Golf Mk4 leak?
 

Hi All,

Looking at buying a new car, but noticed a drip coming from the passenger side bulkhead, then dripping on to the steering rack/wishbone.

http://i54.tinypic.com/nu9nm.jpg

This gets worse if i put on the air con, but doesn't affect the way it works, it's still ice cold.

Any ideas? I would expect the air con/heater to not work if it was something other than condensation? But it is a constant drip with the engine on.

It is a 1.8t 2001 if that helps?

Thanks

I don't know where they are on Golf's, but air-con systems do have drain pipes on them to get rid of the condense produced when the air-con is running. It could just be from that. You need to see if there's a open pipe or spout that it's coming from.

Someone on here should know where they are on Golf's.

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?3238949

This shows the drain plug, so i imagine it is down there, couldn't see the drain pipe at the other end though....

hi that looks like condensation from aircon on most golfs i have worked on they dont seem to have a pipe that takes condensation passed subframe but rather dribbles onto steering rack then onto subframe then floor .

I'd say drain as well Ian, but I'm no mechanic!. Did it still leak if you turned the aircon off?

Yup its the moisture train for the heater box dont worry.
Least your seeing water as a lot wernt fitted properly an fill the passengers footwell up instead lol .

Cheers guys, i came to the same conclusion and bought it. Runs really well, 0-60 in 8.5 and 38mpg :thumbsup: Lovely leather recaros too :D
Now whether to remap for 210bhp? ;)

forge/ audi tt 225 diverter valve first, cat back exhaust then remap. :-)

Too noisy for me! Would drive me nuts on a long journey :woot:

milltek stealth systems are really quiet but give massive power gains, the boost diverter valve is a must as the standard ones the diaphram goes soft so u dont get full boost.
http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?imgur...t:429,r:13,s:0

this shows the valve also check condition of the vac hose from it to the front of the engine there always split

pretty sure the 225 DV is the same as the 150. either way both fail prematurely.

your biggest gains will be through a remap. On a 150bhp 20vt 210bhp will pretty much be the limit. Plus the cost of a remap will be near enough the same as an exhaust system anyway.

I had a 20vt lump in my mk2 golf which I'd had installed at around 200bhp and the full exhaust system didn't really increase my power much, but it did make it all work nicer and smoother.

I fitted a Bailey DV and my woosh turned into a chatter on shifting lol. I don't think you hear much of the DV if you still have the standard airbox on there as this muffles the sound. (I never had a airbox so can't comment from experience)

Cheers guys, ill have a look. It's done 100k so i wanna get the throttle body off and cleaned, air filter changed, etc.
The boost feels really nice and strong, it's more linear than harsh, i just wanna get the lag reduced below 2k rpm.

If you're thinking of changing the DV, go for the 225 or a Forge split-r dump valve, not a "dump" (to atmosphere) valve otherwise you'll get an engine management light. I dont know why Big C says that the airbox muffles the sound of the dump valve as it has nothing to do with the airbox in reality.

To gain more power I have upgraded my fuel pressure regulator (to a 4 bar version), full stainless exhaust (turbo back, non resonated) with sports cat and a remap. Currently running 215bhp and still getting an average 30-35mpg depending on how hard I drive.

Changing the air box to a cone filter will make the recurculaton valve a bit louder. I have found best results using a forge 008, they are bloody good engines i have a agu 150bhp engine that's running 319bhp with the aid of a ihi vf35 and many other bits and still on stock internals :-)