Thanks Roger, I did end up having to dremel that plate to suit fan profile in the end. Would you run a fan with a 7.5VST? I may consider experimenting with the layout that's all, but have no previous experience of running R10 pro 2-3s ESc.

The Chef, thanks man! I'll give that a try and prod with a flat blade to get it in the mood. :)

rb6 shock set ups
 

hi
currently enjoying building my rb 6 but could fellow kyosho rb 6 builders share there shock set ups.
i want to try the kit pistons but not sure what weight oils to use,and also spring choices as well.
the car will only be used on the indoors for now as dont want to dirty her lol.:woot:
many thanks jamie

Hi Jamie,

I'm using standard pistons with 500cst front and 300 rear. Orange springs up front and red rear.

I have posted my setup in the photo album section on our Facebook page. The Apex gp would be the best one to use. www.facebook.com/insidelineracing

Cheers
Kev

Hi Kev,

How is the RB6 compared with the DB1?
Could you share some info on this?

Thanks

Kev Lee has been running 500cst front / orange spring & 300cst with kit red springs on the rear.

I built mine with Nick Gurnells excellent tapered pistons from the off, I've arrived at 5x1.25 / 40wt AE / Orange front and 5x1.3 / 30wt AE / Kit red rears. You have to remember that with a tapered piston you will want a little smaller in hole size than a plain piston due to the less resistance to flow between piston and body due to the shorter depth of the at the outside diameter.

The DB1 and RB6 are both fantastic cars. I guess as with any chassis comparison, each one will excel*depending on the different tracks/surface etc. I think as has been proved there isn't much that is better than the DB1 on high grip. Saying that, both times I have used the RB6 on high grip it's been awesome.

It's too early to say which is better, and that will probably never be answered to be honest as everyone is different, and everyone has different requirements from their car. What I am happy about is that Kyosho have two of the best 2WDs available.

Kev

Hi Roger,are you still in RM or have you changed it MM?

Hi Kev,

what shocks oil brand are you using?
Thanks.

Kev's quoting Core oils.. you can buy them from inside line..

I built my car MM but built up a RM gearbox assembly at the same time so I could swap between the two quickly.
I tried mine in RM when I went to a soaking wet Kidderminster to see the difference just swapping layout made .... there were no setup changes other than correcting ride height (car is cleverly designed so you don't even need to get the camper gauge out!

Car was easier to drive in slick conditions in RM but once you got you driving adjusted was just about the same pace in MM. Can change between the two in 5 mins so long as you have the soldering iron warming as you pick up the driver :)

All other running has been MM.

Thanks for reply kev
Not used the core oils before have got a full range of ae oils so will be using those.
U say your using 500 and 300 cst weight oils what weight fo these oils compare to if im using the ae weight oils.
Cheers jamie

Jamie, careful here as I have had this when I tried matching Kev's setups with AE oils.

AE oils have a CST number on them now as well as a wt number BUT comparing like for like I think that you should go for the "round the value up" rather than "round the value down" approach as the AE oils seem a bit lighter below 30wt and a bit heavier above when compared CST vlaues with the CORE CST values.

As an approximation I would suggest CORE 500CST ~ 40wt AE and CORE 300CST ~27.5wt AE ... should give you a starting point

Im running 25 front kickup with the 1mm shim,
what would 25 without it do
30 with it and with out it


also,it looks like in the manual,it says in rm,to get more slip angle on the rear,add a bigger shim under the shock tower,not the hinge pin holder,is that the same as adding washers to the inside ball studs or have i got that wrong?

OK .. from the top else I'll miss something!!

The shims were originally intended to adjust the hinge pin height when you reversed the front arm mount to change the kick up (and thus total castor) as doing so changes the hinge pin height at its center relative to the chassis.

So for hinge pin height

25deg +0.5 shim = 30deg +1mm shim
25deg + no shim = 30deg +0.5mm shim etc etc

Changing the hinge pin height relative to the chassis moves the roll center of that axle relative to the height of the mass acting on that axle ... same rules as always, further the roll center is from the height of the mass the more affect the mass will have (i.e. try to roll the car more as it moves).
A bit too complicated a topic to discuss in the time I have tonight but in essence if your happy with 25deg +1mm shim but want to try 30deg then you should bolt in both the shims to give 1.5mm and thus the same hinge pin height.

Remember that more castor gives you more through and out of a corner but less bite in ... less castor the opposite.
Now with the RB6 we have two potential castor adjustments, castor inserts which just affect castor, and the hinge pin block which affects both castor and kick-up at the same time (kick-up + castor insert = total castor).
Kick-up works a little like anti-squat but at the front of the car. By that I mean it affects the way the weight transfers around. In the case of kick-up if mainly affects 2 things;

1) the way in which weight transfers forward under breaking (more kick up = more weight transferred forward)
2) the way in which the front of a car goes over sharp bumps / rides up ramp faces (more kick-up allows the impact to be absorbed by the suspension more but results in a loss of ride height ... on steep ramps this means the front of the chassis may bottom unsettling the car ... less kick-up would mean less absorbed by the suspension, less ride height change but in extreme cases the front of the car could be thrown up and the front wheels become unloaded)

With the RB6 having both kick-up and castor inserts you can see the potential for tuning castor and kick-up independently for example;

25 deg kick-up + 4deg castor insert = 29deg total castor
30 deg kick-up + 0deg castor insert = 30deg total castor

These would feel fairly similar to drive so long as the track was flat and didn't have any big breaking zones but different if bumpy/big jumps and big stops.

I would suggest, to start with at least, that you play with the kick-up and castor inserts separately.

I built my car with 30deg + 0deg but might well find that 25deg + 4deg might suit my driving style better ... time will tell.

"slip angle" or anti-squat on the rear. What they are actually saying is the options are; a) 1mm shim - rear hinge pin block - bulkhead = minimum anti-squat
b) rear hinge pin block - 1mm shim - bulkhead = maximum anti-squat
c) 0.5 shim -hinge block -0.5 shim - bulkhead = medium anti-squat

Based on experience with Scorpion I have built my RB6 with option b) and added a 1mm shim under the RF2 forward hinge pin block to gain even more anti-squat.

Remember that the rear anti-squat adjustment potentially affects the hinge pin height in the same way as we discussed with the kick-up plate ... the correct way to make a 1mm change to anti-squat is to move 0.5 from under one block to above the other / remove it.

I hope that helps a bit and wasn't too confusing an explanation!!

Good lord :woot:

Sorted now then Mark :thumbsup:

hahaha ... yes, I can see that might be a little overwhelming as an answer :)

I don't like to say "do this, don't worry about why" as it doesn't help people learn.

Keep firing the questions, even if they are questions about my answers to previous questions which raised some more questions which need answers ;)

Ran mine for the first time properly this weekend and I have to say this far OT is fantastic. I'm so much faster with to than the Vega, I can push in corners and keep power on where I never could before.

Top job looking forward to going inside with it.

chef could you post your full setup plz.including what battery layout,i ran mine at rhr dirty weekend,i wont be doing that again:cry:.......but iv ticked a box:)
cheers

what happened to it mark??