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#21
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So from the above posts, what's the advise? Cut or not to cut, that is the Question !!
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#22
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Spring to long and car to high.... Cut
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#23
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Can someone clarify which caster blocks are 14 degree? I am running alloy 12deg blocks at the moment:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXVRC2&P=OW However, I'd like to try 14 deg blocks.
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Schumacher racing http://www.racingcars.com ne-rc.blogspot.com My Trader Feedback : www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25402 |
#24
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they will have 14 engraved on them like the 12's have.
__________________
Tamiya ~ Mugen Seiki ~ Viper RC ~ Pro-Line ~ Xpert Servos ~ BEAT ~ Protek RC ~ Amain Hobbies ~ LMR ~ Ultimate Racing ~ Nitrolux ~ Nibbo Designs ~ Stickit1 Racing ~ The World Famous TFR! |
#25
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Doh! Thanks. . . . . Ill get my coat.
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Schumacher racing http://www.racingcars.com ne-rc.blogspot.com My Trader Feedback : www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25402 |
#26
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Quote:
The truth is we NEED different springs. Tamiya should come out with a DB01 spring set for the rear that are the same/similar rates, but slightly shorter overall. That would solve all our problems... BTW: What's the part number for the 14* caster blocks? |
#27
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you can start cutting and changing, personally im gonig to cut the spring!
As i did at petit and that did not make the car worse...it made it better....... So with my experience, although yes it will increase the rate of the spring. the effect is worth it.
__________________
Tamiya ~ Mugen Seiki ~ Viper RC ~ Pro-Line ~ Xpert Servos ~ BEAT ~ Protek RC ~ Amain Hobbies ~ LMR ~ Ultimate Racing ~ Nitrolux ~ Nibbo Designs ~ Stickit1 Racing ~ The World Famous TFR! |
#28
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or just use AE springs, like I do....
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dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#29
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that does not really work either, when i used to cut down the springs on the rear of my B44 to get it to the correct height............................................ ...........................
i dont like the idea of taking out the threaded collar, as you cannot make fine adjustments easily!
__________________
Tamiya ~ Mugen Seiki ~ Viper RC ~ Pro-Line ~ Xpert Servos ~ BEAT ~ Protek RC ~ Amain Hobbies ~ LMR ~ Ultimate Racing ~ Nitrolux ~ Nibbo Designs ~ Stickit1 Racing ~ The World Famous TFR! |
#30
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Pidge do you run a lipo retainer on your 511? Or did you servo tape the lipo to the battery strap?
Look forward to a rude bits tray, the one on my B44 is ace! |
#31
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i use a retainer right now.
works really well and still retains the flex.
__________________
Tamiya ~ Mugen Seiki ~ Viper RC ~ Pro-Line ~ Xpert Servos ~ BEAT ~ Protek RC ~ Amain Hobbies ~ LMR ~ Ultimate Racing ~ Nitrolux ~ Nibbo Designs ~ Stickit1 Racing ~ The World Famous TFR! |
#32
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Guys, on the above topics:
1. I'm 99% sure kit castor block is 10 degree. Option aluminium is available in 10 or 12 degree. 12's have it written on, 10's don't. Not sure if Pidge has special bits (in the past the team guys have ran 1 degree rear hubs which have never been released!) but no 14 degree blocks are available as far as I can see? 2. Rear springs. The alternative to cutting springs is to use the associated plastic shock collar as it's much thinner. I use this and just set my front ride height around it. As Pidge says the disadvantage is it's not adjustable, I have instances where I get the rear kicking up due to being too low! Plus blue bling is always better!! |
#33
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There are no 14 degree castor blocks, not yet anyway. Lee wrote "they will have" meaning they maybe will be released?
The 0.5 degree rear hubs that Hupo used on his 501X was replaced with a new rear suspension mount on the 511. The 511 rear susp. mount gives more toe-in than the 501X rear susp. mount. 511 has 3.3 degrees I believe. |
#34
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really? I think it's 12*,for all the people who don't believe me then see the attached photo, it's very noticeable if you have a good look at the bottom lug where the king pin go's in.....and Mr Tamiya Amish you should know this!!!! 501x is on the left and yes the pin through the hub carriers is a neat fit.
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#35
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Quote:
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