511 - 39T Gear Diff / Double Slipper
 

Hi there,

Is the correct combination for a 39T gear diff for a 511 with the upgrade kit:

54329 DB01 Gear Differential Unit
51463 TA06 Front Gear Differential

Or do I need something different/extra?

Additionally does the DB01 slipper + 501X adapted lay shaft fit in the 511 w/upgrade kit? It seems it should but it's pretty expensive to take a punt on.

Many thanks.

2 times yes

54329 DB01 Gear Differential Unit
 

No.

54329 DB01 Gear Differential Unit

This gear differential unit can be used to replace the kit-standard ball differential found in the DB-01 chassis and 511,501 chassis (items 58395 Durga and 58404 Baldre). It gives drivers another setting option to fine tune their off-road buggy to track conditions. The sealed gear unit differential can be fine tuned using different viscosity weight oils to control how fast or how slow you want the differential to behave. The higher viscosity the oil is the slower the differential is in movement. Compared to a standard ball differential, gear differentials require less maintenance cycles. The unit uses a 37T pulley as well as 12T and 20T bevel gears. In addition, Item 54311 TA06 Cross Shaft for Gear Differential Unit comes standard for greater durability. The Cup Joints included with this item are simultaneously available as Spare Parts (Item 51472).

If the TA06 gear diff fits the front, it should fit the rear as well - they are symetrical. The TA06 rear gear diff is a 52T.

Thanks Chris.

If I'm 100% honest, I'm not sure what you're telling me. I think the salient point made by Chris above is that the 51463 is a 39T pulley that fits the 54329 (DB01 diff kit). In the 511 it could be used in the front or rear.

I race the 511 upgrade set with gear diffs and TA06 39T pulleys, i also use the double slipper. I replaced the plastic gears in the gear diff with the TA06 steel gears and i replaced the black O-ring with a Koysho red O-ring.

I use a 5.5T Orion motor without problems.

Sounds like a nice set up.:thumbsup:

I was thinking you were going to use the 37T case for some reason - I didn't look up the TA06 p/n to understand ya only wanted it "guts".:bored:

A TA06 gear diff with steel gears std is about to be released as well, so that should be the best choice for the TRF511 w Upgrade Set once it is available. I believe release is in February but would need to check it to be certain.

54470 TA06 Steel gear diff unit (Front)

Yes, after a bit of reading this is pretty much what I'm looking to do, do the red rings make an appreciable difference? Did you ever even run it with the Tamiya ones?

Interestingly that item (and the rear) have been dropped from all of the Tamiya web sites recently. The references are all still in Google's cache but the live pages have been removed or changed, there's no coming soon any more either... mystery.

Thanks for the TA06 gear diff case info, I've ordered it now and even though I'm going to test the new ball diffs, I'd like to have bulletproof geared units just in case:thumbsup:

do you have a part number for the red oring Chris?

Thanks Chris - if these o-rings keep the gear diff from leaking, they're going back in!

They are coming, don't worry.

Listed here:
http://www.tamiya.com/japan/news/newitems/index.htm

Release February 23rd.

I don't have any heavy silicone oil, does anybody have any experience or comment on: 54419 Tamiya Silicone Diff. Oil #1000000 (for the front)? It's available at my LHS so is quite easy to acquire. I'm worried that it might be a little too heavy (lol - my 4 week journey has been spool -> ball -> gear) but they don't seem to have 70 or 80...

What do you guys think about x-rings (linky) or something aftermarket? If the rings are a potential sealing issue I would imagine the x variety might be better?

;) - good to know thank you sir.

Err, DJ, no - 1,000,000 for off road? No, no! That's only good for onroad - it'll all but lock up the diff.

For gear diffs:

Typical for clay and dirt.
Front: 5,000wt, 7,0000wt, 10,000wt - maybe 15,000wt
Rear: 1,000wt, 2,000wt, 3,000wt, 5,000wt - maybe 10,000wt

For carpet & astro try F12,000wt-R10,000wt.

Check out what the Durango guys run too - they run 10,000wt f/r for high traction for example - and higher!

Ah! lol at me. :blush:

Thanks for that - I thought that Tamiya used a different scale to the rest (perhaps they still do) and that 1,000,000 = 10,000 but it probably = 100,000? Too confusing.

I'll look for some 10k - thanks HeavyD! :D

So I installed the diff and slipper over the last week as the parts arrived. Everything was in good order except the clutch spring that came with the double was terrible... unusable in fact. It was uneven and didn't (couldn't) sit flat even after some aggressive compression with pliers. That went in the bin and I used the kit 511 spring which is perfect for the task.

I first set up the clutch and I had snow, wet grass and drying asphalt to use so it was perfect. Ultimately there's only one adjustment for the clutch so front and rear will always have the same action with the same pads. I'm not sure if there are alternative pads that fit but for the time being I find it works well. If alternative pads aren't available then I suppose we can adjust at the diffs.

I used 10K oil in the front diff and thank HeavyD99 for pointing out my error earlier - if I'd tried 1,000K it would have been uncontrollable. As it stands I think I'll need to drop down to 5 or 7K oil, with 10K it's so direct it does pinwheels on the inside front on high traction surfaces, lifts the outside front and flips over itself - it's mental (and a bit of fun when you learn the 'tipping point' - 90 degree turns on a dime anyone? :cool:).

The double clutch certainly helps with different diffs at either end... with the gear diff in the front it's very direct and I needed a little more slip or it would be dragging the rears too often. It's really obvious how well it works when you land front wheels first off even a small jump as the rears get traction almost immediately they make contact without trying to catch up with themselves and throwing the nose out.

To be honest, if you were running two ball diffs with similar tightness then I don't think you'd notice or benefit much from the double clutch.

This was just the first break-in run, I need to strip the drivetrain down this week and make sure it's all good but it feels tight so I'm pretty happy. I'd hoped to be able to tune the suspension as well today but as you can see it got a bit clogged up in the only area I had enough space... :D

https://dl.dropbox.com/u/10492238/511SnowedUnder_sm.jpg

The only way I could make my car look like that would be good old tar and feathers!

Hi, I decided to run my 501 and was quite impressed last week but couldn't turn in as fast as I'd like without the car becoming unstable at the back. My gear diffs have arrived but what oils would be best and should I use gear in front only and ball in back?

1st - I'd use a gear diff in the front only and keep the ball diff in the rear.

2nd - I'm using 10k oil and that does make the rear a little unstable with aggressive turns, I'd recommend 5k or 7k to start with.