Dex410 V3 2wd conversion
 

Hiya,
I have 2 dex410's and would like to convert one to 2wd as a fill for running 2wd as a second class at meetings so I'm not waiting around. I don't intend to be competative as 4wd is my favoured class.
What would I need to do to convert??? Would I just remove front centre drive, diff, front drive shafts at the CVD joint what effect would it have on the centre slipper ???
Has anyone done this? Can anyone advise me thank you

For a basic 2wd conversion (ie one that can be put back v.quickly)

Remove front diff (inc casing)
Remove front driveshafts, leaving only the stub axles.
Slipper on a v3 is locked front to back so probably a touch looser should do.
Couple of mm of washers under the front hanger will give you a bit more kick up.
If you have the side and rear weights put them on.

Cheers
 

Thanks Charlesk,
So the slipper remains intact but the front driveshaft is removed ? Why the extra weight?? surely the loss of the diff, skinny wheels and front DS would make it rear heavy as I will still be running saddles.
What motor I have a spare HW 120a and a speed passion 7.5T motor would these suit?

Cheers

V3 slipper as it is.
The extra weight helps since even with the removal of the diff the car has still got a 4wd bias. If you have the weights put them in, they help with traction, if not don't and see how you get on.
Esc and motor should be fine, I run Sp7.5t on my 2wds. Obviously track and driving style dependent but should be a good starting point.

The 410 is already fairly rear light. As it was designed around slightly heavier batteries.

I ran without the front drive train a couple of times indoors, once with 4wd front wheels, once with 2wd. It's actually not bad at all.

With a bit of playing on the front end geometry and shocks I reckon it could be pretty rapid.

But I picked up a Cobra conversion instead, so my spare, 2wd 410 has been dismantled and sent to the spares box.

I'd have to recommend the Cobra conversion too. It uses the centre mount and entire rear end of a 410, but with a 210 front end (you can easily get a 210 going cheap - and even ebay off the unneeded gearbox).
I'm really impressed with mine, and if you've already got a 210 and 410 it costs peanuts - £30 for the chassis and £12 for the shell. You'll need a shorty lipo too.

Done mine , now Ill have a look at adding a bit more weight to the rear.
I weighed my B5 befoer I sold it and that had F@350gm and B@500gms
Have yet to weigh the 2-410

I know that I can get 10gms on each rear hub and maybe a bit of lead or brass behind the saddles or under (shim up the rear diff loop)

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...817_181132.jpg

I've still got that half finished behind the lipo weight in my tool box. Not been able to switch the dremel on for a few weeks or i'll wake the kids..... You can have that as a starter.

I managed to get some extra weight in there now.
20gm under rear diff
49gms behind the lipos (7x7gms)
10gms on each rear hub

Now the weights are 380gmF 500gmsR

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...818_164406.jpg

I cut those 2 lipo braces in the rear so I didnt have to cut the weights

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...818_164418.jpg

did you try it without the weight
as the weight on the hub is unsprung and will act differently

Not tried anything yet as it's wet here. I'll try it without when I get out to drive it

Tried it at the weekend and it worked really well, I preferred it more than the 210.