DEX210 - droop screws
 

Anyone ran/running without them? Better or worse?

Thanks in advance :)

We've only ever run without them tbh and have never felt the need to reduce droop front or rear .... and that includes running indoors on carpet/polish and outdoors on astro .... cars awesome everywhere .... think I've said that before :)

I found tuning the car with droop screws useful when trying to get the car to change direction more quickly on indoor astro. A little goes a long way I have found. Obviously alot quicker and easier than putting shock limiters in....

The droop screws fell out of my car and driveshafts kept on falling out
As soon as I replaced the screws it was fine

sorry guys, bringing back this to the surface... it's shocking that there is so little setup info on droop for the dingo, given that it's one of the only cars on the market that helps you NOT mess with f'n inside oily spacers!!!

Anyone's got a good starting point, and can explain where/how to measure the numbers (under the arm angle, under the arm tip, under the axle, etc...). I've just finished the car and won't have any practice before raceday saturday morning (100 entries)

That's one key thing to tune weight transfer with... good fingers can compensate for this but it'd be a shame to not use them...

thanks!

Paul

Hi Paul,

Best way to measure is from the top of the head of the screw to the wishbone. It the easiest to measure repeatably.

The droop info for the set-up sheet is being added to the next on-line update which should be out soon. It was an unfortunate ommisson and also occures on the SC and ST which is what brought it to light.

In General
More droop = Better over the bumps and jumps.

Less droop = Faster change in direction.

More front droop = more traction (greater weight transfer to the rear)
Less front droop = more on power (Less weight transfer to the rear)

niiice, some quality info from the TD Team Mgr :) appreciate it, sir :)

The car is just freshly built. Its maiden run will be qualifier #1 saturday morning in the first indoor race of the season. We (100 entries) run the wrong (spec) tires on a tight track that is 90% (med-grip carpet) 10% polished floor (school gym) and built just for the day. I run MM4, 10.5 slightly boosted.

Any base (that'll do for now) suggestion(s) where to start from other than "full droop" which is what I read in most places (and which is nonsense given how sensitive other 2wds are to inner spacers...)? we usually run pretty sizeable jumps (see a past layout here, not our best though)

http://www.ermcgs.com/wp-content/upl...-2-600x356.jpg

I also speak "chassis rise" (the "sensible" way to measure droop...) as long as you can confirm the ride height :)

Thanks for any help :)

Paul

I normally have the rear screws about 1mm proud of the rear wishbone when running 3 degree Anti squat. If you change anti squat you'll need to re-adjust the droop.

Front ones I normally have about 2mm proud of the wishbone.
For a complete base set-up check Nathan Waters / Craig Collinson / and Chris Doughtys from the first round of the Schumacher indoor masters.

These will give you 3 set-ups for the same track. The track is not quite the same but the set-ups they use here work with little tweaks at most other places.

A lot will be down to driving style and track on the day.

thank you!!!

agree! but being somewhere close to the tuning window is already a lot of time saved as opposed to having the car flapping back and forth at the slightest throttle input :D

thank you!
Paul

Just a note. When running the longer plastic chassis you'll find that rear droop is dramatically reduced in comparison to the standard chassis. I removed the screws and got exactly the same droop as the old chassis with the screws in but fully tightened.

The droop settings that some people give may be a bit misleading as there are two types of wishbones.
The early type have the head of screw proud of the wishbone and the later wishbones have the screw recessed into the wishbone, giving quite considerable droop differences with the "screws all the way in" or "maximum droop"!!

which is why the only "correct" droop setup info is (chassis rise + ride height) ... the rest depends on too many suspension parts designs/setup/shims ;)

paul