Paul, you're on the right lines with either of your suggestions - and to be honest, i'd probably look at both. I have less washers in the front of mine, and more toe in

Its on power rear traction you want I reckon.

Rear toe in, raise the rear diff, less antisquat, longer rear camber link. All should help - do 1 at a time and do another run making notes on paper so you can go back.

Do try my posted setup, its exactly what you are describing that I had to start with and its easy to dial out. ;)

????
 

All

I was going to try Nathan Waters set up from the F3's.. And was putting 2mm anti squat washers at the rear but found the wishbones catches on the chassis???? I have checked everything is in the right place??

P

Sounds correct it just needs a little bit of attention with a dremmel.

Dont go too mad just thin the top of the chassis of a fraction until it doesn't catch anymore this is what i did when i had the car and i know others have done to theirs.

Natha Waters Set up...
 

Also the ctr to ctr, (of ball cup) camber length is 46.5mm which causes the servo horn to foul on the batery posts.... Is this another mod? Or are people using a slightly differant length?

How far would I raise the rear diff if I was going to do so? So far my car is great! But Id rather learn what to do now in case I need to make a few changes:thumbsup:

Thanks

There is no middle ground for the diff position - there is only high or low, you just turn the diff cams around. Make sure to not loose the belt tension while doing it.

When I am home I will confirm exactly where the dot is on the cam in relation to the gearbox - this should be about right for all.

Ohhhhhh. Ok I get it now. Haha, I was thinking of tensioning the belts, not the high/low.

Thanks!:thumbsup:

RE: Servo Horn
 

What effect on the the steering does having the the linkage in the hgh or low hole on the servo horn.

It will theoretically speed the feel of the response of the servo - as the servo will have to move less across its arc to give the same amount of travel. Theoretically this could "speed up" the feel of the steering - certainly a not a good thing if your car feels a little twitchy!

Cheers

Darryn

cat sx phil booth edition
 

any one says which oil is used on original build shock (front and rear) for cat sx phil Booth?
thanks for answer

i stand to be corrected here but i am led to believe its 30wt front, 25wt back

Yep think it's 30/25 like the other guy said!

Guys, started running my Booth Cat, done a few rounds at Bury and again yesterday at Worksop (running a tamiya too). Started everything stock, then yesterday tried softening springs, and also then a rear roll bar. Observations/issues are:

1. On the higher traction Bury track it was ok but slightly lacking in side bite, which got worse on the lower grip surface at Worksop. Even dropping to yellow rear springs and red front it felt almost too stiff for the low grip surface.

2. Putting the roll bar in for the final, it really threw the car out taking off some jumps, the rear kicked right up on take off. Anyone else found this with the roll bar or might I have another issue I've not noticed?

Any help on a setup which might give more bite all round much appreciated!!

Dave,

This is a different issue. Running yellow springs on the rear and 25wt means that you more than likely bottomed out going up the jump. The rear roll bar will allow the car to hold its shape better through the corners and when you land, stop the car from moving side to side when it pulls away. It wont make the rear kick up on take off.

Ive done some running at Bury over the winter, pm me and ill drop you my setup with a few tweaks which might better suit you.

Si

Hey Si, thank you for your advice yesterday mate. Your right that my car doesn't pivot, I did dial it out ages ago as the pivot I was getting was snatchy. Bringing some back with roll bars should help like you said, but putting the thin one on the rear for the final didn't seem to feel any different. Infact I couldn't even feel that I had taken the front one off either! :blush:

It may be because my damping is heavier than yours, I may lighten it up a little for Worksop just to try it.

No worries mate. I ran my standard setup yesterday, 30 on 3 holes grey springs on the front, 25wt 3 holes red on back with a rear anti roll bar. I think u are too damped to be honest. Go softer and run throll bar, it stops the back collapsing over ripples and through the corners, but will allow you to generate the grip by running softer.

Yesterday was the best my car has been at Bury, and ill be running that setup at Worksop sunday.

Si

I'll try that next week, im doing my shocks tomorrow.

hello,
which result if y use the outer hole on wishbone for mounting shock (for stability of car and for jump) ?
Thanks for answer

;);)

Hi Chris,

I tried your indoor setup, worked niiice. This week, I'm going to try Matt White's setup. Between yours and Simon's, they both have been great starting blocks at the track.

My Cat is getting more in-tuned with my driving style. Thanks for the setups.