Weird Behaviour
 

Hoping someone can give me a little guidance really. Only done 2 meetings so far with Nitro 8th scale, coming from an electric 10th background. Had a couple of weird issues today at NDOR. First of all is that every now and then, full throttle sticks on, this is easily correctable by applying the brakes, but obviously your not always in a position to react quickly enough. I have checked the end points on the throttle servo, and there is nothing to suggest that it is the servo is sticking on over-strain, and no signs of the needles fouling on anything either.

I am running a Picco Boost, with Savox 1258 throttle and Savox 1258 steering and Core R/C radio gear (the improved blue receiver version) I know i'm going to get some comments aimed at the "Picco" reputation lol

Also, I feel that the engine is very aggressive, it seems a little snatchy on acceleration, and a very fine line on the stick between half throttle and full throttle, there doesn't seem to be a smooth pick up, apart from messing with the throttle curve, am I right in thinking that I could try a harder clutch spring?

Sorry if I sound dumb :blush: I'm still learning lol

Cheers in advance :D

Use an elastic band from the balljoint to an appropriate point (probably round the top end needle or the air filter) so there's a bit of tension pulling the throttle linkage back to neutral.. A lot of nitro racers do this ;)

I heard this mentioned today actually, But I presumed it was just a precautionary thing for if a servo gave up, I will give it a go though :thumbsup:

With you saying, "a lot of Nitro racers do it" would I be right in thinking it is a common problem then? I did wonder though if the "cheap" radio gear plays a part in it a little :bored:

just make sure the servo arm is not worn on the splines and its jumping a tooth back and forth? does it come staright back down to idle when u brake or does it take a while?

If ur rumning a fail safe and its set up wrong i.e throttle opens nd not closes it might b that,the elastic band is more of a precaution but as someone said before it does bring the alide bk to neutral wen of power,the heavier the clutch spring the later the clutch engages so the motor will build more rpm before taking of and lightsprings make clutch bite earlier if ur runnin a 3 shoe clutch then i once used 2 heavy nf 1 light,the theory being lighter one will grab allitle just get car going nd then heacier one biting wen car is already moving.

But i will prewarn u i havent raced a nitro in over 4 yrs now so my advice could b wrong,as im sure someone on here will tell me im wromg lol

But wen i raced my rc8 thats how i had mine,set up,hope that helpa nd sorry in advance if it doeant help lol.

Jay

Yeah it settles itself straight back down, if I'm in a position to react quick enough to counter-act it. I shall check the splines later :)


Not at all, any bit of advice is helpfull advice really :) I understand your theory of the 1 soft and 2 harder springs and I will probably give it a go and see how it is then :)

Could it be over run on the engine ( not tuned quite right??) try it o the box and see if it over revs, I have had this before and it runs on into corners etc.
The end of a balloon works perfect for the carb return too and available in any colour:thumbsup:

Check your seal at the engine to exhaust manifold a leak there would cause overrun.

Shaun you also failed to mention the other problem.


.....when the fuel gets to a certain point (about quarter full) it keep cutting out. did it in two races yesterday.

Any ideas?

A crack in the fuel pickup tube inside the tank