210 on power push help please
 

HI wise ones
I tested my 210 today with a bit of a different setup to try and help with on power push that I have suffered with.

I still have it and its really annoying so any help is appreciated.

First this is the track so small carpet with a lot of 180° etc
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DgRPOORoRv8

We are also using slicks with addative

My setup
210 V1 with +11rdrp chassis
under servo weight

Front end
2x1.1+2x1.5 40tlr yellow spring
Middle tower out arm
3 trailing with 4mm shims
upper outer rdrp c hubs @approx stock i think + 3mm inside under ball
6mm bumpsteer
25°

Rear end
2x1.2+2x1.6 27.5tlr light blue
middle tower inside arm
2hole in on hub 1mm under inside under ball
0 toe in insert which makes 3.5?
asquat tresrey 1.5
short wheel base

RM3
LRP 7.5
Slipper pretty hard
gear diff with black grease
low punch, no timing/boost
81/22

I ran it last year even with mm4 as well and had a pretty generic setup as well but still had on power push

Any tips before I go back to the generic setup again.

Thanks

try 35 degrees caster brass bulkhead and dark blue front springs

the weight stops it under steering, the caster compensates for the reduced turn cos of the extra weight, and the blue front springs makes it easier to drive

if you are still lacking steering lengthen the wheel base

and if you are still lacking steering move the rear shocks out one hole at the bottom

Will try it thanks

Try limiting your front droop so the front end raises less on power.

I'd start with a big less droop, then a bit of nose weight, then a slightly stiffer rear spring, I wouldn't make wholesale changes yet

personally, i would run the black or dark green front spring, probably run MM4, i wouldnt add weight as it will help on power but will make the car lazier and on a track that is as tight as that you need it to be twitchy'er, limit front droop, 30* castor, i struggled on power with 25* castor,

On the v1 car i always liked outside on the tower, and outside on the arm, although it doesnt seem it would help on power, it gives the closest effect to the new straight arms on the v2

1.6*3 pistons all round 50wt front 30'ish rear or 1.6*2 front 35wt 1.7*2 rear 27.5wt work well!

Considering the tight track and the fact there's enough bite:

- Get rid of the +11, run the stock alu chassis instead - the small corners require a short chassis for agility :)
- Start out using 50g of weight at the front end (under servo, above servo, brass bulkhead, etc). With more weight up front, the amount of front axle load is higher, so the increase and decrease in wheel load from acceleration and deceleration should have less impact.
- Use mid to long wheelbase shimming on the rear arms - this is purely to reduce the rear motor overhang. That, or run mid-motor on medium to short rear arm/wheelbase shimming.
- Remove some rear droop (so when the wheels just touch the ground, the chassis is nearly level) - this will make the rear end looser both on and off-power.
- Put the rear shocks more upright on the tower - it will make the rear end lean in less.
- Use 3 degrees anti-squat - It helps to keep tighter lines on-power (by preventing the rear end from building up as much rear axle load).

Thanks next try is sunday or wednesday ill test a few things

I do remember having great steering when I tried the car when it was released and that was on the stock chassis.

Well I tried it today and it was much better thanks all
I think a big difference was going back to the stock chassis as our track is super tight.
Ill look at getting to another larger track and trying the same setup as well as using the +11 there.

NO the other thing I have been soing is using the 410 as a 2wd... WOW I don't have on power push with that. The arse end wants to drive around the front end.

All I need to do is steer and go easy on the gas, helped a lot going from the 6.5 I had to a 8.5

The rear over rotates a lot. Im now thinking about weighing it down a little or which end will a rollbar help
I do like it and I really think that it will be a great car to race but I wouldn't mind calming it down a little

Any tips for this one?

Hi OneKiwi,

I think also a 410 2wd could work very well, espacially on carpet tracks!
But when i was at the Eos last round here in austria, i saw jorns car a bit closer and i think, there was a bit more front kick up, than on the 4wd 410?
And i think, when he was changing the battery, i saw, that he had a shorty layout, with the motor in the back, like the tc2, but i'm not sure!?
And he was usin alot of waight in the back, too.

When you look at the xb4 and the xb4 2wd chassis, there is also more kick up at the 2wd.

May this help a bit?:rolleyes:

That does look like more kick in the front.

Would been interesting to see some under the body shots but I know they won't be circulating.

Id really like to have the rear chassis that wide, have a little more room for the electrics and airflow.

Would be cool if they came out with something like that. I know they need to test etc and they aren't a huge company but they are juggling a lot of balls.

Ive gone back to the 210 as its just a bit more lively.
The track got cleaned so its not as gripy as it was last time I drove. I still have a bit of on power puch but Ill work through the thoughts given here thanks.

I also have a little less turn in than I want but presume the lacking grip is doing that as its a tight turn at the end of the straight.

I did go from 4 trailing +4mm to 3 trailing +4mm and it was better.

What are people using in their diffs? Atm I have black grease but im diffing out a lot. Im looking at going up but doing so won't really help the on power push will it?

Im thinking about the 210v2 as well, whos driven that and is it a big step up?

Gear diff? 2k
If you want more steering. Shorten wheelbase, rear hubs forward. 25 degree caster (use 0 insert in the caster block) 3 antisquat.
Less front droop, max rear droop. Add weight to the front behind the servo. Battery full forward.

25 degree caster wont help on power