9.blog.de/media/677/7773677_534321cf48_l.jpeg

[fastinfastout]

I used ball diffs on carpet/slippy floor and liked it better than the gear diffs, also on grass and again found it better to drive and that was after trying several different oils in both front and rear. the car had loads of turn in and no "snappyness" you tend to get with the gear diffs....just to throw some more options in the mix....:lol:
I also liked ball diffs over gear diffs too, but on my 511. There was just some inconsistencies with the gear diffs on medium traction dirt tracks, and just was not sure what the car would do from corner to corner.

I would gather the only area where the gear diff 'may' be better would be on high grip astro.

do you know the part number for the ball diffs by any chance?

[SiR_Dave]

Here are the 39T ball diff part#'s;)

13700123 39T Ball diff gear
19804676 Diff joints L&R
51442 trf 417 diff plates

[guinness]

Trying hard to read that setup sheet lol

[SiR_Dave]

I can read Japanese... what are you trying to figure out ..

[guinness]

Everything lol ,can you make a new PDF with all the translations ?

[pugs]

I also liked ball diffs over gear diffs too, but on my 511. There was just some inconsistencies with the gear diffs on medium traction dirt tracks, and just was not sure what the car would do from corner to corner.

I would gather the only area where the gear diff 'may' be better would be on high grip astro.

do you know the part number for the ball diffs by any chance?

Then you will like the 503 with ball diffs;) just imagine a better and more balanced 511 and thats what you get....Sir dave has kindly given you the part numbers:thumbsup:

[SiR_Dave]

Sure... PM my your e-mail address and I can send it your way..:thumbsup:

[SiR_Dave]

OK from what I could read and understand on the RC World Article on Satoshi's 503 setting advice... he was just basically talking about basic roll center adjustments and some of the new features like the upper and lower decks with being able to feel small adjustments made to the TRF503 vice the past TRF511 with other things that will increase cornering speed.. . Stuff most of us should know already:blush: but what I did pull from it that was interesting.. was that he was recommending using a lighter weight oil in the front compared to the rear if you wanted more steering..??:eh?::eh?: so say using 3000K in the front and 5000K in the rear if you want more steering.. and there was a few things for the diffs on Astroturf and Carpet... recommending going to 7000K~10000K in the front and a somewhere in between for the rear diff:yawn: Now he also said that if the rear feels too locked in and your not getting enough cornering speed to try out the 1* deg rear hubs and flip them around to make 2.3* rear toe in..;)

[SiR_Dave]

Here is the Set up sheet cleaned up and translated:woot:

Thanks to Kentech and Petit RC :thumbsup:

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/tamiya/setuptrf503/TRF503_SatoshiMaezumi_Dirt201404/setup.jpg

[kentech]

Thank you! :)

[fastinfastout]

Here are the 39T ball diff part#'s;)

13700123 39T Ball diff gear
19804676 Diff joints L&R
51442 trf 417 diff plates
besides the diff plates, I cannot find anything on those part numbers.

going by the 511 manual,
diff joints 51286
diff plates 51287, or is this too small in diameter for the bigger 39t gear??
39 ball diff gear -cannot determine

[SiR_Dave]

Your not going to find these parts in the TRF511 manual.. they are different from the kit parts... If you might have to order some of these parts from Tamiya.. the Diff rings can be found off the TRF417..;)

[jaq]

Gents

Will this part fit my front??

I have 12mm hex wheels, so the standart part is not good for these.
Only rear wheel will fit.


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TAMIYA-53570-Clamp-Type-Aluminium-Wheel-Hubs-4mm-Thick-/310466666584

Thanks

[SiR_Dave]

Those will work... but you will be very limited on threads on the front axel and you will have to drill out the center of the hex a little bit to make it fir over the axel:yawn:

[jaq]

Hmmmm...

Could I use different parts???So I dont need to do any modifications??

Thanks

[guinness]

Are the stock front hexs that bad ?

[pugs]

besides the diff plates, I cannot find anything on those part numbers.

going by the 511 manual,
diff joints 51286
diff plates 51287, or is this too small in diameter for the bigger 39t gear??
39 ball diff gear -cannot determine

The larger parts for the 39t diffs are out of the trf511 chassis upgrade set;)

[jaq]

Are the stock front hexs that bad ?

Front hex's are 10mm

I bought these and they are 12mm....need to get bigger hex:(

http://www.rcjaz.com/tamiya-53880-tamiya-road-large-diameter-wheels-front-6225-p-7692.html

[SiR_Dave]

The stock 10mm front hex's are not bad... but the optional DB01 thicker ones are a bit better if your going to run a 10mm front hex wheel that's not Tamiya:)

[fastinfastout]

Your not going to find these parts in the TRF511 manual.. they are different from the kit parts... If you might have to order some of these parts from Tamiya.. the Diff rings can be found off the TRF417..;)
hmm.....little confused.

so are you saying, if I found a trf511 ball diff complete, that it will not drop straight in the 503, with or without the 39T gear?

The larger parts for the 39t diffs are out of the trf511 chassis upgrade set;)
oh the infamous upgrade kit.....if you can find it :lol:

I probably wouldnt get it just for the diff parts however.

[SiR_Dave]

Thank you! :)

No thank you:D ... You always have the good info on your site:thumbsup:

[fastinfastout]

so the 503 gear diff parts like the pulley and diff case 51463 shares in common with the TA06.

I am curious if the TA06 Ball Diff Set 54305 will fit the 503.

[SiR_Dave]

hmm.....little confused.

so are you saying, if I found a trf511 ball diff complete, that it will not drop straight in the 503, with or without the 39T gear?


If you were able to find a set of TRF511 upgrade chassis set diffs they would drop in no problem... but the standard TRF511 (37T) will not work.. since the 39T gear has to be matched up with different diff plates ( TRF417 ones )... and those diff plates will not work with the standard TRF511 outdrives... you will need to get all of the parts I listed before by part #:cry:

It sucks looking for them because most of the parts are special order:thumbdown:

[SiR_Dave]

so the 503 gear diff parts like the pulley and diff case 51463 shares in common with the TA06.

I am curious if the TA06 Ball Diff Set 54305 will fit the 503.

Might be worth a try... but the outdrives might be short by about 2mm per side.. when I was looking at some of the replacement gear diff out drives I looked at the TA-06 ones.. while they would work.. they are a little short.. I can posy up a pic if you would like to see the difference between them:yawn:

[guinness]

The stock 10mm front hex's are not bad... but the optional DB01 thicker ones are a bit better if your going to run a 10mm front hex wheel that's not Tamiya:)

What's the difference between the tamiya 10mm wheel hex and other 10mm wheel hex brand ???
I finally got mine today, what ESC and lipos are on the PIC in the manual, it looks 1/8 scale electrics???


https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-PulrdSd8nPs/U1msPhb3aXI/AAAAAAABlds/IfEI1wg-BUk/w1974-h1482-no/IMG_20140425_012803.jpg

[SiR_Dave]

The standard front 10mm hex works great with the Tamiya wheels.. but they tend to be on the thin side for most of the B44 front wheels .. and rub on the webbing ... the DB01 wide tread hubs (54406) work best and work with all 10mm front hex wheels :thumbsup:

Now some of the 12mm hexs I have posted up before work with the zx-5 and Losi 22-4 front wheels and they do not rub at all.. :)

Now as for the picture of the speed control on the TRF503 instructions... that thing is a Brick!!! :D

[fastinfastout]

If you were able to find a set of TRF511 upgrade chassis set diffs they would drop in no problem... but the standard TRF511 (37T) will not work.. since the 39T gear has to be matched up with different diff plates ( TRF417 ones )... and those diff plates will not work with the standard TRF511 outdrives... you will need to get all of the parts I listed before by part #:cry:

It sucks looking for them because most of the parts are special order:thumbdown:
ahh I understand now

Or I suppose I can hope 37t trf511 diffs can fit, without any clearance issues with it being a smaller diff, as long as the pulley lines up with the belt, and the outdrive bearings line up to the bulkheads.

Might be worth a try... but the outdrives might be short by about 2mm per side.. when I was looking at some of the replacement gear diff out drives I looked at the TA-06 ones.. while they would work.. they are a little short.. I can posy up a pic if you would like to see the difference between them:yawn:
edit.....no it's ok. I can't imagine how to 'make' up the 2mm difference per side to make it fit the bulkheads

[fastinfastout]

what's the part number for the 417 light weight outdrives?

do you use 'blades' with them onroad outdrives?

[SiR_Dave]

ahh I understand now

Or I suppose I can hope 37t trf511 diffs can fit, without any clearance issues with it being a smaller diff, as long as the pulley lines up with the belt, and the outdrive bearings line up to the bulkheads.


yes please, in your spare time if it's not too much trouble.

the 37T will not work due to the fact that the belt is longer F&R on the 503:thumbdown:


and I should be able to get a picture up for you sometime later today for the difference in gear diff outdrive lengths:thumbsup:

I also have a nice set of 39T TRF511 ball diffs that have never been built.. for the right price:woot::p:D

[fastinfastout]

and I should be able to get a picture up for you sometime later today for the difference in gear diff outdrive lengths:thumbsup:


no it's ok, I can just imagine it.

[fastinfastout]

the 37T will not work due to the fact that the belt is longer F&R on the 503:thumbdown:


and I should be able to get a picture up for you sometime later today for the difference in gear diff outdrive lengths:thumbsup:

I also have a nice set of 39T TRF511 ball diffs that have never been built.. for the right price:woot::p:D
oh yeh, them belts.......

Well getting the ball diffs to work may be harder than I thought. But even if I do, how hard will be it getting replacement parts down the track if it's already hard enough getting them now!

You know what, I might even like driving this car with gear diffs haha.

I'm just about to finish my build.

Interesting to read that the kit setup pushes. But besides the above mentioned diff oils, be good to see what changes people do to their 503 in order to make it better. I love a car that just turns and rotates on a dime. You can always tame the steering down, but sometimes hard to make a car 'steer' if it doesnt have natural turning ability.

[SiR_Dave]

It's not a problem.. I have to take some pic's of some new things anyways:woot:

[SiR_Dave]

Interesting to read that the kit setup pushes. But besides the above mentioned diff oils, be good to see what changes people do to their 503 in order to make it better. I love a car that just turns and rotates on a dime. You can always tame the steering down, but sometimes hard to make a car 'steer' if it doesnt have natural turning ability.

What type of surface do you normally run on.?:eh?:.. There are 2~3 set ups currently available for Med to High grip currently..

[fastinfastout]

What type of surface do you normally run on.?:eh?:.. There are 2~3 set ups currently available for Med to High grip currently..
Medium traction dirt and bumpy.

I'll start with kit setup and work my way with that.

I'm not too fond of putting other peoples setups on my cars, but rather take a kit setup and do one change at a time.

[SiR_Dave]

Medium traction dirt and bumpy.

I'll start with kit setup and work my way with that.

I'm not too fond of putting other peoples setups on my cars, but rather take a kit setup and do one change at a time.

Sounds similar to my track that I run on;) ... it will be interesting to see what you come up with :woot::thumbsup:

[trf14]

Hello,
as we speak I`m building the 503... great stuff by the way but I have a few questions :
-I`m using the hop up option part metal bushing (top) for the dampers but there is a lot of `play back to front `, it looks like the plastic screw isn`t able to lock the damper properly. Any suggestions how to get eliminate this play ?

-Sir Dave : do you have your list of spare parts...
-Anybody a astroturf set-up?
-for the gear diff oil, is anybody using the Tamiya diff oil, I have bought range 800 -1000-1200-1600, guess I use 1600 for the rest and 800 for the front?
-Does anybody uses the one way diff at the front ?

I post some pics once the car start to get some shape, still some nights work though..

Cheers

[Roel]

Hello,
as we speak I`m building the 503... great stuff by the way but I have a few questions :
-I`m using the hop up option part metal bushing (top) for the dampers but there is a lot of `play back to front `, it looks like the plastic screw isn`t able to lock the damper properly. Any suggestions how to get eliminate this play ?


I don't think using the metal shock bushings with the big bore shocks is a good idea.
The old normal shocks had plastic caps, so you could use the metal bushings.

The big bores come with aluminium caps, which makes it metal on metal.
I think one of them is going to wear out a lot quicker.

[SiR_Dave]

Hello,
as we speak I`m building the 503... great stuff by the way but I have a few questions :
-I`m using the hop up option part metal bushing (top) for the dampers but there is a lot of `play back to front `, it looks like the plastic screw isn`t able to lock the damper properly. Any suggestions how to get eliminate this play ?

-Sir Dave : do you have your list of spare parts...
-Anybody a astroturf set-up?
-for the gear diff oil, is anybody using the Tamiya diff oil, I have bought range 800 -1000-1200-1600, guess I use 1600 for the rest and 800 for the front?
-Does anybody uses the one way diff at the front ?

I post some pics once the car start to get some shape, still some nights work though..

Cheers


-What parts are you looking for IE Spares..??:eh?:
-As for the VG Oil.. I have used it before ... I would try 1200F & 1000R and go up or down from there so see what you will need on Astroturf for the gear diffs..
-I use a one way.. when it's a big flowing track.. but I have found the Front Gear Diff to be better when those OH SH!T moments come up and you need to get on the brakes quickly:D


Now as for the play in the metal bushing that's going to be normal since it's about 1mm longer than the standard plastic bushing.. if you want to tighten it up and your worried about the play.... a little bit of this stuff will be your best friend:lol:

http://previewcf.turbosquid.com/Preview/2012/05/31__14_45_11/IS_ST_TurboSquid_Render_LargeSig.jpgce42e333-aa06-4092-bc46-48f17ffce13fLarge.jpg

[guinness]

need some help.....im putting together the front stock hubs with the steering part and once inserted the top and bottom screws on the hub the steering gets a bit stiff, any tips? thanx

[pugs]

need some help.....im putting together the front stock hubs with the steering part and once inserted the top and bottom screws on the hub the steering gets a bit stiff, any tips? thanx

I would just back the king pin screws out a bit then screw them in as the holes wear in:)

[fastinfastout]

Yes I did notice the king pins were abit tight on the caster blocks. I was thinking of using some fine emery paper, but might just let it wear it in naturally. It's not overly tight anyway if you just back off half a turn or so.

[fastinfastout]

MR OCD, have you put the car on corner scales yet? How is it?

look what I found;
http://i1130.photobucket.com/albums/m538/bigalracing/rps20140427_004056.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/user/bigalracing/media/rps20140427_004056.jpg.html)

something to think about later on!

but I will most likely start off with the saddle packs.

[SiR_Dave]

I would just back the king pin screws out a bit then screw them in as the holes wear in:)

Yes... and also if you have a 3mm reamer or drill bit hand twist it in there a turn or two as well..:thumbsup:

[SiR_Dave]

MR OCD, have you put the car on corner scales yet? How is it?

Have a look a page back... posted up what the 503 scales in at:) Conrner weights and all:thumbsup:

[pugs]

Yes... and also if you have a 3mm reamer or drill bit hand twist it in there a turn or two as well..:thumbsup:

Dont think I would do that option as the blank on the kingpin is only 2.6mm...would get very sloppy with wear;)

[guinness]

thanx for the tips......
what about rear dumpers??? are you guys using any spacers inside the pistons ???

[SiR_Dave]

Dont think I would do that option as the blank on the kingpin is only 2.6mm...would get very sloppy with wear;)

Ahhh I see...what your saying.. :thumbsup: I use to do it on my 501x before... never had any slop issues if I only went in a twist or two:eh?: ( 1mm or so just to open it up a little bit not going all the way through:lol:...) But now I don't use the plastic hub anyways.. much better options for tuning with the Alloy 10* or 12* hub:wub

[SiR_Dave]

Buddy in Japan is doing a little bit of Astroturf testing at Yatabe Arena :)
http://blogs.c.yimg.jp/res/blog-ec-8d/dobahiro0225/folder/467526/91/64985691/img_1?1395933606

[guinness]

Any tips on the belts tension ? is the setting on the manual one to go by?

[pugs]

Any tips on the belts tension ? is the setting on the manual one to go by?

The setting from the manual is fine:)

[guinness]

What are the parts numbers of the 3 parts alluminium ackerman ?what car are from ?
Thanx

[Roel]

It's 3 parts that make up the steering assembly.
They fit on several tamiya 4wd buggies, 501\511\503

Don't know where you can actually buy them tho, they are pretty hard to come by.

53971 Steering Arms
53972 Steering Bridge
53973 Steering Base

Stella has only the bridge in stock but not the other pieces
The steering arms are the rarest to find i think.

[SiR_Dave]

Most of the Alloy steering parts have been discontinued and you will only find a few places world wide that have very little stock of the items:(
Since Tamiya Japan no longer has stock of these items.. you best bet is going to be Tamiya USA for the Steering arms and Base.. the Bridge is sold out..... on eBay has tons of Bridges and Bases F/S.... Just the Arms :cry:..

I have a few of the items.. as spares... just incase :blush:... or if you want to be cheap and don't care.. 3Racing sells the Arms and Bridge as a set.. but it's not as nice as the Tamiya items..and adjustability of the bridge:yawn:

[guinness]

Finished the build😁
As usual a great plesure to build a tamiya.
But.......come on tamiya ,why supply the kit with crap ball Heads connectors especially when on the rear under the shock tower are difficult To Unscrew if you want change the camber link position! Anyway I change them with the hard hex version of it .
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pv2HZ8q5NbUT0qCsUy5cW3nPxlaNlgDjxyo9gheKu2mt=w432-h324-p-no

[SiR_Dave]

Looks good!!:thumbsup:

[jaq]

Gents

What are the numbers for belts replacement??

Thanks

[SiR_Dave]

Front and Rear Belt set part #
16244030

[jaq]

I know this number...I thought you will know 5 digit number
I cant find them anywere....

[SiR_Dave]

Tamiya has yet to do the 5 digit yet for them.. I still have to order them direct via Tamiya:cry:

[guinness]

ok so i got a set of losi wheels.....but it seems that the drive shaft thread is to short and the wheel nut will only screw halfway ?????
any other 12mm brand suggestion?
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-t3bw_ERA9uU/U2QImieSJvI/AAAAAAABlwk/jVOUCG-RWys/w737-h553-no/IMG_20140502_220513.jpg

[abiye]

You'll have to drill ream out the hole on the wheel. It doesn't fit over the axle.

[guinness]

The hole is not the problem ,the length of the hole it is .
Whent down the shop and got a set for ZX5/RB6 will test them once back home.

[guinness]

Is it possible to buy the blue and red dampers springs separately without getting the set ?

[SiR_Dave]

Unfortunately no... you have to buy them as a set :cry::thumbdown:

[guinness]

OK thank!
By the way what the best way to setup the belt tensioners ??

[SiR_Dave]

For the ones with the bearings.. I have about 1mm~.05mm of a gap between the belt and the bearing... without it touch is what I tend to set them at :)

[guinness]

ok this rear seems to fit ok , i assume they are the positive offset one
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-JMd2NxECm5M/U2V2r_jvblI/AAAAAAABlys/7A0mPGZatJE/w747-h553-no/IMG_20140504_000646.jpg
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-la0eRk58mMc/U2V2yieaQBI/AAAAAAABly4/y4UE18nOvj0/w747-h553-no/IMG_20140504_000718.jpg
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/MBPtG4u8Yo73THMDzRvXO3D7i5sbvoyAiUIq5AyxoEd9=w378-h553-no

[SiR_Dave]

Looks like you found a 12mm hex wheel that fits:)

[D-StyleNZL]

It's 3 parts that make up the steering assembly.
They fit on several tamiya 4wd buggies, 501\511\503

Don't know where you can actually buy them tho, they are pretty hard to come by.

53971 Steering Arms
53972 Steering Bridge
53973 Steering Base

Stella has only the bridge in stock but not the other pieces
The steering arms are the rarest to find i think.

I got mine from Vellrip the other day. Still some of those parts left instock.
I found the Ti coated suspension shafts hard to find.
I also ordered a set of XV-01 Titanium Screws as this set has most of the screws you need.

I start my build on Wednesday. (first Race Friday) Going to keep using my Tamiya wheels as the tires are still in good shape.

[patez]

I tear down the rear belt.. There might have been something between pulleys and case.. Do you think belt tensioners could wear belts faster?

Anyhow, thats the first broken part after around 15-20 packs and couple of weekends. The plastic hubs seem to work well with the longer ballstuds. Its a tough car..

Here's the "test track", not easy on the car (or the driver :thumbsup:)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X9bWB_rXGbM

http://juhou.1g.fi/kuvat/Rc+Cars/sotkamon+rc+rata.jpg

[SiR_Dave]

If your rear belt ripped down the middle... it might be small rocks or a pebble that could have got caught in there:(... and from the looks of that You Tube video... it might be a good thing to get a rear diff cover of some sort for the time being until people start making aftermarket diff covers for the correct side of the car ( like the original TRF501x/TRF511 )

[patez]

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/16237957/trf/optimized.jpg

Luckily the importer had some belt kits on the shelf.. And the optimized diff cover needed some work to fit.. The opening is on the wrong side, but nothing that a little piece of tape couldnt fix :woot: Not the most pretty solution but it should work. Im gonna leave out the belt tensioners too.. never needed those on 501 anyway..

[SiR_Dave]

NIce to see that you can still use to Optimised covers with a bit of mod's to them:)

[SiR_Dave]

Add another body to the list that fit the TRF503 ;)
Jconcepts Finisher X-flow for the B44.2
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa24/DOHC_SiR/DSC_0746_zps2bc2cd71.jpg (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/DOHC_SiR/media/DSC_0746_zps2bc2cd71.jpg.html)
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa24/DOHC_SiR/DSC_0748_zps8337d6f1.jpg (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/DOHC_SiR/media/DSC_0748_zps8337d6f1.jpg.html)
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa24/DOHC_SiR/DSC_0750_zps32ff7914.jpg (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/DOHC_SiR/media/DSC_0750_zps32ff7914.jpg.html)

[Fredrik Emilsson]

Almost ready with new/updated diff covers for 503.
New model is longer than short ones for 511, just to make sure no small stones enter the lower hole on the diff cover.
Still held in place by upper bulkhead. So no additional screws or actually less than with original parts.

Still there is room in front of the cover if you want to add center weights.

More info to come, have worked on some other parts for 503 as well.
http://www.cadelit.se/TRF503_closed.jpg
http://www.cadelit.se/TRF503_open.jpg

[SH71]

That looks great!..Pm sent

[SiR_Dave]

DO WANT!!!!:woot::drool::drool::drool::woot:

Fredrik .. what else are you making !!:D:thumbsup::)

[guinness]

What is the size of the belts ??

[guinness]

Ready to race🙌
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/BKw2S-j3STH9t1qvlp4Vy9aVAPoGmEUHJhkDuRJfznJi=w530-h398-p-no
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/gp5-wupFytVVfL00riS4oHnEevchpijU6B7z8eFimA47=w532-h398-p-no
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/UNNUR3ErF7RX9v_n1ZgK127EDXn13Pgj9EUDUOBvuRSg=w532-h398-p-no
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/IVvQZKx2f4x1Vpsa9VcivClURw1lUz3IhpgCNztHBX1Y=w398-h296-p-no

[SiR_Dave]

Looks bad ass!!!:woot::drool::thumbsup:

[guinness]

Any ideas about the belts size??

[SiR_Dave]

What are you trying to find out..? how many teeth are per belt..?
I have looked far and wide for a belt that even comes remotely close and there is nothing.... but if you want to knock your self out here is the tooth count per belt

Front belt 351 teeth
Rear belt 408 teeth


Wish I could get you more of a solid answer to what your looking for but that's.. about it:eh?::(:yawn:

[Roel]

Any ideas about the belts size??

That is the third time you asked the same question....
You could have just taken a belt of your car and measured it...?
Or just use google for answers?

[guinness]

That is the third time you asked the same question....
You could have just taken a belt of your car and measured it...?
Or just use google for answers?

Only twice ,
Chill out my friend ,chill out !😉

[fastinfastout]

Had my 503 out for the 2nd time today.

I can hear crunching metal gears as I'm braking hard from full speed.

I've shimmed as per manual, guess they are not tight enough. Slipper is good though, not too loose and not too tight.

Built as per kit, but with 5K front and rear, its a little taily. Going to go down in the rear to maybe 2K and see how she goes next time!

Overall very happy so far.

[guinness]

Almost ready with new/updated diff covers for 503.
New model is longer than short ones for 511, just to make sure no small stones enter the lower hole on the diff cover.
Still held in place by upper bulkhead. So no additional screws or actually less than with original parts.

Still there is room in front of the cover if you want to add center weights.

More info to come, have worked on some other parts for 503 as well.
http://www.cadelit.se/TRF503_closed.jpg
http://www.cadelit.se/TRF503_open.jpg
Whats the time frame for the covers ?what do you think ?

[SiR_Dave]

Sounds like the belts are loose... I had a similar situation when I 1st was testing mine out as well.. just made the rear belt one click tigher and adjusted the bearing tensioners to about .5mm away from the belts on the center pulley and the issue went away.... i'm sure it done npt help that i'm running a 5.5T motor as well...:bored::)

[Fredrik Emilsson]

I hope to have covers ready within a week.

We have been testing different materials and models to make this version better and stronger than before.:)

[SiR_Dave]

Great news Fredrik:thumbsup:

[D-StyleNZL]

Well first Meeting over. Had my best placing yet (3rd out of 12) This is including a couple of ex state/national champs.
Track was very rough so just using Yellow springs, 35w F and 32.5 R Kit sway bar, 7k F 3K R diffs and Holeshot Tires. Did play around with rear camber during meeting.
Was bottoming out of entry to our triple which cause a few dramas in first race, so had to back off and only do a double. I'll remove 1mm spacer from shocks. Track was to rough to firm up suspenion to my liking, but happy overall. (apart from my 201XM letting the smoke out of the ESC in warmup)

Car was built in a hurry so still some little things to finish off. I had to put extra shims in the diff as I wasnt to happy about the play. I forgot to order the Red O-rings for diff, after one meeting they are weeping already. One of the suppliers forgot to included my alloy steering rack :mad: so only had kit plastic in reverse.

[guinness]

Guys do you use any spacers inside the rear shocks?

[pugs]

Guys do you use any spacers inside the rear shocks?

I only use 1mm, all I did was set the rear so at full droop its the same level as the front and it seems to work well;)

[D-StyleNZL]

Yeah I used the Kit standard, but will be removing a couple. If you have full droop you may run risk of popping shafts out. Pitty these dont come with travel adjusters on the arms like other brands.

Any one have Part number for the Kyosho Diff O-rings people are using? or are the Tamiya Red diff rings ok to upgrade to?

[SiR_Dave]

Tamiya 42259

http://www.tamiyausa.com/items/radio-control-parts-70/tamiya-hop-up-parts-72000/rc-5mm-gear-diff-o-rings-42259

I have about 16 pack through my diffs with the TRF 42259 and zero issues with the diff fluid leaking out;)

[patez]

the red trf one have worked for me aswell. zero leaking. i have also used one extra 0.1mm shim on the outdrive to reduce play (thicker side, outside of the case)

[SiR_Dave]

Waiting for a few new things to be released :D.... Brass weighted front and rear skid plates.... should have pic's soon:drool:

[guinness]

OK this is my first run with the 503,very technical track with lots of sand on the AstroTurf.
Done 5 runs (open class wile racing properly with my 2wd) wile I was playing with the settings ,more testing to come.
http://i588.photobucket.com/albums/ss327/bravesalvo/Mobile%20Uploads/_20140521_212806.jpg

[caneye]

can you use either B44.1 or BMax4-III rims with this car?

(front & rear)

[SiR_Dave]

B44.1/2 are the preferred wheels to use with the TRF503 proline or Jconcepts work the best....:)

[marco NL]

Rudebits TRF502 weight fits perfectly on the TRF503 :thumbsup:

total weight 56 grams


http://i59.tinypic.com/2med02h.jpghttp://i60.tinypic.com/11ka1wn.jpg
http://i59.tinypic.com/2qxw3s0.jpghttp://i60.tinypic.com/dm4gig.jpg

I use B44.2 body and jconcepts wheels

http://i62.tinypic.com/2cekqci.jpghttp://i60.tinypic.com/289jxjd.jpg

[SiR_Dave]

Man that belt is close to that weight in the rear:cry::o:cry:.. I would file it down a bit if your wanting to have any rear belt life:bored:

[marco NL]

Dave

I have a little file it I think it is no problem for the belt
I have the belt in stock:thumbsup:

[patez]

Is the TA06 front ball differential set direct fit? The kit is only 19$ at rcmart....Altought I have started to really like my gear diffs with 5k oil all around.

[SiR_Dave]

If that's the Alloy front Ball diff kit 54305.. I would jump on it for that price!! that's over half off!!:woot::woot::eh?: and it has the blades as well... Why not pick up two if them if your looking to run front and rear ball diffs and save some weight at the same time:thumbsup:

[SiR_Dave]

Dave

I have a little file it I think it is no problem for the belt
I have the belt in stock:thumbsup:

:wub Nice... :)

[patez]

Ordered! ;) Its still quite easy tuning option to try out.. I guess the diff balls are the crappy steel ones.. so also needed some ceramic balls.

[SiR_Dave]

Make sure to get a good thrust washer set from AVID if you can for it ... Carbide or Ceramic :)

[muratti]

Did you guys have to shave a lot away from the bumpers to clear the pulleys and how did you do that? Dremel?

[marco NL]

Did you guys have to shave a lot away from the bumpers to clear the pulleys and how did you do that? Dremel?


:thumbsup:Dremel mate

[SiR_Dave]

There should be one company coming out with a front bumper & rear brass skid plate that replaces the OEM items and already have had material removed in the areas where the pulleys would hit:drool::thumbsup:

[caneye]

can you just purchase an undertray alone for this car?

i believe the 511 body & under tray comes as a set.

i already have a body for the 503, just needing an undertray. :confused:

[SiR_Dave]

can you just purchase an undertray alone for this car?

i believe the 511 body & under tray comes as a set.

i already have a body for the 503, just needing an undertray. :confused:

PM me... I have a few extra ones if your in need:)

[guinness]

There should be one company coming out with a front bumper & rear brass skid plate that replaces the OEM items and already have had material removed in the areas where the pulleys would hit:drool::thumbsup:
confused lol lol ,whats up with the pulleys?lol:cry::confused:

[SiR_Dave]

:) LoL.. No it's just the brass items will already have the ground down areas on the rear skid plate for where the pulleys would rub..;) you know the areas where the manual tells you to remove material from....:bored:

[muratti]

Can anybody give me a driving impression on how it is compared to the let's. say 511? Does it have more steering? Is it more balanced?

[SiR_Dave]

Compared to my 511 with updated chassis kit and gear diffs... feels similar but carries better corner speed and is better in the rough sections of the track .... much more stable car overall and it's pretty damn light too compared to the 511.. almost 40grams lighter:)

[caneye]

Is Frederik's diff covers available for sale?

[SiR_Dave]

Soon I believe:eh?::confused:

[Robbhp]

Well placed my order on Friday so it should be here at some point next week :-), very exciting . So has anyone got any building tips that they would like to share :-), I have heard the diffs may need a few extra shims on the internals , and updated red tamiya orings to replace the stock black ones that leak.

[muratti]

Car went together very easy, i did use the red orings in the diffs and the Yokomo Blue ones in the dampers as the Original Tamiya red damper o rings are a joke.
I didn't use extra shims in the diffs, should i have done this??
Should i rebuild them before the first run?
Who used shims and who not?
Any answers welcome!

[SiR_Dave]

No extra shims required inside the diff's;).. but the red diff O-rings are a must :)

[SiR_Dave]

Car went together very easy, i did use the red orings in the diffs and the Yokomo Blue ones in the dampers as the Original Tamiya red damper o rings are a joke.


Funny you say that ... because it looks like Tamiya put all of the good blue 60* TRF O-Rings in with the TRF201XMW kit... vice the red one's that were with the 503:o... along with some other stuff that I wish they would have not been so cheap with on the 503:rolleyes:

[muratti]

Funny you say that ... because it looks like Tamiya put all of the good blue 60* TRF O-Rings in with the TRF201XMW kit... vice the red one's that were with the 503:o... along with some other stuff that I wish they would have not been so cheap with on the 503:rolleyes:

You mean the weak ball studs (long and short) apart from the damper rings and gear diff rings and the lack of new bumpers that wouldn't require shaving?
Well from my last 18 years of Tamiya-experience i must say: that's Tamiya

[SiR_Dave]

Yep.... you nailed it.. ...:lol: that's what they cheeped out on;)

[muratti]

Hahah we know this company :)

[Robbhp]

Cool so the updated red orings Tamiya / Kyosho. Blue Yokomo orings for the shocks , I presume YS-7HG. Also what ball studs are you replacing them with ?

[SiR_Dave]

Tamiya Hard Ball studs;)

53969 ( 5x8mm )
53963 ( 5x5mm )

[Robbhp]

Thank you Dave :-) you don't happen to use Hobby Central in Poway do you ( think that's how it's spelt anyway)

[SiR_Dave]

Hobby central... only been there twice..:) I get most of my stuff from Amp Draw Hobbies in San Diego.. or Purchase it when I am back in Japan;)

[Toon]

Another Proline Phantom bodyshell for my 503, this time done by someone with much better painting skills and an airbrush (than me and a couple of spray cans)... :D

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w159/Steve_73/RC/TRF503_04_zpsd5d6f4fd.jpg (http://s175.photobucket.com/user/Steve_73/media/RC/TRF503_04_zpsd5d6f4fd.jpg.html)

[SiR_Dave]

Looks very nice !!:)

[Robbhp]

Hobby central... only been there twice..:-) Cool only ask as I worked at Jules Dana Point shop for about two years when I was in high school.

[muratti]

Hobby central... only been there twice..:) I get most of my stuff from Amp Draw Hobbies in San Diego.. or Purchase it when I am back in Japan;)

Why not Tamiya USA? Do they have high shipping costs?
I recently ordered from Ampdraw because they were the only ones that had the steering Base in stock and found they have perfect Service but as you live in the US...

[SiR_Dave]

Why not Tamiya USA? Do they have high shipping costs?
I recently ordered from Ampdraw because they were the only ones that had the steering Base in stock and found they have perfect Service but as you live in the US...

the #1 reason I refuse to purchase from Tamiya USA is ............ . . . . . Totally over priced!!:thumbdown: Why in the hell do they overcharge for everything... Tamiya Japan for a front 503 shock tower is about 14$ shipped to my house in Japan... not to get the same part from Tamiya USA it costs me about 26$ and I have to pay 9$ shipping and tax as well so I am looking at a 38$ part by the time I get it..:o That's why most of us guys in the US get our parts oversea's:wub

And by you getting your stuff at AMPDRAW.... there customer service is outstanding...!! the owner is a really good guy;)

[SiR_Dave]

Cool only ask as I worked at Jules Dana Point shop for about two years when I was in high school.

Nice:)

[muratti]

Wow i didn't know about their high shipping costs!
I can understand why you buy in Japan. You have a House there?

[SiR_Dave]

Yes... I have a house in Japan and one in San Diego were I live now... we rent the one out in Japan:)

[caneye]

Have you ordered parts from the popular Tokyo hobby shops (like rc-champ, futaba)?
Their prices are very reasonable and shipping via EMS is very quick to any where around the world. They can pack and ship your order out within the same day.
- In the past, I've broken parts during a Sunday race meet.
- Order parts on Sunday night
- Parts shipped out on Monday
- arrive before the weekend
- ready for racing the following weekend

Note of caution - with TRF parts, what I've found is that they are ordered on-demand. the shops don't readily carry them (unlike kyosho & yok parts).

[SiR_Dave]

I use to shop at those places when I lived in Japan and they are all good but Champ seems to be hit or miss as of late... Futaba or Futaba Sangyo are both good shops but online order are the suck... Super Rajicon has been spot on as of late and they beat Champs prices on Tamiya by about 5% and there shipping is about 5% less too which is nice;)

[Robbhp]

Just Tracked my kit and its sat in Germany at the moment :thumbsup: not long now , really can`t wait :blush: need the Tamiya blue in my life ASAP :p

[muratti]

Aaah i just can´t bring myself torun this Beauty on my home dirt track. Jon Miller again did an amazing Job with this Body, and to think of all the Aluminium parts getting dirty makes me cry. BUT i want to know how it performs since it´s what it was made for!

[Aussie Top Force]

Get it dirty! They clean up good. Gives you chance rebuild it! You might want to get another shell for running though! Will you be getting Fredericks rear diff covers? It looks quite exposed?

I love to get one of these 503s but there are three things holding me back. 1 budget 2. open belts 3. 502X is working well for this part time racer.

[muratti]

You might be right, i can´t seem to wait any longer...
Well the diffs are exposed as with all the other TRF501X and TRF511, but as they are gear diffs the only thing that can happen is that a Stone gets between pulley and belt and this not likely to happen as on my home dirt track there are absolutely no Stones, anyway i will be getting the diff cover as soon as they are available.
I think Fredrik hasn´t got them ready yet?!?

I have another shell for Display :thumbsup:

[Fredrik Emilsson]

Hi guys,

Diff covers was ordered ~1 month ago.

But I´ve had bad luck with new supplier. When I ordered, in mid april, they were just about to move their office. My order was kind of lost and I´ve been there quite a few times to get them to hurry up. Even tried to find other companies to help me.

I will get first batch of covers on wednesday and after that it will take maximum 3 days for the to deliver each new batch.

Diff covers still 3D-printed, but with new stronger material. Still made in black.

Will get back to you with price, but it will cost almost the same as the old long diff cover.

Also been testing a floating lipo tray. So the lipos are attached to the center of the chassi and are floating above the chassi.
Also possible to add weight on inside and/or outside.
Have to try new ideas, right?

I have also made pre-cut chassi protection sheets for both TRF503 and TRF201 XMW. 0.3 mm thick.

The chassi protection sheets for the 201 XMW has lines to help you align them.

The sheets for the 503 is pretty easy to align without the lines.

Will get some pics up for you.

[SiR_Dave]

Great News Fredrik!!:thumbsup:
put me down for one of everything:woot::p:)

[taomo]

Yes, great news!!!
I want one of everything too. Please, say us the price and when we can buy it as soon as you can :thumbsup:
Will be a Fredrik versions of shock towers (for the 503 and 201xmw)??

Best regards!!

[SiR_Dave]

Looks like we will have a rear weighted brass skid plate soon that is designed to work properly with the 39T pulley :woot:
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa24/DOHC_SiR/76ca8cf8-1df7-4767-a2ca-955dd37c7a8a_zps46d2589e.jpg (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/DOHC_SiR/media/76ca8cf8-1df7-4767-a2ca-955dd37c7a8a_zps46d2589e.jpg.html)

[muratti]

Fredrik, please delete some private messages, your inbox is full.:(

[Fredrik Emilsson]

Yes sir, did that yesterday. :)

[Robbhp]

Well the kits built and ready to go, so can we clear up the wheel situation. What fits without any modification ?

I think TAMIYA 51321 & 51320 are the stock DB 01 Wheels so I can't see how these will not fit. I have also read Team C wheels may fit but what is everyone running at the moment?

[Fredrik Emilsson]

Hi guys,

Will be posting updates and new products on facebook page:
https://www.facebook.com/tstarracingproducts

Chassis protectors for 503 and 201 XMW are now in stock.

[caneye]

How do we place orders for them, Fredrik?

[taomo]

Hi guys,

Will be posting updates and new products on facebook page:
https://www.facebook.com/tstarracingproducts

Chassis protectors for 503 and 201 XMW are now in stock.


Thanks Fredrik!
Is the TRF503 Diff Cover in stock too?

Best regards

[muratti]

Not yet i think :cry:

[Robbhp]

Also is it cut around the screw holes or do you need to remove it when you want to take and chassis screws out ?

[TEO]

Hello Fredrik, I wanted to find out whether you could put some pictures of your trf 511x when you were mounted wheels rulux video on youtube I would be very grateful hello,

Matteo.

[SiR_Dave]

Finally mounted up the Pro-line Phantom Body... going to try it out tomorrow ..:)
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa24/DOHC_SiR/DSC_0839_zps617caa14.jpg (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/DOHC_SiR/media/DSC_0839_zps617caa14.jpg.html)
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa24/DOHC_SiR/DSC_0838_zpsa72bb908.jpg (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/DOHC_SiR/media/DSC_0838_zpsa72bb908.jpg.html)
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa24/DOHC_SiR/DSC_0841_zps0a620043.jpg (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/DOHC_SiR/media/DSC_0841_zps0a620043.jpg.html)

[ralphee]

Wow, i so want this car, looks fantastic!

Lee

[SiR_Dave]

Just got Fredrik's Chassis protector for the 503.. and the fitment is second to none!!! :thumbsup:... Now to test it out tomorrow:woot::)
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa24/DOHC_SiR/DSC_0843_zps898c8db1.jpg (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/DOHC_SiR/media/DSC_0843_zps898c8db1.jpg.html)
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa24/DOHC_SiR/DSC_0845_zps2fbddc76.jpg (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/DOHC_SiR/media/DSC_0845_zps2fbddc76.jpg.html)
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa24/DOHC_SiR/DSC_0842_zpscb348eba.jpg (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/DOHC_SiR/media/DSC_0842_zpscb348eba.jpg.html)

[Aussie Top Force]

Very nice indeed! I'd love to have both those cars.

Anyhoo to be content with what I have, which is pretty dam good I've entered an Enduro race on 20 July in a Team of 4 drivers at Castlehill Offroad Club, Sydney AUS. I'll be running my 201XR as each Team requires at least 1 2wd Car. My Daughter is part of the Team and will be running her DB-02 (with a few mods). The other members of our team will be running Schumacher K1s and possibly a TRF511. A K1 will definitely be run, but they are tossing up between another K1 and their 511.

I'm hoping they choose the 511 to make a nearly all Tamiya Team. The race is 5 hours, 4 cars per team, minimum time limits to be applied to all drivers, motors open, batteries limited to 6000mah.

I'm running the 201 in XR (rear motor) as all attempts with the XM at Castlehill, while encouraging, ultimately came to the conclusion that its a rear motor track, especially if track goes away and clay breaks up and gets a little dusty. When sugared the track can defiantly support mid motor, but if it goes away, which is a possibility during an enduro, as there will be no time for stoping and track maintenance!

Thanks for the look see Sir Dave - maybe one day I'll sneak a 201XMW and 503 past the wife!

[D-StyleNZL]

http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r206/ILVMUF/imagejpg1_zps66ec8b95.jpg (http://s145.photobucket.com/user/ILVMUF/media/imagejpg1_zps66ec8b95.jpg.html)

http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r206/ILVMUF/imagejpg2_zps8796e80d.jpg (http://s145.photobucket.com/user/ILVMUF/media/imagejpg2_zps8796e80d.jpg.html)

Back marker took out myself and one other at end of main straight, then got rear ended at full speed by other. He broke front suspension tower and looks look mine is write off.

[Aussie Top Force]

Ouch! Another member had the front of their 503 bent by a big hit. Is it just the chassis or the bulkhead parts as well? Wonder if a carbon bottom chassis plate would be beneficial?

[D-StyleNZL]

One bulkhead looks tweaked, and bent suspension shaft.
Was going to buy a trf201xmw kit this month but looks like i have to get a replacement 503 instead *sigh*

[Fredrik Emilsson]

Also is it cut around the screw holes or do you need to remove it when you want to take and chassis screws out ?

Hi!
No, there are no cutouts for the screws. When I tested them with holes they were ripped easier around the holes. Also, the screws were damaged. So i decided that was better if the screws also got some protection. :-)

Website will soon be launched. Meanwhile, you can order via PM.

[Fredrik Emilsson]

Just got Fredrik's Chassis protector for the 503.. and the fitment is second to none!!! :thumbsup:... Now to test it out tomorrow:woot::)

Thanks for posting! :-)

[SiR_Dave]

http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r206/ILVMUF/imagejpg1_zps66ec8b95.jpg (http://s145.photobucket.com/user/ILVMUF/media/imagejpg1_zps66ec8b95.jpg.html)

http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r206/ILVMUF/imagejpg2_zps8796e80d.jpg (http://s145.photobucket.com/user/ILVMUF/media/imagejpg2_zps8796e80d.jpg.html)

Back marker took out myself and one other at end of main straight, then got rear ended at full speed by other. He broke front suspension tower and looks look mine is write off.

Damn your the 4th person that I know of who has broken the rear upper carbon deck!!:eh?:.... The front tower front and rear upper decks seem to be a really weak point on the 503..... Somebody should try to make some stronger versions... Hint' Hint':wub

Ouch! Another member had the front of their 503 bent by a big hit. Is it just the chassis or the bulkhead parts as well? Wonder if a carbon bottom chassis plate would be beneficial?
A carbon chassis would be awesome... If someone was willing to make them... I know I would buy it....:woot::thumbsup:

[SiR_Dave]

Thanks for posting! :-)

You are welcome!!:thumbsup: Thanks for making great items that are useful :)

Now if you would just work on a few Carbon fiber parts for the 503 that would be awesome!!:thumbsup:

[Aussie Top Force]

Why not make a Carbon lower deck as a direct replacement for aluminium one and then make wider upper decks, carbon as well, similar to 511. The "fatter" upper decks made a big difference on the 502's performance and mine has taken some big hits from my own doing trying to clear a quad!

[Fredrik Emilsson]

The force from the impact was transferred to the top deck and when it snapped, the chassi had no support and it resulted in a bent chassis.:(

I´ve done some work tonight and redesigned the top deck. Made it a bit wider and it wil also be thicker of course. :)

[SiR_Dave]

The force from the impact was transferred to the top deck and when it snapped, the chassi had no support and it resulted in a bent chassis.:(

I´ve done some work tonight and redesigned the top deck. Made it a bit wider and it wil also be thicker of course. :)

Fredrik.. Please do a thicker front upper deck as well:wub.. same design as the Tamiya:thumbsup:... and can't wait to see the what you come up with for the rear design... looks like you could go about 10mm wider and about .05~1mm thicker front and rear for the upper decks:confused::)

[Origineelreclamebord]

CF's strength is high, but that only counts for the tensile direction of the fibres. In the pictures it seems the CF was not pulled on, but compressed instead (as the chassis is bent up). In the end the plate just flexed downward until it snapped.

A CF chassis should not be necessary: It may have been a bad batch of CF, but to be safe I'd make a mod. A wider top deck may help, but affects torsional rigidity of the chassis. Instead, I would try a thicker top deck, which should have a lesser effect on torsional rigidity as the plate is so narrow - and if the impacts cause the top deck to flex downward like this, a thicker top deck has more effect on strength than a wider one.

So as a first solution (if there is enough clearance) I think you could test running double top plates, much like some guys run double shock towers :)

[Chris]

A carbon chassis would be awesome... If someone was willing to make them... I know I would buy it....:woot::thumbsup:

https://www.facebook.com/#!/SepesRacingProducts?ref_type=bookmark

[D-StyleNZL]

Jimmy Wright is broken a few rear upper decks from just his normal racing.

[SiR_Dave]

https://www.facebook.com/#!/SepesRacingProducts?ref_type=bookmark

http://cdn.memegenerator.net/instances/500x/43215499.jpg

[muratti]

Hey guys, i have a NIB 503 in the for sale section, just in case somebody needs spares quickly!

[kentech]

I have not followed this much lately so I don't know if this has been mentioned, but Tamiya are releasing TRF Double Joint driveshafts for the 503 in August.

42283 Buggy Double Cardan Joint Shaft (Front/2pcs.)
42284 Buggy Double Cardan Joint Shaft (Rear/2pcs.)

http://kentech.blogs.se/


http://data9.blog.de/media/752/7884752_14e6913a31_m.jpeg

[marco NL]

Sepes Racing Products (https://www.facebook.com/SepesRacingProducts?hc_location=timeline)


Coming soon: TRF503 2.5 mm carbon upper decks (F+R)

https://www.facebook.com/SepesRacingProducts?ref_type=bookmark

[SiR_Dave]

Sepes Racing Products (https://www.facebook.com/SepesRacingProducts?hc_location=timeline)


Coming soon: TRF503 2.5 mm carbon upper decks (F+R)

https://www.facebook.com/SepesRacingProducts?ref_type=bookmark


Very nice!!:woot::thumbsup:..

I just wish that guy would return e-mails :cry::bored:

[SiR_Dave]

I have not followed this much lately so I don't know if this has been mentioned, but Tamiya are releasing TRF Double Joint driveshafts for the 503 in August.

42283 Buggy Double Cardan Joint Shaft (Front/2pcs.)
42284 Buggy Double Cardan Joint Shaft (Rear/2pcs.)

http://kentech.blogs.se/


http://data9.blog.de/media/752/7884752_14e6913a31_m.jpeg


Wonder how much this well set back my pocket book:cry::bored:

[kentech]

Wonder how much this well set back my pocket book:cry::bored:

:)

List price in Japan will be 5000yen for the fronts and 4800 for the rears.

[Robbhp]

Can someone explain the advantage of a double jointed UJ :blush:

[D-StyleNZL]

Funny enough I was thinking if you could use the TRF418 double joints on the 503 shafts lol.

but I remember from my TA05VDF:

Smoother transfer of drive to axles.
Wider angle of operation.
Less noise.

But for Offroad, more parts to keep maintained/clean. (Thou I have boots on all my CV joints)

[Aussie Top Force]

I fail to see the point of the double joint? Second joint closest to the wheel would be locked straight between the bearings in the hub carriers, so why have the second joint at all?

To me, this would create more opportunity for flex and place more stress on the outside bearing?

Further will new hubs be required?

I like the idea of the CV joint being located closer to the inside bearing of the hub, but, I still fail to see the need for the second joint.

Would anyone like to explain or post a cut away of how it functions in the hub?

[patez]

the real benefit might be cheaper and more available axles..:lol: Ta06 ball diffs work really well with the 503. Better quality than the older 501/db01. Its good that we have parts from touring cars. (altought many of them need some reinforcing, like the gear diff needed)

Does ayone know if there are same dimension ta06 steel ball diff outdrives? The alloy is really nice but seem to wear fast in the rear, even with blades.

[Toon]

Stellamodels in Hong Kong have now got a few 503 parts listed (upper decks, damper stays, chassis, front bulkhead/suspension alloy parts).

http://www.stellamodels.com.hk/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=Trf503&search_in_description=1&x=-661&y=-65

Still no drive belts though! :thumbdown:

[caneye]

I received an email from a Japanese hobby shop that there is no stock of the belts at the moment. However, there will be a production run coming up in Aug. Hopefully we'll have better luck after that?

I believe this is how the TRF stock is produced - in batches?

[D-StyleNZL]

I check a local hardware suppler for some belts. they had correct lenght and width, it was the tooth profile which needed checking. But im not home for another 3 weeks so will have to wait.

[marco NL]

TRF503 belts in stok

http://www.modellbau-seidel.de/index.php?firma=Tamiya&best=6244030

[taomo]

Fredrik 503 diff protector and 503 & 201XMW chassi protector arrived yesterday, SUPER FAST!!!
503 chassi protector and 503 diff protector fits perfectly!! I love it!!
My 201XMW kit arrived this monday and it is in the box, not assembled yet (I need time!).

Hope Fredrik make a version of the 503 shock towers!! :thumbsup::thumbsup:


Best regards

[guinness]

what combo of spur and pads are u using guys?it seams that 91t spurs are only the tamy ones.

[guinness]

diff/belt cover arrived a couples of days ago ,fit nicely.
regarding the rear top plate i haven't had any problem with it at moment,but i know that the TRF TEAM did breake it too.

after three club meetings,crashed few times at the end of the straight because i couldn't apply breaks due to slipping belts and the car seems solid.
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m91/meguinness/test/IMG_20140724_175126_zpszttjf1ly.jpg (http://s102.photobucket.com/user/meguinness/media/test/IMG_20140724_175126_zpszttjf1ly.jpg.html)
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m91/meguinness/test/IMG_20140725_010410_zpssmeqhfz9.jpg (http://s102.photobucket.com/user/meguinness/media/test/IMG_20140725_010410_zpssmeqhfz9.jpg.html)http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m91/meguinness/test/IMG_20140725_010400_zpswcspszhi.jpg (http://s102.photobucket.com/user/meguinness/media/test/IMG_20140725_010400_zpswcspszhi.jpg.html)http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m91/meguinness/test/IMG_20140725_014624_zpsov8p1orr.jpg (http://s102.photobucket.com/user/meguinness/media/test/IMG_20140725_014624_zpsov8p1orr.jpg.html)

[SiR_Dave]

Fredriks covers look great:thumbsup:

Now if he could just hurry up with the carbon fiber goodies he is doing:D

[guinness]

i would like a spur gear cover :thumbsup:

[D-StyleNZL]

Quick Question:
What parts have people use to convert the front Hexs to 12mm? or Do you all just order 10mm Wheels to suit?

[caneye]

I was told that the Team C's 12mm hex is a direct fit.

finally had a chance to run my car, over 2 months after taking delivery of it. :bored:
ran it in an indoor carpet track. (i was going to get diff covers to run outside but since the indoor track opened up, i just couldn't pass up the opportunity).
Still box stock set-up.
- ran went, jumped well. no breakages. :)

stoked.

car struggled with traction-rolling, even after i installed the rear sway bar. (was using Proline Pinpoint F & R)

i'm thinking of going to stiffer springs too.
any other suggestions?

also looking to get some o-rings for the diffs. the rear diff appears to be leaking a tad.

[Chris]

2.5mm top decks can be pre ordered now.

https://www.facebook.com/SepesRacingProducts?ref_type=bookmark

[SiR_Dave]

I hope that either Fredrik or somebody gets the carbon fiber upper and lower decks done soon:cry:

I need to try e-mailing Sepes again for the upper decks...:bored:

[Balders]

Spine Weight for 503. 40g sits between lipos using existing screw holes in the chassis.

Available from: http://thumbsdesigns.com/product/tamiya-trf-503-spine-weight/
International shipping available.

Top Decks and shock towers will be available soon... :thumbsup:

[guinness]

I was told that the Team C's 12mm hex is a direct fit.

finally had a chance to run my car, over 2 months after taking delivery of it. :bored:
ran it in an indoor carpet track. (i was going to get diff covers to run outside but since the indoor track opened up, i just couldn't pass up the opportunity).
Still box stock set-up.
- ran went, jumped well. no breakages. :)

stoked.

car struggled with traction-rolling, even after i installed the rear sway bar. (was using Proline Pinpoint F & R)

i'm thinking of going to stiffer springs too.
any other suggestions?

also looking to get some o-rings for the diffs. the rear diff appears to be leaking a tad.
Traction rolling ???in what situation?upload your setup sheet.

[HannesW4]

Hello,

Question. I´m from Austria and look for a diff and belt cover for the 503.
And the incrased upper decks. Front and rear.

I have send fredrik an email and i also send him a parts order question at Facebook. But no anser. Where can i buy this things now. I hope you can help me.

best regards from Austria

Hannes

[SiR_Dave]

Spine Weight for 503. 40g sits between lipos using existing screw holes in the chassis.

Available from: http://thumbsdesigns.com/product/tamiya-trf-503-spine-weight/
International shipping available.

Top Decks and shock towers will be available soon... :thumbsup:

Nice idea on the weight ... I wonder if it replaces the inner battery holders since it's a little wide:woot:

[guinness]

Hello,

Question. I´m from Austria and look for a diff and belt cover for the 503.
And the incrased upper decks. Front and rear.

I have send fredrik an email and i also send him a parts order question at Facebook. But no anser. Where can i buy this things now. I hope you can help me.

best regards from Austria

Hannes

have you tried sending a pm in this forum?he was on 3hours ago.

[Balders]

Nice idea on the weight ... I wonder if it replaces the inner battery holders since it's a little wide:woot:

yeah you just unscrew the inner lipo stays. Will see if can get a picture up of it in the car. Also have the drawings of the top decks and battery braces on the site now with shock towers going up shortly with a pre order option. Prices will be as competitive as we can make um!

http://thumbsdesigns.com/product-category/parts/tamiya-503/

[Pedros20]

Thought I'd put a couple of pictures of my 503 on here, well chuffed with the build, & awesome paint by Tel at Telsshells!

http://i467.photobucket.com/albums/rr33/pedros20/61AF8365-C1AA-40FF-BD26-EDA282AB7EC5_zpsxfds6ecw.jpg (http://s467.photobucket.com/user/pedros20/media/61AF8365-C1AA-40FF-BD26-EDA282AB7EC5_zpsxfds6ecw.jpg.html)

http://i467.photobucket.com/albums/rr33/pedros20/5B310BDF-5855-4615-B6AD-902D15A41137_zpsisznbwal.jpg (http://s467.photobucket.com/user/pedros20/media/5B310BDF-5855-4615-B6AD-902D15A41137_zpsisznbwal.jpg.html)

http://i467.photobucket.com/albums/rr33/pedros20/DF954323-D10F-4371-85AB-F337BA8FD815_zpsoj5styvu.jpg (http://s467.photobucket.com/user/pedros20/media/DF954323-D10F-4371-85AB-F337BA8FD815_zpsoj5styvu.jpg.html)

[SiR_Dave]

Paint job looks bad ass!!!:woot:

[SiR_Dave]

yeah you just unscrew the inner lipo stays. Will see if can get a picture up of it in the car. Also have the drawings of the top decks and battery braces on the site now with shock towers going up shortly with a pre order option. Prices will be as competitive as we can make um!

http://thumbsdesigns.com/product-category/parts/tamiya-503/

Nice... How thick are the towers going to be???... Hope the front on is at least 4mm maybe a bit thicker:wub
Also what is the thickness on the top decks as well ..?? 2.5mm or 3mm :drool:

[Balders]

Nice... How thick are the towers going to be???... Hope the front on is at least 4mm maybe a bit thicker:wub
Also what is the thickness on the top decks as well ..?? 2.5mm or 3mm :drool:

towers are 3.5mm and top deck 2.5mm

pics of the weight in the 503 are now on the website. :)

[SiR_Dave]

Thanks:)