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#2
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Tiverton
Hi Griff55
well done on TQ and win. Glad you like the car. Nise car to build one of the best I have built. What set up did you use Phill T |
#3
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is there a spring set out out for the d4 yet?
if not what suspention setup from the box is best for uk outdoor tracks? ta dan |
#4
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hotbodies do some (part numbers in the manual) but no stock at mirage yet
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MBModels - Schumacher Racing - Vapextech.co.uk - MRT - Savox - SMD |
#5
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I have been using the kit springs, they seem ok on most types of track, but could do with some stiffer ones in some conditions
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#6
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Quote:
At our last meeting, my first with the D4, I found the kit springs were fine on our track which is outdoors. I'm going to try the pink springs first as this is what was suggested by Mr Trueman Snr. I believe? in another thread. I also got the optional rear uprights and toe in blocks so I'll have a fiddle with those as well. I've fitted the 0.5 uprights to start with and the 2.5 mm toe block to keep an overall 3 deg. rear toe. |
#7
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Quote:
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MBModels - Schumacher Racing - Vapextech.co.uk - MRT - Savox - SMD |
#8
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Blank Setup sheets - English only
Hi
Where can you download the new Blank setup sheet? There are several setups on the new sheet - but I cannot find a Blank. These new sheets look "cleaner" being in English only. Thanks Jeff |
#9
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Anyone got a good base setup for grass tracks yet??
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#10
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I need to calm down the rear end a bit, its kicking out a bit too much. Too much steering making it twitchy. From a out the box setting (apart from removing roll bar) , which should i adjust first, front or rear? Dont have much time for messing with it to much so thought id try and get some advice beforehand. Im guessing lenghing the rear camber links as a start, or should i be messing with suspention links on the tower/wishbone?
this is for outdoor grass tracks any advice appreciated ta |
#11
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I run mine with 0 camber/ 1 deg. toe out at the front, 2.5 deg. toe in and -2 deg. camber at the back, HB Pink springs and 40 (F) / 35 (R) oil. Rear shocks 2nd hole in (working form the outside of the car) top & bottom, 2nd hole in top and outer hole on wishbone at the front.
To a good driver this probably sounds complete pants but it works o.k. for me running on an outdoor grass track. Ballistic Buggy green mini spikes or yellows if completely dry.
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Losi Eight T - Nova Rossi P21-7T- Hitec 5955's & Spektrum + TeknoRC Losi 8ET - Neu 1515-1Y - MGM 16025 & Hitec 5995's. RC Heli's - Align T Rex 600 Nitro Sport - X-Cell Spectra G gasser. |
#12
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ok ta, some things to try there, although i aint got my option springs yet
cheers |
#13
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hi, so any addvice for a starting point for the coventry f3's this weekend?
havnt a clue what the track is like. any advice appreciated ta |
#14
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I built mine this week and raced last night... I had nothing but problems with mine... This kit overall to build was somewhat of a pain... I've been racing over eight years and im a sponssored driver (not by hot bodies)....
What is everyone doing about the constant drive shaft pins backing out and falling off? and I don't know where to go as far as setup, it needs alot more steering in general, and feels nowhere as good as a B44... I'm running on a high traction tight indoor 40wt in front and 30wt in rear... |
#15
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Quote:
The kit was a joy to build, no problems at all. I did grind flats onto the driveshaft pins for the grub scews to tighten onto, but I do that on any car. I also put heat shrink round the joint once done. Set-up wise, IMHO the car has heaps of steering. What surface are you running on, and what is your full set-up? Maybe we can help. G
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Graham North http://www.atomic-carbon.co.uk https://www.facebook.com/atomiccarbon https://www.facebook.com/nortechracing |
#16
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All I can do is echo northy's points on this one.
ok I'm sponsored by mirage BUT...I built the car last year before my sponsorship. It was easy to build, no problems at all. I didn't file a flat onto the pins but I've threadlocked the grubs and not covered the driveshafts, and have had no problems at all with the pins falling out? and since they've not come out I've not touched them since so as not to alter anything and risk them coming out due to changing something. Hanlding wise, Mines allways seemed to have plenty of steering on grp's and schumi yellows, 30wt rear and 35wt front. and that was with the kit springs. Could try a one-way? |
#17
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Quote:
mine was spot on try silver losi front and red rear springs i did not grind flats in pins but did heat shrink the CVD, built spot on! where did u struggle?
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MBModels - Schumacher Racing - Vapextech.co.uk - MRT - Savox - SMD |
#18
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Alot of the holes did not line upon a few of the main chassis parts...
i think i'll try 35 in the front... I'm considering going over to B44 shocks and axles all around...... Tight indoor, high traction, moist is what im running on... with losi pink tapers all round... with kit springs... The time that it was running it struggled steering comparing it to a basic setup B44... and the rear seemed to want to come out when on power steering ... either no steering or too much it seemed... however i had the rear sway off. how much is the front one-way doing for everyone? |
#19
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Quote:
As for drive pins, I've never had a problem with them and I don't file a slot.. Good threadlock is the key here. Loctite 242 is my favorite flavour... It holds, but you can still get them out if need be. If your on Taper Pins, try my set up from Hot Rod Hobbies. It's on the HB website under D4 > setups.
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5 Time Oople Invernational SC Champion. Powered by OptiPower Do, or do not, there is no try! |
#20
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Thanks Adam,
I exadgerated the building a tad bit but the upper deck did not line up with the slipper mount. this costed me to bend a few wrenches and strip a few screwz, and a few other minor things that i cannot come up with on the top of my head... I have great expectations for this car and excited but i hope that i can work out the bugs and get it to and pass it's potential. |
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