Some impressions from my XMW build.
* Dont mix up the 5mm shim used in the ball diff with the one used on the layshaft. I went for the geardiff and didnt pay attention and ended up with a tight gearbox.
* Plastic gears are supplied for the gear diff but the cross is metal. I dont trust plastic diff gears in a offroad car and got metal ones (54428) instead. The o-rings are also the crappy black ones, fitted Kyosho red in mine.
* As always with Tamiya cars crappy diff balls are supplied but the diff plates are improved alloy ones. Go for tungsten carbide balls instead (54226) and an Avid/Casper 2.6mm thrust bearing.
* The left rear camber link sits awfully close the gear cover and will limit the use of all but the rear holes on rear hubs. This will mainly affect those that wants use alu hubs. (Carbon plastic is preferred anyway).
* Wing mounts are the weak ones from the 201. But holes are drilled for the more durable 501/511/503 mounts (51271) aswell.
* Slipper pads -> switch to AE yellows as always.
* Gearing options are very limited for mod motors. The upper motor mount screw hits the spur gear when going below 22T pinion.
* Front bulkhead is plastic. The 201/Vega has always needed weight in the nose before so fitted weight block (54439) to mine.
* Orient the flat part of the front battery posts towards the rear so you might actually have a chance to get the saddle pack in.
* If built per instruction rear shocks will end up with an extreme amount of drop. I put 2 mm in mine to start with for a 21 mm rideheight. Also put a o-ring on the shock shaft to limit uptravel and prevent driveshaft from hitting the outdrive.
A heads up for those who wants to get titanium screws for the car, rcmart has a sale on Tamiya TRF 201 Titanium Screw Set:
http://www.rcmart.com/tamiya-84126-t...h=595_744_1468 20$ shipped.