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#1
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Hobao H2 Pro Anti Squat and 5 deg front mod...
Hi folks.
My first post here. I built the above buggy a little bit 'blind' - so I'm building a second one with hindsight! I was just wondering if somebody can explain to me 1) The pro kit has a 5 degree taper wedge (optional) which effectively adjusts the angle of the front arms. The thing is - which way should it go, and what are the effects? Thick end at the front, making the angle more severe, or thick end at the back making the front flatter? 2) Anti squat blocks. These are not detailed at all in the manual. I simply picked some that fitted and wedged them in there but apparently, they have a purpose. Can anybody explain to me how these should be fitted and again, the effect they have. Finally, I noted when racing with some of the big boys that the turn in and grip they appear to have on the surface (carpeted) is immense compared to mine. Their front ends just turn in so sharply, ang grip. The back end just follows. No idea how they achieve this but I'm trying to learn. My H2 is set up as per the manual. We always race on carpet. Suggestions please??? Thanks. Rob (UK). |
#2
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Hi I've not seen an h2 close up, at a guess the 5 deg wedge would give you 25 or 30 deg front kick up, depending on orientation.
25 being less of an angle, giving more initial steering into a corner and less on power or out of a corner. 30 deg being more of an angle and would be more calm entry to a corner with more on power steering. As for the anti-squat, (leading edge of the rear wishbone higher than the trailing edge so put it simply) your user manual should give you some options from 0 deg (flat) to maybe 3 deg, this will change the rotation in the corner or pivot, start with 2 deg and forget about it. As for the other cars going around with ultimate grip, look at their cars, they will probably be running a different chassis lay-out to you. your car is a more traditional lay out so it's a great all rounder, don't worry about it if you're just getting started. Hope that helped |
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Ref the cornering, do you have a budget servo? Do you have a servo saver?
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Nortech is ACE! |
#4
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Remember the plan with this buggy is to fix the issues with the first one so it's a blank cavas therefore all input it greatly appreciated at this stage. This may well become a h2 build thread! |
#5
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Have a read of the Hobao section on here:
This thread has lots of useful info in it ref anti squat http://www.oople.com/forums/showthre...ighlight=Hobao To beef up the car I would get some losi 22 caster blocks and hubs and the rest is pretty good, great little car for the money |
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Quote:
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Nortech is ACE! |
#7
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No.
Why...? |
#8
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On a lot of cars the stock servo saver is simply not strong enough so when you turn in on a high grip track the servo saver robs you of turn in as it 'slips'. This can then lead to mid corner hook when the steering unloads and the steering lock Catches up with the servo.
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Nortech is ACE! |
#9
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That makes sense...
Thanks. Nope. No servo saver in there... |
#10
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Hello. Love my h2, raced it for 2 years now indoor on carpet.
Few things to try: Car has too much rear end grip for carpet on mini pins. 4 degree rear toe I think is too much. Short camber links front and rear - more reactive car good for Indoor Check your radio epa- max servo through. Long wheelbase more steering / less rear grip. Batt forward if shorty. Run wedge in negative 5 degrees for 30 deg caster (less kick up) better turn in. I still haven't worked out how to adjust the anti squat so have left it at 3 degrees, any other setting seems to bend the chassis! If all else fails just run mini pins up front! Man tyres!! Good luck. |
#11
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Ps. -2 degree camber front and rear. That with short camber links and 18mm ride height for carpet
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#12
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Download the hudy set up manual. That'll help.
Lots of hints and tips for set up. |
#13
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#14
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Quote:
2) 4 deg toe in - is this the default setup as per the manual (which is what mine is set at) - I dont have a rig to check my angles - any suggestions? or do I need to purchase? 3) Short camber links - I assume you mean to get max steering throw. Done. 4) Radio EPA - checked - Maxed out 5) LWB - yes - already set this 6) Not running shortys 7) Adjusted wedge the other day to neg 5 deg - flatter front arms - I guess this is 30 deg - std would be 25 deg and if I put the wedge in the other way (more kick up) 20 deg? 8) Anti squat seems like a dark art and a PITA to adjust on these cars as all the back end falls apart - not sure what mine is set to but I need to check. 9) Pins on front - all my pins are on 12mm Hex for my other buggys. As I discovered earlier today they wont go onto these stupid Hobo wheels. I do have a spare H2 kit though so could buy some more pins and glue those bad boys onto some H2 fronts. Either that or change the front Hex mounts for 12mm somehow??? Sorry for so many questions. Im a bit of a noob (but not quite) and learning fast! Your help is appreciated. |
#15
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Ahh right , prob just having trouble with turn in due to running kit tyres? For carpet try schummacher mini pin rear and low profile cut staggers (no foam insert) on the front both in yellow compound. If you still want more steering put yellow mini pins on the front.
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#16
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Too many RC cars, not one working well! |
#17
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I've fitted the low profile cut staggers onto a new set of hobao wheels.
They seemed a really weird fit. They went on and I've glued them - does everybody else glue these? Im not happy with the fit at all. They just about went onto the wheel but dont seem to sit right for the gluing. Seems like they just dont fit right and the glue has taken in places and not others...
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Too many RC cars, not one working well! |
#18
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Quote:
Tyres seem out of shape on the rims - running out really badly wobbling all over the place on throttle. I can only assume this is because I havent used any inserts as suggested and therefore nothing is pushing the tyre bead onto the lip of the wheel. They dont fill out the full width of the wheel properly. Just doesnt seem that the Schumacher Low Profile Yellow Cut Staggers fit these hobao front wheels very well at all. The kit tyres went onto the kit wheels a treat and glued on with no fuss whatsoever. These things have ended up a right mess and will probably end up in the bin. Has anybody else had this? They just dont seem to fit well and if there's one thing I hate its wasting money.
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Too many RC cars, not one working well! |
#19
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images.jpg Like this , you can trim the wheel excess off but not really necessary. Trim a very small bit of the tyre bead with scissors too if its a bit tight. |
#20
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Thank you. I managed to salvage the badly glued set with the aid of a scalpal. Fortunately the outer facing edge was glued fine on both, it was the stretched inner that was running out. I've re-glued only using 4 dabs of cyano for now just to get them fixed in place and will glue them 'proper' as the day goes on. I've attached them to the model and given them a quick finger-spin and they look 100% better. Seems to me there's no point in worrying obout caster and camber etc if the tyres aren't running true. Thaks again! Rob. Thanks again. Rob.
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Too many RC cars, not one working well! |
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