|
||
|
 |
|
||||||||||||||||||
|
#3
15-11-2007
|
||||
|
||||
when looking in the b44 instructions it shows the diffs an loads of settings. bit i dont know wot they all mean as it doesnt have very good descriptions.
i know how you normally set a diff tight then an 1/8th bac but im confused 
|
|
#4
15-11-2007
|
||||
|
||||
|
I have only ever seen two ways of adjusting a ball diff.
One is with a screw/nut/spring that sets the pressure. The other is with spring washers which is something Tamiya did with their older cars. But in reality these diffs were not adjustable, if you removed a spring washer it would be far too loose. It would be neat if somoene would come up with a notched adjuster or similar so you would always get the same pressure setting, or a series of different pressure springs that would go in a fixed diff so you could set your diff the same every time. Unfortunately nobody has done. So I assume the B44 just needs tightening and loosening by 1/8th of a turn at a time, just like all the other diffs on the market. I'm actually surprised we aren't seeing cars return to gear diffs (but nitro style with seals and oil), brushless power now is ample so I don't think you need the efficiency gains so much in mod racing. I know I would change most of my ball diffs to gear diffs given the chance! Ball diffs are a pain in the backside most of the time...
|
|
#5
15-11-2007
|
||||
|
||||
|
He means how tight should he have the screw as it says tighten fully then turn back how much you want but he is unsure how tight it should be.
A
__________________
Ashley Williams I always thought by 2013 we would have flying cars, but we have got blankets with sleeves!
|
|
#6
16-11-2007
|
||||
|
||||
|
a ball diff is supposed to act as a limited slip diff, so it should feel slightly notchy/stiff, there not made as a tuning aid in the way of, back it of or tighten it up to make it do something else,
__________________
Mattys the driver,my names carl
|
|
#7
16-11-2007
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
It is pressure on the balls that stops the slip (in this case, too much difference in output speed on either side, a limited slip diff on a real car does not actually "slip" in the everyday sense). Notchiness is caused by wear, poor material choice or poor design. Frankly the ball diffs in most cars are not up to the job now. Which is why people spend aeons messing around with different material balls, different greases and different settings instead of just building them and running them. When Cecil Schumacher designed the ball diff and started an RC legend he made it for a lightweight Mardave on-road car with a silver can motor! And the same design is expected to be reliable in car with 1/2 hp that is running in all conditions, with the diffs exposed to dirt in half the cars on the market? Stiff - yes. Notchy - no. Smooth - absolutely always.
|
|
#10
16-11-2007
|
||||
|
||||
|
i meant stiff, not notchy , notchy was the wrong word to use, they should be freeish, but not crown wheel free, and they are supposed to be, in there action, as a mind limited slip
__________________
Mattys the driver,my names carl
|
|
#11
16-11-2007
|
||||
|
||||
|
Building a ball diff with decent parts and greases you should also be able to build it free enough to spin like a gear diff without it slipping. It then has the advantage in that you can adjust it to stiffen it up if needed.
And if the diff is notchy it needs rebuilding. 
__________________
Visit my showroom
|
|
#14
21-11-2007
|
||||
|
||||
|
That is the usual method for an AE diff. It works for loads of people, though it has always made me wonder if you could flat spot the plates by doing it all the way up.
Personally (2wd diff now) I do it up until you feel the sprng biting in, then put in car with slipper locked and tighten until the diff does not slip, then back slipper off to usual setting so the should always spin before the diff slips.
__________________
 Nortech is ACE!
|
|
#15
21-11-2007
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
When I tighten a diff, I do it hand tight until you can feel the resistance get firmer, not bursting a blood vessel tight. 1/8 turn back seems to work most of the time. I just do a spin of the wheels by hand, then try to make it slip as a test to see if it needs attention again..
|
|
#16
21-11-2007
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
 that once a diff slips in the slightest its on its way to being fu bared as the balls dig into the plates when they slip making a grove, followed buy a rebuild
__________________
Mattys the driver,my names carl
|
|
#17
21-11-2007
|
||||
|
||||
|
i know about the normal setup i have got it set to taht. im just wondering lookin at the diagram if i set it to another setting abit looser or something it would now put the power down the same. im thinkin just at the front end. if i losened it would it limit the amount of power sent to the front wheels giving the car a totally different drive.
also just off the top of my head could you build the diff differenly such as not putting the same amount of diff balls.
|
|
#18
22-11-2007
|
||||
|
||||
|
I would say that adding fewer diff balls would be a no-no as I would imagine they calculate the characteristics of the balls and recommend an optimum for wear, heat dissipation, etc. Nothing stops you from doing it but the balls will wear out quicker and your diff as a whole might not last as long.
I thought that generally people run tighter in the front for more pulling power around corners in most if not all conditions but I am no expert  
|
|
#20
22-11-2007
|
||||
|
||||
|
yes.. but then you will have more turn in as it will have more of a centre one way effect.
|
 |
|
|
Team Associated
Linear Mode
