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Old 26-03-2018
AmiSMB AmiSMB is offline
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Bracklesham Bay, West Sussex
Posts: 1,375
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My post was not supposed to be the be all and end all or one size fits all, but hopefully people can take some useful information from it.

What I will say though is that the pro o-ring trick was shown to me by a well known Schumacher team driver and he did my shocks for me at the Belgium GP and it made a massive difference. This sort of thing is not specified on setup sheets so when you see their oil weights it may not be the same when you fill your shocks.

The standard length of all the upper camber links are too short for my liking as I like to have more thread inside the plastic especially when running long links otherwise in a hard crash you will find the ball ends jumping threads meaning the camber settings will need to be changed for the next run.

Maybe I should have also mentioned that I also wrote the post with the fact that I have two KC cars one in pos 2 for carpet, dry astro and the other one is in pos 4 for sandy/damp low grip conditions. This helps as there is no way you could make all the required changes to one car if the track conditions change during the days racing. Hope that puts the post more in context.

A couple of things I forgot to mention and you can take it or leave it and that is:-

Put an o-ring underneath the ball stud which does two things and that is it keeps dirt getting between the plastic ball end and the ballstud, usually do this to the wet car, it also pushes the ball joint away from the ball stud slightly which can help eliminate slop which is a problem with the standard plastic ball ends.

If you have issues with sloppy standard ball ends which also pop off easily then I change them for Losi HD ball ends
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