[Allan1875]

Originally Posted by AmiSMB

Here is what I do:

• Change all orange o-rings in the shocks for the blue pro o-rings for less stick-tion - The blue o-rings tend to leak, leave as kit.
• Change the 83T spur for an 82T and then run a 6.5 with 21T pinion so it is similar to the way I ran the KF2 with a 76/24 - Don't really see the point in this, not required.
• Change the front and rear camber link turnbuckles for longer ones - Don't see any requirement for this either, the kit ones are fine.
• Run LCG Shorty lipo with 36g brass underneath - This depends on many things like layout and surface you are racing on.
• Always run the brass weight at the front underneath the servo - As above, surface dependent, should not be run everywhere.
• Put in metal washers around the yoke and steering hub carrier to eliminate any slop. - Not necessary, every car has slop and this makes changing setup more time consuming. Quick clips are very handy.
• Carbon chassis with carbon and alloy stiffeners, 5 degree yoke, stiff wishbones all round, 4/1.5 degree toe in blocks installed for 1.5 degree rear toe when on carpet indoors or kit 3/2.5 installed for 2.5 degree rear toe on dry astro increase to 3 degree max is more lock in is needed in the rear, 2 to 3mm limiters inside the shocks, 600cst kit piston orange spring front 500cst kit piston blue spring rear reduce the oil by 50cst outdoors, shock tower front mounted, gear diff with 7k to 12.5k oil depending on track, motor in position 2 - Some of this is accurate but not all. Carbon chassis won't work on every surface, for example on a bumpy surface, carbon chassis tend to make cars very inconsistent. Position 2 is also only good on carpet, on a sandy astro it won't be good, so Pos 3 or 4 is required. Specific setup needs to be adapted per track and can't be covered by a catch all setup. This goes with the shock limiters too. If you limit them too much on bumpy surfaces, car will not be good to drive. That amount of limiters you have quoted is only really good for a flat surface. Refer to team setup sheets as a guide on shock shaft length.
• Alloy chassis with carbon stiffeners, 0 degree yoke, medium wishbones all round, 3/2.5 toe blocks installed for 3 degree rear toe and use 3.5 brass rear toe block or +1 alloy rear hubs, KD kit pistons with 300cst oil and green springs all round, shock tower mounted rear, ball diff, motor position 4 when outdoors on wet/damp astro - See above.

HTH

Please see above. The bits I don't agree with I have annotated. This isn't a criticism, it was a very well thought out and helpful post and I just don't want anyone getting the wrong information.