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Hi guys,
I'm having some trouble getting my TRF HL shocks completely sealed. I always get some "sweating" around the rod at the bottom of the shock body. I've tried to build my shocks with the standard Tamiya O-rings (red), Tamiya Competition O-rings (blue) and the Tamiya X-rings. I've got three set of these shocks, but I cannot get any of them to stay completely sealed? I use Green Slime on the O-rings when I build them. Anybody got any tips on how to make them 100% sealed? Or does this happen to all Tamiya TRF shocks? Thanks. \Martin
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DEX210 DEX410v3 |
#2
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Are you trying to completely fill the shock with oil? Because that won't work, they need some air in them, and excess oil will just get forced out of the seals.
I always built them like an Associated shock - piston down, oil to the brim but with a concave surface, screw the oiled cap on, check for even damping throughout the stroke with no more than a tiny squeak of air. I've never managed to get the bleed screws to give me the kind of shock I like. |
#3
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Sorry to crash the thread, but anyone know the part number the for the o ring for the shock cap?? The one that goes around the shock body??
Maybe try the Nortech whitie o rings? available from JT models... |
#4
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I've always used the "Shock building guide" on trfracing.co.uk, thinking that was the best solution.
http://www.trfracing.co.uk/page_1265187551237.html (scroll down a bit) Maybe I should mention that my shocks works and feels perfect, except for the sweating. \Martin
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DEX210 DEX410v3 |
#5
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![]() Quote:
A little "sweating" is tolerable, most of my shocks sweat a little over a period of a couple of months. If the shock is unusable after resting for a week then that is not good. |
#6
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I have found the O rings for the shock cap:
BE13- 9444361 Any ideas where I can get these?? |
#7
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Can you let me know how you build yours in detail?
I have to do a rebuild after 4-5 meetings on mine.. ![]() Quote:
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DEX210 DEX410v3 |
#8
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oops thought this was new thread!
Last edited by Aussie Top Force; 12-03-2013 at 09:02 AM. Reason: already posted |
#9
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always use associated green slime, I use the standard red O rings and my shocks never leak.
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#10
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Interesting thread because I'm about to rebuild my shocks too. They've never leaked though... ever. Murphy's Law is that they will leak after this rebuild!
However I hate the bleed screw / aeration method - I can't get them "just right" for me either. So I suspect I will dismay some when I say these are getting rebuilt with solid caps and bladders so I can adjust rebound more effectively. I'll take it up a step or two in oil weight to compensate. Will be changing from stock red o-rings to x-rings because I have some of these floating around from a recent purchase. Will take into consideration the various tips in this tread, thanks! |
#11
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Hi sorry but my brother pretty switched on,you 100% sure theres no air inside
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#12
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Thanks Netnav, is the service from Vellrip good??
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#13
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I've got nothing but good things to say about their service.
I've bought from them a few times, and never had any problems. Shipping's quite quick as well. ![]() They might not be the cheapest, but they've got a lot of "hard to get" items.
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DEX210 DEX410v3 |
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