[AmiSMB]

Here is what I do:

• Change the plastic servo horn for an aluminium one as the plastic one will strip on a hard impact. If you do this make sure you are running a good metal geared servo
  
• Change all orange o-rings in the shocks for the blue pro o-rings for less stick-tion
  
• Drill out the bleed hole in the plastic shock cap with a 1.9mm drill and use a M2.5 x 4mm socket button screw
  
• Change the slipper pads for AE ones as I find them more consistent
  
• Use the newer slipper spring (gold in colour) this should be included in newer kits
  
• Change the 83T spur for an 82T and then run a 6.5 with 21T pinion so it is similar to the way I ran the KF2 with a 76/24
  
• Change the front and rear camber link turnbuckles for longer ones
  
• Put standard non captive ball and ball end on rear camber link which goes onto the rear hub otherwise the wheels tend to rub on the captive one.
  
• Run LCG Shorty lipo with 36g brass underneath
  
• Always run the brass weight at the front underneath the servo
  
• Ultra long ball stud in the rear shock tower to space rear shocks 2 to 3mm further forward
  
• Put in metal washers around the yoke and steering hub carrier to eliminate any slop.
  
• Use a small amount of nail varnish on the inside and outside faces of any bearing on the car to increase the tolerance fit so that the bearing has to rotate rather than rotating in its housing and ends up seized as it has not moved. Also improves any slop especially axles into hubs. You can do this with super/tyre glue but it is too easy to use too much and to put the bearings in before the glue has dried so it is now stuck, so nail varnish is safer.
  
• Carbon chassis with carbon and alloy stiffeners, 5 degree yoke, stiff wishbones all round, 4/1.5 degree toe in blocks installed for 1.5 degree rear toe when on carpet indoors or kit 3/2.5 installed for 2.5 degree rear toe on dry astro increase to 3 degree max is more lock in is needed in the rear, 2 to 3mm limiters inside the shocks, 600cst kit piston orange spring front 500cst kit piston blue spring rear reduce the oil by 50cst outdoors, shock tower front mounted, gear diff with 7k to 12.5k oil depending on track, motor in position 2
  
• Alloy chassis with carbon stiffeners, 0 degree yoke, medium wishbones all round, 3/2.5 toe blocks installed for 3 degree rear toe and use 3.5 brass rear toe block or +1 alloy rear hubs, KD kit pistons with 300cst oil and green springs all round, shock tower mounted rear, ball diff, motor position 4 when outdoors on wet/damp astro

The only items I would change that could break in a race are

• Alloy steering centre track rod
• Alloy steering hub carrier
• Alloy yoke in 0 or 5 degree

Spares to carry are the usual

• Screws
• Belts
• Diff
• 5x10x4 bearings
• Wishbones front and rear
• Hinge pins inner and outer
• Plenty of tyres as this can make the biggest difference

HTH