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jimmy 03-05-2006 05:08 PM

Setups!
 
Post your setups in here ! if you like! :)

Arn0 05-05-2006 05:32 PM

Blank sheet & setups for MR4BX

Blank sheet & setups for B-Max4

Not so many thing on this one but maybe the list 'll grow with time!

rcyogi 05-05-2006 08:55 PM

I ran my car for the first time yesterday and the stock setup is so good, at my local track Im not sure Im chaging anything, One thing i did was shave a little be of the front top brace to clear the belt, but I did this when i built the car since I notes it was touching.

Bastos 07-06-2006 04:21 PM

Hello


I've win a french nats with this setup.

Here :
http://mini-zone.com/download.php?lng=fr

and gallerie of the race here :
http://www.mini-zone.com/plugins/dia...fr&diapo_id=27

See you later

Cammer 11-07-2006 02:25 PM

1 Attachment(s)
If anyone is running their car on dirt and experiencing belt and pulley damage putting a piece of notched foam over the belt solved most of my problems. The batteries hold it in place.

Bathy 11-07-2006 03:07 PM

I was thinking of using a bit of cut off 'brush' to have a similar effect as your foam idea, I think I'll try to sort something out tonight, don't want a diff full of grass this weekend.

Does anyone know where I can download a blank .pdf setup sheet for the BX? (I know there is a link to a .jpg one above but I want a .pdf so i can type on my PC)

ryan 17-07-2006 08:25 PM

this is the setup i used around oswestry i loved it, it was the best 4wd car i have ever driven this setup was so dialed and handled the bumps lovely!!

front:
yokomo shocks
spring:losi silver
oil:35
piston:associated 3
camber link on shocktower: bottom in the middle
hub height: bottom hole
top of the shock absorber:middle
bottom of shock:middle

Rear:
yokomo shocks
spring: losi red
oil: 30
piston: associated 1
*upside down ballstuds by spacing up rear deck and turnung up side down i will post pics later*
top of shock: 1 hole from the inside
bottom of the shock: most droop inside

i will also post a setup sheet with this info on

hope this helps ryan:)

ryan 19-07-2006 07:01 AM

hi

i have done the setup sheet in adobe photo shop elements and have tryed to upload but the dimensions are to big, how do i shrink it??
ryan

EDIT: Here it is
http://www.oople.com/rc/photos/revie...uposwestry.jpg

jimmy 19-07-2006 09:25 AM

You can resize it in photoshop--- or email me it and I will do it and upload it for you mate.

m o o p l e a @ h o t m a i l . c o m

winehundred 16-08-2006 11:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ryan
this is the setup i used around oswestry i loved it, it was the best 4wd car i have ever driven this setup was so dialed and handled the bumps lovely!!

front:
yokomo shocks
spring:losi silver
oil:35
piston:associated 3
camber link on shocktower: bottom in the middle
hub height: bottom hole
top of the shock absorber:middle
bottom of shock:middle

Rear:
yokomo shocks
spring: losi red
oil: 30
piston: associated 1
*upside down ballstuds by spacing up rear deck and turnung up side down i will post pics later*
top of shock: 1 hole from the inside
bottom of the shock: most droop inside

i will also post a setup sheet with this info on

hope this helps ryan:)

Hi,

I tried the AE pistons with the Yokomo shocks, but they seem to be a little too narrow. I bought those pistons 10 years ago or so (they're white), maybe the present ones are different? Did someone else tried this?

Also could we compare the white Yokomo to the AE n2 and blacks to the AE n1?

Thanks for your help:)

ryan 17-08-2006 08:58 PM

hi,
the associated pistons just fit, make sure all the burs are removed and if new manually slide shaft up and down until they aren't so narrow. alos try no 2 in the front and some losi orange springs (if you can find them) also a extra short wheel base for extra grip and you could also try some 25 weight oil in the rear on less bumby or high frequency bumbs to gain more rear end grip.
ryan

Arn0 21-08-2006 10:35 PM

Blank sheet & setups for MR4BX

File update with Hiroshi Suzuki standard setup sheet, maybe interesting for some fellows looking for a starting point setup.

winehundred 10-09-2006 11:25 AM

Is it me or everybody run the 3 rear suspension mount upside down from what the manual suggests?:confused: If so, what's the benefit of that mod?

Thanks guys!

ryan 10-09-2006 03:13 PM

it's not a modification its just a adjusment. It angles the wishbone, i think running it upside down stops it digging in to the bumps, i think everybody runs it upside down.


ryan:)

winehundred 10-09-2006 10:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ryan (Post 10501)
it's not a modification its just a adjusment. It angles the wishbone, i think running it upside down stops it digging in to the bumps, i think everybody runs it upside down.


ryan:)

Thanks mate:)

Arn0 19-11-2006 09:35 PM

Document updated, blank setup sheet in pdf available!

Jimbo 02-03-2007 01:51 PM

Hey guys,
Firstly, I apologise for the long post to follow, hopefully it helps someone out!

Got no idea how many of you have an MR4BX, but over an event recently, some guys were pretty keen to know how I got my BX to handle on a fairly rutty track, red dirt , and why I wasn't continuously rebuilding diffs. I'm not going to say I'm a ledge driver, or my BX was totally dialled, but I do know it was pretty easy to drive, and reliable enough for three runs http://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_...ies/laugh2.gif .

Basically the car was setup so that it went through bumps straight on the straight and without kicking the rear out in the corners.

With a standard setup to start, the following was changed:

Yellow yokomo springs front and rear, 25wt front oil, 20 wt rear. Soft rear helped through the bumps etc, softer front actually stopped the front from catching as bad as the stock front when going through corners, which was kicking the back out.

Rear shock on inside hole on tower, settles the car in bumpy corners.

Removed the shims under front hingepin mounts at the back of the car - helped go through bumps better on power.

2 degree front toe in - helps go straight through bumps

2 degree front and rear camber - more stable through the bumps

Curved rear wing trimmed down to the first line - as in highest lip other than full, helps rear traction keeping rear down on straight, and slightly on cornering

Front belt tension on the line closest to the centre of the car - on an old belt

Rear belt tension on the first step towards the back from the middle of the adjustment, I think it is the 5th notch backwards, with a new rear belt.

Slipper reasonably loose, actually quite slow off the line, good enough to get to the corner first, but fine when rolling, helps allow use of loose belt tension and loose diffs.

Losi IFMAR Studs silver front, slightly worn Losi Step pins in the rear.
They were on 5 spoke rims, no idea if that helped (Flex or lack of, no idea)

Front diff tighter than rear.

Beware, this setup jumps terribly so may not work if you have triples etc to contend with, all I will say is the 'slap' from landing a 50 cm kicker is pronounced. But it drives well on a damp, bumpy red dirt track. The more you can down side, the better.

And as for reliability, you guys probably do this anyway, but this is what I do/have done.

rebuild the diffs before each day as a precaution, keep the bearings clean too, they sieze pretty easily.

trim the undertray as high as possible, buy some self adhesive window/door foam strip (soft stuff is best) and stick it around the top of the tray above the velcro. Also apply velcro all the way around the undertray.

Cut the body as low as possible also.

Trim the top lexan cover of the rear diff as long as possible so it sticks into the car under the bodyshell. Stick some of that foam around the belt where it goes through the front of the lexan cover, and on the graphite top plate under the belt. It can be trimmed, or the belt will eventually wear it away so it is nice and snug. Also leave the sides of the lexan top cover as large as possible to fit the top plate and use the four screws to hold it down.

Carefully trim a piece of lexan to fit the gap in front of the rear diff between the belts, and as much around it as possible. You can go as close as a couple of mm to the belt as it is pretty close to the pulley and won't move too much up and down.

Tape the gaps around the concentric housings for the rear diff under the top plate, kinda like an upside down 'U' so it goes around the diff outdrives and cover the gap across the top of the housing.

Use a fine mesh and superglue (careful, it will melt the paint if applied and moved around too much) it to the inside of the bodyshell around the cooling vents for the motor. I used the mesh from a clothes dryer lint collector on a front loading dryer. They usually come in a round disk about 30 cms across, the mesh is a fine as you'll find anywhere, and it will keep the air going through and all but the finest dust out. Any better sources I'm listening.

Form a L shaped piece of lexan or use tape to cover up the top gap above the front diff when looking down and the two holes in the front shock tower that are actually under the line of th bodyshell. Dirt will get straight in here.

Put some foam across the top of the front shock tower where the top of the lexan diff cover meets it.

Put a piece of lexan across the back of the rear diff housings.

I also mount the under tray at the back by having an L shaped piece go up and back towards the front, then screw the top of this into the rear hinge pin block holes. I then put some of the foam on the undertray floor all around where the graphite for the rear chassis plate is (avoiding the gap where it might foul with the diff). I also put a strip across on the under tray floor where the under tray goes under the front diff/hinge pin housing and where the lip on the sides starts, this stops dirt getting in when the front end bottoms out.

And finally, I slipped a piece of fuel tubing over the aerial and fitted it so it was snug just where the body rests when mounted so it fills the hole in the body.

I wonder if the Tamiya diff covers will fit somehow??

It is pretty involved, but hey, I hate rebuilding diffs at the track, so I did everything I could think of to prevent it.

Sure, it may weigh some extra, but especialy club racing, it makes this car far more manageable.

If this post is too long or irrelevant, please move it to another thread Jimmy:wtf:

And let me know if this helped.

Cheers

speedworm 13-03-2008 03:57 PM

carpet set up for MR4 BX World Edition
 
i finish 12 on 60 in French Nats with this set up:thumbsup:

http://yokomo.blogspot.com/2008/03/m...tte.html#links

speedworm 24-05-2008 02:53 PM

Setup on dirt for BX WE
 
Finish 4th during the last french championship with this set up.

http://yokomo.blogspot.com/2008/05/s...bx-we-pau.html

sosidge 26-02-2009 08:54 PM

B-MAX4 Indoor Setup
 
I hope nobody minds if I put a B-MAX4 setup in this thread... if this seems wrong then perhaps we could have a new sticky for them?

Anyway, this is the setup I settled on during the NE indoor regional series this winter. The tracks have all been multisurface with grip ranging from none to loads during the course of a single lap, and some big obstacles and tricky bumps too.

I'm not in a position to make any great claims about winning A finals (or B finals for that matter :cry:), but I found this setup easy to drive, calming the B-MAX4's steering down, improving traction and jumping, while maintaining it's lovely ride quality.

Also worth noting that I did not break a single part on the car with the exception of some front shock mounting screws (solve this by putting some spacers on before the nuts to conceal the exposed thread), and one set of rear bevel gears (my fault - mesh is CRITICAL on this car - NO backlash - make SURE the transmission rolls freely at the same time).

If you do give it a try please let me know how you find it, it would be interesting to compare notes.

DA's B-MAX4 Indoor Setup


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