I have a theory with setting up this car, and being so tuneable it is possible - not possible with ANY other chassis I am aware of.
My theory is also basic because it focus's on single area's of the car to deal with specific characteristics on the track without mixing up one area with another. Therefore the car can be tuned to be perfect as long as you can identify what the car is doing and what you want from it.
1st. To setup the car to go over the bumps, jumps and landings, dial in the shocks to suit. Oil, piston and spring. (wing size for in air)
2nd. To setup the amount of turn in the car has, change the ackerman link to suit. Longer = more initial steering. Don't make big changes at a time. Start with bellcranks parallel. Kit setting ok 8mm leaves the bellcranks pointing in (too short).
3rd. To setup the amount of side bite through & exiting the corner, change the geometry - rear toe in, camber, camber link height & length.
4th. To setup the amount of straight line traction, change Diff height, rear pin height and antisquat. (generally want maximum traction)
5th. To setup the amount of corner exit traction, choose diff, diff + roller, or one way. (generally one way everywhere for maximum traction)
I have setup my car by focusing on 1 then 2, then 3 & 4 together, and finally 5. The result is awesome. Some of the decisions made in early steps will effect the result of later steps, but by focusing sections of the setup on particular characteristics then the result is uncompromised!!
Granted I have skipped a few areas such as wheelbase, camber link length, front castor and width, but like anything - to follow the above you will need an understanding of what does what in terms of setup (in which case, if unsure, copy my setup in the setups section then tell me (PM) how it feels and what you want it to do differently and i'll make some recommendations)
I love setting up this car as it is so easy to understand, and it responds as it should to every change.
Chris