Are the tamiya springs (included in the kit) softer, harder or the same as the AE springs you used?

The rear body post is too low, you will notice when use the undertray.

I can only remember the fronts, which are softer than the AE blues but harder than AE silver (next one down from blue) from what I can remember. This is holding both springs against each other and compressing them in the hand to see which one compressed first.

is there anything I can do about the rear body post ? Have I used a wrong part ?!? seems a bit silly that the rear of the shell is so low. I really don't want to cut it again :(

I just dumped the bodyposts and use the velcro. I prefer it to clips anyway.

How is the undertray ? is it holding on ok ? I've not put mine on yet but it seems, looking at the manual, to be rather poorly attached.
The Yokomo BX has the front of the undertray under the front bumper, but the 501X is held on with tape - it just looks like it will catch on something and "peel back" in a rather nasty way, collecting dirt and grass as it goes.:eh?:

Jimmy I have used two of the screws that normaly go into the blukhead to secure the front of the undertray which has seemed to have done the job admirably, with some more screws at the rear.

Good thinking. I might try that approach also. I cut the undertray out but left a little extra up front and was going to try and tuc this under the bumper - but I think it will only cause problems now I think about it.

I have the same problem. If I race carpet with the car, I race only the upper shell. I created a new rear body posts like on the proto versions.

Can you compare the rear springs too? (tamiya vs AE green)

Looking at it, the shell seems to be designed for two heights, one low down which sits low over the cells (no vertical corallys then) and low over the slipper layshaft (which would maybe rule out some high ESCs around there)

The moulding definately gives the option of running it higher though. I really dont wanna cut half my airbrushing off :( so I will leave it high i guess

Running Vertical corally's on mine no probs, Cut the shell right along the bottom, ditched the body posts (Body posts are gay on an off road car :D) and just used the velcro!

The Body has a nice hump that even a Novak brushless with fan can sit in :)

D'oh double post!

Cheers Dunc!!!

No probs, just remember that whilst the front shaft should be a perfect fit the 43.5mm shaft is approx. 5mm too short for the rear and hence it's probably not a good idea to run it (you'll lose a lot of droop).

However, all is not lost as Yokomo appear to do a longer shaft that should be ideal for the rear:

49.6mm titanium nitride coated shock shaft #YS-5L-2T

Try this link: http://www.yokomousa.com/catalog/yok_catalog_hires.pdf

The shafts you want are on page 21, in the parts list for the MR4-BC.

:)

The screws have pi$$3d me off!

I heard of others stripping them, and I was careful not to over tighten any - but taking the screws out of the bulkheads to attach the undertray 2 stripped out totally. Bah! What is the idea of sinking in the head slightly so you get EVEN less depth for the driver than the already shallow head ?

http://www.oople.com/rc/photos/misc/crapcrews.jpg

I don't like to mix my words, so I'll say these screws are actually crap for the purpose. No way you want to be wrenching on this car in a hurry at the track and risk the screw slipping like this. After this one stripped I was super careful and put loads of pressure on the others to make sure they didn't slip, but one did.
My new 501X is tainted :(

So, my next question - anyone released a proper screw kit for this car yet ?

p.s. anyone want to buy a car I can't take apart ?

Jimmy, RC champ have done a screw kit that is for this car, I couldnt wait so I ordered the 3 racing ti screw kit for the Cyclone, most of the screws are the same and just used that instead.

break out the dremmel and a cutting disk?
i would be ,issed of to on a new car

I am just wiping my eyes still. Sniff..
I will look into those screws, thanks

Anyone know a way to get these screws out without wrecking the chassis? I know the dremel cutting disc trick but it would make a mess with these CS low profile screws.

wear the disc down first so its real small in diameter not much bigger than the screw, so it doesnt cut the chassie

Jimmy, I appreciate it's not as much use to you now, but I mentioned before on the other 501X thread a good place for stainless steel screws:

http://www.stagonset.co.uk/fasteners...=2375909_23212

Just use the parts summary in the back of the manual and away you go! They only do down to M3, but that's the vast majority in the kit. I got a set + spares for around £15 (inc P&P) and you should receive them within a couple of days. I've not come close to stripping a head yet, either on the Tamiya or my Pred.

Is there anyway way you can file/cut a slot in the head of the screw to get it out with a blade srewdriver?

Good idea carl, I might try that

Cheers dunc
I came nowhere near stripping the heads when installing them - but I couldnt beleive how tight they were to get back out! nothing I could do to stop it stripping. the driver was a tight fit and I applied proper man-pressure on it! haha