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#2281
29-12-2009
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I have been using the Tamiya Hop-Up blue aluminum motor mount for a while now. Here is what I have noticed:
1. It is -a lot- lighter than the stock motor mount and is cut from a higher quality billet aluminum. This is a very good thing. 2. The ribs for passive cooling are much more pronounced. 3. It does cool 'a little' more effectively than the stock mount. If you really want to improve cooling, make sure to add the Tamiya heat sink plate to it as well (the one that mounts under the upgraded chassis). 4. It's better for transferring heat to the optional heat sink plate. 5. It looks cool! So yes, it is a better part - but it's a bit overpriced.. If you have to get an upgraded motor mount, get the Tamiya one -only-. I have read that the one made by 3Racing has been known to have some fit problems and is really no different than the kit mount (besides the color). Hope this helps. Quote:
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#2282
29-12-2009
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I have the 3 racing motor mount its cheaper and does exactly the same job as the Tamiya one , i didn`t have an fitting issues.
Andy
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#2283
30-12-2009
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Dimblum, once again, ur info is great and Tamiya guy, thanks for the review on the 3 racing one too
Re hexes, yeah it must be a bit hit and miss, the guy i bought the db01r off had shimmed out the wheels, but one wheel wasnt shimmed out as much and i could see where it had rubbed on the front hub and i could see the wear on the inside of the wheel, also i could feel the drive train was a little tight without the motor in, once i put losi rims on the front, the car rolled very smoothly, and yeah, i cant wait to see my thing with the rulux rims all round, will look great RE motor mount, thanks for all the info, luckily the db01r comes with that extra heatsink in the hole below the motor, i'll check the pricing of the 3 racing one, if theres not much difference, i'd go tamiya, but i think either one will be on the wishlist, down the track if i need something extra to keep temps down, but agreed, it looks ace, it really shoudl have been something included as standard in the db01r i think cyas
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#2284
30-12-2009
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Andy,
Good to know. It's hard to know the quality of a part unless you can try it for yourself.. It would be nice to compare the parts side-by-side, but there aren't many other racers that run DB-01's at my local tracks. On the flip side it is kind of fun to race a Tamiya when everyone else runs Team Associated or Losi as the norm. Quote:
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#2285
30-12-2009
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Agreed. The Hop-Up motor mount should have been a standard part for the DB-01R.. I was also surprised to discover that the Hop-Up diff joints were not included either??
Oh well.. The DB-01R is still a nicer kit for anyone who wants to run a DB-01 and save a load of money compared to buying the hop-ups separate. It's a great car for the track  Quote:
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#2286
30-12-2009
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Quote:
Yeah the DB-01R was missing afew nice finishing touch`s (motor mount heat sink/alloy steering linkage/501 outdrives, but it`s still a great release Quote:
Andy
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#2287
04-01-2010
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Observations on hopups
Hello guys!
Happy New year and Happy Driving! Made an observation: Recently bought a DB01R to complement my DB01. I had the DB01, the all 'plastic' one for a year and broke nothing. Since i started racing the carbon reinforced, i broke a front and a rear arm (deformed a hinge pin!)and a rear upright. They are all carbon. Is this a coincidence? I believe my driving had improved over the past few months, so i suppose it is not me!!! I believe the carbon reinforced parts are far less forgiving!!! And another important observation! The hex conversion (and rims) messes the geometry! I started running my DB01 last spring. I wore the hex conversion from the start, never tested the car without it. Well, i couldn't turn right even with the craziest settings! Like driving an octopus on a frozen lake! On the dirt track it was so and so, but when i got on a slippery asphalt track it was horrible! I saw DB01s on the track behaving far better than mine, but i just thought it was my 'hands'. Thens some of the other DB01 guys commented on how my car looked strange! Wider front than rear etc. So i reverted back to the stock attachment and stock rim/tires.It is now like driving a cheetah! Any comments or personal experiences on those observations?
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#2288
04-01-2010
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Hot Bodies D4 wheels would work with your hex conversion if you really want. They are losi offset just like the standard wheels. Normal hex wheels are totally wrong and won't work other than for playing.
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If your PM doesn't at first succeed - try, try again. I'll reply in the end, honest. 
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#2289
04-01-2010
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hey crusader, thanks for the observations, it sort of makes sense actually, the carbon arms have less flex, so less give in the case of a shunt, same with all the aluminium suspension mounts etc, less give, more stress on the other parts
what hex conversion are you talking about? if u run the b44 hex on the front, the width would only be a couple of mm extra, i'd think not enough to make a difference, and not enough to be noticed by eye. but im interested to hear if it is the b44 hexs
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#2290
04-01-2010
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I was using the 12mm hex adapter kits from Yeah Racing. They change both front and rear attachment methods to 12mm hex. But, there are two factors i did not take into account. The conversion adds width and the wheels i used (anything available for a buggy with 12mm hex like the HPI ULTRA7/9) have the wrong offsets.
it was obvious that the (narrower) front wheels where 1/2cm out when compared to the rear wheels. Now if the LOSI XXX4 Rear rims and the LOSI Front buggy wheels(they don't seem to be specifically made for XXX4) are a direct fit then its fine, because i can find both these LOSI and the RULUX that Dimblum suggested. A year ago i had no choice of compatible rims available in Greece, so i turned to the conversion. The hex for the front you mentioned from the Associated B44... What is the part number?
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#2291
04-01-2010
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hey the b44 hex isnt a direct fit, you'd need to drill the hole out, the simplest solution is use the losi rims the losi 4wd front fit xx4 and xxx4 and the db01,and the losi rears fit all those cars also, the offsets are all the same, though the front rulux rim will only work if shimmed out or the b44 hex is fitted, but the rear rulux rim is a direct fit
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#2293
05-01-2010
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It fits but it rubs. You need to shim 0.5mm or there abouts to stop it rubbing. The bearings might bind very slightly though so it's a fine line.
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If your PM doesn't at first succeed - try, try again. I'll reply in the end, honest.
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#2294
06-01-2010
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yeah exactly, the front rims are not a perfect direct fit, the hex hole in the jconcepts rulux rim is the same size in width as the losi but deeper than the losi rim and deeper than the standard durga hex, it means the hex hole in the rim will rub on your front hub causing friction and heat, slowing the car down and making ur motor work harder than it should, the simplest solution is to not use the rulux rims and just use losi rims on the front, or then as we have suggested, putting shims on before the wheel to stop it rubbing
Jimmy, its nice to see you still imparting your DB01 wisdom in here, ive read this whole thread and of course you review on the car, all of which have helped greatly to add to my understanding of the car, now i just have to try driving it,
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#2295
06-01-2010
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B44 Rims
Is this true for the Team Associated rims for the B44?
These are the ones i have recently purchased and they seem to fit fine whithout the need for spacers.... The Losi rims i found to be available are: Front - Rear Are they ok without modifications? Also i am worndering if these TEAM DURANGO rims are ok: Front - Rear I always search for alternatives to the stock products as our local TAMIYA dealer hasn't even heard about DB01/TRF501x etc !!!! 
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#2296
06-01-2010
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Hmm, so far I have been able to run the Rulux rims 'without' the need of shims. It's possible that my combination of parts made a slight difference in the clearance of the rims compared to the DB01 kit parts..
I changed the stock dogbones for the Tamiya front universal shafts [54015] (the original kit, not the wide operating CVD's). I also changed the stock front plastic uprights for the Tamiya aluminum 12degree castor blocks [54063]. It's possible that one or the other of these items eliminated the need to shim. Quote:
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#2297
06-01-2010
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The Losi rims are a direct fit - no modifications needed. I have used them a few times without any problems.
Not sure about the Team Durango rims - can anyone verify the hex size? Quote:
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#2298
06-01-2010
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Rims
Ok,
the next time i get to the store i will try the Rulux with my CVDs, so we can eliminate one. I have already posted the seller of Durango items who also imports the DEX410 kit that uses these... Another discovery is that the diffs in my DB01R have not gotten loose for 2 consecutive races (6 preliminaries + 3 finals + numerous tests). Perhaps it is a diffent material for the safety rings. And a new addition to my racing equipment is the Eurgle 2.4Ghz 3Ch LCD Wheel Radio Gear Fail Safe. Check it out. Bought it for 69 euro.
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#2299
06-01-2010
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Quote:
 Andy
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Tamiya
Linear Mode
