Adjusting the 22-4 Slipper and diffs
 

The 22-4 is a bit confusing to set the diffs and slipper correctly. I want my rear as loose as possible and the front slightly tighter. On the Kyosho Lazer this is easy as you see the slipper turning when the diffs are not.

On the 22-4, you have to listen for the slipper slipping as it does not turn when the rear is slipping (unless you open it up to visually see it). For the front however, the slipper does turn when it slips.

I am not running the clicker. Just very confusing as the Lazer you can easily see the slipper slipping!

Setting the gear mesh also a challenge but, it's nice and enclosed.

Any tips from 22-4 owners to make this easier?

Simon

Not quite sure i understand your problem. the rear diffs are linked all the way to the slipper shaft so its pretty easy to check.

If you hold both front wheels so that they dont turn, then try and move both of the rear wheels. If its too lose, the diff will slip meaning that the belts wont move as the diff is slipping, you can tell because the slipper nut and shaft sticking out the side does not rotate. If the diff is tight, the belts, slipper shaft and nut will all turn, or the belts may jump a tooth.

You can do exactly the same for the front, but turn the front wheels backwards if you are running the clicker.

The tlr guys recommend you do something slightly different to check the diff tension, which they posted on you tube, i dont really like the method as it assumes your diffs are all in good condition and well built, which may not always be true in my case.

I am not seeing that behaviour - well I am with the front but not the rear. My rear diff is tight enough, even if I tighten it right down, the slipper shaft still does not rotate even when I turn both rear wheels. It's very strange. I have read someone else experienced this too.

Do you see the slipper rotating with your car?

Simon

If the slipper shaft isn't turning when you rotate the rear wheels are you getting full drive to them when you power up the motor?
Equally have you cranked up the slipper really tight so it won't slip and thus the shaft won't turn?

I normally set my diffs between a 1/3rd of a turn and the three quarters undone from being fully tight. Just pop the ball stud on the screw side, holding the opposite wheel tighten and undo to required amount.

Remember you want the slipper to slip before the diff and ideally you want to set the slipper up on the track as you'll probably find you'd want the slipper to slip more on a slippy track than a high grip one.

I understand it now after inspecting the slipper. See picture below.

The pulley that rear belt connects to will slip independently of the shaft. So when I turn both rear wheels while holding the front wheels I was expecting to see the end of the slipper shift (where the nut is screwed on) rotate. It doesn't. If it does then either 1) the belt is skipping or the front diff is slipping.

Looking at the slipper where the front belt sits, the whole shaft will slip when holding the rear wheels while turning both front wheels - this is the correct behaviour when not running the clicker as the front belt pulley is seated on the shaft and rotates with the shaft.

So setting this thing up is a pain as you can't see the slipper when adjusting it.

Hopefully this will help others.



https://abajqg.dm2303.livefilestore....all.jpg?psid=1

The slipper shaft where the nut is located will *never* rotate when the slipper is engaged for the rear of the car. It does for the front though.

See my previous post to this thread that has a picture.

Simon, just set the slipper so the nut is pretty much flush with the shaft, mines set like there since I built it & feels pretty much spot on.

Thanks John. I too have set my slipper so the nut is flush with the shaft (haven't tested it yet on the track). The problem is more around testing the diffs to ensure they are not slipping before the slipper.

The only way (without disassembling the entire drive train) is to unscrew the servo and look at the jack shaft spinning, once spinning, you know then you're rear diff is set correctly.

TLR Todd's video says nothing about this. Would be good to have a v2 video that addresses this issue.

Simon

I think your trying to think to hard about it, what you can do is set the slipper tight as you can put it back to nut flush after, then hold both front wheels between your legs, hold one back wheel & see how much effort it takes to turn the other wheel, repeat for the front by holding the rear wheels between your legs.

Then you can check them by seeing how many turns the wheel turns when you give it a spin, around 3/4-1 turn should be a good start.

I agree with john,your over thinking this. what you are trying to do is something you will be able to get basic set up of very quickly 1st time on track. do as john has said then get it on the track, you will soon be able to feel and hear what's slipping and what's not standing next to it and giving it a few blips of throtel ,depending were you use it you may want very little slipper anyway.