511 Gear Diff 54329
 

http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-db0...t-p-34347.html

Anyone tried them yet?? A few lads have tried the Spec R diffs but these seem to fail. Lets hope these are a bit stronger...........

Mine are still in the post. They have been built for the DB01 so there is no reason they won't hold up, for the price (28inc delivery for 2) it's a risk I am willing to take.

Built and installed mine last night, gears seem a bit meatier than the Spec R's will find out this weekend at the Torch Winter series. They wouldn't fit with the Fredricks covers tho but as there sealed shouldn't be a problem. Super smooth tho :thumbsup:

Good stuff, let us all know how they run and what diff oils you end up running!

Will do... a friend's been running the Spec R diffs in his 511 for a while and he recommended 7000 front 2000 rear from his set-up. So have used this as a starting set-up for now. (He's usually right) :woot:

By the way the track is Hi grip astro (but that will depend on if it rains) :thumbsup:

with mine i have a problem, i can't have the belt and the gear in the same line like i can have with the ball diff. have you this problem and how you solve it ?

for the fluid i use tamiya VG 2000 to the front and 1000 to the rear and i think it's a little bit hard for front and to soft for rear, i think to usr the 1500 to the rear.

Haven't noticed a problem with mine and all I had to do was remove the Fredriks cover and liner, will have a look. Is yours a 511?

With regards to oils, yes the front should be thicker than the rear. In the same way that generally you should run your front diff tighter on a ball diff.

i would have to disagree with this its down to personel prefrence this is not always the case

So they don't fit with the Fredrik Diff covers?

are the gears metal

Looking at the pics id say no, look like a carbon plastic.........

Gears are carbon plastics and if they hold to mod TC I see no reason why they wont hold up to mod offroad. Besides, using plastics saves a boatload of weight.

I agree that it is down to personal preference, as is any setup tip. Every bodies driving style is different therefore some setups will work and some will not work for them. I am just commenting on what I and others that I raced with have found. Dependent on the conditions and track.

No the gears aren't metal but the spindles they go on are and the teeth appear deeper. I might be wrong, as I'm going on a comment from a friend that has the Spec R diffs

No they don't fit the Fredriks cover. Because the covers line the gearbox the gear diff is too tight and not free running

We've just got some of these in stock, in the UK, very limited numbers.

But, they come at a price, £29.99 EACH.

Get in touch if you want some.

(Also, finally got a FEW 511 shells in stock too...)

Gave mine first run today. With 10000fr and 5000rr felt very similar to ball diffs, but just a touch sharper and more consistent! They were not new ball diffs I compared them to though!

One thing I think is pants, the rebuild kit doesn't include gaskets, so look after them!

Think I slightly overfilled the front one, how big a problem is it? Covering the bevel gears basically fills that half of the cup!

Having stripped the car down to take a look, one of the diffs is leaking out of one sides outdrive, what's the best way of trying to sort it?

Is it best to use more shims to pressure the oring, or is that just going to screw up the gear mesh?

Do I just change the oring and hope that fixes it? Or can I grease/glue around it?

Or just live with it? How much can leak out before I need to refill?

with mine it's hard to ajust the bearing and i can't use enouth shim to ajust the position of the diff in order to have the center off the gear in the same line with the belt, like i can do with the ball diff.

i think i'll have to much plastic, i compare with a friend car and he don't have this problem.
i'm going to pass sand paper on the plastic part and i think it will be good

Dont shim it anymore, it can strip the gears.

All I do on mine is to sand the rear of the internal gears (gently to ensure they are smooth, only takes about 30 seconds). Then build it as instructions. I do use a few parts of AE green goo for piece of mind.

I havent had any leaks since using the green goo (This was on the spec-R diff)

I since built my new Tamiya v2 ones like this and they havent leaked a drop even with thinner oil (1000 wt)

Oh and when I did at first have a leaking diff, I ran it until it didnt feel right. (which after 4 months I just changed it, and it still had quite a lot left). Even the smallest of leaks can look quite dramatic as they are doing quite a few times a second.

Cheers guys, I did my best to flatten the rears of the gears, maybe not enough though, or maybe I went too far on one with my knife, might that be it?

I don't think that it would make much of a difference, although maybe if the cut misshaped the gear a tad it might act like a ship prop and pull more oil behind it.. although that's really unlikely.(I'm going off at a tangent)

Also if its filled too much it could leak.

The other thing thats important is to ensure when its screwed together that you screw it on in a cross pattern as if the two parts don't close in a true manor that could let some oil out.

Again, I would just rebuild and use the green goo liberally on parts that you think could leak and go from there.