Yokomo YZ-2

[Chris Elworthy]

Gaz,

The wider rear gullwing arms are used to aid stability on corner entry, increase on power steering and reduce the chances of grip roll.

Read a discussion on this over on Rctech after Lee ran the gullwing rear arms at the Cactus Classic last week.



Chris

[Adam F]

I thought the YZ2 rear arms were shorter than the BmaxIII, but ran with longer hubs?

Isn't it the front arms that are gullwing and use the revised front tower?

[Allan1875]

Originally Posted by Adam F

I thought the YZ2 rear arms were shorter than the BmaxIII, but ran with longer hubs?

Isn't it the front arms that are gullwing and use the revised front tower?

Correct. I'm not 100% sure the reason Lee used the B-MAX3 rear arms.

If you use the YZ2 arms on the 4wd, you have to change the driveshafts and then get the 6mm hex. I prefer the car with these arms, feels more stable on corner entry and exit.

[skyaflake]

Rear arm length, from shortest to widest:

Z2-008R
B4-008R
B4-008R1

So probably to change characteristics as the B-Max4 III arm is a bit wider.

[Allan1875]

Originally Posted by skyaflake

Rear arm length, from shortest to widest:

Z2-008R
B4-008R
B4-008R1

So probably to change characteristics as the B-Max4 III arm is a bit wider.

Ha I knew they were wider and it was to do with geometry, what I meant is that I am unsure what change it would have made.

Edit: Just spoke to Lee and as they were wider, is was to make the car more stable and easier to drive on the carpet.

[skyaflake]

Making the car wider implies that it makes it more stable.

But good you asked Lee about it. Now it's clear for everyone .

[Allan1875]

Originally Posted by skyaflake

Making the car wider implies that it makes it more stable.

But good you asked Lee about it. Now it's clear for everyone .

Yeh I got that much but I was wondering if the gemotry change was for any specific reason as the holes in the wishbone for suspesion mounting are different also. Makes sense to go wider though on the high bite carpet.

To stop any confusion, if you want to run it, you need to run the bmax shafts as well.

[gazhillAE]

Originally Posted by Allan1875

Correct. I'm not 100% sure the reason Lee used the B-MAX3 rear arms.

If you use the YZ2 arms on the 4wd, you have to change the driveshafts and then get the 6mm hex. I prefer the car with these arms, feels more stable on corner entry and exit.

It says he used the bmax 2 driveshafts aswell

No mention on hexs??

[gazhillAE]

Originally Posted by Allan1875

Ha I knew they were wider and it was to do with geometry, what I meant is that I am unsure what change it would have made.

Edit: Just spoke to Lee and as they were wider, is was to make the car more stable and easier to drive on the carpet.

So its like using the wheel hub spacer kit on the sv2....Understand now

[gazhillAE]

Not great in the wet these from what ive seen and heard......?
Anyone know any different ?

[Allan1875]

Originally Posted by gazhillAE

It says he used the bmax 2 driveshafts aswell

No mention on hexs??

BMAX driveshafts and YZ2 hexes.

Originally Posted by gazhillAE

Not great in the wet these from what ive seen and heard......?
Anyone know any different ?

Stick the shocks on the back with a ball diff and they are perfect mate. I've run mine on slidy floor and it's been perfect. Good rear grip but not too locked in to the point you can't turn.

[ralphee]

Just ordered some shafts and arms to try this, treated it to a set of the brass rear pivot blocks too to have a dabble with, and more YAS springs, shes worth it lol!

Lee

[Callum]

Just ordered my self a YZ-2 is there any particular spares I should be looking to keep in my hauler, or is it just your general hubs, arms etc.
Many thanks Callum

[skyaflake]

Just the regular stuff. The car doesn't break and wear that much, just do maintenance (and check everything) after a race day and you are good to go. Enjoy the YZ-2

[Ashlandchris]

Originally Posted by skyaflake

... (and check everything) after a race day ...
Enjoy the YZ-2

I cannot stress enough THREADLOCK

I have run my YZ-2 twice and have twice now had to retire from a round due to a screw coming loose, either into alloy or a nut.
I can't blame this on the car as the car itself is superb, but just poor building on my part. However, threadlock will hopefully solve that particular issue

[skyaflake]

Yup. Threadlock is something that the YZ-2 needs to stay in one piece. Just apply a minimum amount of threadlock on the screws and don't use a too strong type of threadlock.

I changed some nuts with self locking nuts and those don't come loose anymore.

[Callum]

Ok will make sure I do that, any upgrades needed? Weight etc?

[Ashlandchris]

Originally Posted by Callum

Ok will make sure I do that, any upgrades needed? Weight etc?

Upgrades. Not really - the kit as supplied is superb. I know there are alloy rear hubs now (in black alloy) which I'm sure some will get, but I haven't seen the need yet. The turnbuckles are plenty strong enough and all the front end is alloy anyhow so not much to upgrade there?
I have gone with the kit gear diff and so far it has been great. I have a spare ball diff which I'd never used in my BMax, but so far not felt the need to try it.
Alloy shock tops? You decide. I have them as they came with my BMax2, but haven't used them.
I've broken nothing yet

Weight - I have a small brass weight in the front, but mainly as I made some chassis protectors for a few other drivers at Batley and one of the drivers kindly did me a deal on the brass weight in exchange. The car feels good with it, but not sure whether it was much worse without? It felt slightly more stable on a slippery surface, but I am not a good enough driver to really know

[Callum]

Thanks for the help mate, are the alloy shock tops the same as the bmax ones then?
This will be my first Yokomo currently have a KF.
Callum

[discothesnake]

I wouldn't bother with the alloy shock tops. I always think the shocks feel better with the plastic ones.