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#1
11-01-2010
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what bits in a truggy?
ive just bought a xray truggy to convert to electric and am lost what bits i need for a truggy?
 which is the best combo? tekin or mmm? and can you really get a 30 min run out of one of these? or twenty?  am not botherd what it costs just want the right parts firts time  cheers Ben
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#2
11-01-2010
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Quote:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Castle-Creatio...item2a03d7afbb This lipo 20 min run times I would say, I have this one http://www.rcdude.com/servlet/the-14...X--dsh-/Detail And here for your bits http://www.rc-monster.com/rcm.php
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BUDS BALLS
BIG AN SAGGY E REVO BAJA,SS TS REED All The Gear,and No Idea!! 4PKS,4PL PILLOW CASE CREW http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29834
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#3
11-01-2010
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Quote:
The Tekin 2000kv Truggy motor will be alot better efficiency wise and run cooler with its higher capacity ESC. Its more for racing and has on board tuning features, sensored and its own temp gauge that makes it very user friendly. Costs more but you get more as well as more motor options. Pinion testing with your drive style will help get max run time too. Its increadable what 1 tooth will do sometimes. due to the difficulty of changing pinons and adjusting the mess with the RC monster motor mount I used to just "settle" with an all around gear. For that reason I like the Elite RC mount that allows me to change a pinion under super fast, to really let me tune for the very different tracks I swap around between in my area. http://www.elitercd.com/index.php?op...&id=5&Itemid=2 Easy to change bearings, motors, clean things & adjust gear mesh, plus the added bearing (same type as nitro clutch bearing) helps take alot of the load off the main bearing and shield it from dirt. Again it costs more than the RC monster mount but you get what you pay for and if money is not an object for quality then... well you know. I spent way more money trying to be cheap only to get the good stuff later, I sorta wish I had your approach or knew better when I got my 1st stuff. Oh if you do get the Elite mount put a note that Jason Wipf plugged you into his product and I know he will move you up the priority list if he is tight on supply as that is a popular mount.
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#5
12-01-2010
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STOP right there!
First, RC-Monster are releasing a complete conversion kit for the XT8-09 (or the older one with a new rear centre shaft) - which will be online this week. It comprises a complete chassis, motor mount, battery box and centre diff mounts. Link. Note that the pictures there show the prototype - go to the third page and you'll see the pre-anodised final version. Here's a sneak peek: Second, I would go with the MMM along with a 2200 motor for 4S. I'm not sure what Jason is talking about with the 'higher capacity ESC' with the Tekin - they are both rated the same, and from my experience the MMM will take more of a beating (excluding the fan, which is weak at best). If you want to run higher voltage - go with the Tekin, 1700KV for 5S, and 1350KV for 6S. Make sure you get it from someone like RC-Monster - they made sure they got the new stock from Tekin. (Even sent old stock back to get them updated with the new rotor). Maxamps packs... Avoid. Go with the Hyperion VX series for less money, and get more performance, better cells and better matching. No chance will you get 20 minutes with a 4S 6500, you'll need closer to 8000mAh for 20 minutes with a truggy. I can get 20 minutes (racing plus cool down laps) with a 5S 5500 pack, and I'd suggest that 5S is the voltage you'd want to run. Higher voltage combined with a lower KV motor will mean cooler running, and thus higher efficiency than a higher KV motor, with less voltage, as there would be higher current flow. Try reading my beginner's guide, as it will answer many of your queations.
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#6
12-01-2010
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STOP right there!
RATINGS: Tekin rated at 210 cont. amps, Castle Mamba 120 cont. amps. Both run same mag lev fans @ 5v Tekin's Cooling fins have more exposure to air flow but their case is smaller and sealed from the elements. Mamba has more plastic restricting air flow compared to tekin and yet its case (especially if you get the ones where the battery wire is not a plug) that is open allowing dust to go right down onto the mother board and settle on and underneath it, add moisture to that dust and your asking for a short circuit which hasn't happened to me but 2 other racer buds of mine. They are in need of a case update, the plug type battery was move in the right direction. MILAGE: I've been posting requests for peoples truggy and buggy milage for the last few weeks on multiple forums and so far on average 4s MM 2200 vs. T8 2000 shows the Castle motor getting 9% WORSE milage than the Tekin. Thats more about the KV math really, but they describe the 2200 as super to over powerful, the 2000 as just about right and great for racing and the 1700 as good for small tracks but a tad underpowered sometimes. Your track size and required run times will help you decide here. BALANCE & WEIGHT: I love the way the chassis from RC monster looks and am for purpose built chassises but your still getting an inferior motor mount and especially if your trying to get 15-20 minute runs, your going to need like marvin said a 6500-8000mah battery which when put on the other side will make that left side HUGELY unbalanced. You are likely to see the car sway to one side on jumps or turn differently one way vs. the other, you will see more wear and scraping under your chassis on the heavy side. Depending on your pack (6.5k or 8k) and if you put the ESC on the battery side too, your looking at 25-35% weight imbalance on that left side. VOLTAGE: I do like 5s or even 6s vs 4s for efficiency. Marvin is right you will be cooler, run longer per MAH spent and dont have to use as high of a MAH pack to reach the same runtime as a 4s. But you have to understand while while a 4100mah 5s might get the same milage as a 5000mah 4s (due to cooler running efficiency) you will have 1 extra cell on the 5s, making the weight and cost be about the same. (compare this with equal C ratings and you'll see what I mean). So, 5s or 6s with the appropriate motor is great for cooler runnings especially in summer but dont do it thinking your going to save money or weight on batteries. The only down side to 5s or 6s is flexibly. You see I honestly want to run 5 or 6s like I used to and believe they are superior but currently run 4s because on rare occasion when I have been in need of a battery or motor (perhaps i forgot to charge a pack, a rotor spun or bearing blew out), since 4s is about 70% of the electric racers out there, its much easier to borrow a spare from people. Again see what others are running in your area and decide whats best for YOUR situation. BATTERIES: Marvin is right MAX amps suck balls. Hyperion is amongst the best and you can charge them at up to 5c (granted you get a charger that can charge that high) for super fast charging times.
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#7
12-01-2010
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You are right about the Tekin's ratings, but truthfully they are thought of having the same power capabilities - Castle may have derived their current rating from 6S, whilst Tekin at 4S - the current would be higher, but overall power may be the same.
In fairness, ratings mean nothing - they can be fiddled so easily, that you cannot trust any manufacturer; they will both run any motor in an 1/8th scale - that's what's important. MMM vs RX8 debate could go on for years, so consider - is sensored required? Do I run in a very dusty environment? And other such questions, and go with what you're comfortable with - they're both great. I personally had a better experience with my MMMs, than with my RX8. Now I have an MMP - and I'm sure I'll like that too. With the '09 spec, the drivetrain is fairly offset - so you can get away with a larger battery more easily than with a straighter-drivelined truggy. Balance will only be noticeable/particularly important on a very smooth fast track. In the UK, most tracks are a little more off-road than in the US, and it is far less noticeable. Weight and cost of 5S and 6S vs 4S for the same battery power - there are no savings to be had as Jason rightly said. What you do gain is a little efficiency - and thus a little extra run-time. You'll need the same discharge ('C') rating for any of the voltages, assuming the total power is the same. Frankly, I'd look at doing a battery change in the longer finals - it'll be fairly quick with a truggy - lift the side of the body up, unstrap the battery remove and replace. 20 seconds or so in all if your pit crew are well practiced, and if you have connectors like EC5s or Deans (no polarity issues to worry about). EC5s would be better with a truggy though (extra current draw). Judging by the fact that he'll be running 20 minute finals, no-one in his area runs 1/8 electric - we are a few years behind you in the UK - 1/8th electric is still very rare, people will spend £460 on a Durango, but not a similar amount on 1/8th...  Other battery brands worth looking at include Polyquest, Thunderpower, and, if on a budget, Zippy or Turnigy's higher discharge rated packs.
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