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Old 03-05-2006
BluesFan BluesFan is offline
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: St. Louis, MO, USA
Posts: 38
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I've been painting my r/c shells for the past 3 years now and I've almost exclusively gone to using liquid masking. I'd prefer using vinyl, but I don't have one of those plotter/cutter things. Sooooo, if I couldn't have a mask pre-cut on vinyl, that leaves either using liquid mask or masking tape. I evenutally went with liquid mask since I could see through it and it made it much easier to cut correctly. To each his own I guess. Masking tape works extremely well as you can see from the other paint jobs in this forum. I just wanted to make mention that liquid mask (only Bob Diveley's BTW) works extremely well, but you must be patient with it. First of all, it doesn't take multiple coats to work well. One coat is all you need. One THICK coat. Slobber the stuff on the body a good 3-4mm thick. It'll dry to about 1.5mm thick. Secondly, don't try to cut it until it is COMPLETELY DRY. Too many times I find people get super frustrated with it and it hasn't even dried yet. 48 hours is the minimum I'll wait for the masking to dry. The only way this time can be expidited is on a hot sunny day. Leaving a body with liquid mask out in the sun can cut off about 12 hours of drying time, but that's it. If it is very humid inside my house, I'll wait in upwards of a week for the masking to completely dry. Lastly, don't try to shorten the drying time by using a hair dryer. That'll cause the water in the masking to boil. Once the surface of the masking forms a 'skin', the water underneath will boil and form a lot of bubbles. Your lines won't be nearly as clean when you cut. Anyways, that's my technique. Here below you'll see a painting sample of mine for my gas truck. It was completely done with only liquid mask. I'm not the best by any means, but I'm usually pleased with the results.



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