Go Back   oOple.com Forums > Car Talk > Tamiya

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 01-03-2012
Netmav's Avatar
Netmav Netmav is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Vestfossen
Posts: 48
Default How do you biuld your TRF shocks?

Hi guys,

I'm having some trouble getting my TRF HL shocks completely sealed. I always get some "sweating" around the rod at the bottom of the shock body.

I've tried to build my shocks with the standard Tamiya O-rings (red), Tamiya Competition O-rings (blue) and the Tamiya X-rings.
I've got three set of these shocks, but I cannot get any of them to stay completely sealed?
I use Green Slime on the O-rings when I build them.

Anybody got any tips on how to make them 100% sealed?
Or does this happen to all Tamiya TRF shocks?

Thanks.


\Martin
__________________
DEX210
DEX410v3
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 01-03-2012
sosidge's Avatar
sosidge sosidge is offline
Mad Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,774
Default

Are you trying to completely fill the shock with oil? Because that won't work, they need some air in them, and excess oil will just get forced out of the seals.

I always built them like an Associated shock - piston down, oil to the brim but with a concave surface, screw the oiled cap on, check for even damping throughout the stroke with no more than a tiny squeak of air. I've never managed to get the bleed screws to give me the kind of shock I like.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 01-03-2012
MHeadling's Avatar
MHeadling MHeadling is offline
*SuPeRsTaR mEmBeR*
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 4,241
Default

Sorry to crash the thread, but anyone know the part number the for the o ring for the shock cap?? The one that goes around the shock body??

Maybe try the Nortech whitie o rings? available from JT models...
__________________

www.rccarshop.co.uk
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 01-03-2012
Netmav's Avatar
Netmav Netmav is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Vestfossen
Posts: 48
Default

I've always used the "Shock building guide" on trfracing.co.uk, thinking that was the best solution.
http://www.trfracing.co.uk/page_1265187551237.html (scroll down a bit)

Maybe I should mention that my shocks works and feels perfect, except for the sweating.


\Martin
__________________
DEX210
DEX410v3
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 01-03-2012
sosidge's Avatar
sosidge sosidge is offline
Mad Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,774
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Netmav View Post
I've always used the "Shock building guide" on trfracing.co.uk, thinking that was the best solution.
http://www.trfracing.co.uk/page_1265187551237.html (scroll down a bit)

Maybe I should mention that my shocks works and feels perfect, except for the sweating.


\Martin
Well, that is pretty much the opposite of the way I build my shocks, it builds a shock that has no air in it but which will suck the damper shaft back in when extended, the way I do it builds a shock that will allow the damper to rebound. But everyone has their own way, and that way is successful for a lot of people.

A little "sweating" is tolerable, most of my shocks sweat a little over a period of a couple of months. If the shock is unusable after resting for a week then that is not good.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 01-03-2012
MHeadling's Avatar
MHeadling MHeadling is offline
*SuPeRsTaR mEmBeR*
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 4,241
Default

I have found the O rings for the shock cap:

BE13- 9444361

Any ideas where I can get these??
__________________

www.rccarshop.co.uk
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 01-03-2012
Netmav's Avatar
Netmav Netmav is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Vestfossen
Posts: 48
Default

Can you let me know how you build yours in detail?
I have to do a rebuild after 4-5 meetings on mine..


Quote:
Originally Posted by sosidge View Post
Well, that is pretty much the opposite of the way I build my shocks, it builds a shock that has no air in it but which will suck the damper shaft back in when extended, the way I do it builds a shock that will allow the damper to rebound. But everyone has their own way, and that way is successful for a lot of people.

A little "sweating" is tolerable, most of my shocks sweat a little over a period of a couple of months. If the shock is unusable after resting for a week then that is not good.
__________________
DEX210
DEX410v3
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 12-03-2013
Aussie Top Force's Avatar
Aussie Top Force Aussie Top Force is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Moss Vale NSW Australia
Posts: 217
Send a message via Skype™ to Aussie Top Force
Default

oops thought this was new thread!

Last edited by Aussie Top Force; 12-03-2013 at 09:02 AM. Reason: already posted
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 12-03-2013
super gripper's Avatar
super gripper super gripper is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Wiltshire
Posts: 231
Default

always use associated green slime, I use the standard red O rings and my shocks never leak.
__________________
Tamiya TRF502x & Vega 201

Titchfield Off Road Club Hants

www.huntersystems.co.uk
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 13-03-2013
djmcnz djmcnz is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 197
Default

Interesting thread because I'm about to rebuild my shocks too. They've never leaked though... ever. Murphy's Law is that they will leak after this rebuild!

However I hate the bleed screw / aeration method - I can't get them "just right" for me either.

So I suspect I will dismay some when I say these are getting rebuilt with solid caps and bladders so I can adjust rebound more effectively. I'll take it up a step or two in oil weight to compensate.

Will be changing from stock red o-rings to x-rings because I have some of these floating around from a recent purchase.

Will take into consideration the various tips in this tread, thanks!
__________________
Dave
TRF511 w/upgrade kit | LRP Flow Works | LRP X20 6.5
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 01-03-2012
Airfixie Airfixie is offline
New Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 11
Talking

Hi sorry but my brother pretty switched on,you 100% sure theres no air inside
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 01-03-2012
MHeadling's Avatar
MHeadling MHeadling is offline
*SuPeRsTaR mEmBeR*
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 4,241
Default

Thanks Netnav, is the service from Vellrip good??
__________________

www.rccarshop.co.uk
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 01-03-2012
Netmav's Avatar
Netmav Netmav is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Vestfossen
Posts: 48
Default

I've got nothing but good things to say about their service.
I've bought from them a few times, and never had any problems.
Shipping's quite quick as well.

They might not be the cheapest, but they've got a lot of "hard to get" items.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MHeadling View Post
Thanks Netnav, is the service from Vellrip good??
__________________
DEX210
DEX410v3
Reply With Quote
Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT. The time now is 04:10 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
oOple.com