Tamiya Durga DB01 EP Buggy (A cheaper 501X?)

[outspaced]

AJ,

That's pretty much what I was thinking. I ordered the BZ for £20 delivered and will use it until I feel the need for more speed which may well be BL. As I said I'm just making tentative steps into the hobby so don't want to go all-out too soon.

[sosidge]

The car is easier to drive on slippery tracks - when it gets high grip the slightly flexible chassis probably makes it a little less consistent and predictable than my 501X.

It's funny you should say this Jimmy, I actually find the opposite is true - I find the car is a lot faster (comparitive to other racers of a similar standard to me) when the grip is up than when it is slippy. I don't have a 501X of my own to compare with but I have tried other peoples 501s on a slippy floor and they seem a lot more planted than my Durga! My assumption was that the rearward weight bias of the 501 generates more traction.

I'm pretty sure you must be pretty happy with your setup (judging by the excellent results you are getting) but I found that the one thing to make the biggest difference in the consistency of the Durga was to fit the TRF shocks on the outer hole of the rear wishbones with the kit spring. It stops the rear end rolling about excessively.

However, it could be my driving skills that are the problem... I always seem to run better when there is ample grip, not so good when things are slippy.

[jimmy]

I might try that mate, I've not played around with the shock position on the rear arms much but I will try it out, if it helps out on high traction then that might be the cure - it was the body roll on high traction I didn't like, but as for how the car goes I'm super happy with it. I'm gonna take both my 501X cars to Italy but I thought the Durga might be better on the bumpy low traction surface, I'll have a day of testing to see which car is better tho and I'm looking forward to seeing.

[mole2k]

I've never driven a durga but my 501 is absolutely planted on the slippery floor compared to other cars i've driven.

[A.J. Gee]

Mine is still proving a pain in the arse, if some of you kind folks could take a look at my last post in this thread:

http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10698

I bought the thing so I could get in to actually racing it, and I've no chance as it stands, and I can't see what the problem is :-/

Cheers!

Hey man i am sorry to hear that your problem with the Durga is still happening. Just as jimmy has stated, it is hard to diagnose the problem without having the car in flesh. Quite obviously the problem has something to do with your electronics. Did you buy your gear new or used? The best suggestion for the problem was that your motor timing might be set too high. Did you look into this possible problem?
From my understanding you are quite new to this hobby. I feel your pain and know just how frustrating things can be when things aren't working properly, especially with the amount of money you have probably spent. Luckily for me i learned how to diagnose certain things and how to fix them by starting off with simple kits and electronics. All of my kits have been Tamiya and started with the hornet, then a stadium blitzer, to the midnight pumpkin, a Manta ray and a couple of other simple kits. All of the kits just mentioned are ones that i would not purchase at this point in time due to performance purposes, but all were very fun to drive and to work on but most of all taught me everything i know in this hobby.
I understand that none of my rambling is going to help you, but i encourage you to stick with it as things will be rewarding when you have a better understanding of the hobby and how things work. I hope that it doesn't sound like i'm belittleing your knowledge for the hobby. My best suggestion to fix your current problem is to bring your car to a meeting so that you can have someone look at it for you. I myself don't race, but understand that the best place for you to have your car looked at for no cost would be at the race track. I hope i have been a little helpful for you and wish you the best of luck to get things sorted out.;)

[AaronR]

I run the rear shocks mounted on the most outward hole on the rear arms too on high traction surfaces. Jimmy, when are you going to Italy and why?

[jimmy]

European Championships are on the collegno track in Italy - the same one used at the World Championships in 2005. Its some time in July I think. I'll take all my Tamiyas but if theres no real difference between the 501X's and Durga, I'd prefer to race the plastic machine just because it's more satisfying to beat someone with a Durga :lol:

CA, definitely get down to a club and ask around and someone will surely have a look for you

[ashleyb4]

my god this thread is long.

A

[A.J. Gee]

my god this thread is long.

A

So isn't my D!@%:woot:. Sorry guy's i just had to say that. Just let me know if this is too inappropriate for your site Jimmy. That kind of talk will get you kicked out of certain RC forums. I just won't mention which ones.:cry:

[AaronR]

European Championships are on the collegno track in Italy - the same one used at the World Championships in 2005. Its some time in July I think. I'll take all my Tamiyas but if theres no real difference between the 501X's and Durga, I'd prefer to race the plastic machine just because it's more satisfying to beat someone with a Durga :lol:

Sweet! I look forward to the pre- and post-game reports! :wub:woot:

[Toonz]

my TAC4 is coming up next sunday and i haven't touched the durga for a month :D

[mog ruith]

I'm just building a new DB01 at the moment to take to Italy for the Euros. I think if you keep it fairly simple then it's a great car. Of course, you have the option to stick tons of hopups on it, some like the CVD's are a good idea, others like Alloy Hubs and alloy steering are more looks than anything as I've never broken a plastic item and the alloy make the car feel different (worse) I think.
My new car has the rc Champ screw set, which I've used because I had it kicking around for ages - but if I was buying a set now I'd get the ones from Tonys screws.

My new car has:

front one way diff
slipper
501X shocks
alloy/titanium screws
501X (worlds?) ball studs
501X rear diff (all metal)
Kanzen ceramic diff balls

On the way:
TA05 carbon battery strap (to stiffen the car a little)
carbon front rear middle top covers (to stiffen the car a little)


pros and cons?

Pros: with minimal hopups (TRF shocks) the car is awesome.
Strong, somewhat sealed from the environment, reliable
easy to drive

cons: motor and diff access is a little poor - you have to undo 10000 screws.
kit screws are rubbish and almost impossible to build the car with!
the chassis and other parts are best to be pre-tapped to make it easier to build - I used a screw on a drill to do this.
The car is easier to drive on slippery tracks - when it gets high grip the slightly flexible chassis probably makes it a little less consistent and predictable than my 501X.

hey jimmy thanks for the advice and you got pm

[CAClark]

Thanks for the reply, I'm a returning owner really, as I owned a Hornet, and then a Samurai twenty years ago, so things are a lot different now then they were then. The only real issue it can be realistically is gearing. Everything rolls free, and based on someone recommendation on pinions, I have pinions that pitch either side of what would be best suited for a 17T (incidentally, the motor doesn't have adjustable timing).

I'm somewhat cash strapped at the moment, but I'll quite likely be at Batley with my mate sometime soon.

Jimmy, just out of interest, what would be your brushed motor/pinion of choice for the Durga if it is run with an LRP Quantum2 Competition?

Cheers!

Hey man i am sorry to hear that your problem with the Durga is still happening. Just as jimmy has stated, it is hard to diagnose the problem without having the car in flesh. Quite obviously the problem has something to do with your electronics. Did you buy your gear new or used? The best suggestion for the problem was that your motor timing might be set too high. Did you look into this possible problem?
From my understanding you are quite new to this hobby. I feel your pain and know just how frustrating things can be when things aren't working properly, especially with the amount of money you have probably spent. Luckily for me i learned how to diagnose certain things and how to fix them by starting off with simple kits and electronics. All of my kits have been Tamiya and started with the hornet, then a stadium blitzer, to the midnight pumpkin, a Manta ray and a couple of other simple kits. All of the kits just mentioned are ones that i would not purchase at this point in time due to performance purposes, but all were very fun to drive and to work on but most of all taught me everything i know in this hobby.
I understand that none of my rambling is going to help you, but i encourage you to stick with it as things will be rewarding when you have a better understanding of the hobby and how things work. I hope that it doesn't sound like i'm belittleing your knowledge for the hobby. My best suggestion to fix your current problem is to bring your car to a meeting so that you can have someone look at it for you. I myself don't race, but understand that the best place for you to have your car looked at for no cost would be at the race track. I hope i have been a little helpful for you and wish you the best of luck to get things sorted out.;)

[jimmy]

I've been running a peak vantage 12x1 on 20t pinion outdoors, that's with a Keyence zero-V Extreme speedcontroller. I've just built the new car and put a 12x2 reedy Ti on the same gearing in it.

[CAClark]

Logic dictates it can only be the gearing. I did at least get to see the car running for a quater of an hour or so at a pretty decent pace, which in itself was good, because with the LRP GT3 12x2 it was really slow. Needless I won't be buying a budget motor again when I can get a new one. I'll be looking at those that you mentioned.

Cheers!

I've been running a peak vantage 12x1 on 20t pinion outdoors, that's with a Keyence zero-V Extreme speedcontroller. I've just built the new car and put a 12x2 reedy Ti on the same gearing in it.

[jimmy]

a peak / orion vantage / v2 is what you want as they last ages. I am using the reedy because I have a few new ones

[mog ruith]

hahaha went crazy just now and go get my self a db01
during my lunch, right now i have manage to assamble
the diff, front and rear shock tower
anyway the plastic used on this kit is great
its somewhat better than my df02 and dt02
plus the kit screw sux :lol:

[jimmy]

When I built up the new durga at the weekend, I spent a few minutes with a hex-head screw in a drill just pre-threading all the holes. The screw got hot enough to smoke and even burn my finger - but it made installing the screws a lot easier.. needless to say I didn't use the kit screws though.

[CAClark]

I must admit I have noticed how rubbish the kit screws are, need to order a screw kit when I get a new motor I think.

Cheers!

[CAClark]

a peak / orion vantage / v2 is what you want as they last ages. I am using the reedy because I have a few new ones

Okee dokee, nice one.

[DCM]

if you tap the holes, then it isn't so bad, use the AW grease too.... buy some cap head 12mm screws for the suspension holders though, it makes it far easier to remove after.

[sosidge]

http://www.geocities.jp/hobby_show_album/japan/shizuoka2008/images/0122.jpg

[jimmy]

Not seen photos of them yet no. nice one. Are any of these actually out yet? What's that blue alloy square thing? Ah ok, I see it now, it's a cover for underneath the motor with the new cutout... hmm.

[DCM]

not to sure what that metal plate will acheive unless it is directly attatched to the motor mount.... then it could be a funky heatsink.....

[jimmy]

I think it must do otherwise it would be a bit MAD. I guess you can still use this new chassis without it tho? and get more cooling

[DCM]

This is Tamiya, so who knows :woot: but I guess in dusty track, or wet tracks, it means you get cooling AND sealed chassis still...

[sosidge]

I'll wager the fifth hole attaches to the bottom of the motor mount and the other four holes secure in place on the chassis.

[outspaced]

I must admit I have noticed how rubbish the kit screws are, need to order a screw kit when I get a new motor I think.

Cheers!

They are a bit rubbish aren't they. Mine have started to rust after I took the Durga out in the rain and splashed it through loads of gritty puddles. I put the one-way front diff in tonight for a bit of fun. Will install the slipper when the motor comes I think, probably don't even need it but I enjoy the tinkering.

[TRF_AK]

The blue aluminum square thing is in fact a motor heat sink. The problem is that the only way to use the new carbon reinforced lower deck is with that heat sink as there is no other option to fill that large hole. Luckily the heat sink is only about $10USD at full MSRP through Tamiya. Should be about $7USD in the stores. The nicest pieces are the suspension mounts in aluminum like you have so many problems with in step 1 of the manual. They are definately a nice piece!

[jimmy]

Hey Andrew, any idea when these parts are in the shops? Just busy with 2 review cars on the go, but still managed to build my new Durga this weekend - got a few new bits like the carbon upper decks on order but I'd like to get the carbon chassis and maybe the centre one way if I can find them

[DCM]

if the Carbon chassis is lighter, and the carbon parts lighter... I may have to flex some spending money lol

[TRF_AK]

Hey Jimmy, stateside they should be out about the middle to end of June. We still don't have our samples in, but I know when the guys went to the Shizuoka hobby show a couple weeks ago, they got to talk to the designer and see the parts and all came back really floored with how nice they are. I might be a little biased obviously, but I always think the blue anodized stuff looks good on the kits!

[DCM]

are they the same performance upgrade like the Carbon plastics parts on the TA05? and if so, any news on whether the chassis is flat and not tweaked like the carbon plastic TA05 tub?

[mog ruith]

im about to do my shocks
what would you guys recomend??
light oil at the front and heavy on the back?
or the other way round?
heavy on the front and light on the back?
i just dont want this thing to bottom out or nose dive

[jimmy]

Are these the kit shocks? heavy as you can find all round :lol: Usually you'd want heavier in the front but these shocks are a bit random, and actually different diameters. You could try the hardest piston in the front (single hole?) and the middle (double hole??) in the rear as well.

[mog ruith]

yes these are kit shocks on second tought i might just use my alu shock that came with my dt02ms and swap it with the durga kit shocks
what do you guys think?

[DCM]

run the kit oil with the kit springs and pistons, they won't be that bad actually....

[TRF_AK]

are they the same performance upgrade like the Carbon plastics parts on the TA05? and if so, any news on whether the chassis is flat and not tweaked like the carbon plastic TA05 tub?
Yes these carbon parts are the same concept as on the TA05. The chassis is said to be more refined in the process than the first batches of TA05 carbon ones were so tweaking should not be as big a problem. I don't think there is anyway to prevent it 100% based on the structure and of course the shipping methods, but they should be better.

I have all of the current carbon parts on my person one and they seem to all be very good. The only issue I had was that Tamiya Inc. did not decide to take the time to fix the mold for the suspension blocks so that the holes didn't need to be tapped. Oh well, that's what the aluminum ones are for!!!

[mog ruith]

almost finish buildng my kit
its a bit of pain building this kit because of the screw

anyway thanks jimmy and dcm regarding the advice on the shocks

[DCM]

I prefer the aluminium ones, they are far stronger

[Sensory Overload]

Well I managed to get out with my Durga this pasted weekend with a 6th overall finish in the A-main :thumbsup:. I'm super happy since the car is pretty much stock other than the slipper and TRF501x shocks. The funny thing is that the car was only fitted with a 10.5 Orion (grossly under-powered compared to the 6.5's in the group). The car turned and jumped so smoothly I had many of the other drivers scratching there head's "DURGA?? 10.5???" followed by "YOU ONLY PAID HOW MUCH???". Like Jimmy said it's kinda nice beating your buddies with a 160.00cdn car! If I only had a little more motor down the straight - who knows where I may have finished.

I'd love to share my set-up. Jimmy do you any plans of making an editable set-up sheet similiar to the 501X? With this many people following the DB01 thread there's got to be a couple of good ones out there. I've got two (indoor carpet and outdoor clay/dusty) I'd love to share.

P.S. Great Site!!!

D-Main Donnie

[jimmy]

haha, might try get round to it some day buddy - I'm just really busy at the moment but yeah it would be good to make one for the car.

[mole2k]

I was very tempted to get a durga for the sole purpose of racing a fairly budget car against a load of 501's and being still on pace.

I chickened out and bought the WE 501 though :P

[outspaced]

I'd be very interested in seeing a sheet of setups ;)

[CAClark]

haha, might try get round to it some day buddy - I'm just really busy at the moment but yeah it would be good to make one for the car.

Any time would be good Jimmy, no rush, but I'd love this too.... to get some insight in to setups.

Cheers!

[DCM]

No pressure then Jimbo :woot:

[sosidge]

I'd be very interested in seeing a sheet of setups ;)

If anyone is interested I can post my base setup, which I have been using indoors and out for the last few race meetings. I can either write it out or put it on Tamiyas own Durga setup sheet.

[CAClark]

If anyone is interested I can post my base setup, which I have been using indoors and out for the last few race meetings. I can either write it out or put it on Tamiyas own Durga setup sheet.

Well I'm interested mate :)

[gargadud]

Me too :)

[sosidge]

Written out or on the Durga sheet?

[CAClark]

Durga Sheet stylee would be good, but if the lingo is the same then written out would be just as good I think.

Cheers!

[sosidge]

I have put the setup in the Durga setups thread in the forum - You can ask questions about it here I suppose to keep that thread tidier, I would certainly welcome any feedback on it, it goes pretty well for me, very consistent and easy to drive.

[antnee]

Bugger!

Not happy
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g138/antnee-m/Durga-DB01/DSC00665.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g138/antnee-m/Durga-DB01/DSC00666.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g138/antnee-m/Durga-DB01/DSC00668.jpg

3rd corner of first heat, went wide over track markings and head on into a B44, B44 broke a shock shaft:( I broke; wishbone, pivot block, shock bottom, bent hinge pin, lost end bits(plastic things on the ends of the hinge pins)

Shock bottom is no problem, have spares, need to buy wishbone, pivot block(may go aluminum) and get some of the plastic pivot ball things.

So question-where can I buy pivot balls, wishbone and aluminum pivot blocks from?

[outspaced]

I've been getting lots of nice parts from the japan and HK based ebay shops. They've been very quick to deliver at around 5 days and they mark things as a gift on the package so you don't pay duty :)

I use the tamiya usa db01 hop-up list to get part numbers to search for.

http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/rcpss.php?command=hopups&chassis_id=B01

So far I've put in the front one way, slipper clutch and super stock BZ 23t motor. Runs much better now :D but just makes me want even more speed! I have big plans for it over the summer :thumbsup:

[antnee]

All my build pics are here http://s55.photobucket.com/albums/g138/antnee-m/Durga-DB01/

a selection
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g138/antnee-m/Durga-DB01/DSC00611.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g138/antnee-m/Durga-DB01/DSC00619.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g138/antnee-m/Durga-DB01/DSC00631.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g138/antnee-m/Durga-DB01/DSC00663.jpg

[antnee]

So does anyone know where I can get pivot balls, wishbone and aluminum pivot blocks from? As in one shop that sells them all?

Can you get the pivot balls seperatly from tamiya or another make?

[Chris Ward]

Brock Models have the wishbone and the pivot balls, but I've only seen the 3 Racing ally parts on ebay and stella models. The pivot balls are listed under the on-road parts section here (http://www.brockmodels.com/index.php?cPath=173_177&osCsid=5150c18c5069b3fdb072cad746f8c813)

Hope that helps

Chris

[antnee]

thanks, just ordered those, will keep with the plastic blocks for now then, if it happens again I will go aluminum

bring on friday!:woot:

[mog ruith]

guys im having some kind of probs with my durga
its the ball diff that is
when i throttle the diff will spin but the buggy wont move
seem like the diff is just slipping both front and rear
what did do wrong here?

[antnee]

did you glue the metal rings onto the plastic outdrives?

A way to check if its tight enough, is to hold one wheel and the spur gear, you should only just be able to turn the opposite wheel at the right setting

[mog ruith]

i have glued the metal rings
anyway i just rebuild the diffs what happens if i tighten it hard?

[antnee]

you should tighten it until it is too hard to turn (dont force it) then back it off a bit until you can turn it over nicely

[DCM]

got a few little tipsters for you guys modding the Durga/Baldre..... the 3Racing shock towers works with the kits shocks, but not with the 501X shocks.... the 501X shocks are longer and generate a lot more droop, this cuases some odd handling, a lot of power on understeer for starter.... so if you plan on the 501X shocks, might be worth looking at having towers made.... that raises the mouting holes for the shock tops 5mm up.

the 3Racing suspension holders are really good though, and anything more than a 19t/10.5 then invest in the uprated rear diff halves at least.

[A.J. Gee]

the 3Racing suspension holders are really good though, and anything more than a 19t/10.5 then invest in the uprated rear diff halves at least.[/quote]

I was wondering where the best place to get the uprated diff halves would be? Thanks.

[jimmy]

http://rc-mushroom.com/product_info.php?cPath=36_311&products_id=12005

Theres some diff halves - I've seen them cheaper than that though. Not sure if it's something Tamiya UK even import so I can't link to any UK suppliers sorry. The full-metal diff is only really important at the rear where the most power gets put down.

[DCM]

if Hobby Co have them in stock, then you can order, if not, it is 8 weeks at least.

[A.J. Gee]

Thanks guys. I will have to give them both a try. I am also gonna need a couple pulleys for my rear diff. Stella has some, but they are for the front one way it says. It's a 37T pulley so i dont see what the difference would be. Maybe you guy's would know better:yawn:

[Zipper]

I'm having problems with the rear diff coming lose? I have 501 diff outdrives, ceramic balls but still the rear diff is coming lose. I have even replaced the diff screw & nut but still the same problem. Any ideas?

[jimmy]

Thanks guys. I will have to give them both a try. I am also gonna need a couple pulleys for my rear diff. Stella has some, but they are for the front one way it says. It's a 37T pulley so i dont see what the difference would be. Maybe you guy's would know better:yawn:

one way pulley has a huge hole in the middle for the one way - so it won't work for a diff. You need diff pulleys.

[jimmy]

I'm having problems with the rear diff coming lose? I have 501 diff outdrives, ceramic balls but still the rear diff is coming lose. I have even replaced the diff screw & nut but still the same problem. Any ideas?

If you're 100% sure that there's no binding, bent screw or bent outdrive then you can try the following:

Get your 37t pulley in your hand - see the little 'nobs' that stick out in between each hole? get a sharp scalpel (a bendy one works best) and carefully cut each of these off. Hupo won the Euros so I beleive what he says - and the friction of these on the plates can undo the diff sometimes. Don't worry I thought he was on something as well - but I've done it ever since and I've never had a diff come loose since.
The 'nobs' stop the pulley wobbling about - but it doesn't really matter if it wobbles about.

Usually it's the thrust race though - when you build it make sure you put the face with the lowest brass insert toward the outside (the head of the screw). This is so the screw sits on the plate of the thrust race rather than the insert. Also make sure you grease the race with black grease or antiwear grease.

[Zipper]

Usually it's the thrust race though - when you build it make sure you put the face with the lowest brass insert toward the outside (the head of the screw). This is so the screw sits on the plate of the thrust race rather than the insert.

Great tip, thanks! Just took diff to pieces and I had the thrust race in opposite to your suggestion, so have turned it around. I will be very interested to see if it fixes the problem! :thumbsup:

[DCM]

yeah, there is a specific way to install the thrust race, the brass insert has a square and a rounded side, the rounded side goes to the head of the diff screw, if you put it the other way around, it can gouge the screw and shear the head off when you tighten the diff...

Good tip that, about the diff Jim.... going to try that!

[Zipper]

yeah, there is a specific way to install the thrust race, the brass insert has a square and a rounded side, the rounded side goes to the head of the diff screw, if you put it the other way around, it can gouge the screw and shear the head off when you tighten the diff...

Good tip that, about the diff Jim.... going to try that!

By rounded, do you mean the side with the slight indent? I hope so, because this is the side I have now rebuilt with the diff screw touching! :lol:

[DCM]

that be the one!

[Zipper]

I was wondering where the best place to get the uprated diff halves would be? Thanks.

I got mine here: http://www.brockmodels.com/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=51286&osCsid=97de35950bc01f3cfa31289c566e9a66

[jimmy]

I got some of the carbon parts this week for my new durga, the top decks/covers and the shock towers. the towers look to have a lot more carbon in them but it might be the way they are moulded? they are just a lot more 'grey' in appearance.

The car definitely feels stiffer with all the parts on - I think that'll be a good thing for high traction tracks and to make the car a bit more consistent, but I did very well with the standard plastics so I'm not sure how these will go yet, we'll see.
I also got the TA05 carbon cell strap since the kit strap is like rubber! this should also stiffen the car a little.

http://www.oople.com/rc/photos/misc/carbondurga01.jpg

[ashleyb4]

Looking really cool jimmy i agree the shock towers look a lighter colour when comparing them to your original photo's from the review.

A

[Chris Ward]

Where's the blue screwset from on that one Jimmy? I've got the Tonys Screwz one on mine, just wondered how that compared?


Thanks
Chris

[jimmy]

its from RC Champ, I actually bought it when I bought the car to review - but I didn't use it at the time. I used it now because I have it. Would I reccomend it? it's nice to look at but that's about it. I am considering getting a tonys screw kit for it to be honest. The kit is part titanium and mostly Alloy - the Ti screws are fine of course, but the alloy screws aren't generally a great idea since they can break or strip easily. Still, I had it so I've used it :thumbsup:

Stick with your Tonys!

[ben]

:o jimmy. Aluminium screws on a shock tower. TUT TUT :thumbdown: :lol:

[jimmy]

LOL exactly! I've changed the front tower screws to have a couple of Ti screws in there instead, with the interlocking between gearbox top and tower I think it'll be OK.. Nothing better than steel tho!

[mog ruith]

do you guys have any probs with ur arms always ripped apart?
i mean the part which is attach to the bumper
if so is there any remedy to this?

[mog ruith]

sorry guys i didnt mean rip apart
i meant fall apart

[sosidge]

Fall apart on their own or fall apart in a crash?

If they fall apart on their own then something is assembled wrong.

If they fall apart in a crash then this is something people have complained about, it should be partly solved by the soon-to-be-released-by-Tamiya aluminum suspension mounts, although I have never had this problem, which I think is because I put some small shims on the suspension shafts to take out the play.

[jimmy]

I had this once, at southport which is an incredibly bumpy and punishing track - I did about half a lap before the rear arm fell out. Like the sosidge man says, the car has a little slop at the inner hinge pins as standard - if you shim this so there is NO slop but it still moves freely then your suspension will not fall out.
Another thing to check is the plastic balls that go over the ends of the hingepins - these wear quite quickly, especially at the rear, and make it easier for the car to fall apart. If you put new balls on and shim it then it'll be fine. I've put metal balls on my new durga - though I'm not sure how easy these are to find (they are from the 501X). The alloy hinge pin blocks should also help but I've never seen a need for them and haven't bothered getting them on my new Durga.

[mog ruith]

thanks jimmy for the advice this is really getting annoying
especially today is my first time running this thing
and by the way i heard that this is a common prob
and tamiya is doin something bout it (releasing a new part that is)
but not sure if thats true i went to get parts just now at my local distributor for tamiya and he told me that new part to solve this problem is goin to be release soon sometime next month

[jimmy]

I don't know about new parts - other than the alloy blocks that is. If you shim it then I don't think it's even an issue. I used about 3 0.2mm shims each side to take up any slack. It's a real pain if it does happen since you can easily lose some small parts in the dirt, but other than that once before I shimmed it all up it's been OK for me.

[DCM]

the new parts will be the Tamiya hop-up alloy suspension holders which 3Racing already make.

[mog ruith]

you mean the alu caster block? #53961
is that any good? and by the way you used 3 shims on each side
for every arm? sorry for the dumb question this thing has taken lots of my time first the diffs and now this

[A.J. Gee]

Man oh man, things suck at the moment. I have somehow managed to melt two of my rear differential pulleys. It looks like i wont be running my buggy for at least a couple of weeks. Another thing that sucks is the fact that i have no other option but to order this part internationally. It really pisses me off that Tamiya USA have none in stock and that this particular part which is very crucial seems to be limited. Brushless+Lipo is the best thing since sliced bread, but can be a real bitch on Diffs. Dont get me wrong though, I will never go back to brushed motors or Nimh batteries.

[DCM]

I have run brushless and LiPo in it and it works fine, you just need to check and adjust the rear diff as needed, if you really are having problems, coar the end of the diff screw in threadlock, it should help it from self adjusting.

[A.J. Gee]

I have run brushless and LiPo in it and it works fine, you just need to check and adjust the rear diff as needed, if you really are having problems, coar the end of the diff screw in threadlock, it should help it from self adjusting.

Yeah i think your right. The diff screw is most likely self adjusting every time i take it out for a go. The environment and the way i drive may be a contributing factor to my problem. I recently found a very fun place to drive it, but the only problem is all the sand there. My first couple of runs there, i didn't seem to be getting much sand or pebbles in the drive train, but my last couple didn't go too well as i managed to F-up the diffs pretty good and i also noticed more debris in the drivetrain.

[budgio]

I was just wondering if any one will try to cut their chassis to fit the 54040 motor heat sink? or do you have to buy the 54041 chassis?http://www.stellamodels.net/catalog/images/54040.jpg

[mog ruith]

Fall apart on their own or fall apart in a crash?

If they fall apart on their own then something is assembled wrong.

If they fall apart in a crash then this is something people have complained about, it should be partly solved by the soon-to-be-released-by-Tamiya aluminum suspension mounts, although I have never had this problem, which I think is because I put some small shims on the suspension shafts to take out the play.

hey sosidge the alu suspension mount is it part #54037 and 54038?
saw them at stella models and since its alu wont it break that easily since that is where the buggy will take some very hard impact?

[sosidge]

I was just wondering if any one will try to cut their chassis to fit the 54040 motor heat sink? or do you have to buy the 54041 chassis?http://www.stellamodels.net/catalog/images/54040.jpg

You would be mad to try and cut the standard chassis to fit this part!

[sosidge]

hey sosidge the alu suspension mount is it part #54037 and 54038?
saw them at stella models and since its alu wont it break that easily since that is where the buggy will take some very hard impact?

Well, it is nice to know that the parts are out but I personally won't be rushing out to buy them. Never broken the plastic mounts, even in a crash that was strong enough to bend the front suspension shaft and break the wishbone too!

Shims is a lot cheaper and seems to work.

All I have broken on the car from crashes are a couple of shock towers and a gearbox top (always my fault for landing on the roof) plus the aforementioned wishbone/suspension shaft (which was from a head on with a car going the wrong way around the track). Rear shock tower breakages are solved by mounting the wing further back so it doesn't hit the tower, front tower breakages are solved by staying on all four wheels - same thing applies to every 4wd car!

[gargadud]

Agree with you sosidge. shims and Fluorine Coated Suspension Ball (Item #53709) are the cure !
We had a big crash too bending the suspension shaft and braking the front arm but everything remained in place (suspension ball, bended shaft, shims).

[antnee]

i broke the plastic mount:thumbsup: but it was quite a bad crash, still cos im tight I just used the ones I had from the rear (used a hop up there)

[mog ruith]

sosidge this maybe alot to ask but how do you fit the shims and how?
i know just slot it in the shaft but just wanting to be sure on how and where exactly, a pic will be nice. im a total noob at this you guys so im just needing some guidance here :lol:

[jimmy]

I think I got some photos but no idea where :lol: put them either end of the hinge pin before the ball - doesn't matter where really since it's not going to change the wheelbase, just tighten things up a little. I got some perfectly sized shims from Tamiya, but not sure of the part number - might be able to fit bigger ones in there? not sure..

[mog ruith]

well jimmy if you had those pic pls post here
anyway i got myself fluorine coated balls and carbon reinforced m parts
should get that carbon reinforced a parts too if i had known

[antnee]

I realised earlier, in my big crash, it also broke the top of the shock, the cap bit, :( Ive glued it as it was only a little broken so I'll see how that goes!

[antnee]

:mad: Not doing very well with this durga :mad:

Second race, 6 laps it, bit of a griding noise coming from the rear take it apart to find
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g138/antnee-m/Durga-DB01/DSC00669-1.jpg
Shreded rear diff:mad:

not happy :mad: as I thought the diff's were fine, but it was obviously not tight enough as the metal rings are still firmly on the plastic drives

[jimmy]

Animal! :o You should always check the diffs, get into the habit of just twisting a wheel round every time you hold the car. The diffs on these cars (apart from that naff plastic holder) are really very good - but like any diff they need looking after and especially when new they will loosen.

[mog ruith]

maybe who knows 3 or yeah racing will come out with an alu diff :thumbsup:

[DCM]

it ISN'T the diff, but if you are having a diff that is killing itself, then replace at least the diff nut, dip the screw in some threadlock too. You can upgrade to the steel diff's, but I just done a whole national and two club meets on a 5.5 sintered motor and not had an issue, I just regularly check diff tension. If you don't, you will stll melt pulleys with the steel diff outdrives.

[antnee]

I thought it was all ok, untill it just started going slower and slower

[Ben.C]

Hi all,

Was wondering if any one has good setup tips on racing the DB01 on carpet (smooth surface).

My DB01 simply doesn't want to turn. As its a Tamiya race, we have to us the Tamiya tires. :bored:

Any input is welcome. Thanks in advance.

[jimmy]

limit the rear droop, that'll stop it hanging on for so long and allow the car to turn.

[sosidge]

Hi all,

Was wondering if any one has good setup tips on racing the DB01 on carpet (smooth surface).

My DB01 simply doesn't want to turn. As its a Tamiya race, we have to us the Tamiya tires. :bored:

Any input is welcome. Thanks in advance.

Try my setup that I posted in the setup thread. I used that on a track where all but one of the corner apexes was on carpet and it worked pretty well for me.

The key change for consistency on high grip in my book is putting the rear shocks on the outer hole of the wishbone. Limiting droop makes a difference but also makes the car less stable on the bumps, personally I prefer to get the wheel rates stiff enough to limit roll without compromising the bump handling.

[DCM]

I am finding at the moment, I am putting limiters in the 501X shocks so they are going back to giving the same amount of droop as the kit shocks, the BIG droop seems to hinder more than help in corner performance.

Still got a nasty rear kick over sharp bumps though.... going to have to invest in pistons me thinks

[antnee]

Any shops in the UK stock the diff pulleys?

[Ben.C]

limit the rear droop, that'll stop it hanging on for so long and allow the car to turn.

Try my setup that I posted in the setup thread. I used that on a track where all but one of the corner apexes was on carpet and it worked pretty well for me.

The key change for consistency on high grip in my book is putting the rear shocks on the outer hole of the wishbone. Limiting droop makes a difference but also makes the car less stable on the bumps, personally I prefer to get the wheel rates stiff enough to limit roll without compromising the bump handling.


Thanks for the advice. Will try out.!! :thumbsup:

[ricky1981]

Just got by Durga kit, making the differentials and the manual says "be careful not to overtighten" but I've also heard there are problems from having them loose so what "tightness" should I be aiming for (I imagine I will have to retighten after a few runs).

Realise it's hard to describe but should I just tighten as much as I can by hand using a small allen key or will that be too much?

[budgio]

Any shops in the UK stock the diff pulleys?

Google is your friend :)

http://www.google.co.uk/products?hl=en&q=54023+DB01+Front+One-Way+Pulley+(37T)+&cr=countryUK%7CcountryGB&um=1&ie=UTF-8

[jimmy]

I didn't try THAT hard but I couldn't see the diff pulley on demon? the one way pulley is different, I do have a spare of that but not the diff pulley.

[sosidge]

Just got by Durga kit, making the differentials and the manual says "be careful not to overtighten" but I've also heard there are problems from having them loose so what "tightness" should I be aiming for (I imagine I will have to retighten after a few runs).

Realise it's hard to describe but should I just tighten as much as I can by hand using a small allen key or will that be too much?

Hand tight (normal hands, not builders hands!) on initial assembly, check once in the car, recheck after a couple of runs.

Basic setting is not to slip easily (hold the spur and one wheel and try to turn the other), and the diff action should be smooth but with a little resistance, not spinning free.

[ricky1981]

Thanks, that's what I have done, will crack on with the rest now :)

[A.J. Gee]

I was wondering if any of you guys could suggest an alternative to the urethane bushings that fit into the Diff joints? They are the pink circular foam thingy's. Thanks.

[scotoap]

A.J.Gee, I make my own (Pink Foamy things) from old bumper rubbers or similar dense foam.
I have a section of broken ariel tube, which if you press and twist into the foam will cut a roughly cylindrical section which you cut into the desired length; hope this helps.
The same thing I also use to stop dogbones rattling in the outdrives.

[DCM]

if you get the filter tips for roll-up cigarrettes, they cut in half and are an exact fit.

[sosidge]

Another moment towards my 15 minutes...

http://www.oople.com/rc/photos/nercr240508/bigimages/2008_05244wdNERCR0019.jpg

My Durga in one of the photos in the oople report from the South Shields regional.

[AaronR]

What body is that?

[jimmy]

its, a, durga body! :thumbsup:

[Toonz]

finally i got my db01 shocks today:thumbsup:

i'm using front and rear universal, how many mm of spacers do i need to install into the front and rear shocks to prevent the universals from popping out?

any advice on the springs?

thanks!:)

[sosidge]

Now I'm not sure how long the shafts are in the new shock set but you will probably need a few spacers - I am running mine at 80mm overall length front and 98mm overall length rear which seems a good balance between good travel and not losing driveshafts (I am still running dogbones in the rear).

For springs use the kit Durga ones (which are option DF03 ones). They are a good rate for the car and since they are a bit shorter than the TRF ones they give a good ride height too.

[A.J. Gee]

A.J.Gee, I make my own (Pink Foamy things) from old bumper rubbers or similar dense foam.
I have a section of broken ariel tube, which if you press and twist into the foam will cut a roughly cylindrical section which you cut into the desired length; hope this helps.
The same thing I also use to stop dogbones rattling in the outdrives.


Hey thanks a lot. Very good idea.

[A.J. Gee]

if you get the filter tips for roll-up cigarrettes, they cut in half and are an exact fit.


Very brilliant idea. I appreciate that. I will definitley be using this alternative method.:thumbsup:

[jimmy]

I just cut a triangular bit of tyre inner foam for the one way drive cups - it's softer so doesn't bind up the suspension or drivetrain like the tamiya supplied orange things do.

[sosidge]

The thing that most annoys me about the Tamiya urethane bushings is that they break up inside the head of the diff screw, so when you pull them out the diff screw is full of gunk that you need to scratch out before you can do any adjustments! I will probably make something out of an old bit of inner foam at some point myself.

[A.J. Gee]

Just a curious question here. I was wondering how often some of you guys change your damper oil? Another question on my mind is when you have the spring off of your dampers and you push the piston all the way in, how far is the piston supposed to rebound back? Mine come back about 1/3 or maybe less then the piston length.

[jimmy]

I tend to setup my car so it has about 1/4 rebound and quite soft on full compression.

[A.J. Gee]

I can never seem to get both the dampers for the front and rear to rebound the same distance. I have them pretty close but when it comes to my buggy's i am a bit of a perfectionist.

By the way Sosidge, your buggy looks bad ass in that one photo. I love the white with the durga body shell. Makes me wish i went with a similar theme. I was wondering, what kind of tires you have on it. Are they the mini pins/spikes? I might have to pick me up a set.

[sosidge]

I can never seem to get both the dampers for the front and rear to rebound the same distance. I have them pretty close but when it comes to my buggy's i am a bit of a perfectionist.

By the way Sosidge, your buggy looks bad ass in that one photo. I love the white with the durga body shell. Makes me wish i went with a similar theme. I was wondering, what kind of tires you have on it. Are they the mini pins/spikes? I might have to pick me up a set.

BAD ASS! Yeah baby - that's me!

I didn't choose white for the street cred though - I do all my shells white because it is EASY and I can SEE them! The tyres are Schumacher Minispikes in yellow compound - pretty much the default tyre for dry grass tracks here in the UK.

To get even rebound you will probably need to drill the holes in the caps and find some tiny screws to bleed them with - but to be honest a small difference in rebound isn't going to kill you. I just fill mine enough so that when they are fully compressed I neither feel any stiffening of the damping nor get more than just a tiny squeak of air bubbles, that seems to work fine for me!

[NitroStar]

I noticed a lot of people talking about the dog bones falling out if you don't put at least 3mm of limiters inside the 501x shocks. I don't notice this. In fact I'm thinking of removing 3mm and having a lot more droop to soak up big jumps & ruts in the rough track that I am running on. What do yall think? Is it just the universals that fall out or the dog bones too?

[DCM]

droop is a give here take there adjustment, I find that the droop may help rough terrain absorbsion but makes the car a lot more wallowy in the corners.

[NitroStar]

If my car bounced after a pretty high landing, then more droop would help that right? I don't want to go with heavier oil because that would effect steering and other things as well, right? Am I thinking in the right direction?

[DCM]

well, yes and no, see, no matter how much droop you have, depending on the jump, depends if you get chassis slap, and given loads of droop isn't really the answer.

I watch the kids cars going round on the stock shocks, and they look far more behaved than mine... grrrr

[sosidge]

If my car bounced after a pretty high landing, then more droop would help that right? I don't want to go with heavier oil because that would effect steering and other things as well, right? Am I thinking in the right direction?

Droop gives more travel to soak up those landings, so may well help a landing "bounce", yes. Worth a test.

[NitroStar]

well, yes and no, see, no matter how much droop you have, depending on the jump, depends if you get chassis slap, and given loads of droop isn't really the answer.

I watch the kids cars going round on the stock shocks, and they look far more behaved than mine... grrrr

Well, mine slaps just like it did (maybe not as bad) with the stock shocks. But, with the length suggested on sosidge's base setup, the 501x shocks are only 1 or 2mm longer than the stock ones. So I can understand why it slaps almost as bad. I'll rebuild them a little longer and see if I can keep the back end from bottoming out so badly.

[jimmy]

it's just the CVD's yes - the dogbones (which I run) won't come out. I have 2 o rings inside the shock to act as a limiter, and also running the rod end and spring cup from the durga kit shocks (the short one) which makes the shocks a little shorter.

if your car is slapping you need more pack in the shocks. what's your setup now?

[NitroStar]

Setup:

-501x shocks with the pistons that came with the 501x shocks installed per instructions (#3 - 1.3mm in fronts & #4 - 1.4mm in rears)
-white springs (that come with shocks)
-35 weight oil - front shocks
-30 weight oil - rear shocks
-4mm limiters all around (total shock length from end to end is: 80mm - front & 98mm - rear)

This make them only about 1 or 2mm longer than the stock shocks

[BloodClod]

I have a related but somewhat different question. I ran a similar setup to nitrostar except that I was running 30wt oil all around, medium rate 501X springs (yellow markings). Ride height was set at around 20mm for the front and just a tad higher for the rear. Running Proline Holeshot tires on an outdoor dirt track. I'm also running the front one-way.

Overall I thought the whole setup was a tad soft but decided to give it a shot on the track anyway.

My question is regarding tire wear. I ran the tires for a 2-3 packs and noticed quite significant wear on the rear tires. I swapped to some bowties in the rear and after another 2 packs saw the same pattern wear on the rear bowties.

Could my tire wear be related to my suspension setup? Prior to this I was running a set of DF03 shocks with stock DB01 springs and I don't think the wear was as significant as this. I'm also curious as to why there was such uneven wear as the fronts are still looking rather new.

Any ideas guys? Please share your thoughts.

BTW, I was also experiencing chassis slap on the above setup though handling on the rest of the track was pretty good. Swapped to #3 (1.3mm) pistons on the rear and will give it another go this weekend.

[TRF_AK]

I just wanted to make a note for those of you considering buying the carbon reinforced chassiss: you will also have to buy the optional heat sink 54040. In addition, you will have to pretap all of the holes in the chassis to prevent stripping the screws out. Due to the harder nature of the compound used, this chassis is even more prone to stripping screws. I have just installed a sample one we got today and found this even more true.

[antnee]

woo!, did 2 whole 5min races this evening!! First and last round, middle 2 I had electrical issues.

Seemed to go quite well, put some spacers on the shocks to try to give it more ground clearence. Overall Im happy though

(must be the oOple stickers that make it go better!! :lol:)

[bender]

Obviously it depends on what track surface you race on, but I can't believe how many of you guys actually use the Tamiya white type springs - especially the red and yellow ones.

I have found these springs to be ridiculously soft - I run on loose, low grip dirt tracks and consider the red and yellow springs far too soft for even these conditions.

Remember the Durga (with nimh) is quite heavy, as are most modern 4wd's.

Out of Tamiya's white springs, I would only ever run the "blue" ones - and even then I'd be inclined to mount the shocks in the outer hole in the arms to stiffen them up somewhat.

I posted this on rctech but my current dirt-track setup is:

Front: kit 1.3 piston 35w oil with blue springs mounted in the outside hole on the arm. No internal limiters.

Rear: kit 1.4 piston 30w oil with kit Durga rear springs mounted in the outside hole on the arm. No internal limiters. Tamiya Blue swaybar used on rear.

[Toonz]

I posted this on rctech but my current dirt-track setup is:

Front: kit 1.3 piston 35w oil with blue springs mounted in the outside hole on the arm. No internal limiters.

Rear: kit 1.4 piston 30w oil with kit Durga rear springs mounted in the outside hole on the arm. No internal limiters. Tamiya Blue swaybar used on rear.


what is the color of your rear spring? the DF03 black one? isn't softer than the 501x (white, red)?:confused:

[bender]

Yeah the DF03 black ones - they are harder than the tamiya blues. (I've even used the DF03 gold springs on occasion!)

[NitroStar]

1 - Hey Bender, so you have no problem with your universals coming out of the outdrive using no limiters in the shocks?

2 - Is that 3Racing parts on your Durga (your website)?

3 - On your front, you use White spring with Blue dot? Is this a 501x spring part number?

4 - Do you use 501x diff halves & rings. How do you get the front blue rings (that beef up the outdrive slot)?
Thanks

[bender]

1 - Hey Bender, so you have no problem with your universals coming out of the outdrive using no limiters in the shocks?
I mount the shocks in the outside hole in the suspension arm so I don't need limiters. If you use the middle hole in the suspension arm then you need 2.5mm+ of limiters.

2 - Is that 3Racing parts on your Durga (your website)?
Yes.

3 - On your front, you use White spring with Blue dot? Is this a 501x spring part number?
Yes, part # 53974

4 - Do you use 501x diff halves & rings. How do you get the front blue rings (that beef up the outdrive slot)?
I use the plastic TA05 diff halves for the front diff, that's why you can see the blue rings. You can only use these with the smaller 36t pulley which gives the car overdrive like on the original 501.

[Toonz]

it seems to me that the 501x springs are not that friendly to the durga even if the 501x shocks or the hop-up shocks are being used.

[DCM]

I ran mine on a bumpy(ish) track with a decent jump on it, with the limited front shocks, and rear droop same as kit and it handles really well, I don't think I got the oil and shock combo there right, but shock length is there. This car feels like it suffers when run with BIG droop.

[Toonz]

some magazines said that the 501/db01 is a on-road inspired buggy, maybe that explains the minimum droop for ultimate performance.....:eh?:

[DCM]

I don't think I have ever owned a buggy that really works with massive droop though, and the DB-01 in kit form got enough.

[jimmy]

The cars are unarguably inspired by the best in off road - hence the Associated shocks, the bj4we suspension, the losi wheels and steering knuckles. etc.

I left my 501X shocks at full length at the front but with the rear limited with 2 orings (about 3mm) and using the short durga spring cups and rod end on the bottom to give a slightly shorter shock - there isn't really enough droop on the rear now.

I raced my new db01 at southport yesterday, with carbon upper covers and shock towers - I think these parts are probably a good investment and go toward making the car more consistent as they take some flex away, especially in the shock towers.
I don't think I've ever broken a shock shaft before, but I managed to bend a rear one at nearly 90 degrees, and in another heat I broke a front one by hitting the track marker with the shock - which is fair enough really.
I qualified 5th, got tagged on the first jump and went to last, got back up to third but had a roll and finished 5th.

[A.J. Gee]

I was wondering: Do any of you guys plan on installing the soon to be released center one-way? I was just curious what purpose or benefits it will provide and if it has anything to do with the slipper clutch that most of us have on there? Will it replace the slipper? Kind of a noob like question, but just wondering what the deal is?

[jimmy]

it won't replace the slipper but will use some different parts - maybe different layshaft and I would assume it's compatible with both the slipper and standard non-slipper gear (but just a guess).
the centre one way is just like a normal 4wd buggy on-power, but off-power the front diff is free to spin and this helps the car rotate round the corners. I'm not sure I'll get one - spent enough :lol:, but I'd not refuse one if it was thrown at me. I'd like to try it.

[A.J. Gee]

Thanks once again Jimmy. I am gonna follow in your foot steps and not order the center one way when it comes out. Just like you said, i to have already spent enough on the so called "budget buggy" lol. I am thinking about selling my Keen Hawk so that i can finance some money for a new project which i have not decided on yet. I would like to give the new Hot Bodies 4wd budget D4 a try. I am itching to build another kit very badly. Half the fun in this hobby after all is building what you drive. If i ever buy a RTR vehicle please somebody shoot me!!!!!!

[outspaced]

Hi guys
I've been slowly but surely ordering and fitting ugrades to my Durga, so far I've installed front one-way, slipper and shocks plus I have a BL and LiPo setup waiting in the wings. The battery has arrived but still waiting on the charger and motor/esc combo. It's lucky I had that promotion at work recently :lol:
(also need things to do whilst my girlfriend is abroad for 4 months)

Few questions though, excuse the noobishness.

How much ground clearance should this buggy have for general offroad driving?

Are there any off-road tracks in south London? The closest I can find is Eden Park, which looks great but would take me about an hour and a half to get to by train and foot.

Is there a general 4WD buggy set-up guide anywhere? Just so I have a reference for tweaking the shocks etc.

Cheers :)

[A.J. Gee]

Do the shock limiters/spacers come with the Tamiya dampers(54028) I dont recall putting them in mine when i built them.

[A.J. Gee]

Do the shock limiters/spacers come with the Tamiya dampers(54028) I dont recall putting them in mine when i built them.


Please disregard this silly question. I just answered it on my own. They are the black spacers that require 2 on each damper. How is everyone reducing the clearance/ride height especially for the rear?

[falcon pwner]

My weekend bash about with my bro ended early last Sunday when I lost drive to the front wheels. Here's a pic of what we found under the front diff cover. The three bolts that hold the one-way pully to the one-way hub managed to fully back themselves out which released the pully to rotate free of the hub. Fortunately, the screws settled down without damaging any of the moving parts. To remedy, I reassembled using a drop of CA glue to secure the three lugs - then back on the road!

[tymill]

Good thing the screws didn't foul the sprockets! Got out lucky this time...
All good!

[DCM]

no threadlock?

[jimmy]

haha, that exact thing happened to me also and the screws ended up in the same place. I think I built it and took photos - forgetting totally to threadlock it. No damage tho, so all is good! :lol:

[A.J. Gee]

I once again have another problem. I am not sure if it is with the diff or slipper clutch. I just received a new diff pulley and rebuilt the diff with new silicone diff balls. Upon acceleration there is a high pitch noise coming from the drivetrain. It does not make the noise when the wheels are off the ground. I hope this issue has nothing to do with my newly built diff. i am hoping that it may be my slipper pads that need replacement. Do any of you guys have any thoughts or advice on my issue? i am getting very frusterated with some of the problems i have been having as of late regarding the diff. Somebody please help. :eh?:

[jimmy]

I never change slipper pads, well, ok maybe once a year if they look really bad and covered in dirt - and even then, only maybe :lol:.

The best way to test the drivetrain is to get the spur with the rear wheels locked down on your lap (elbows on top if needed) - obviously on the Durga this isn't as easy since you have to remove the top cover to do it, but it's the best way. spin the spur round with your thumb and see what's slipping that way as it'll do a lot less damage than grabbing the throttle. if the layshaft is moving with the spur then the diff is slipping - if it isn't then it's the slipper. Slipper noise is nothing to worry about, but you never want to hear the diff scream, ever.

[A.J. Gee]

tHANKS FOR YOUR HELP AS ALWAYS jIMBO, BUT I DISCOVERED WHAT MY PROBLEM IS. IT HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH MY DIFF OR SLIPPER CLUTCH, BUT RATHER WITH MY ESC/MOTOR COMBO. I AM RUNNING THE NEW ORION VORTEX 5.5 RACE WITH A MAMBA ESC. BAD IDEA. THE PROBLEM IS TERRIBLE COGGING AND STUTTERING DURING START UP. FOR SOME REASON I THOUGHT THE TERRIBLE NOISE WAS COMING FROM THE DIFF. WELL LOOKS LIKE I WAS WRONG. GLAD I DISCOVERED THE PROBLEM BUT NOT HAPPY THAT I AM STUCK WITH A NEW MOTOR THAT I HAVE NO USE FOR NOW. I AM NOT ABOUT TO GO PURCHASE A NEW ESC FOR THIS MOTOR AS I DONT REALLY CARE MUCH ABOUT THE QUALITY OF THE MOTOR. I TOOK IT APART AND INSPECTED STUFF. IT JUST SEEMS CHEAPLY MADE. I AM QUITE DISAPOINTED AT THE MOMENT. JUST AS I GET THE PARTS TODAY FOR MY DIFF I NOW COME ACROSS THIS NEW PROBLEM. WHAT A BITCH I TELL YOU. NO FUN FOR ME UNTIL I COME UP WITH A PLAN TO RESOLVE MY SITUATION.

[DCM]

the Vortex is an awesome motor dude, I run one in the DB-01.... but they are all mas manufactured, so none will be 'pretty' inside.

[A.J. Gee]

I'm just hoping i can get rid of it for a similar price that i paid for it. Like i said the thing is brand new. I would put it on here in the classified section but it seems that a large majority of the members are from outside the states. Oh well, looks like it will be going on RCU any day now. :p

[josh_smaxx]

The orion motors are the best motors available, when mine broke rich lowes said it was the first he had ever seen fail and i had been running it very hard for over 9 months. Its seriously worth keeping till you can get a new ESC (losi one maybe) because its a race legal motor if you ever wanted to race in big events.

[Robbiejuk]

I will back Josh up on this. I have run a vorex 6.5 since they were released sometimes 3 times a week, in 2wd 4wd and my touring car and it has never missed a beat, been completely reliable and never let me down.

Antnee who regularily frequents this thread used to run a vortex with a mamba and it did exactly the same thing, cogged terribly made an awful noise and it finally died a while back for no reason I could see. Personally I think it was the speedo that caused it to die, I am not a big fan of the Mamba Speedos at all, they seem over complicated and only seem to work well with their own motors. I would suggest trading that in over the motor in my personal opinion.

[DCM]

it is cause the mamba is designed to be specifically used with a sensorless motor, and better still, the Castle Creations motors.

[A.J. Gee]

I know its probably a good motor performance wise, but like i said running it with the mamba is not good news at all. The noise it was making while installed and put on the ground was real loud. I thought i busted something in my drivetrain. Got me a lil nervous until i realized it was just the motor. Maybe i will keep it until i get a proper ESC for it. I just can't spend anymore money at the moment as i have already spent enough as of late. The funny thing is that Orion claims these motors will work with both sensored and sensorless speedos. I called them today and they said to call back on tuesday so i can talk to the guy that is in charge.

[psuar]

A.J. Gee (http://www.oople.com/forums/member.php?u=2034)

I had the same problem with a Mamba max and Vortex. But there is no solution, you have to purchase a new Castkle motor or a new speed control with sensor.
I recommnd you to get the Mamba 6900 motor and keep your Mamba max speed control. Castle creations controls can be programed via USB and there is nothing compared to that in the market.

cheers!

[josh_smaxx]

Same happened to me with the orion and mamba, its luck of the draw who's works and who's doesnt. Keep the motor, put it somewhere till you get the funds for a new speedo, it'll be worth it.

Psuar, actually the new Losi Xceleron S system comes close, that can also be programmed via USB and also comes with a little programming card so you can do it trackside, similar to one of the speed passion ESC's.

[millzy]

Same happened to me with the orion and mamba, its luck of the draw who's works and who's doesnt. Keep the motor, put it somewhere till you get the funds for a new speedo, it'll be worth it.

Psuar, actually the new Losi Xceleron S system comes close, that can also be programmed via USB and also comes with a little programming card so you can do it trackside, similar to one of the speed passion ESC's.

The orion motor dose work well in the Durga my only issue with the motor is the timing screws will not tighen down with out pulling the endbell anti clockwise- if you get a Tekin speedo you can change the timming via a lap top.

my only issue with the car is the wheels and the wheelbase
bit shocked to see you can only have short or long wheelbase settings and the shim is only 0.06 and also the Tamiya front wheels are a little random some have deeper hexs and some have a lot of burs in the hex its self

apart from that for a cheap car it works very well and handles national tracks better than some pricey cards ive had

[stefke]

Now the Lipo era has come, I wanted to try my Lipo'ed TRF501X against a Lipo'ed DB01. (started a thread about this here : http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11867).

So I went along and order a Durga with the following Hopups :

DB01 Slipper set
DB01 Front one way set
Eccentric belt tensioner - TRF501X
Suspension Ball 8pcs - Fluorine Coated
DB01 Carbon Reinforced - A-parts (Diff Cover)
DB01 Carbon Reinforced - D-parts (Caster Block)
DB01 Carbon Reinforced - L-parts (Steering Arm)
DB01 Carbon Reinforced - M-parts (Damper Stay)
DB01 Carbon Fiber Reinforce - Chassis
DB01 motor heat sink
DB01 Champ Ti screw set

I will also use spare TRF shocks, steel outdrives and ceramic diff balls i already had for my TRF501X

I choose not to order the new alu suspension mounts since carbon items are included in de carbon reinforced parts.

My question : have I missed something to make my future DB01 race-ready ?

[sosidge]

UJs would be nice. And I would go for a steel screw set rather than Ti.

[stefke]

Fortgot to mention : I'll also be using spare UJ from the 501.

[gargadud]

Sorry for the silly question...

but what does UJ stand for?

a french speaking beginner :blush:

[cjm_2008]

pas de probleme :)

UJ = Universal Joint.

a cleverly engineered device which allows a turning force to be efficiently transmitted through a flexible joint. jump on wiki!

[gargadud]

Merci beaucoup :thumbsup:

is it the same as the CVDs ?

[sparrow.2]

Merci beaucoup :thumbsup:

is it the same as the CVDs ?

CVD stands for Constant Velocity Driveshaft and is technically different to a UJ. MIP driveshafts are the CVD type.

UJ
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/b/b5/Universal_joint.gif/180px-Universal_joint.gif

CVD
http://aedownloads.com/downloads/item_photos/7383.jpg

Si tu veux, je peut te l'expliquer en ortographie terrible en francais ;)

[gargadud]

Merci mais comme disait Napoléon "un bon dessin vaut mieux qu'un long discours ":)

Thanks to you my technical english made a quantum leap :thumbsup:

[Spoolio]

Now the Lipo era has come, I wanted to try my Lipo'ed TRF501X against a Lipo'ed DB01. (started a thread about this here : http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11867).

So I went along and order a Durga with the following Hopups :

DB01 Slipper set
DB01 Front one way set
Eccentric belt tensioner - TRF501X
Suspension Ball 8pcs - Fluorine Coated
DB01 Carbon Reinforced - A-parts (Diff Cover)
DB01 Carbon Reinforced - D-parts (Caster Block)
DB01 Carbon Reinforced - L-parts (Steering Arm)
DB01 Carbon Reinforced - M-parts (Damper Stay)
DB01 Carbon Fiber Reinforce - Chassis
DB01 motor heat sink
DB01 Champ Ti screw set

I will also use spare TRF shocks, steel outdrives and ceramic diff balls i already had for my TRF501X

I choose not to order the new alu suspension mounts since carbon items are included in de carbon reinforced parts.

My question : have I missed something to make my future DB01 race-ready ?

I'd be very interested to know what you think of the carbon chassis. I am thinking of building up a new Durga to the same spec for the forthcoming Worksop indoor series starting in the autumn. I've kinda lost interest over the summer as I've had other things to do but I fancy throwing a new car together soon.

[stefke]

I'd be very interested to know what you think of the carbon chassis. I am thinking of building up a new Durga to the same spec for the forthcoming Worksop indoor series starting in the autumn. I've kinda lost interest over the summer as I've had other things to do but I fancy throwing a new car together soon.

I'll let you know, but according to everything i've read here, I'm not going to have fun building it. :D

[B44&501xRacerEX]

Does the durga come with universals? Or the standard tamiya dob-bones.

[gargadud]

comes with standard dog-bones :(

[A.J. Gee]

Whats up with the prices on the Tamiya website. Everything has gone up in price by a considerable amount. They have the Durga/baldre listed for $339.00 This is crazy. I dont know if there is a price glitch on the site or what. Check it out if you have a minute.:mad:

[peetbee]

TamiyaUSA.com? If yes then I see them it as $339 too. How much were they before?

Also, question time for anyone that's run a set of AE B4 shocks on the DB01.

Can you suggest a suitable starting point for oil and springs, mainly grass and astro tracks?
Are the TRF shocks that different?
How did you fix the shocks to the standard towers?

Thanks

[Toonz]

question here....
what is a good esc for a sport tuned motor?

i have a budget so i don't want to spend too much....

any recommendation?

thanks guys :)

[DCM]

TamiyaUSA.com? If yes then I see them it as $339 too. How much were they before?

Also, question time for anyone that's run a set of AE B4 shocks on the DB01.

Can you suggest a suitable starting point for oil and springs, mainly grass and astro tracks?
Are the TRF shocks that different?
How did you fix the shocks to the standard towers?

Thanks

Pete, take them off the B4 (35wt front 30wt rear and the stock pistons) and go from there.... maybe go from the green to the silver front.

[peetbee]

Pete, take them off the B4 (35wt front 30wt rear and the stock pistons) and go from there.... maybe go from the green to the silver front.
Thanks Steve, just use the bolts etc off the B4 too then?





erm, I may have a bodyshell that needs painting soon ;)

[DCM]

better to use a metric screw and nut but use the AE stand-offs.

[TRF_AK]

TamiyaUSA.com? If yes then I see them it as $339 too. How much were they before?
Regarding the price increase, yes we did raise our prices last week by 15% due to the poor state of the economy in the U.S. more specifically the value of the U.S. Dollar, we really did not have a choice.

[DCM]

what a bummer, that means you could be losing more sales to Asia then? As for the UK support of cars, it is laughable.

[peetbee]

what a bummer, that means you could be losing more sales to Asia then? As for the UK support of cars, it is laughable.
What support? ;)

[DCM]

I can't even get a diff pulley in the UK at the moment grrrrr

[TRF_AK]

what a bummer, that means you could be losing more sales to Asia then? As for the UK support of cars, it is laughable.
Unforunately we have nothing to do with the UK support or the Asian market either as each area is treated almost as its own entity. That means that a lot of what happens for parts ordering and support is dictated by what the people in charge of that region feel is needed.

The Asian market has always been the priority of Tamiya much the same as America is the priority of a company like Ford, and Germany is of a company like Audi. Sales in the Asian market will always be considerably higher than other areas.

[A.J. Gee]

Regarding the price increase, yes we did raise our prices last week by 15% due to the poor state of the economy in the U.S. more specifically the value of the U.S. Dollar, we really did not have a choice.

Wow are you kidding me? This is ridiculous. It looks like i wont be ordering any parts from Tamiya U.S.A. I am very sorry to say, but you guy's have lost a customer. I already thought your prices were a lil steep but now with the %15 increase there is no way I can afford to buy from you guys. Will the asian market be staying the same? If not then it looks like i will have no choice but to switch brands. This is all very disapointing news to me.:thumbdown:

[stefke]

Even with a 15% increase, you guys in the US musn't complain about RC prices. Why do you think we in europe were ordering in the US even when the $ wasn't so weak compaired to the euro or the £.
And you have support from Tamiya USA. Tamiya support in the europe (not only in the UK) is laughable at best.

[A.J. Gee]

Even with a 15% increase, you guys in the US musn't complain about RC prices. Why do you think we in europe were ordering in the US even when the $ wasn't so weak compaired to the euro or the £.
And you have support from Tamiya USA. Tamiya support in the europe (not only in the UK) is laughable at best.

Yeah i understand that you guys have it worse, but when you get used to paying certain prices and then one day they suddenly shoot up %15 it is quite a shocker. It's too bad the U.S. economy is headed for the shit hole. Tamiya USA are only hurting themselves by the price hike because it now forces people like myself to shop the asian market. Luckily i stocked up on 3 diff pulleys before this all happened.

[DCM]

I just wish Tamiya USA would sell overseas.... but you got to like Tamiya USA, they are actively involved in the racing scene and support all the cars, Hobby Co (UK Importer) brought in 10 501X's, and no spares....

[A.J. Gee]

I just wish Tamiya USA would sell overseas.... but you got to like Tamiya USA, they are actively involved in the racing scene and support all the cars, Hobby Co (UK Importer) brought in 10 501X's, and no spares....

HaHa what a joke. They export 10 racing buggies to you guys over in the UK, but provide no parts support. What do they expect, nothing on the vehicles to go wrong. That is bad business if you ask me. I love Tamiya but they definitley have some issues that need to be worked out. It kills me that if you have one of their r/c vehicles that is a few years old and need parts for it, you have to go on a huge search for it and then you end up paying double the price of the original cost. It's almost as if they consider their vehicles that are a few years old vintage.

[DCM]

they have made a market for 'sort after' models though, and thats a good business practice for them.

As for the UK, if it is a TRF car, don't bother trying to get parts in the UK.

[A.J. Gee]

I was wondering what some of you guys would think to be a good tool for cutting out the air vents in the Durga shell? I will eventually place pieces of screen over the vents once i have them cut out. I was thinking about using my lexan scissors, but any other suggestions would be appreciated.

[DCM]

I use a body reamer and put holes in it rather than cutting it fully out, otherwise, a dremmel?

[A.J. Gee]

Thats a good idea my friend. i will give that a try and let you know how it works out. Thanks.:thumbsup:

[ralphee]

Yup, body ream a hole to start off, then "slot" it with a small Dremel grind tool, i will run my DB01 one day, at the minute is just sitting slowly being hopped up LOL, still the Jon Miller shell makes it look pretty on the shelf for now!

lee

[gargadud]

For those interested, we manage to fit the Trakpower 4800 saddle packs in the Durga !
It was not an easy fit given the height of the packs…
We had to build a kind of "booster seat" for the carbon battery holder using the leftover of the carbon reinforced hop up parts with the aluminium screw on the top and another screw at the bottom.
In addition, we welded a new set of cables with 90deg cable/connectors to reduce the height. Without it the body could not fit.

A lot of work just for a new battery, but the result is amazing! The next mod is a pair of wings for the Durga :lol:

[TRF_AK]

Yeah i understand that you guys have it worse, but when you get used to paying certain prices and then one day they suddenly shoot up %15 it is quite a shocker. It's too bad the U.S. economy is headed for the shit hole. Tamiya USA are only hurting themselves by the price hike because it now forces people like myself to shop the asian market. Luckily i stocked up on 3 diff pulleys before this all happened.
While I understand your frustration with the price inscrease, I can tell you the stance of Tamiya USA is that our website always has the highest prices in the USA and we will tell you that via email or over the phone. We always suggest people look at all other options, such as online or local hobby stores, before buying from us. We will always charge full MSRP for our kits and parts because we are not setup to be a full fledged store, but rather a support system if you cannot find the parts in other places. We do not want to cannibalize sales of our stores.

The price increase is also something that was not USA's decision. We are a branch of Japan, and they dictate what our prices will be. Unfortunately, the system works in the way where a lot is out of our control in areas such as pricing.

Sorry for getting off topic, but let's get back to the thread at hand. if anyone has any further questions, please feel free to PM me rather than posting here.

SORRY ABOUT THE HI-JACKING JIMMY!!!!!

[DCM]

thats a cool explanation, and I for one can fully understand why you NEED to be seen to sell at MSRP and not discount it, as then that makes it harder for the stores to sell!

Can you sell to the UK though.... pleeeeeeeeeeeeease??

[A.J. Gee]

Yup, body ream a hole to start off, then "slot" it with a small Dremel grind tool, i will run my DB01 one day, at the minute is just sitting slowly being hopped up LOL, still the Jon Miller shell makes it look pretty on the shelf for now!

lee

What gear are you running in your DB-01 Ralphee? And can we get some pics please?

[Toonz]

guys, can you recommend an esc that's suitable for racing?

is nosram good?

[sparrow.2]

guys, can you recommend an esc that's suitable for racing?

is nosram good?

Nosram is fine, as is LRP, Novak, Speed Passion, Losi etc.

Interesting ones at the moment are the Losi Excelorin sensored and the Speed Passion GT1.1 LPF. Several people here have used the Losi system and liked it. I used the Speed Passion at the last race I went to and it's great, didn't miss a beat, has lots of adjustments without being difficult and just does it's thing very nicely at a very competitive price.

[Toonz]

thanks and what about Keyence ExStraight? are they any good? :)

[ralphee]

What gear are you running in your DB-01 Ralphee? And can we get some pics please?


LOL im way behind the times AJ, Hara twister on a 19t Checkpoint lol, i will go brushless once i find the time to really get back to racing TBH bud, but im trying to source a decent 1/18 right now too, so that will eat my cash lol.
Bagged one of those nice Bluebird MG servos Jimmy used in the TRF501 review too, other than that, its built with TI screws, one way fitted, along with a slipper, 3 racing towers and TRF shock set and UJ's all round.

Ill take a snap or two soon, just to show of Jon's work on the Satoshi replica shell, its a killer!

lee

[sparrow.2]

thanks and what about Keyence ExStraight? are they any good? :)

Get yourself a brushless system. Less maintenance to do and it will last you longer.

[mog ruith]

Nosram is fine, as is LRP, Novak, Speed Passion, Losi etc.

Interesting ones at the moment are the Losi Excelorin sensored and the Speed Passion GT1.1 LPF. Several people here have used the Losi system and liked it. I used the Speed Passion at the last race I went to and it's great, didn't miss a beat, has lots of adjustments without being difficult and just does it's thing very nicely at a very competitive price.

did you run the sp gt speedo or the exige??
does anyone knows how good does the exige performs??

[NitroStar]

Is it just me or does the Losi Excelorin look EXACTLY like a Novak GTB painted blue & black?

[sparrow.2]

did you run the sp gt speedo or the exige??
does anyone knows how good does the exige performs??

Don't bother with the exige, the LPF is far better value for money and gives you a better range of usefull adjustments. I used an LPF with a Lipo and a 5.5T motor and it performed and didn't even get warm with the fan on. Without the fan it was still about 10°C way away from thermalling.

[D3mentor]

Hi Guys, ive just got back into rc car scene with a Durga after too long away; so long infact my last car was a Boomerang if anyone remembers it :thumbsup:
And im looking for some help from you ultra knowledgable people about a little steering problem I have. Basically the car seem to steer to the left all the time, ive set the steering arms exactly as said in the manual and played around with the trim alot but that just send the steering off the otherway too much and never in the centre. One of my friends said it may be the servo not set correctly but i've taken the arms off them and it seems completely central to me. Has anyone got any ideas what i need to do im completely at loss with this :(

[sparrow.2]

Hi Guys, ive just got back into rc car scene with a Durga after too long away; so long infact my last car was a Boomerang if anyone remembers it :thumbsup:
And im looking for some help from you ultra knowledgable people about a little steering problem I have. Basically the car seem to steer to the left all the time, ive set the steering arms exactly as said in the manual and played around with the trim alot but that just send the steering off the otherway too much and never in the centre. One of my friends said it may be the servo not set correctly but i've taken the arms off them and it seems completely central to me. Has anyone got any ideas what i need to do im completely at loss with this :(

Could it be you have massive binding in your steering? If it doesn't move freely it will center badly. Have you checked that your wheels are on tight and the hexes are still fixed with the little pins? If not you would have 3-wheel drive and it would dart off in that direction too... :)

[Toonz]

Get yourself a brushless system. Less maintenance to do and it will last you longer.

unfortunately i can't use a brushless because the TAC race allows only the use of sport tuned motor. that's the reason why i'm looking for an esc good enough for racing....

[sparrow.2]

unfortunately i can't use a brushless because the TAC race allows only the use of sport tuned motor. that's the reason why i'm looking for an esc good enough for racing....

In that case look around for a secondhand LRP quantum or so. They are totally microscopic. Otherwise the Speed Passion LPF also does brushed, which might be a little more "futureproof"...

[mog ruith]

Don't bother with the exige, the LPF is far better value for money and gives you a better range of usefull adjustments. I used an LPF with a Lipo and a 5.5T motor and it performed and didn't even get warm with the fan on. Without the fan it was still about 10°C way away from thermalling.

lpf? what esc is that? i know of the sp gt and only the exige

[sparrow.2]

lpf? what esc is that? i know of the sp gt and only the exige

Well then look here --> http://www.speedpassion.net/

[millzy]

its the low profile one

[mog ruith]

Well then look here --> http://www.speedpassion.net/

thanks for the link now i know whats the lpf esc is :thumbsup:
anyway why does it states speed passionX hobbywing?? anything related?
and has anyone used a hobbywing esc before? care to comment on the performance? im waiting for the yeah racing esc to be launch and depends on how it perform i may get it or else its the sidewinder :woot:

[sparrow.2]

Hobbywing is the manufacturer for Speedpassion, Venom, probably Orion when they come out and they sell stuff under their own name too.
The LPF is great! Ran the Belgian GP with it and it held up great. Very nice power delivery and zero problems all weekend running a 5.5 and lipo, which is the maximum the LPF is supposed to be able to handle and it didn't even get overly warm with the fan on.
The 7.5 which came bundled with the speedo is very nice too, great for dusty, low-grip tracks.

[DCM]

guys, can we get back to the durgaliscious please.... get a speedpassion room if you need :woot:

[A.J. Gee]

guys, can we get back to the durgaliscious please.... get a speedpassion room if you need :woot:

Yes i agree with you, but these guys have now opened my eyes to a nice looking speedo that i might buy in the future.:thumbsup: By the way DCM i have the Diff issue on my Durga all sorted out. She is now running like an official champ. Gotta love it :p

[DCM]

top man AJ, just make sure you keep an eye on it, and that it doesn't get allowed to slip and all should be well.

(speedo, take a look at the Tekin RS)

[Spoolio]

Anybody care to throw some advice my way as to what tooth pinion to start off with on a Peak Vantage 12 double? I'm gonna give brushed a shot just to see if its any more 'driveable' with my (very) limited ability. I'll be sticking with the stock 91T spur, 18T centre and 37T diff pulleys.

[DCM]

depends on the track, between 18 and 21 I would of thought, I would start with an 18

[sosidge]

I ran an Orion V2 12x1 on an 18 indoors, would maybe go one or two teeth higher on a bigger track.

[NitroStar]

I'm running an 18 on my 6.5 brushless. It's about like a 11 or 12 turn brushed motor.

[mes]

...a 5.5 and lipo, which is the maximum the LPF is supposed to be able to handle and it didn't even get overly warm with the fan on...

IIRC the limit is only given for 4wd on-road applications, i.e. touring cars.
I've got the LPF myself and can only recommend it to anyone!

[stefke]

Today I got my DB01 and some hopup goodies from RC Champ. First thing I did was compare the the Carbon reinforced chassis with the kit chassis. What I found was that despite the cutouts for the motor and the battery slots, the carbon chassis felt considerably stiffer. What was a bit strange was that despite the carbon fibres and these cutouts, the carbon chassis weighs 186g compared to 190g for the kit chassis. :confused:

building starts tonight. :)

[D3mentor]

Im seriously thinking of upgrading the stock motor in my Durga for a Losi 1/10 Xcelorin S Brushless Combo as my friend said that would make it quick enough to compete with my other friends new Nitro Truck. Heres the question as im still a newb at all this can someone explain in a bit more detail what the difference is that I would be buying from a 3.5t, 4.5t etc etc upto the 13.5t?

My other question is should I be buying a new pinion to go with the motor?

Please help im in urgent need of more speed :thumbsup:

[DCM]

I would not go for much more than a 5.5 or a 6.5 (6.5 a little slower) and yes, you will need a new pinion.

[D3mentor]

Thanks for the quick reply DCM, can you guide me in the right direction as to a good quality pinion to buy with the combo please :)

from here if poss as this is where I will be buying the combo from: http://www.dms-racing.com/

but if not here it doesnt really matter, im just trying to save on postage!

[DCM]

depends on your track, a 17 or 18 would be a good place to start, also, make sure you got the slipper set, and that back diff kept an eye on.

[D3mentor]

Yeah tell me about the Back diff pulley ive allready changed that once. My mate Budgio reckoned a 19 would be good with a 91 spur as im only gonna be using it in fields and tarmac. Theres no racing tracks were I live.

Maybe i will just go in the middle with a 18 to be on the safe side.

Also what do you mean by getting the slipper set? Im guessing that its on and nice and tight :thumbsup:

[NitroStar]

About the Durga diffs... will the all metal 501x diff halves work with the Durga? If so, what else do I need to order to replace the Durga diff halves with 501x diff halves??

Do I need:

-501x diff rings?
-any nuts or nut holders
-bolts
-springs
-washers, bearings, misc. items
-???
-???

You get my point. I want to order everything needed to do the diff halve conversion at one time.
Or point me in some direction to get a good answer.
Thanks for the info

[sim]

The diff halves are the only thing you need. The nut, bolt, spring, diff rings, balls, pulleys are all the same. :)

[NitroStar]

Thanks. When it comes time to rebuild, then I will buy the 501x halves to go back in it.


What are different ways that yall combat heat in these things. I've got a GTB/6.5 setup & now I've geared all the way down to a 13 tooth pinion & it is still getting hot. Cut the slot out above motor & cut hole above fan on GTB. Actually thermaled a few times after 6 or 7 minutes.

[Spoolio]

What are different ways that yall combat heat in these things. I've got a GTB/6.5 setup & now I've geared all the way down to a 13 tooth pinion & it is still getting hot. Cut the slot out above motor & cut hole above fan on GTB. Actually thermaled a few times after 6 or 7 minutes.

Don't know but if anyone has an answer I'd like to hear it. I've given up with my LRP 5.5 b/less as I also went as far down as a 13t pinion and on a small tight track it was getting so hot the heat transfer was starting to make the chassis feel a bit soft! Am currently rebuilding the car to use a 12 double brushed motor and I'll see if that's any better. Most people I've seen running Durga's at club level (er, all 3 of them besides mine!) have run brushed rather than brushless.

[jimmy]

I've been running a 12x2 on a 19t pinion over here in Italy, but it could maybe stand a couple more teeth on there since it's a loose track. I got the car pretty dialled, using a diff and antiroll bars for my last qualifier. I qualified 77th overall. I stuck a one way in the front for the final and the car was really hard work, I got up to 2nd for a long time but dropped to 4th on the last 2 corners. the one way didn't suit the rest of the setup by that point.

I was very much wanting to run the 501X so I could share setups with other drivers like Hupo, but chose the Durga at the last minute because of the sealed drivetrain in the dusty conditions - less maintenance meant more photos :thumbsup: