FrSky 2.4Ghz conversions - a how to

[Cardnim]

Hey all,

The FrSky hack module and receivers are now getting alot of attention - and rightly so - they are awesome! :thumbsup:
I've converted a few transmitters using them now and, like others, have had no problems.

** before I begin, some people have asked why not just use a plugin module from Corona, Spektrum,etc **
Good question. The answer is that Corona's build quality is questionable and there are enough bad reports out there that I wouldnt touch them. Spektrum are great, but you are paying for all the "module" plastic casing and electronics. At the cost of £60 upwards for a good module, vs £15 for the FrSky Hack module, its an easy decision.
Also, any module that sticks your aerial out the back of the transmitter has got to be bad design - if the transmitter falls over, it falls on the aerial housing snapping it off. Ive seen loads of these unfortunately.
And lastly, why would you want two aerials?! Even the old 40Mhz aerial is going to suck in just a bit of your new 2.4Ghz signal; and I think its better to have every little Hz of power used in controlling my car, not in bouncing off my old superflous aerial. :thumbdown:

So, here is my KO Esprit II FrSky in all its glory:
http://www.frogcdrom.com/img/ko1.jpg

So, first thing to do with your old 40Hz radio is unplug the existing module, unscrew the old aerial then carefully open up the transmitter and fully remove the aerial.
N.B. watch for the battery connection cable as it will most likely be attached to the back panel of your transmitter, so when you take it off, unplug the battery connector from the daughter board it to avoid damage.


So, assuming you have got all the 40Mhz gubbins out of there, you now have a clean transmitter waiting for the new module.

First thing I do is to use my Dremel with 10mm rotary sanding drum to ream out the existing aerial hole to just over 10mm.
EDIT -- 6th March 2012 -- just fitted another 2 of these systems, and I found that there seems to be a difference in tolerances on these 2.4Ghz aerials, so actually you get a safer build if you drill out the aerial hole to 9.5mm first, then using your sanding drum and/or circular hand file, carefully ream out the hole to the required diameter. Remember, keep offering up the new aerial to ensure a nice tight fit. It may actually end up being just shy of the 10mm as one of mine was tonight.
http://www.frogcdrom.com/img/ko8.jpg

Offer up the new 2.4Ghz aerial into this reamed out hole. It should push in with a bit of force at the knurled end point. If done right, this will simply be a resistance fit and should be very secure; requiring no additional glues or adhesives.
Ensure the new aerial can bend and rotate as designed.
http://www.frogcdrom.com/img/ko3.jpg


Now, to install the actual module, first choose where you want to place it.
For this KO, I cant think of anywhere better than in the old 40Mhz module casing, so im going to choose there.

I have seen alot of people squeeze them into the top part of the transmitter where there is some empty space, but that leaves you no room for the BIND button and LED daughter board - and you'll see why I think this should go here later on.
It also is a pretty tight fit and at very best, awkward. If a component or button fails in your transmitter, fixing it is going to be much harder when you have to work around or temporarily remove your FrSky module board; or if you want to expand your new FrSky system to include telemetry or other nice things like that, you wont have the space up here to do so.

So, im sticking with it in the 40Mhz module casing.
First thing to do here is to remove the existing 40Mhz board.
Simply unscrew the 3 screws that hold it in place and gently lift away - in some cases there might be glue that needs carefully cut with a craft knife.
Stick the 40Mhz board and crystals on a classified site and make some money back :thumbsup:

Because I wanted some flexibility to upgrade at a later date, I didnt want to use hot glue to mount the FrSky module inside the case, so instead I actually went for Lee Martins excellent servo tape. Its as sticky as Sticky the stick insect on a sticky........ you get the idea :)
Holds it firmly, but can be removed later with no cutting if required.
http://www.frogcdrom.com/img/ko9.jpg

Now, thats the aerial in, and the module in place.
Next, before you solder up the connections, I think its a good idea to mount the daughter board for the BIND button and LED.

This is where loads of people disagree, but I stronlgy recommend that you drill your transmitter housing. Its a much more professional, tidy finish; and I disagree with those who say that you dont need to BIND more than once or look at the LED. Both are there for a reason.
- the BIND LED actually serves three functions.
yellow/orange = normal use, and shows that your FrSky module is 100% working
flashing red = BIND mode
solid green = "Range Check" mode

If you cant see this LED because you have buried it in the old 40Mhz casing as Ive seen some people do, then its alot more difficult to be sure whats happening - eg. are you in BIND mode or not?

Also, the BIND button is so straight forward to use that its great. Burying it inside the transmitter means this becomes much more of a task.
I dont know about you, but Ive had interference at races before, even 2.4Ghz, and 99% of the time, re-binding solves these as the TX/RX jump onto a new portion of the 2.4Ghz spectrum.
If the BIND button is hidden, this 5 second job becomes a bit more of a nuisance.

Some people have also drilled the front of their transmitters, but this puts the LED right through the nice KO Esprit name plate. Yuk! Not a nice solution.
Its just my opinion, but better to take the time and do it right.

You can see from the photos where I have placed the button. There is just a perfect amount of space in front of the aerial, and it all looks very nice and is immediately visible when needed.
http://www.frogcdrom.com/img/ko4.jpg

http://www.frogcdrom.com/img/ko5.jpg
To do this, measure the distance between the button and the LED centres, then translate this onto the desired location on your transmitter.

The button is a 3.5mm hole
The LED is a 3mm hole
Get the Dremel out and drill them nice with a smooth action to prevent chipping of the plastic.

Once drilled, offer the daughter board up to make sure they sit correctly.
Its a good idea at this point to jsut try the button. If the fit is too tight, or your hand was a bit Shakin' Stevens when drilling then the button may foul on the edge and not give a nice "click" feel.

If all is well, then we want to mount the daughter board...
Again, I used the LMR servo tape for this one. It really is that good!
But maybe you would prefer a more secure hot glue solution.
http://www.frogcdrom.com/img/ko11.jpg

With that in place, its time to solder up the main module board and we are done!
For this, you need to find the negative, the positive and the PPM rail.
On my KO Esprit II, its all very nicely provided on the left hand part of my board.
In order, from left to right, we have PPM, Positive, Negative.

I cut the wires on my FrSky module to expose about 5mm of bare wire, then tin them as normal.
Just before applying them to the board, I freshen up the solder on the board (simply heating up the PPM, +, - pins and adding a touch of new solder). Then offer up the FrSky wires and solder them on.
You shouldnt need any new solder at this point, just the heat from your iron should melt the solder that is already there and that should be plenty.
http://www.frogcdrom.com/img/ko10.jpg

After soldering these on, make sure the joints are mechanically sound (ie. give 'em a yank and if they dont come off, should be good!)

Here is our example KO, ready to go:
http://www.frogcdrom.com/img/ko7.jpg

Ensure the grey aerial wire is then screwed securely to the aerial itself; and you are done.

Good idea at this stage to power everything on and give it a test!
Bind it to your reciever and connect up a servo to test the controls. :)

If all is well, screw the transmitter back together, admire handiwork, stick on a brew and eat well earned digestive.
Proper job. :thumbsup::thumbsup:

Hope it helps.
Andrew.

[colmo]

Nice, I know there's a number of guys in UMCC (Bangor) that would pay good money to convert their beloved old KO sets.

I think I was the one that tipped you off about these modules? I have an Assan module in a Hitec CRX (which works faultlessly, but the module 'write-protects' settings on the radio, so I need to pop it out to save changes); my soldering skills would be about as effective as simply hitting the radio with a lump hammer.

The FrSky receivers and modules work out even cheaper, and they seem rock-solid. A nice bonus about receivers intended for aircraft is they tend to be very small.

[growler1]

Hi Andrew
Which frsky receiver do you use?

Cheers

[Cardnim]

Hi Andrew
Which frsky receiver do you use?

Cheers

Hey mate,
At the moment Im using their 4ch one:
http://www.giantcod.co.uk/images/V8R41.JPG
http://www.giantcod.co.uk/24ghz-frsky-receiver-p-404806.html

but in the near future Im going to mess around with adding in telemetry so will be upgrading the reciever to achieve this.

I think I am right in saying that any of the FrSky recievers work with the 2.4Ghz hack module; as long as you make sure it uses the ACCST system (Advanced Continuous Channel Shifting Technology).

[colmo]

but in the near future Im going to mess around with adding in telemetry so will be upgrading the reciever to achieve this.

A wee warning - telemetry in cars is against BRCA rules! Not that anyone at Drop Inn will give a flying fig - should be cool having an LCD screen showing readouts of exactly how much you're abusing your motor...

[Col]

Excellent thread. Made it sticky for a while:thumbsup:

[Cardnim]

Excellent thread. Made it sticky for a while:thumbsup:

Cheers chum :)
I hope it helps some people out.



EDIT TO ORIGINAL THREAD -- Everyone please note, that after converting another KO Propo Esprit II and a Sanwa Exzes tonight, I have changed my advice. I have changed the original post, and highlighted this in red.

Also, adding a bit more info as I learn it myself:
The little daughter board with the BIND button and LED seems to be different distances between the button and the led from board to board.

Ive fitted 5 of these systems now, and so far, 3 have been the same (and fitted the template Ive made for drilling) - however, tonight, I noticed that the button and LED were 1mm closer. If I had drilled the holes without checking, the end result would have looked nasty.
So my top tip is to check your measurements before drilling. I think the difference is down to the components being soldered in at an angle to the daughter board.

If I get a chance over the next few days, I will draw my template into Photoshop and post it up here for you.

HTH. :)

[Naushad]

I'm really impressed with that mod!!

Well done!

[Big paul]

Cardnim. Could you tell me if you have tried to put a ko 2.4 into a KO Esprit II .The receiver is so much smaller to go into t/cars.

[Cardnim]

Cardnim. Could you tell me if you have tried to put a ko 2.4 into a KO Esprit II .The receiver is so much smaller to go into t/cars.

Hi Paul,
No mate sorry, never used the KO 2.4 module; but like you I love the small receivers and looked at it as a possibility before choosing the FrSky. It was purely down to money - the KO system was WAAAAAAAAAY more expensive and it just didnt measure up for me.

Hope you get sorted. :)

[Big paul]

Yes mate I know what your saying.Thanks for the reply.Good thread and very informative.

[Dombrasky]

Hi
Do you know if this will work on a EX-1 Mars??

[Mike2222]

In reply to Big Paul, the ko 2.4ghz module will fit into the original 40mhz
module case. The bind button can be accessed through the xtal hole. With the aerial mounted inboard it makes a very neat job. I did a conversion on a type R which is better suited to the high response times of the ko 2.4ghz module. PM me if you need more details.
Mike

[paul kenealy]

hi
will this work in a sanwa?

[Cardnim]

Hi
Do you know if this will work on a EX-1 Mars??
Hi mate, dont know if it will work on a EX-1 Mars.
The criteria is that it must be a PPM system (Pulse Position Modulation). If it is then I guess it will work fine.

hi
will this work in a sanwa?
Yes mate, I have converted a Sanwa Exzes with this system. Works jsut as well as with the other makes. :)

[Cardnim]

Cardnim. Could you tell me if you have tried to put a ko 2.4 into a KO Esprit II .The receiver is so much smaller to go into t/cars.


In reply to Big Paul, the ko 2.4ghz module will fit into the original 40mhz
module case. The bind button can be accessed through the xtal hole. With the aerial mounted inboard it makes a very neat job. I did a conversion on a type R which is better suited to the high response times of the ko 2.4ghz module. PM me if you need more details.
Mike

Are you sure Mike? Paul was asking about the Esprit II, which has the small "plug in" style module that goes right inside the radio, not like the Esprit III and later transmitters which the module plugs into the back and is exposed.
Can the KO 2.4 module really fit inside the 40Mhz Esprit II case?

[Col]

I know nothing about KO radio's except that Mike has an Esprit II type R. That probably clears up absolutely nothing...

[pugboy]

Very well written thread - what oOple should be all about - great to see:thumbsup:

[Cardnim]

I know nothing about KO radio's except that Mike has an Esprit II type R. That probably clears up absolutely nothing...

Col - inspired as ever mate :drool::lol:

Very well written thread - what oOple should be all about - great to see:thumbsup:

Thanks chum, thats a nice compliment. :wub
And you are right, so Im sure my huge cheque is in the post from Jimmy - after all, I only did it for the money :thumbsup:

[Mike2222]

The type r I converted with the ko 2.4ghz module was used successfully at the 2011 Winter Open held in Dublin, by Tom Cockerill. He prefered the Esprit 2 handset to the esprit 3.
Mike

[Mike2222]

I dont have the tx at hand to photograph, but I got the connection info from a link in a 2009 thread on this subject on oople.
http://www.freewebs.com/nrccctest/koconversion.pdf
This was actally a spectrum module conversion but the pin connectors are the same as a ko module. Hope this helps. I dont actually solder to the modules direct, but solder to pin connectors and just plug in.
Mike

[peetbee]

Hmm, would this work in a KO Esprit 1?:confused:

[Cardnim]

Hmm, would this work in a KO Esprit 1?:confused:

Hey Pete, hows them imperial drivers working out? :lol:

No idea if this would work on an Esprit 1 - ive never seen one to know how they work, and cant even find them on Internet!?
Only thing I could find was this on the KO America website:
Q. Can I use an Esprit module with Vantage Esprit II?
A. No. If you use Esprit module, the RF output becomes low and it could lead to a problem.

not sure where that leaves us?

[peetbee]

Hey Pete, hows them imperial drivers working out? :lol:
:D I'll have to ask the postie that!

Yeah, I couldn't see any info online either, guess that trying it would be the only way to find out. I'll have to take the case off and see how the wiring compares to your photos

[Legacy555]

Hmm, would this work in a KO Esprit 1?:confused:

Yes, modules are the same.

[mardaveracer]

hi has anyone tried this in a hitec eclipse pro car or say if this will fit right in were the 40mhz module fits at the back of handset
http://www.giantcod.co.uk/24ghz-communication-system-module-only-p-405723.html

[colmo]

hi has anyone tried this in a hitec eclipse pro car or say if this will fit right in were the 40mhz module fits at the back of handset
http://www.giantcod.co.uk/24ghz-communication-system-module-only-p-405723.html

Any Futaba module, air or surface, should work in the Hitec Eclipse, which is the stick version of my Hitec CRX - see my earlier comment about it (http://www.oople.com/forums/showpost.php?p=628803&postcount=2).

[mardaveracer]

thanks i think i will get one and try it :thumbsup:

[sheddy]

Have just put one of these in a KO esprit 3, Works great, range is more than i will ever need. Very impressed and thanks Cardnim for all your help.

[john333]

My Futaba 3VC conversion also works great. Fantastic system

[Swalls]

Thanks to all the info on here and Cardnim's awesome walk through I've done this to my old Esprit 2 Type R. Only tried it in the flat so far, but always binds up in an instant and is pretty darn simple.

I'll await for some track testing, but it would be surprised if this doesn't kick the arse off my esprit 3. The universe is always failing in some way or other. How amazing is it that I can get my preferred tranny, in 2.4gig and at such an insane price? Awesome.

[peetbee]

Yes, modules are the same.
Woo hoo!:thumbsup:

now I need to find out how to do the conversion to a sanwa gemini 2!

[JCJC]

now I need to find out how to do the conversion to a sanwa gemini 2!

This may help, cannot remember where I found it, an American site, and have not done my Gemini yet, do have the bits and have the back off the tranny, looks much the same. Usuall disclaimers......

Will be interested to see where you put the binding button & aerial.

[peetbee]

Cheers JCJC:D
Is a friends, so will see what he can come up with

[Swalls]

Track tested, awesome!

[RICHARD OXLEY]

will any of the frsky modules fit the ko universe 3 tx.

[sheddy]

I have one fitted in my KO esprit 3, used at two meetings now and works perfectly.

[qatmix]

Have you fitted the internal pack of your esprit3? Or do they make an external one that just clips in?

[tjf]

Just fitted this to my KO using these instructions and really pleased.

Thank you for a great thread

[andys]

Great post :)
Anywhere other than Cod sell these things - they are out of stock :(

[MarkLeeds]

http://www.t9hobbysport.com/item.asp?catid=101&subcatid=215&prodid=841

They have plenty in stock, went to their shop to collect one the other day as they are just around the corner from me, good guys, really helpfull, mainly glider stuff but plenty of receivers :-)

[daves2111s]

Just bought the last Hack module at the weekend.
Should arrive tomorrow with two receivers :drool:
One for the DEX410V3 and one for the B44.1
Hoping the small receiver will actually fit in the Durango at last!
Can't wait to convert the Esprit II much prefer it to the newer stuff.

[john333]

Giant cod still have some in :-)

[jaysllim]

just bought a ko cantage 2 nd read this guide nd feel I really wana do the conversion,but can n e one point me in the right way as to wa I need to buy as iv been lookin on ebay and got so confused with all the frsky stuff.

So HELP!!lol

[cornishboy176]

just bought a ko cantage 2 nd read this guide nd feel I really wana do the conversion,but can n e one point me in the right way as to wa I need to buy as iv been lookin on ebay and got so confused with all the frsky stuff.

So HELP!!lol

This is all you need,i have recently done it and it works brilliantly :thumbsup::thumbsup:

http://www.t9hobbysport.com/item.asp?catid=106&subcatid=183&prodid=587

http://www.t9hobbysport.com/item.asp?catid=101&subcatid=189&prodid=592

[ballbag]

Have you fitted the internal pack of your esprit3? Or do they make an external one that just clips in?
i to would like to know this :)

[Yadayada]

So wish I'd seen this before buying a KO E 3 , I really really really prefer the feel of the previous KO E 2 in my hands.

[stulec52]

I have 2 converted Espirit2s and a standard one I have to run on 27FM.
LOVE those transmitters, but my newest one is over 10 years old now, so I picked up a Espirit3 this week. It's going to be hard to make the swap after all these years !

And thanks for the guide, I did my 2 a little differently, so it was nice to see how others did it. I agree about the daughter board spacings being different, I found also the leds were soldered in at different angles which threw out the hole positioning somewhat.

[tjf]

If anyone is looking for an already converted handset and receiver I have one for sale as I have just bought a new handset

[tdi250]

Hi, I have a Futaba 3GR 40Mhz synthesizer, does anyone know if i can convert this to 2.4??

[andys]

Just done my Ko Type R - easy job thanks to the OP's great guide :)

Has anyone done an old Sanwa Gemini II stick set ?

[Scheuee]

Hello mike, how much is the 2.4 module etc as I have a type r at the moment and would love to make it a 2.4
Thanks
Steve

[Dyna]

After a full day of intermittent glitches to undriveable interference on 40 mhz in our regional yesterday, ive decided to take the plunge and have just brought a hack module and a couple of recivers.

Will be fitting to my faithful Sanwa Gemini 2, ill let you know how it goes when i convert it next week.

[DCM]

Dam it Mike, that means I will have another person out-qualifying me!!!

[danmurphy]

Are the FrSky receivers compatible with the KO 2.4Ghz modules?

[jaysllim]

Ran my esprite for first yesterday at our regional nd cant fault it had so mu more feel to it.

[danmurphy]

Are the FrSky receivers compatible with the KO 2.4Ghz modules?

Maybe I'll buy one and find out, £22 is a fair bit cheaper than £70+ for a ko receiver :thumbsup:

[Dyna]

Crikey that was quick - ordered at yesterday afternoon here by 10.30am today !

A few people seem to want to know if it works with the trusty old Gemini 2, ill see if i have time tonight or tomorrow night to convert it.

[jamiew]

Same hear ordered Sunday night here this morning first thing gonna convert my ko type r tonite.:thumbsup:

[jamiew]

And done what a easy conversion with this guide hats of to u sir:D

Only thing I would like to ask when u screw the antena onto the wire is the part at the bottom of the antena just a push fit??

As it came of when I was screwing the wire from the hack module.

[Dyna]

Just doing the Gemini 2 conversion now, and i have to say atm its easy. Bit of dremmeling required, but nothing too major - the hardest bit is not breaking through plastic on the ariel section. If it all goes well it will look factory - theres even a nice empty space for the button & LED above the throttle stick :)

Even the PCB picture JCJC put up on page two of this thread looks correct - although ill test it before i solder.

If it works well this could be the bargain of the 2.4 sets - a 2nd hand Gemini 2 for 20 quid, 2.4 module and reciever for another 30 quid :woot:

[danmurphy]

I have one fitted in my KO esprit 3, used at two meetings now and works perfectly.

Where did you locate the module? Looking at the dimensions of the FrSky module it looks too big to locate it in the existing module casing on the back.
Also wondering which of the 5 pins from the module connector to solder the 3 wires to?

[Moose]

the module fits very good in the module case but you should cut the blue heat shrink on both sides down an bit and you have to cut the crystal channel .
Pins are:

PPM
-
+
-
aerial

[danmurphy]

the module fits very good in the module case but you should cut the blue heat shrink on both sides down an bit and you have to cut the crystal channel .
Pins are:

PPM
-
+
-
aerial

Thanks! :thumbsup: I presume they are labelled on the board when you take the back casing off?

[Moose]

only did a EX 10 helios jet but nothing was labled

@danmurphy: Frsky is only compatible with frsky. (There is a frsky receiver for futaba though)

[danmurphy]

only did a EX 10 helios jet but nothing was labled

@danmurphy: Frsky is only compatible with frsky. (There is a frsky receiver for futaba though)

Thanks Moose.

[sheddy]

Where did you locate the module? Looking at the dimensions of the FrSky module it looks too big to locate it in the existing module casing on the back.
Also wondering which of the 5 pins from the module connector to solder the 3 wires to?

Without looking I cant remember the wire sequence but I will have a look at mine over the weekend and post some pictures, I didnt put the Frsky module in the ko module case, actually got it to fit inside the handset then sold the KO module on ebay. Have just covered the module slot with some thin carbon fibre to tidy it up.

[migsy]

if anyone has done a sanwa gemini 2 40mhz to a 2.4ghz, please show some pics of the out lay so i get an idea of how to go about it.

cheers..Alan:)

[ianholt]

I have the Etronix Pulse (Core-RC CR151 CODE 2.4Ghz) system and am having trouble with loosing the signal. I think it is the Rx but for the £25 to replace it and then discover it is not that! I could get the FrSky conversion with an extra Rx.
Does any body know if it can be used with the Pulse (Code) radio as it is already 2.4Ghz!
I posted a question on the Hobby King website and got this reply.....
I would recommend you check on your radio first, the main thing it needs is a PPM and power signal heading to a transmitting module. This is within the radio as three wires, but check your radio has ppm first. However this module hasn't given me any interference troubles and so far, plenty of range. All it needs is to be mounted and connected. Works great.
How would I know which is the PPM wire?
Thanks
Ian

[john333]

That I'm afraid is the million dollar question, without an occiloscope I don't know how you would find it if it's not marked. I relied on asking the question on the giant cod forum, maybe do the same?

[danmurphy]

I've just finished converting my KO Esprit 3 Universe. Fitted the module inside the main casing behind the old module housing. Easily located the 3 wires off the old interface board (they are labelled) and soldered them to the hack module

Conversion looks good, much neater without an aerial sticking out of the back :thumbsup:
I'll post some pics later when I get chance.

[danmurphy]

Original Interface board identifies PPM, + and - wires
http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/h431/danielmurphy1978/IMAG0043.jpg

3 wires removed from the board and soldered to the new hack module wiring loom
http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/h431/danielmurphy1978/IMAG0044.jpg

Shows module connector back in the main board with hack module attached
http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/h431/danielmurphy1978/IMAG0045.jpg

Bind button and LED board held in place with servo tape and wiring loom secured with makeshift lexan bracket. Aerial plate dremelled out to fit new aerial with push fit.
http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/h431/danielmurphy1978/IMAG0046.jpg

All Done and successfully binded to my bargain FRsky £12 RX! Happy days! :thumbsup:
http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/h431/danielmurphy1978/IMAG0047.jpg

[adam4308]

Could someone help me pls, iv done the frsky conversion on my ko type r, all
Works fine untill I'm about 10 meters away then it looses signal and I have nothing.

[john333]

Check that your wires and aerials are not touching any metal or carbonfibre for one thing, and that any solder joints are sound.

The other thing to check is that you are not in test mode (this is something to do with flying range checks etc) sorry cant remember how to get in and out of this. It hopefully you still have your instructions lol.

Other than that maybe faulty part? (doubtful though)

[adam4308]

Thanks John, it turns out its the ariel on the receiver that is faulty

[john333]

No worries, glad its sorted

[Moose]

I did some testing with the frsky DIY module and I am curious to know how you set up your radio using it.
I compare to the spektrum pro module and it feels much rougher on the straight, feels bit like setting the expo to the wrong side.
I did most testing with the newest VRC controller in VRC because it is just easier to switch modules and receivers than on the track.
I had the same problem using a Flysky GT3B but sorted it out slowing down the steering turn in speed very few %. Doing the same with the frsky module it helps but i had to increase much more % to get similar effect on the straight and it is too slow in the corner. I already tried the expo but no matter what I try, switching back to spektrum pro and I am instantly faster and more consistent no matter how I set the expo.
Already having a bit experience with the GT3B I can say the feeling is similar to a GT3B with an old software when latency was much higher.
I did all tests with the FrSky module in a M11. I havent compared with the old 40FM but I did when I switched to spektrum pro and back than I couldn t feeld much difference, maybe I will check that too if I get some time.
BTW: I used the pro receiver with the spektrum, did some testing with the old light grey receivers too but already sold them because they felt edgy and somehow unpredictable. Maybe edgy like the Frsky but the frsky feels much more predictable.

..sooo how do set your radio to fiy that ? I didn t try ARC jet, maybe a good solution ?

[john333]

I just wired it up, tested it and ran it in a race!

Felt great from the word go and not had any issues since, certainly haven't had to make any adjustments

[jamiew]

Same hear just soldered it in bound it to my reicever and job done:thumbsup:

[traffman]

Jamie i would have your set up over my Universe any day!

[jamiew]

Yeah a really like the older ko mate get 1 and I will convert it for u :thumbsup:

[Moose]

thx for all the replys. I will check the 40 mhz module soon to find out if it is just the spektrum pro module that feels "different" or the frsky.
And I will check it on track maybe the frsky module transmitts more agressive curves than the spektrum, That might only be noticeable in VRC as there is no servo connected that slowes down the movement.
I really like the frsky spektrum. Its better and more secure than spektrum but has much more latency on the paper and it feels like is actually has that latency. :/ (FrSky 22ms, Spektrum pro DSM 3.0 ms). Hope it is not that bad on track.
All "air" modules have highter latencies as they use more channels and frsky is mainly for air purpose.

[Cardnim]

Hey all,

Glad this post has triggered some awesome home conversions.

Looking back over the last lot of posts Ive missed, I see that some asking about Gemini 2. The FrSky system works great in these and the pin layouts shown by JCJC are spot on.

So now that you all have your spanking new (old?!) Esprit's working again and are winning races, the OP would like a drink at the oOple race.
hehehe. :p

[john333]

Hey all,

Glad this post has triggered some awesome home conversions.

Looking back over the last lot of posts Ive missed, I see that some asking about Gemini 2. The FrSky system works great in these and the pin layouts shown by JCJC are spot on.

So now that you all have your spanking new (old?!) Esprit's working again and are winning races, the OP would like a drink at the oOple race.
hehehe. :p

That's a definite mate ;-))

[Moose]

looks like the Frsky RX dont work perfect with the VRC controller. I had to put DR and EPA to max and recallibrate to smoothen it up.
And voilà it works smooth now. So nothing special, just one thing you should first look at but didnt consider this as the spektrum pro worked without it.
So if anyone uses Frsky for vrc use max EPA :)

[eddscott]

After reading this thread I did the mod this evening. Awesome to have a 2.4Ghz Type R for not alot.

So happy impressed with the mod, I'm buying another Type R to convert :)

[Crazy L]

Hi, I have a Futaba 3GR 40Mhz synthesizer, does anyone know if i can convert this to 2.4??


I'd like to know the answer to this too. anyone? It says on the front of the tranny "hrs or ppm selectable" so muchos interested.

[Crazy L]

just opened the case and the signal board has hrs and ppm one the same wire on one connection.

Now i'm no electronics whiz so wondered if this is still convertable?:thumbsup:/:thumbdown:

Just had another look, please let me know if i might be getting warm with this. on the main board in the 3GR, I have a black terminal marked "gnd" (ground/negative?) then a red one marked "vcc" (positive?) then a yellow one marked "sig" (signal).

Presuming I select "ppm" mode on the tranny, and teh frsky was hooked up to these terminals on the main board, could it work?

Getting desparate now as I'm fed up of Core units failing on me and I drive a Durango, so suffer with space lol, and dont have the luxury of being able to blow hundreds on new fancy gear.

[Crazy L]

Ok, I've found the answer to my own question. So if you're looking to do an frsky conversion on a 40 meg 3GR, best click the following link.:thumbsup:

http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?p=670157#post670157

[mattst]

http://www.rctech.net/forum/radio-electronics/474502-ko-mars-owners-2-4-hackers-step.html

I have done this mod to my ko and use ansmann recievers with no problems at all. I hope this helps.

:thumbsup:

[Hog]

Am I right in thinking the V8R4 receiver has been superseeded by a V8R4-II?

Been looking around as I'm going to fit the hack module to my KO Type R, and just want to make sure I get the right kit.

[Cardnim]

Dont think so Hog.
The "2" is a two way for telemetry.

It will work fine, but if you dont want telemetry (which I think is still BRCA illegal) then Id stick with the V8R4 and save the readies :lol:

[benl]

Awesome thread,
I am using a cheapy 2.4 tamco system at the moment and wanted to upgrade but didn't want to spend more that the cars worth on a transmitter.(also its really glitchy with my savox servo).
I really liked the look of the old KO Esprit 2's so I have bought one off of ebay and just ordered from Giant Shark:

1off Frsky 2.4Ghz Conversion ( Hack ) Module

1off Frsky V8FR-II 8 channel receiver (mainly because I liked the look of this one)

Cant' wait for it all to arrive now!

[Jamie.T]

I installed the hack module and 4 channel receiver in my futaba 3vc last week and tested it over the weekend. I'm happy to report it worked faultlessly and far outperformed my Spektrum pro module.

Our track is located near some over head cables and the Spektrum was having glitching issues despite trying different receivers and 2 different modules. The Frsky unit didn't glitch once all day..

It took me literally 20-25 mins to fit into my 3vc and bind up with the new receiver which was extremely simple. I'd recommend this system to anybody thinking of converting.

If anybody wants help or advice on fitting into a 3vc, drop me a p.m and I'll be happy to help.

[DCM]

Post install pics Jamie, so people can see where the wires go etc?! :thumbsup:

[Jamie.T]

I'll try and get some up later today Steve.

[Hog]

Dont think so Hog.
The "2" is a two way for telemetry.

It will work fine, but if you dont want telemetry (which I think is still BRCA illegal) then Id stick with the V8R4 and save the readies :lol:

Was just having a nose around on an overseas site and the V8R4 didn't seem to be listed now - only the "2" version.

Ah well - I'll order from the UK where the V8R4 is still listed.

[Cardnim]

Was just having a nose around on an overseas site and the V8R4 didn't seem to be listed now - only the "2" version.

Ah well - I'll order from the UK where the V8R4 is still listed.

Hmm, not sure why that would be.
If you go to FrSky's own site, you can see all their recievers listed and it shows which ones are "discontinued".
The V8R4 is still showing as current.

But as you say, if its the same price then why not - at least if you upgrade int he future and want to have some fun with telemetry your reciever will be ready to go!

...which reminds me, I really want to get started on a telemetry upgrade for my own FrSky models. :thumbsup:

[John_Parker]

I managed to snap off the short antenna wire on my V8R4 even before I've converted my tranny. Having pulled off the yellow goo, I can't work out which pad on the PCB the wire was soldered to. Has anyone had this problem and can tell me if it's pad 1 or 2 on my shot below (I hope it's 1, as 2 is too tiny for my eyesight/soldering iron!)

[JCJC]

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1512827

Don't know if this is helpful or true, google found it

[John_Parker]

Thanks, I feared as much - the microscopic pad 2 in my pic. Oh well, I can give it a go, it's not like they are very expensive if I mess up

[Supercoolnothing]

I've just carried out this conversion on my Type R and it works perfectly. It took me a little over an hour and a bit (mainly because I was half watching the TV at the same time) using the instructions here and if I can manage it anyone can.

[Cardnim]

using the instructions here and if I can manage it anyone can.

+1 to that! :thumbsup:

Great to hear your conversion went well mate.

[Jamie.T]

Post install pics Jamie, so people can see where the wires go etc?! :thumbsup:

Sorry for the delay, here's my guide - http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=106972

[Hog]

Was talking to 2 of my fellow FORCC members last night about this conversion to my KO Type R, and they said that instead of soldering the 3 wires to the board, that there's the option of getting a "molex" plug and soldering that to the hack module instead, so that it plugs into the main board.

This seems like a better idea to me as it saves screwing up the board if your soldering skills aren't great, and also means switching back to 40Mhz (should you encounter problems) is a much easier task.

Anyone gone this route at all? Pics? Part number from Maplins perhaps?

[Jamie.T]

I was contemplating going the same route with the molex plug, i came across that option on the giantshark forums. I believe its available from cpc and you trim off how many pins you need, but the cost of delivery was a minimum of £6 which made it a bit too expensive.

http://www.giantshark.co.uk/forum/download.php?id=2324&mode=view

[Hog]

Think I'd rather spend the £6 than risk damaging the PCB in my KO - do you have a link at all Jamie?

[Jamie.T]

Its called a wire wrap socket i believe, i entered it into ebay and a load of similar looking items came up - http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=wire+wrap+socket+&_trksid=p5197.c0.m627

[Hog]

Ta muchly Jamie.

[spotlessdragon]

i have just done this to my ko and it was easy to do and works great. i would say to anyone that this mod is well worth doing and if you are worried about the connections then dont be just take your time and it will go fine :thumbsup: you dont need to be the best at soldering anyone can do it i think:thumbsup:

[U1timate PigDog]

This is a great thread and the info is awesome, so Ive decided I'm going to do the Frsky mod quite soon but want a little feedback on the receivers available for use with the mod.

I'm not keen on the look of the one used on page 1 and wandered has anyone tried different receivers, I like the normal receiver look but would like to keep the size smallish (like the standard ko esprit one or smaller)

I wondered will this one by frsky work
http://www.t9hobbysport.com/item.asp?catid=101&subcatid=215&prodid=841

or has anyone got a good alternative thats around the same price range.

Thanks in advance and keep the mod pics rolling in.

[Cardnim]

I wondered will this one by frsky work
http://www.t9hobbysport.com/item.asp?catid=101&subcatid=215&prodid=841


Sorry no, any FrSky reciever which starts "TF" is designed for futaba compatibility (I think) - at least, it doest work with the hack module shown in this conversion.

You can choose any FrSky reciever which starts "V8".
THey are all compatible with this hack module.

Hope that helps :)

P.S. NOt sure why you dont like the small receiver shown here; fair enough. But if its because you are concerned that the cardboard reciever isnt durable, I can maybe help to assure you that it is pretty tough, light and tiny.

[U1timate PigDog]

Cheers Cardnim,

That certainly helps and will have a look to see if theres any I like lol.

I just prefer to have the servo, esc connectors face upwards and just the overall look of the other style receivers appeals to me more but if I cant find one I'll just get one of the others at this price as its unbeatable.

Thanks for the help :thumbsup:

[John_Parker]

For the TX connector, search for a SIL Pin Header 0.1"
They come in long strips - just break off 3 pins, solder and use some heat shrink

[Mby_Ax]

Well thanks to cardnim iv done this conversion with my espit II and tested and works, aint been to track yet but did a range check and when as far as my eye could see :drool: was still working.

Didnt know you could put a 2.4 system in, till i see this so thanks cardnim.

Ive mounted the things alil different, put the light and switch in the side draw and so its hidden, and the module mounted on the backing plate the arial mount!

Mitch

[Cardnim]

but did a range check and when as far as my eye could see :drool: was still working.

Gotta love that range! :lol:
Glad you got it done Mitch - none of my brains though, I just followed another guide on YouTube and decided to scribble it up here.
Good to hear it was useful though.
Happy trails!

[Hog]

Right - finally getting round to ordering the bits :blush:

Wanted to order a spare Tx aerial - which one is the right one for the V8HT hack module?

[Cardnim]

Wanted to order a spare Tx aerial - which one is the right one for the V8HT hack module?

I cant find one on the FrSky products listing, or on GiantShark.
But having had a few 2.4Ghz transmitters, the aerials all look interchangeable - but dont quote me on this!
Im guessing that any 2.4Ghz aerial will screw in and work.
Modelsport sell them for about £11 I seem to remember.

P.S. wouldnt worry about a spare though. Havent heard of any breaking yet, and if you fit it correctly it should be well out of harms way. HTH. :)

[Hog]

Okay thanks Cardnim. There did seem to be 2 that looked similar - one a 2dB and one a 5dB? Or are these totally wrong for the hack module?

Also thanks to John_Parker for the heads up on the SIL pins to replace the Molex plug. Deffo going this route rather than soldering to the PCB.

[RobW]

Hi

I converted my KO Univ 3 a few weeks ago and all good - very easy and works great.

Finally got round to taking my son's Sanwa Gemini II apart tonight to convert that and need a bit of advise as I am no electronics expert. Looked at the pic on page 2 of this thread and my Gemini II is a little different - actually has a different serial number and looks slightly different. Pic attached.

Has anyone actually converted a Gemini II and if so are the three wires as per the picture on page 2? I can see how I would solder to the 2 solder points in the picture but the bottom one just seems to be a small brown circular spot which is not attached to any other part of the board.

Does anyone have any pictures of their conversions.

Thanks

Rob

[Frecklychimp]

Hi

I converted my KO Univ 3 a few weeks ago and all good - very easy and works great.

Finally got round to taking my son's Sanwa Gemini II apart tonight to convert that and need a bit of advise as I am no electronics expert. Looked at the pic on page 2 of this thread and my Gemini II is a little different - actually has a different serial number and looks slightly different. Pic attached.

Has anyone actually converted a Gemini II and if so are the three wires as per the picture on page 2? I can see how I would solder to the 2 solder points in the picture but the bottom one just seems to be a small brown circular spot which is not attached to any other part of the board.

Does anyone have any pictures of their conversions.

Thanks

Rob

Hi Rob,

i converted a Gemini 2 and a mate has too, they were the same as in both pics...

there is no specific point for the (-) negative earth lead, just scratch the green coating off enough to make a solder point to the board (or use soldering iron to burn it off!), i did i roughly in area shown on pic on page 2 of this thread as it keeps the wires together and neat.

[RobW]

Hi Rob,

i converted a Gemini 2 and a mate has too, they were the same as in both pics...

there is no specific point for the (-) negative earth lead, just scratch the green coating off enough to make a solder point to the board (or use soldering iron to burn it off!), i did i roughly in area shown on pic on page 2 of this thread as it keeps the wires together and neat.


Thanks for that:thumbsup:, that will be tonight's job.

Cheers

Rob

[Hog]

Ordered my bits from T9 Hobbies - very helpful chap who took my order and parts arrived next day :)

Took me about 20 minutes to install the hack module in my KO Type R - would have been less but the missus was on the phone to me - such an easy install it's untrue. Didn't bother with the SIL pins as 1) I couldn't see where they went, and 2) it's so easy and obvious where to solder the hack module wires it's not worth worrying about!

Didn't need to Dremel the aerial hold as I had a stepped bodyshell reamer that just happens to be the right size. Only change I made was to hot glue the daughter board in place as I wasn't happy with the double sided tape I used initially.

The binding process seems a little vague - took a few goes with each of my 3 cars to get everything bound (probably me doing something wrong) but once bound they seem to be holding true.

Can't wait till Wednesday night now to try it out at FORCC!!

[franki]

Daft question but will any 2.4ghz reciver work with this ???

[Cardnim]

Daft question but will any 2.4ghz reciver work with this ???

Franki, do you remember me? :lol:

Sorry no, only FrSky receivers in their "V8" range will work with this hack module.

[franki]

Lol that's not been done for a long time !!!

Is this the puppy http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Frsky-V8HT-2-4GHz-hack-module-Convert-Your-35MHz-Tx-/120990147992?_trksid=p5197.m1992&_trkparms=aid%3D111000%26algo%3DREC.CURRENT%26ao%3 D1%26asc%3D14%26meid%3D2269092126593248994%26pid%3 D100015%26prg%3D1006%26rk%3D1%26sd%3D120990147992% 26

[Cardnim]

Lol that's not been done for a long time !!!

Is this the puppy http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Frsky-V8HT-2-4GHz-hack-module-Convert-Your-35MHz-Tx-/120990147992?_trksid=p5197.m1992&_trkparms=aid%3D111000%26algo%3DREC.CURRENT%26ao%3 D1%26asc%3D14%26meid%3D2269092126593248994%26pid%3 D100015%26prg%3D1006%26rk%3D1%26sd%3D120990147992% 26


lol. yeah, how old am i!! :blush:

You're spot on mate, thats the one.
If you want to buy direct from a good online store, here it is (though I suspect that this might be the same place as your eBay!?)
http://www.giantshark.co.uk/frsky-24ghz-conversion-hack-module-p-405206.html

[Kusal]

Will the Futaba FrSky module fit a Sanwa Super Exzes?

[Spencer Mulcahy]

I did this conversion the other night so easy to do the step by step instructions in this thread are top notch cheers. The only thing I did different is blue tack the daughter board in blue tack is the future lol.

[Spencer Mulcahy]

Just used this today and I must say it is amaz balls one of the best rc purchases I have ever done big thumbs up from me.

[tynhead]

I've just done the hack to my Gemini II and it's working great!
The guide and the pcb picture on page 2 are spot on.

Bought the V8 module and two receivers from http://www.giantshark.co.uk/

I took some snaps too while I was doing it to show how it looks installed. Here's the link to them...

http://photobucket.com/Sanwa_Gemini_II_FrSKY_hack_mod

For the daughter board, I wedged in a chunk of foam rubber that holds it in place (black and yellow thingy in the pic) rather than using silicone or glue. No mess and the button action is solid, no play in it at all.

Got a great tip off Mr. Chimp to dremel down the lower brass nut for the aerial, instead of opening up the existing aerial hole in the case. Fits snugly in there now and if I wanted i could return to stock (except for a couple of 3 and 3.5mm holes in the back)

Thanks to all who have contributed to this guide, top work :D

[neallewis]

I've just picked up a KO Esprit 3 Universe today with 40meg module. Has anyone done the frsky conversion and kept it just within the old module case? I've not started to look at how to convert mine yet, but I've been wondering if its possible?

[Craig W]

i was thinking of converting my jr 756x was wondering if you could convert the module

[neallewis]

Completed my newly acquired Esprit 3 Universe conversion tonight with a new module I got from t9hobbysport.com (http://www.t9hobbysport.com/item.asp?catid=115&subcatid=234&prodid=587). I removed the 40meg module, and internal module daughter-board, as per danmurphy's conversion (http://www.oople.com/forums/showpost.php?p=663178&postcount=72), and positioned my frsky module in the void, servo-taped to the back case. I soldered the three-pin connector to a shortened the module lead.
I decided not to drill anything and mount the bind module behind the dataconnector plug, as the dataconnetor is removed with the module daughter-board. I don't need this anyway, so locating the bind module in here is a really good option, held in place with hot glue. I shortened the bind module lead as well as not to have any slack.
I mounted the antenna in the regular antenna hole. Just had to trim away some of the inside plastic lip to get a straight fit.

The tranny can very easily be restored to it's original condition, removing the frsky module, and replacing the internal module daughter-board. Works perfectly and i'm really happy with how this conversion came out. It's super tidy, you wouldn't know its been done, other than the fact there is no external module on show.

Lipo conversion next!

[neallewis]

i was thinking of converting my jr 756x was wondering if you could convert the module

I think it would be possible to convert an old module, removing the innards and replacing it with an frsky. You could drill the module case for bind button/light and to have the antenna socket to allow for a removable antenna. It would be super neat and tidy.

If I manage to get a case from a broken module, then I'd happily have a go.

[Hog]

Thinking of converting both my daughter's KO radios to 2.4 (as I've done my KO Type R) but just wanted to check on a couple of things.

1 - My youngest has the older type of Esprit II handset with the battery meter at the top. Is the hack still compatable with the older KO handset?

2 - My eldest has the KO EX-1 steerwheel set. Again is this a suitable candidate for the hack? And if so - can anyone show me where to solder the 3 wires for the hack module to please?

Cheers
Dave.

[neallewis]

Thinking of converting both my daughter's KO radios to 2.4 (as I've done my KO Type R) but just wanted to check on a couple of things.

1 - My youngest has the older type of Esprit II handset with the battery meter at the top. Is the hack still compatable with the older KO handset?

2 - My eldest has the KO EX-1 steerwheel set. Again is this a suitable candidate for the hack? And if so - can anyone show me where to solder the 3 wires for the hack module to please?

Cheers
Dave.

Hi Dave,

1. I've not personally done the Esprit with the battery meter (green one), but have seen one converted, so i'm assuming its the same as the Esprit II?

2. Does the KO EX-1 take the same modules as Esprit 2/3? chances are there is a daughter board, that offers a connector to the main board. My esprit 3 was labelled up on the circuit board, so it was easy to identify the Vcc(+), sig and Gnd. Please post a photo of the insides.

[Hog]

I'll have a look inside the older Esprit later. Fingers crossed it's the same.

I only asked as originally I was using an older KO Esprit, then bought a Type R only to find it wasn't compatible with the KR297 receivers I'd been using as a 40Mhz unit, and had to switch to a more recent type of receiver. So there's obviously something different inside - but whether it affects the FrSky hack I don't know.

I'll try and get some pics up of the insides of the EX-1 later on.

Thanks for the reply.

[Arran_Turner]

Hey guys, just purchased the module and a v8r7-ii reciever for my ko propo esprit 2,
just abit curious as on the receiver there are 2 aerials that clip on and off, do i need to use both aerials or can i just get away with using the one?

thanks in advance

Arran

[benl]

Hey guys, just purchased the module and a v8r7-ii reciever for my ko propo esprit 2,
just abit curious as on the receiver there are 2 aerials that clip on and off, do i need to use both aerials or can i just get away with using the one?

thanks in advance

Arran

As far as I know one is your aerial and one is for telemetry, I'm not sure which is which but shouldn't do any harm to leave it in place. Its illegal to use at a BRCA event I think but might be fun to have a play with at a later date :)

[Arran_Turner]

Thanks mate,
I'm going to find out which is telemetry and remove it, I'm trying to do a nice clean wiring job and having 2 aerials makes it difficult, telemetry isn't something that really appeals to me.

Arran

[Alasdairmarshall]

Hi Thank you for a fantastic how to!
Is this the correct module?


http://www.giantshark.co.uk/frsky-24ghz-conversion-hack-module-p-405206.html

[davewAE]

Are there any pictures for the Sanwa Super Exez yet?

[neallewis]

Hi Thank you for a fantastic how to!
Is this the correct module?


http://www.giantshark.co.uk/frsky-24ghz-conversion-hack-module-p-405206.html

Yes that's the one.

my supplier is now saying that this module is discontinued, replaced by the DHT telemetry diy module:http://www.t9hobbysport.com/item.asp?catid=115&subcatid=234&prodid=703


It's compatible with V8R4-II receivers, not sure about the older V8R4?

[Hog]

after converting another KO Propo Esprit II and a Sanwa Exzes tonight

Cardnim - can we have a how to on the Super Exzes please?

I've got quite adept at the KO conversion now having done a few, I'm down to about 10 - 15 minutes start to finish!

But I've got a chap who's asked me to convert his Super Exzes and I'm rather stumped on where to solder the 3 wires to. It's not going to be the easiest of conversions due to lack of space, but I think I've sussed it - I just need the soldering points if you can please?

[Loheswaran]

I used to have a Spektrum DX2 and moved to a KO propos EX10 helios. I found it to be a lot smoother than the spektrum.
Is the Frsky as smooth/smoother fast/faster than a KO 40 meg radio?

[davewAE]

Cardnim - can we have a how to on the Super Exzes please?

I've got quite adept at the KO conversion now having done a few, I'm down to about 10 - 15 minutes start to finish!

But I've got a chap who's asked me to convert his Super Exzes and I'm rather stumped on where to solder the 3 wires to. It's not going to be the easiest of conversions due to lack of space, but I think I've sussed it - I just need the soldering points if you can please?

Have you got the super Exzes working yet?

[Hog]

Afraid not Dave. The OP doesn't have the paperwork for the original Exzes hack, and he doesn't have access to one at present to put the oscilloscope on either.

I have suggested to Cardnim that once the Xmas post rush is out the way, it might be an idea for me to post the tranny I have to him so he can suss it out. He did say that he's had numerous enquiries in the last few days so it seems the Exzes hack is a popular one alongside the KO conversion.

Either way - unless anyone else has converted one - I think we're going to have to wait a few weeks to get a "how to" for the Sanwa.

[davewAE]

Thanks for the info Hog, just have to wait :bored:

[Alasdairmarshall]

Hi mate. Where is the battery terminal?

[Alasdairmarshall]

:eh?:Hey mate,
At the moment Im using their 4ch one:
http://www.giantcod.co.uk/images/V8R41.JPG
http://www.giantcod.co.uk/24ghz-frsky-receiver-p-404806.html

but in the near future Im going to mess around with adding in telemetry so will be upgrading the reciever to achieve this.

I think I am right in saying that any of the FrSky recievers work with the 2.4Ghz hack module; as long as you make sure it uses the ACCST system (Advanced Continuous Channel Shifting Technology).

[SimonW]

I've just done the spektrum 2.4 conv' listed on page 2, works fine at home, track test tomorrow.

[jaywestwood]

Hi I want to do this mod to my ko handset... Can you please point me in the right direction on the parts I would need please.. Links to them would be awesome
Thanks
Jay

[Mike2222]

Read this thread from the beginning. It explains everything in detail

[Moose]

Loheswaran: AFAIK the 40 mhz is much faster than the frsky. But frsky is smooth and fast enough so nothing to worry about.

What is the problem with sanwa ? I have running a M11 with frsky. There is not much you have to know just module out and frsky in
M8 M11 etc all have the same module. The Excess should be the same if it uses the same modules. Never had a Excess or what it is called in my hands but if they use the same module they have the same pin out
The M8 has more pins on top I think but you only have to care for the bottom ones

x
x
x
aerial
-
+
+
ppm

[Hog]

Okay chaps - I have some good news on those wanting to hack a Sanwa Super Exzes......

Cardnim has very kindly offered to take a look at one of these trannies and identify where the wires need soldering to. In the next few days I'll be shipping a tranny from Kent to Ireland so Cardnim can take a look, and once he's sussed it, it'll be returned to me and I will do the hack install with a write up and pictures as Cardnim did with the original KO thread.

I won't say mine will be as good but I'll give it a go.

Cardnim's a busy chap (as am I) so please bear with us, but hopefully within a few weeks we'll have it published on here for you all.

[neallewis]

So the FrSky DIY hack module is no longer available, the replacement being this: http://www.frsky-rc.com/ShowProducts.asp?id=85 which also has telemetry.

Anyone used this new module? is the package any bigger? do anything different?

cheers

[SteveDub]

Hi Cardnim,
I have bought a Ko Propo Esprint 2 with a Frsky conversion but I have an issues with when turning on the transmitter and receiver that it sometimes does not connect up. On occasions it can connect after 1 mins.

Any idea on what the problem might be.

[jampat2004]

Hi Cardnim,
I have bought a Ko Propo Esprint 2 with a Frsky conversion but I have an issues with when turning on the transmitter and receiver that it sometimes does not connect up. On occasions it can connect after 1 mins.

Any idea on what the problem might be.
Best to send him a pm this way u guaranteed an answer

[silky]

Hi All, Has anyone else had problems when trying to use the V8R4-II with the module hack? I installed my module tonight into my 3GR and all seemed well, until I tried to bind with the V8R4-II, it simply would not bind. I double checked everything over and over and nothing worked. I then tried to bind to a friends car that has the mk1 V8R4 in and it DID bind perfect.

Do you think i have a faulty RX or have I bought the wrong one? I also tried to bind my friends car with my RX (V8R4-II) and this also failed to bind?

Thanks in advance.....

[neallewis]

I've had no problems binding two old hack modules with the newer V8R4-II rx's.

[Monkeys Punk]

Done the Hack conversion on a couple of my flying radios but has anyone used the DJT plug in modual with the Esprit III ?

[peetbee]

Finally got round to converting my esprit 2, worked a treat :)
As I wasn't confident enough to drill the case for the bind button & LED I went for a slightly different install.

The module is installed at the top of the KO behind the badges as there is plenty of space there.

The bind 'board' is installed in the old module (have removed the gubbins as in Cardnim's conversion notes.

To bind receivers now I can just open the module slightly and easily access the board which is held in place with servo tape.
The advantage of this is that you don't run the risk of drilling holes in the wrong place and the super bright LED is visible through the gaps in the case left by the module clips.

Big thanks to Cardnim for the guide, I wouldn't have had any confidence in tackling it myself and may be doing the same for someone else at club!

[Hog]

Despite mine and the OP's best efforts, we weren't able to go ahead with a how to for the Sanwa Super Exzes.

So if anyone else can step in and fill the void........??

[Ross]

Guys, does anyone know if FRSky do a module and or an RX to replace a Sanwa 442DS, a mate is looking for a new 442DS and cant not find one.

Cheers
Ross

[trickkydikky]

The hack module has been discontinued and can't find it anywhere anyone know some where who has them in stock?

[Hog]

Yes the original hack module has been replaced by the DHT version which is essentially the same but has telemetry capability.

I think Giant Shark has them in.

T9 Hobbies also showing stock of the new modules as well

[andy-aj]

The hack module has been discontinued and can't find it anywhere anyone know some where who has them in stock?


I still have a brand new 1 with reciever in the forsale section.

[RobW]

Hi All, Has anyone else had problems when trying to use the V8R4-II with the module hack? I installed my module tonight into my 3GR and all seemed well, until I tried to bind with the V8R4-II, it simply would not bind. I double checked everything over and over and nothing worked. I then tried to bind to a friends car that has the mk1 V8R4 in and it DID bind perfect.

Do you think i have a faulty RX or have I bought the wrong one? I also tried to bind my friends car with my RX (V8R4-II) and this also failed to bind?

Thanks in advance.....

Hi

Did you ever resolve this? I've been running the mk1 recivers for about 6 months now with no problems. Just bought a v2 for a new car and initially it did bind but was a little slow to connect each time I switched on car. Now it takes about 15 seconds to connect which is difficult as I want to set my speedo up and the speedo goes out of setup mode before the radio binds!!

My other car with a mk1 still works fine.

Anyone else had this?

Cheers

Rob

[RobW]

Hi

Did you ever resolve this? I've been running the mk1 recivers for about 6 months now with no problems. Just bought a v2 for a new car and initially it did bind but was a little slow to connect each time I switched on car. Now it takes about 15 seconds to connect which is difficult as I want to set my speedo up and the speedo goes out of setup mode before the radio binds!!

My other car with a mk1 still works fine.

Anyone else had this?

Cheers

Rob

After a bit of trawling through some RC plane sites I have found the solution. Thought I'd share in case anyone else had some problem.

I was trying to set car up on workbench with my transmitter next to car - within a foot or 2. Moved transmitter another couple of feet away and all problems disappeared. TX and RX bind instantly. Seems if the TX and RX are too close the signal somehow "swamps" the RX and it cannot detect it - sure there is a more technical explanation but not too bothered now I know solution.

Still don't have this issue with my Mk1 receivers but at least I can carry on using Frsky with Mk2 receivers which feel slightly more robust than the Mk1s and are still cheap as chips.:)

Cheers

Rob

[Yadayada]

I'm having issues with my KO E3 Universe 2.4ghz not "connecting". So i'm going give the FrSky a try , I've ordered the parts. I've also taken the handset apart . I'm now trying to decide where is best for the DHT Tx module Mode switch , any suggestions ?

[Adam Talbot]

friend of mine has a ko mars r,has anyone done one yet?

i gor ko 2 with it in and all works great,so glad i read this post first before buying a 300plus pound ko 3 as i still still the two is a better handset,and made with better plastics,not fudge!!

adam

[brookie]

A friend is installing the most recent DHT version in a KO Espit II and is seeking guidance!

This version:

http://www.giantshark.co.uk/frsky-24ghz-communication-system-p-405725.html

he was wondering about the toggle switch! Is it required if he's not going to use the telemetry functionality and if it is required does anybody have any (polite!) suggestions where to put it!

This version is a slightly trickier fit anyway as the telemetry plug makes the unit a little snugger in the KO module casing!

He will be using the V8R4-II receivers.

[Hog]

I've yet to fit one of the new telemetry hack modules I'm afraid Steve, so I can't really say whether the unit would still function if you removed the switch from the daughter board.

Best bet if it's not going to be used is to find a gap and hot glue it in place out the way!

I suppose you could remove the switch and see if everything still works without it - and if not - solder it back on!!

[brookie]

Thanks Dave, those are not dissimilar to our thoughts to!

Fortunately the toggle switch plugs into the daughter board so not too a tricky operation to locate somewhere out of the way!

Any other feedback would still be appreciated, ta!

[neallewis]

I've just been into T9hobbysport (http://www.t9hobbysport.com/) to buy some new modules and receivers and they told me they are now the UK agent for FrSky products. They have a new website http://www.frsky-rc.co.uk where you can order product directly, and they offer tech support and product help. Give them a try!

[naomiswanson]

This module make me confusing, Actually I don't really understand what does it mean. I think disconnecting some parts of this, would be the reason why trapped all the wire. I think the best thing you can do is to remove the toggle switch.

[neallewis]

This module make me confusing, Actually I don't really understand what does it mean. I think disconnecting some parts of this, would be the reason why trapped all the wire. I think the best thing you can do is to remove the toggle switch.

Yes just remove the toggle switch and solder it permanently in the 1-way/V8R4 compatible position. no need for the other/telemetry option here.

[Ozasis]

Hi,

I recently did thjis mod and used V8R4 receiver. Had two cars runnign with no issue. I since upgraded to V8R4 2 receiveras and headed to the track with 2 cars for the first time. To my dismay i got the occasional glitches on both cars.

This was the first time I have actually ever used 2 cars within one day. I found they bound OK but i got some glitches. Going thru rebinding when swapping cars seemed to stop it. Though it could have been luck that it just didnt happen after that.

Is it normal to be able to expect to just bind to two different ESCs easily?

Chris

[PaulRotheram]

Could someone link me to the moduale and receiver I need for the silver KO espritt (sticks) from a UK supplier? Im not sure which one I need so would be great if a link could be given :)

[neallewis]

Could someone link me to the moduale and receiver I need for the silver KO espritt (sticks) from a UK supplier? Im not sure which one I need so would be great if a link could be given :)

TX hack module: http://www.t9hobbysport.com/item.asp?catid=115&subcatid=234&prodid=703

RX: http://www.t9hobbysport.com/item.asp?catid=115&subcatid=236&prodid=1034

[PaulRotheram]

Seems that place, plus giant shark dont have the hack module in stock! Does anyone know a UK stockist who has this, or both in stock?

As i wrote this, the site added 7 new units - nice :)

[PaulRotheram]

Also it says here it is discontinued???

http://www.frsky-rc.com/ShowProducts.asp?id=31

Saw that it has been replaced with this:

http://www.t9hobbysport.com/item.asp?catid=115&subcatid=234&prodid=703

[neallewis]

Also it says here it is discontinued???

http://www.frsky-rc.com/ShowProducts.asp?id=31

Saw that it has been replaced with this:

http://www.t9hobbysport.com/item.asp?catid=115&subcatid=234&prodid=703

Yes, which is why linked to the currently available telemetry module. you use select to use it in 1-way mode, not two way(telemetry) mode.

T9 hobbysport are the Uk agents for Frsky-rc. they run this: http://www.frsky-rc.co.uk/

[PaulRotheram]

Thanks for the info!

Can other receivers on there work? the one suggested seems to be out of stock.

[mgdannyk]

just done my gemini II easy peasy :D, just follow pic on page 2

[PaulRotheram]

I've just finished up on my KO espritt II and can confirm how easy it is! Very good system, very easy to do, very much reccomended!

I'm planning to put the V8R4 receiver in to my old KO receiver box to add some protection and slightly more water resistant.

Once my wiring is complete ill post a picture up.

[neallewis]

I've just finished up on my KO espritt II and can confirm how easy it is! Very good system, very easy to do, very much reccomended!

I'm planning to put the V8R4 receiver in to my old KO receiver box to add some protection and slightly more water resistant.

Once my wiring is complete ill post a picture up.

Great stuff!

I just shrink wrapped my receivers. I've also taken the 90 degree bends out of the servo lead pins and stood them up vertically. Makes the receiver foot print far smaller and easier to use.

[PaulRotheram]

How did you go about doing that? That is something i want to do as i dislike where the wires are sitting because of how they are situated in the receiver.

[Welshy40]

Anyone got any ideas where to buy the conversion from and what receiver is needed, plus anyone got pics of a Sanwa Gemini conversion?

[Dr Fly]

Anyone got any ideas where to buy the conversion from and what receiver is needed, plus anyone got pics of a Sanwa Gemini conversion?

The module mentioned in this thread was available here

http://www.giantshark.co.uk/frsky-24ghz-conversion-hack-module-p-405206.html

However there is a link in the description saying that it would no longer be available. And you should check out the following item instead.

http://www.giantshark.co.uk/frsky-24ghz-communication-system-p-405725.html

Unfortunately at the time of writing it is showing as out of stock :mad:

As i am recently returning from a long hiatus, i have no idea how the two way link works with rules etc, or if the new module is as easy to install as the original poster mentions.

Good Luck

[JCJC]

Anyone got any ideas where to buy the conversion from and what receiver is needed, plus anyone got pics of a Sanwa Gemini conversion?
Theres a circuit board pic on page2 #33, would be nice to see pics from a oOplers conversion, including binding button/aerial etc.

[Welshy40]

Cheers, did some looking and found two in and around hong kong so bought them both. Now just hope they are really in stock and hope i get them as my Sanwa Gemini is going to get an upgrade. Cant understand the computer settings and prefer the screw driver settings on this, much simpler and easier to use.

[Welshy40]

Out of curiosity why do we have to remove the metal aerial? Why cant we just attach the connector to the bottom of the aerial.

[tynhead]

Theres a circuit board pic on page2 #33, would be nice to see pics from a oOplers conversion, including binding button/aerial etc.

Check out my post #131 on page 7 of this thread.

I put a link to my photobucket showing my Gemini II internals as I was doing it.

Hope that helps :thumbsup:

[JCJC]

Check out my post #131 on page 7 of this thread.

I put a link to my photobucket showing my Gemini II internals as I was doing it.

Hope that helps :thumbsup:

Nice work tynhead, I missed it, still to do ours . Be nice if a list of converted transmitters and url's could be included in the first post.,:cool: nudge cardnim:woot:

[Welshy40]

Bought a used modified 2.4ghz ko esprit 2 type R but wasnt done perfectly, the module was left out and the hole was taped and the aerial hole was left as standard and only half of the plastic aerial was showing. So thought may as well do a full upgrade so have changed all the screws to give it a nicer look, and had to drill out the aerial hole, like stated on page one and only issue i had was making the aerial screw into the inner connector, first attempt was good but didnt space the inner nut out to account for the gap that wasnt drilled but when i did that it fitted perfectly. Thanks for this info and pics as it really is so. simple.

Now to wait for the bits to arrive so i can do my sanwa gemini exerd.

[eddscott]

Is it possible to do the same conversion to a Esprit III ? I did it on a II no problem.

Also, I notice the new modules have a little switch - what do you do with that?

[neallewis]

Is it possible to do the same conversion to a Esprit III ? I did it on a II no problem.

Also, I notice the new modules have a little switch - what do you do with that?

Yup, the esprit 3 converts perfectly. you can hide the hack module in the space behind the module slot, if you remove the data board that't behind it. just use the three pin lead that goes to the original module pins and solder it to the new hack module and plug it into the main board. The bind daughter board sits lovely behind the data/model expansion slot on the back, just hot glue it in.

The new modules come with the 1-way/2way selection switch. Just remove this and solder the pins on the reverse side of the white 3 pin connector, to set it permanently to 1-way. You don't need the telemetry feature. buzz it out yourself so you are sure, but its the outer most two pins that you need to short, leaving the 3rd inner most pin on its own.


I'm just working on putting one inside a Ko RF-901S module case, so a transmitter can be left as standard, but still use the hack module.

[Welshy40]

So firstly where can i get spare aerials?

Secondly the dht thats available, how different s job is it compared to the older one? Im tempted to fit it into my 3gr futaba 40mhz

[DCM]

modules are easy to fit, aerials from giantshark?

[neallewis]

So firstly where can i get spare aerials?

Secondly the dht thats available, how different s job is it compared to the older one? Im tempted to fit it into my 3gr futaba 40mhz

Spares: http://www.t9hobbysport.com/default.asp?CatID=115&SubCatID=238

2db antenna is the standard one: http://www.t9hobbysport.com/item.asp?catid=115&subcatid=238&prodid=784

it's basically the same procedure as this thread, you just have to remove the toggle switch as I described above on the DHT module.

[Welshy40]

Yes just remove the toggle switch and solder it permanently in the 1-way/V8R4 compatible position. no need for the other/telemetry option here.

Ok so the DHT has a silver switch that has three wires, first is yellow listed as 1 way, black 2 way and third is green listed as FW. Which ones do i solder together and which do i ignore. Or would it be simpler to unhook the cable and solder a short wire there?

Now on to the sanwa gemini exerd, im lost on where to solder it in but did manage to fit the DHT module under the crystal section just below the aerisl mount, its tight but fits and reckon the bind switch can be double side taped to the crystal area so no extra holes required in the casing.

[neallewis]

Ok so the DHT has a silver switch that has three wires, first is yellow listed as 1 way, black 2 way and third is green listed as FW. Which ones do i solder together and which do i ignore. Or would it be simpler to unhook the cable and solder a short wire there?

Now on to the sanwa gemini exerd, im lost on where to solder it in but did manage to fit the DHT module under the crystal section just below the aerisl mount, its tight but fits and reckon the bind switch can be double side taped to the crystal area so no extra holes required in the casing.

Short green and black, or the equivalent pins on the reverse of the circuit board where the connector solders.

when you move the switch to the 1way/yellow position, you are actually shorting the green and black wires within the switch.

Can't help you with where the +,- and PPM leads solder inside the gemini, as I've no seen one inside, or got one to look. look at where the original module connects, determine which pin is which, and follow where the circuit goes on the PCB. I don't know what modules the sanwa takes, but maybe this pin refernce for other brands might help: http://www.frsky-rc.com/uploadfile/201201/20120103190156120.pdf

[Welshy40]

No modules in the Gemini, and Steve you should know what a Sanwa Gemini Exerd is as I used it for ten years. Pics attached of the in-nerds and I admit I can design an RC buggy but have no idea on things like this so apologies for asking so many questions but I really have no idea.

First pic is the controller upside down for some reason but you can see that control settings were done via a screw driver ad thats why I liked this, simple to use. The second picture is the board behind the control setting panel. Third is the little circuit board above the steering control stick. Fourth is the throttle control stick. Fifth is the circuit board under the throttle stick. Sixth is the main central board that sits in the middle between the sticks with crystal board. Seventh is the other side of the board. Eighth is just an overview to get a better idea. The DHT module can fit on the circuit board under neath the throttle stick and I believe I can fit the bind button in the hole for the crystal.

Question is where do I solder the module to on here?

[Freakypen]

Hi has anyone worked out on the V8R7-2 or v8FR-2 receiver which aerial is the telemetry one? Having 2 aerials just looks messy. If I find out I'll just cut it off. 50/50 chance but knowing my luck......!

[Great_Thark]

No modules in the Gemini, and Steve you should know what a Sanwa Gemini Exerd is as I used it for ten years. Pics attached of the in-nerds and I admit I can design an RC buggy but have no idea on things like this so apologies for asking so many questions but I really have no idea.

First pic is the controller upside down for some reason but you can see that control settings were done via a screw driver ad thats why I liked this, simple to use. The second picture is the board behind the control setting panel. Third is the little circuit board above the steering control stick. Fourth is the throttle control stick. Fifth is the circuit board under the throttle stick. Sixth is the main central board that sits in the middle between the sticks with crystal board. Seventh is the other side of the board. Eighth is just an overview to get a better idea. The DHT module can fit on the circuit board under neath the throttle stick and I believe I can fit the bind button in the hole for the crystal.

Question is where do I solder the module to on here?

did you ever figure this out? I know how but havent got time to write the explanation right at this moment, especially if you already have it figured out

[Great_Thark]

First off big disclaimer. I haven't actually fitted the Frsky to the Exerd, I was going to so got the scope out to identify the pins then didn't bother as I bought something pretty instead.
SO THIS IS AT YOUR RISK

I am presuming the Frsky takes non inverted PPM signals.

This is the quick and easy method that preserves power LED and Battery meter without a lot of work, It might be a bit tight in there without removing the tx board though.

In the picture below the 0V, +V and PPM points are marked to solder your 3 wires

Once you have it working it's probably worth cutting the 2 tracks marked cut, this will remove power to the existing transmitter, saving your batteries.

[Welshy40]

did you ever figure this out? I know how but havent got time to write the explanation right at this moment, especially if you already have it figured out

No, still sitting on my desk unscrewed.

[Great_Thark]

No, still sitting on my desk unscrewed.

See above :-)

[Welshy40]

Just tried it without cutting as my battery pack is rather powerful so not bothered about excess power loss, however it wont bind with my receiver at all. Mind you its a V8R4-2 if thats of any use

[Welshy40]

Ok i made a cock up and soldered the wrong two wires (green & black) together so done and rectified. I need to tidy up a bit but has now binded and works so cheers.

Well after saying that the thing doesnt work now so am puzzled dot com.

[Welshy40]

Ok i think the issue is the way ive soldered it, i ended up taking the wires off and redoing plus moved the aerial wire so it wasnt touching anything metal and appears to work but havent tried it properly.

Ive just bought another exerd for £5.50 that im having for spares just in case. Ive done a picture of installed and will upload. Picture shows the bind button thru the crystal section which needs trimming the back case inside but as the circuit board is so close make sure electrical tape is used on the big board and double side the bind board to that.

However i ended up feeding the wire on the other side of the battery box as i thought id shorted it by placing it over the crystal holder, but now doubt it. I had taped to the inner side of the side sections as the button and light portrudes through with easy access but the battery cannot hit it as its protected by the two side secrions. Hope i make sense.

[Welshy40]

Here is the picture. Module has been put in with the plug section on the left and is at an angle infront of the circuit board and sits under the aerial. The aerial is sitting ontop and then ive diverted into the wire divider sections and this avoids the aerial touching any metal.

I drilled all the way through on the aerial hole but fits snuggly, however is a bit tricky to do the inner nut to stop play but once you have the right amount it fits really well.

I also bought a battery from Hobby stores and was a bit expensive but is one that holds its power, and fits perfectly, howvwer if you do this make sure you move the wires around to avoid a short as the futaba connectors are wired differently on the batteries compared to the Sanwa design.

[Great_Thark]

Glad to hear its working. I had intended to take the transmitter board out of mine and transfer the couple of parts needed to a small vero board to make some space. but that's a little more complicated and I didnt want to confuse things:)

[Welshy40]

Ok another issue thats got me stumped. Ive move my esc and receiver and now the receiver doesnt work yet when i connect to my futaba 40mhz unit it does. Ive tried three recievers and all are the same so what am i doing wrong?

[Welshy40]

Ok thanks to Andy advising me id put the futaba connectors on upside down, now all is working perfectly again. Guys thanks for your advice and help.

[Dave Dodd]

finally got round to fitting one of these, the hardest part was drilling the holes for the binding board, to make it look neat and tidy. tested at last nights club meeting and works a treat, with no huge aerial :thumbsup:

[janus_77]

Ok, sorry but it's "stupid question" time.

I've seen converted KO Esprit 3 transmitters, but is it really necessary ?

If I'm correct the Spectrum SM1001 works on a KO Esprit III, and also it apparently also works in a Futaba 3PK transmitter.

So is it needed to really convert a KO transmitter or has anyone tried ( or is it worth a try ) to use a FRSky Futaba combo on a KO Esprit III ?

(or maybe even slap in a complete original Futaba module :confused:)

http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/catalog/14348(1).jpg

[Kusal]

I have a 3VC with a FrySky module (not the hack) in and will be next Saturday at the GP; you can try if it fits if you want to (but I think it will)?

[janus_77]

I have a 3VC with a FrySky module (not the hack) in and will be next Saturday at the GP; you can try if it fits if you want to (but I think it will)?

I'm pretty sure it will fit, but will it work :wub or will it fizz :wtf:

[Kusal]

Well, after the GP, we switch module, we bind with one my cars and you try.
If it works, good, if not, no money spent.
C u then. :woot:
Kurt

[spennyy2k]

is there a guide for doing a super exzes yet?

[Kusal]

+1. I would also like to convert my Super Exzes.
Thx :thumbsup:

[Kusal]

Question: after finding the pos and neg on the module pins from the TX, would testfitting the signal lead to one of the pins and then binding it to a rx lead to damage? (To find out what the signal lead is for a super Exzes)
Thx.

[Ema]

Yesterday evening I made a similar conversion for a friend of mine on a Sanwa Super Exzes Plus.

My assignment was only to discover the electrical connection between the "hack module" and the standard Sanwa module connector.
We used an external plug connected to the module pins because we prefer to make something that it is possible to use without modifications to the radio.

Looking at the backward of the radio the pinout of the module from left to right is:

1 PPM
2 POSITIVE
3 NOT USED
4 NEGATIVE
5 ANTENNA
6 NOT USED
7 NOT USED
8 NOT USED

We tested the radio only on the bench, however seems to work flawlessy.

Here's some pictures ;) .

http://i43.tinypic.com/xqcimb.jpg

http://i39.tinypic.com/rvk8lg.jpg

Bye
Ema

[Kusal]

Hi Ema,
Thx you very much for this info, much appreciated!

[tonydevon]

hi sorry to be a pain, but need some advice, I bought 2nd hand a ko esprit II with frsky conversion, the receiver appears useless as the aerial on it has fallen off, upon inspection I see that it was held in place with blutak :(

anyway what spec of receiver do I need to look for? had a FRsky V8 series Rx with it, but would prefer something a little more robust

would one of the orange gr300 ones fit?

dont worry I now know that only the FRsky V8 series will work, will buy a new one, but does anyone have a decent pic of the connection to the PCB for the aerial? will try to solder it back on.

[DrPaul]

Hi Tony,

I've been doing the KO conversions event since they first came out. I personally use V8R4 and V8R4-11 receivers without any problems. On the early versions some of the aerials are poorly soldered. Next time your at the track I will either re-solder it for you or solder on a new one. I actually tuck the aerial back in the receiver and i have never had any signal issues. You do need a fine point iron to solder the aerials. they only need that 25mm long aerial to work correctly, that the beauty of 2.4

You can use the V8FR-11 hard case receiver but it does take up a lot of space.

The V8R4-11 receivers are fine and work trouble free and cheap to buy as well.

Happy to talk you through it all if you PM me.

Cheers Paul

[tonydevon]

ok thanks, think I found where its detatched from.

just ordered lipos, charger, wire, all sorts LOL, should be ready to go, minus a transponder not sure funds will allow that in time, but for the 2nd meeting in Feb.

thanks for advice I thought that little wire was not only broken off but cut short LOL

[DrPaul]

No Problem,
We have a few club/loan transponders at the club until you get around to buying your own,
Paul

[BiGs]

Has anyone fitted the hack module to a Ko Propo Helios EX10 as my 40MHz module seems to have developed a fault. Can't find any relevant help using the search to identify the right module pins. I can probably figure it out eventually but if someone else has already done it please could you detail how you did the conversion.
Cheers,
Fraze

[RCAshers]

Thanks to EMA I have just converted my friends Super Exzes using EMAs conections and it works great. The only comment I will make is to solder the wires to the transmitter you need to use the smal board at the rear of the module pins and if you want to use the module to blank off the hole in the back of the transmitter you must remove the 40meg guts from the module box.

[V6Jim]

Just did this conversion to a Futaba 3GR tonight. Works an absolute treat and relatively easy to do. Took about an hour.

PM me if you have any questions glad to help.

Jimmy

[grimidol]

I got a second hand ko esprit 2 what has had the frsky hack fitted works great but it says the batterys are at 10v all the time ? Any ideas why it is not giving a true reading

[andy110m]

I've managed to convert the older Sanwa Exzes. I found one I had from years ago in the loft so gave it ago and success. The pin format was the same as given above.

I've got a couple of questions if anyone can help.


This is more of an observation really. The led doesn't stay a solid colour, it seems to flicker. This doesn't affect the control of the car or anything but I just wondered why.
Using a Turnigy trackstar speedo, I can't get its one touch set up to work with the FrSky receiver. I can set an LRP and Novak up to it perfectly but the Trackstar doesn't want to know. Again I can't see why.

If anyone knows or could speculate the answer, mainly to question 2 I'd appreciate it.

Thanks.

[Northy]

Using a Turnigy trackstar speedo, I can't get its one touch set up to work with the FrSky receiver. I can set an LRP and Novak up to it perfectly but the Trackstar doesn't want to know. Again I can't see why.
[/LIST]
If anyone knows or could speculate the answer, mainly to question 2 I'd appreciate it.

Thanks.

I've had the same problem! I thought the RX was faulty and was going to look into it this week!

G

[gerbil]

Hi sorry to ask but can someone post a link up for the module and receiver as I can't seem to find teeming stock
It's for a ko esprit type r
Thanks

[gerbil]

http://www.giantshark.co.uk/product/170323/frsky-dht-24ghz-two-way-communication-system
Right think I found it but I do have a question the switch that comes off the bind button bit ,do I just discard it
Sorry I'm a bit lost here

[szymanski2oo1]

Just a note to say thanks for the info... And the other feller on oople that did a sanwa conversion,.... I managed to do mine and it works a treat... I'm back into racing after 20 yrs and it's nice to have my trusty sanwa working !


Hey all,

The FrSky hack module and receivers are now getting alot of attention - and rightly so - they are awesome! :thumbsup:
I've converted a few transmitters using them now and, like others, have had no problems.

** before I begin, some people have asked why not just use a plugin module from Corona, Spektrum,etc **
Good question. The answer is that Corona's build quality is questionable and there are enough bad reports out there that I wouldnt touch them. Spektrum are great, but you are paying for all the "module" plastic casing and electronics. At the cost of £60 upwards for a good module, vs £15 for the FrSky Hack module, its an easy decision.
Also, any module that sticks your aerial out the back of the transmitter has got to be bad design - if the transmitter falls over, it falls on the aerial housing snapping it off. Ive seen loads of these unfortunately.
And lastly, why would you want two aerials?! Even the old 40Mhz aerial is going to suck in just a bit of your new 2.4Ghz signal; and I think its better to have every little Hz of power used in controlling my car, not in bouncing off my old superflous aerial. :thumbdown:

So, here is my KO Esprit II FrSky in all its glory:
http://www.frogcdrom.com/img/ko1.jpg

So, first thing to do with your old 40Hz radio is unplug the existing module, unscrew the old aerial then carefully open up the transmitter and fully remove the aerial.
N.B. watch for the battery connection cable as it will most likely be attached to the back panel of your transmitter, so when you take it off, unplug the battery connector from the daughter board it to avoid damage.


So, assuming you have got all the 40Mhz gubbins out of there, you now have a clean transmitter waiting for the new module.

First thing I do is to use my Dremel with 10mm rotary sanding drum to ream out the existing aerial hole to just over 10mm.
EDIT -- 6th March 2012 -- just fitted another 2 of these systems, and I found that there seems to be a difference in tolerances on these 2.4Ghz aerials, so actually you get a safer build if you drill out the aerial hole to 9.5mm first, then using your sanding drum and/or circular hand file, carefully ream out the hole to the required diameter. Remember, keep offering up the new aerial to ensure a nice tight fit. It may actually end up being just shy of the 10mm as one of mine was tonight.
http://www.frogcdrom.com/img/ko8.jpg

Offer up the new 2.4Ghz aerial into this reamed out hole. It should push in with a bit of force at the knurled end point. If done right, this will simply be a resistance fit and should be very secure; requiring no additional glues or adhesives.
Ensure the new aerial can bend and rotate as designed.
http://www.frogcdrom.com/img/ko3.jpg


Now, to install the actual module, first choose where you want to place it.
For this KO, I cant think of anywhere better than in the old 40Mhz module casing, so im going to choose there.

I have seen alot of people squeeze them into the top part of the transmitter where there is some empty space, but that leaves you no room for the BIND button and LED daughter board - and you'll see why I think this should go here later on.
It also is a pretty tight fit and at very best, awkward. If a component or button fails in your transmitter, fixing it is going to be much harder when you have to work around or temporarily remove your FrSky module board; or if you want to expand your new FrSky system to include telemetry or other nice things like that, you wont have the space up here to do so.

So, im sticking with it in the 40Mhz module casing.
First thing to do here is to remove the existing 40Mhz board.
Simply unscrew the 3 screws that hold it in place and gently lift away - in some cases there might be glue that needs carefully cut with a craft knife.
Stick the 40Mhz board and crystals on a classified site and make some money back :thumbsup:

Because I wanted some flexibility to upgrade at a later date, I didnt want to use hot glue to mount the FrSky module inside the case, so instead I actually went for Lee Martins excellent servo tape. Its as sticky as Sticky the stick insect on a sticky........ you get the idea :)
Holds it firmly, but can be removed later with no cutting if required.
http://www.frogcdrom.com/img/ko9.jpg

Now, thats the aerial in, and the module in place.
Next, before you solder up the connections, I think its a good idea to mount the daughter board for the BIND button and LED.

This is where loads of people disagree, but I stronlgy recommend that you drill your transmitter housing. Its a much more professional, tidy finish; and I disagree with those who say that you dont need to BIND more than once or look at the LED. Both are there for a reason.
- the BIND LED actually serves three functions.
yellow/orange = normal use, and shows that your FrSky module is 100% working
flashing red = BIND mode
solid green = "Range Check" mode

If you cant see this LED because you have buried it in the old 40Mhz casing as Ive seen some people do, then its alot more difficult to be sure whats happening - eg. are you in BIND mode or not?

Also, the BIND button is so straight forward to use that its great. Burying it inside the transmitter means this becomes much more of a task.
I dont know about you, but Ive had interference at races before, even 2.4Ghz, and 99% of the time, re-binding solves these as the TX/RX jump onto a new portion of the 2.4Ghz spectrum.
If the BIND button is hidden, this 5 second job becomes a bit more of a nuisance.

Some people have also drilled the front of their transmitters, but this puts the LED right through the nice KO Esprit name plate. Yuk! Not a nice solution.
Its just my opinion, but better to take the time and do it right.

You can see from the photos where I have placed the button. There is just a perfect amount of space in front of the aerial, and it all looks very nice and is immediately visible when needed.
http://www.frogcdrom.com/img/ko4.jpg

http://www.frogcdrom.com/img/ko5.jpg
To do this, measure the distance between the button and the LED centres, then translate this onto the desired location on your transmitter.

The button is a 3.5mm hole
The LED is a 3mm hole
Get the Dremel out and drill them nice with a smooth action to prevent chipping of the plastic.

Once drilled, offer the daughter board up to make sure they sit correctly.
Its a good idea at this point to jsut try the button. If the fit is too tight, or your hand was a bit Shakin' Stevens when drilling then the button may foul on the edge and not give a nice "click" feel.

If all is well, then we want to mount the daughter board...
Again, I used the LMR servo tape for this one. It really is that good!
But maybe you would prefer a more secure hot glue solution.
http://www.frogcdrom.com/img/ko11.jpg

With that in place, its time to solder up the main module board and we are done!
For this, you need to find the negative, the positive and the PPM rail.
On my KO Esprit II, its all very nicely provided on the left hand part of my board.
In order, from left to right, we have PPM, Positive, Negative.

I cut the wires on my FrSky module to expose about 5mm of bare wire, then tin them as normal.
Just before applying them to the board, I freshen up the solder on the board (simply heating up the PPM, +, - pins and adding a touch of new solder). Then offer up the FrSky wires and solder them on.
You shouldnt need any new solder at this point, just the heat from your iron should melt the solder that is already there and that should be plenty.
http://www.frogcdrom.com/img/ko10.jpg

After soldering these on, make sure the joints are mechanically sound (ie. give 'em a yank and if they dont come off, should be good!)

Here is our example KO, ready to go:
http://www.frogcdrom.com/img/ko7.jpg

Ensure the grey aerial wire is then screwed securely to the aerial itself; and you are done.

Good idea at this stage to power everything on and give it a test!
Bind it to your reciever and connect up a servo to test the controls. :)

If all is well, screw the transmitter back together, admire handiwork, stick on a brew and eat well earned digestive.
Proper job. :thumbsup::thumbsup:

Hope it helps.
Andrew.

[szymanski2oo1]

Mine flickers on my converted sanwa but doesn't seem to matter .... Been using it for several race meetings without a glitch!


I've managed to convert the older Sanwa Exzes. I found one I had from years ago in the loft so gave it ago and success. The pin format was the same as given above.

I've got a couple of questions if anyone can help.


This is more of an observation really. The led doesn't stay a solid colour, it seems to flicker. This doesn't affect the control of the car or anything but I just wondered why.
Using a Turnigy trackstar speedo, I can't get its one touch set up to work with the FrSky receiver. I can set an LRP and Novak up to it perfectly but the Trackstar doesn't want to know. Again I can't see why.

If anyone knows or could speculate the answer, mainly to question 2 I'd appreciate it.

Thanks.

[andy110m]

Hi All,

Thought I'd let you know the outcome of my conversion and follow up on the points I raised in an earlier post.

The LED flickering has continued but as someone else commented, it doesn't affect the operation in anyway so if you get this don't worry.

The second point about not being able to set up a Turnigy speedo with it was confusing as other brands would. I've now managed to get it all set up and I think the problem was with the EPA settings on the tranny. They were both at 160% so maybe the range was to large for that speedo, who knows but bringing them down to 100% and it worked.

Something else which may have been a factor but again, who knows, is the fail safe wasn't set when I tried to do it the first time. In effect it was set to a 50/50 stick position but the sanwa is 60/40. I corrected that once I'd set a novak speedo to it.

The upshot is it now works. If this is down to the end points, the failsafe or me just being daft the first time I tried it, I don't know but the Turnigy speedo's will work with this conversion.

[Rick84]

Hi, could somebody who's converted a Super Exzes possibly point me in the right direction?

I want to convert my Super Exzes but I just don't know what is what!

Here is a picture of the handset opened up. Could someone please advise where I am supposed to attach the Red (V+), Black (GND) and Yellow (PPM) wires from the FrSky hack module?

http://www.anony.ws/i/2014/06/11/54gC.jpg

Any help would be massively appreciated! :)

Thanks,
Rick

[neallewis]

Hi, could somebody who's converted a Super Exzes possibly point me in the right direction?

I want to convert my Super Exzes but I just don't know what is what!

Here is a picture of the handset opened up. Could someone please advise where I am supposed to attach the Red (V+), Black (GND) and Yellow (PPM) wires from the FrSky hack module?

http://www.anony.ws/i/2014/06/11/54gC.jpg

Any help would be massively appreciated! :)

Thanks,
Rick

This is the info you need:

http://www.oople.com/forums/showpost.php?p=808414&postcount=226

You can solder onto the circuit board that contains the connector for the module.
Pin 1 = ppm
Pin 2 = +ve
Pin 4 = -ve

I can't see enough detail t advice you further from your photo sprry. if you can take a detailed shot of the small board on the back of the transmitter, then I could advice further. it is possible for you to work it out from above however.

[Rick84]

Hi Neil,

Many thanks. Here is another picture of that board. So just to clarify sorry, but when looking internally at this board (as in the picture), from right to left:

Pin 1 = PPM (Yellow)
Pin 2 = VE+ (Red)
Pin 4 = GND (Black)

http://www.anony.ws/i/2014/06/12/AR9bL.jpg

Thanks :)

[Kusal]

Have a look at post 226 of this same thread written by Ema. If any more info is needed, just let me know.

[pugs]

Decided to do my super exzes with the frsky conversion and thought I would share with you all:) I didn't much like the standard frsky receiver casing so decided to convert the sanwa rx 311 fm to 2.4 using the frsky board, wasn't the easiest of tasks to wire the pins up for the servo plugs but came good in the end:)

[andy110m]

Looking at the pictures Rick posted of the Exzes, this is a newer model from the one I did. The layout looks better in this but I'd advise you remove the smaller board which the aerial mounts to. You'll have to follow the and rejoin some of the circuits, on mine I managed to get rid of the board and white connecting cable and made the joints to the pins of the socket on the main board.

Its quite delicate work so take your time but it'll be a better job and give you more room to mount the module.

Best of luck.

[pugs]

Hi Neil,

Many thanks. Here is another picture of that board. So just to clarify sorry, but when looking internally at this board (as in the picture), from right to left:

Pin 1 = PPM (Yellow)
Pin 2 = VE+ (Red)
Pin 4 = GND (Black)

http://www.anony.ws/i/2014/06/12/AR9bL.jpg

Thanks :)

Yes that's correct buddy:)

[neallewis]

Hi Neil,

Many thanks. Here is another picture of that board. So just to clarify sorry, but when looking internally at this board (as in the picture), from right to left:

Pin 1 = PPM (Yellow)
Pin 2 = VE+ (Red)
Pin 4 = GND (Black)

http://www.anony.ws/i/2014/06/12/AR9bL.jpg

Thanks :)

Removing the module board is an option, but you would need to trace the wires for the potentiometer control, trace them through the antenna board, and into the main board. Also you would need to trace the three wires (ppm, +,-) from the antenna board and onto the main board. not a problem, but not sure what to do with the additional pins from the original module connector, if they are needed?

I'd be inclined to keep the antenna board on place, removing the larger pins that connect through to the module (keeping them to resolder back in if needed), and solder the frsky module to the antenna board. you could then site the frsky module inside the module space at the back of the transmitter, and use an old sanwa module case top hot glued in the space to make it look tidy.