Yes i use 5x 0.8mm yokomo droop washers in each front shock. I have also used 6x indoors on flat tracks, and 4x on bumpy outdoor, but preferred 5x.
Rear has 3x to stop shafts popping out.

It's not excessive. Ive seen similar amounts used on B44.x cars.

Ah I put too much in mine then. So 4mm is what it should be not 5mm. That explains a lot thanks. :thumbsup: Do you know what length the shock shaft is after you add those shims ? As the rod end can be screwed in more or less which will give a different droop setting also ? I have mine set at 19mm with the 5 limiters inside the shock but I could make it a lot less if I screw the rod end all the way in. I think 20mm is kit length.

Also while I remember. I see on Lee's setups he has the caster blocks modified and pushed back 2mm. Dose anyone know what that dose for the car exactly ?

Shortens the wheelbase and makes the car more stable on the low grip. I had an issue with the rear collapsing on low grip when turning and once I made this modification it was much better.

Right, I was starting to seriously doubt what I believed to be correct after this thread and it was starting to get really confusing. I decided to do some reading on the subject and also spoke to Cockers about it.

After all that:

In theory, wider = more grip, however in reality it tends to translate as more stable. Narrower = more reactive, which gives the impression of more grip, however I believe in the grand scheme it will be less.

This now makes sense. If you try the YZ2 on Astro with stock arms, you will notice that it is extremely reactive. Stick the BMAX arms on and it is far more stable and much easier to drive.

This would also make sense with the YZ2 arms on the BMAX. Less grip without making the car too sensitive.

This also explains why you found the wider arms better Neal.

Now I need to get myself some track time for testing. I do love this stuff about racing, everyday is a school day.

That's awesome, and explains it perfectly. I don't have Lee's thumbs, so less reactive is better for me ;-)

I've had the rear collapsing problem also, both on low and high grip.
I had it last the other week on batley astro when I went too low on the rear shock oil (to try and improve rear end over the bumps) but the car would just randomly hook. Going back up to 400cst made the car far more consistent again. It's fine balance of oils, spring and rollbar, but when you get the problem, the car become inconsistent.
I believe it's related to diff/outdrive height.

Did you also drill the steering block arms to move the ball end in?

What dose that do ? I have seen it done also but never could figure out what it might be for ? Would make the steering more reactive I would have thought?

Move Ackerman point back to where is is before the caster blocks are moved 2mm back.

I'm concerned that drilling them will weaken them?

I've never broken a block and been running them drilled for a few months now.

There is a web underneath from memory which keeps them pretty strong.

Yes, the arms are also drilled and made the steering far better.

All interesting stuff, any chance of sharing a picture of where you have drilled and any other mods?

Will sort some tomorrow.

Pictures as promised.

I had the block machined and then I dremelled away the sharp edge to allow the block move side to side. I also dremelled the block to allow it to go even further back than 2mm.

With the steering arm mod, please note that the titanium turnbuckles are too short and just pull out the ball cup. You will see from the pic for the steering arms I am using kit, although these can be substituted for titanium YZ2 turnbuckles.

Edit: Noticed it's not very clear in the picture of the block fitted. There are 2 x 1mm spacers shown, and at the front there is 1 x 1mm and 1 x 0.8mm spacer. I will be switching the 2 of these to get the 2mm back at the front though.

Can anyone explain the bmax 4 steering link either front or back?

I notice on lees set up its shows back yet pics show feont position??

I presume ackerman setting? I know on yz2 its a big tuning aid

Front = more aggressive steering
Back = calmer steering

Lee changes his dependent on where he is racing but majority of the time its in the front. I always run mine in the front now as the BMAX is fairly low on steering as standard.

How far from the original hole should the new hole be sited?

Someone tried the DJC on the Bmax4?

Waiting for the setup sheet from Ryan Maifield:lol::p

You will wait quite some time if for a Bmax4 III one.;)