proline are generally used in the us for dusty tracks. What dampers are you using ?

Ive used schumacher mini pins or mini spikes out on the street with mine, trouble is brush-less & a damp surface its a struggled to keep it from spinning. On a dry day its really good, wrong time of year to be playing about lol.

Also found that the Cobra kit tyres, spikes? worked really really well on wet grass, they where brand new and had the car pulling wheels autograss style down the lawn!

Option House Golds on the front with silver Associated springs,
Traxxas Greys on the back with Associated green springs.
Terry.sc recommended those springs as a starting point

I'm not sure what the pistons are,the oil is some light weight silicone that we used to use for lubricating printers.

I checked out some of the dirt/low grip set ups used on RC10B4's that're posted up on here and have re-set the rear end positioning of the dampers and top arms accordingly to get the dampers more vertical and the the top arms longer.
I was going to move the fronts in one hole and up one at the top and have a look at changing the pistons.
If it'd have been a 4WD,then I'd have soon had it dancing,but 2WD,phew,
what a handful it can be.

Nearly got the rear suspension mounts sorted with it,it'll be an all alloy affair.
Next is to make a brace that runs from the front gearbox mount to the top of the aft battery holder.

On the tyres and set up front,I found a new pair of Proline ribs on the Bay
and got 'em for under a fiver,result.
I also found a new pair of Losi IFMAR Silvers up in the loft that I'd forgotten I had.
They're pretty soft and grippy with the tread pattern closely resembling
Proline Hot Shots.

The Kyosho front shocks have had the pistons changed for smaller hole jobs
(some I had left over from owning the Optima years ago)and been re-filled,
but the Traxxas rears are a different kettle.
I have'nt any pistons that match their bores.
Traxxas UK's website has spare pistons but don't list any bore sizes.
My Traxxas shocks could well be from BITD when Traxxas made and raced
1/10th offroad(did they ever do that?),so sourcing pistons to suit could be a bit of a game I reckon.

Hey guys just thought I'd joing the thread. Here's some pics of my Cobra. Was a cheapo flea-bay purchase that I stripped down and rebuilt. No major mods yet just JC racing wheels, dBoots tyres, and some cheapo shocks.

Running an Mtronixs SBS brushless system at the mo.

Will be looking at the Madrat box replacement in the future as it seems you guys are reccomending that the original box is made of cheese!! :)

Hopefully will be running her soon to see how she handles so far!

http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z...y/DSCF2002.jpg
http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z...y/DSCF2001.jpg
http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z...y/DSCF2006.jpg
http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z...y/DSCF2003.jpg
http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z...y/DSCF2005.jpg

Nice one Bluestreak.

That brushless will kill that weedy stock diff pretty rapidly though and we're talking minutes and seconds here not runs.

A 27turn stock is plenty for 'em,fit another box for big power,as you say the Mad Rat box fits and works well.

How will it handle?,well I'm looking at fabbing some new bottom arm mounts
with more toe-in to try and keep the thing from writing it's own name in the
dirt when you're trying to put the power down.
Shall we say that the back end is "lively".

Here's another wheeze,unbolt the entire front end,take off the steering knuckles and axles,turn the entire front end around 180 degrees and fit it back on then refit the steering knuckles and axles.
This will give you a few more mil. of wheelbase(still within BRCA regs),help to make it a bit more stable and less prone to swapping ends.

According to Adey,they're pretty nippy on high grip surfaces(carpet/astroturf/grass/tarmac),I've noticed that with mine,but on the dirt or clay,phew.
I ran mine with a 17x2 brushed in it and it was just hard work.

Mark

miggers is right about the diff. The original diff wasnt the best but it is far better than the newer designed one. Just modify the inner edge of the bearings, make a centre bush and put a b4 diff in. Sounds hard but its really quite easy. I do like the retro body colours though. I maybe wrong but i have heard that mardave are doing a new cobra. I dont know if chris wilkinson reads this part of the mardave forums but if he does, i hope he could comment on this. I would buy one and run it.

Well I got to use the old girl for the first time in anger last night. Indoors on a fully carpeted track.


I used the tips from this site http://home.scarlet.be/~be067749/58/bug/print.htm to give me a basic set up as I'm a first time buggy driver.

So my basic set up was front shocks laid down as far as poss. losi 42.5 grade oil. dBoots terrrabyte tyres soft inserts. ride height had front arms level. About 2 degrees toe in. 4 degrees pos camber.

Rear shocks Outer lower mount. Highest top mount. Losi 32.5 grade shock oil. dBoots terrabyte tyres. Pro-line closed cell inserts. Ride height lower arms level. 1 degree pos camber.

The car felt very stable in a straight line and through high speed turns. Jumped beautifully and landed spot on.

The rear end was planted.

Biggest problem was in low speed turns and very tight turns. Car had far too much front grip on the terrabytes so will be trying out some proline ribs on the front. May also soften the damping on the front and make the rear shocks nore upright to help in the twistys slightly.


As for the gearbox!!!!!!!!!!! :thumbdown: :lol:

Will be looking at the madrat conversion in the near future!!

I would try 35 in the front and either 30 or even 25 in the rear.

Try some staggered ribs on the front, should make it a bit more predictable...

Thanks for the hints guys> I'm used to racing V12's so not as many adjustments available!!!!! :lol:

Go with Schumacher "yellow" minipins all round for carpet matey.

Everybody seems to use those.

Yep looked good but still had to marshall it after turning turtle a few times :lol:. Get the front end grip issue sorted then work from there.
Great to see a Cobra running :cool: - I have not seen one for years.

:lol: Had to be marshalled more than a few times methinks!!!! Hee Hee was good fun first time out though.

Miggers have you got anymore details on the Madrat GBox conversion or even a how too, parts list used??

Anything would be good as I'm going to attempt this conversion soon.

Cheers

Ash

i would use yellow pins for indoor on carpet and maybe try staggers on the front for mixed surface indoor offroad.

Bits needed:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ANSMANN-MA...item5d31691f58

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ANSMANN-MA...item5d2e30d518

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ANSMANN-MA...item483fd9e9da

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-10x15x4...item5d323a6787

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hpi-savage...item5196cdd243

You need 2 pair of the above 5x10x4 bearings.

Total cost:£28.75 plus a bit of postage.
That gives you a complete Mad Rat'box,pinion,slipper,spur et al ready to bolt onto your Cobra chassis.

Here's pics of mine with the 'Rat box fitted into the Cobra 'box shells,
about 3/4 of the way down page 10:
http://www.oople.com/forums/showthre...=27465&page=10

thanks miggers. do you think the cvd's will fit??!!!

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4001948395...84.m1423.l2649

Well,mine has Meteor rear arms on it(stiffer than Cobra ones)so I doubt they'd fit mine,I'd need 90-95mm ones
(possibly HotBodies D4 CVD's).
How long are Cobra shafts?
If 'Rat arms will fit the Cobra's rear mounts then you could use 'Rat bearing holders running 5x10x4 bearings with 'Rat CVD's and Rat rear wheels.

Alternatively,try the RC10 driveshafts for the 'Rat,done so that you can run
Associated rear wheels.
Mine has Cobra drive shaft ends(with Meteor dogbones)and modified
RC10B2/3/4 front axles so that I can run JC Racing RC10B series dished
five spokes.

Another problem is now beginning to manifest itself.

I've pretty much sorted the handling to a fair degree with decent
horsepower in it(yes Adey,tyres and set-up have helped a lot)it's now
pulling the mounting screws out of the rear hangers and through the chassis:cry:.
At the end of a run session the front screws on each side are sticking out by a couple of mil.

When I originally put the Cobra gearbox on it,I used all secondhand parts
that were swapped for Meteor parts.
The Cobra box had been fixed in place by the original owner using the
Mardave supplied self-tapping screws(knowing the Cobra's crap diff,the 'box
would have been taken off to try and sort it many times)and I now use
M3 set-screws instead.
The M3's can't cut a deep enough thread in the soft plastic to get a bite
and so are pulling out,cobblers.

Bit of a think about a repair needed here.
I don't want to buy new gearbox halves just to cut the hangers off
and throw the rest away.


And as to Adey's question about Mardave doing that "new" Cobra again,it seems
they're certainly thinking about it:

http://www.mardave.co.uk/cobra-evo.html

It'll have to be bloody good for that price though when it's pitched against Ansmann's
2WD line up.
BTW,click on and zoom that b&w picture,see if anyone knows that car!!!!!
Mark