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#21
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Sundays setup guys, any questions let me know!
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Schumacher, Hobby Wing, Thunder Power, Anderson, Sanwa, Trishbits, P-Dub Racing, Rudebits, Inside Line, Nuclear RC, RC Domination, RPC |
#22
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Hi simon
Are they core springs?
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MBModels - Schumacher Racing - Vapextech.co.uk - MRT - Savox - SMD |
#23
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hmmmm
I have been running the K1 is standard trim for a few meetings now. decided sunday at Torch, needed to start "adjusting/changing" things.
Mr Saddler, the most awsome dude surgested putting the rear end on the higer setting holes. did this. was unsure of the result 1st round after the change but have to say it worked for a bumpy track(torch), will go back to the lower settings for SHRCCC as a little smoother and its awsome there. I also, added what a few people questioned as a LOT of under lipos weight. 110grams. The track was VERY wet, and i have to say made the car corner, grip and jump SOOOO much better. Well it did for me. Yes it was alot of weight as a 1st try but the car was so much more stable and jumped perfectly. that i will be keeping the huge weight for the wet, maybe half that for the dry to start, but not had any track time in the dry as yet to try it(love the UK weather). So, anyone struggling with jump/grip/handling, try some heavy weight(i use lead) under the pipos. you might like it..............
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XB4 & MORE , Team Xray, Team Gainsy Graphics, DPP Racing 2013 & 2014 OOPLE INVERNATIONAL BEER RACE RUNNER UP! FEEDBACK LINK =
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#24
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Yeah Core Rc springs
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Schumacher, Hobby Wing, Thunder Power, Anderson, Sanwa, Trishbits, P-Dub Racing, Rudebits, Inside Line, Nuclear RC, RC Domination, RPC |
#25
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And big bore shocks
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'There are two choices in life-Take it or leave it !' Yokomo - Nemoracing Sb Designs http://www.fairfueluk.com/ |
#26
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Hi Simon ,
Regarding the anti squat, I'm not sure what the setup sheet is showing with the alloy block settings ...... So front high, rear low, but then lower the front by 1.5mm with the shims. Is my understanding correct?
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Schumacher racing http://www.racingcars.com ne-rc.blogspot.com My Trader Feedback : www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25402 |
#27
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Think i can make out 3mm at the front none at the rear
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'There are two choices in life-Take it or leave it !' Yokomo - Nemoracing Sb Designs http://www.fairfueluk.com/ |
#28
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Yeah, I see that, but in the difference table it appears to read 1.5mm? The problem may be I don't understand how to read the setup sheet properly.
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Schumacher racing http://www.racingcars.com ne-rc.blogspot.com My Trader Feedback : www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25402 |
#29
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Unless the 3mm compensates for the front block being mounted in the 'high' position? If that's the case, what would be the advantage of running high front and low rear if the spacers are used to make the anti-squat the same anyway?
Even more confusing that the table itself tells you overall rear toe and not anti-squat too!
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Trader Feedback |
#30
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If you want to get the rear pin higher you will sometime hit the point when you can´t remove more washers.That will most likely happen in the front,so you put that one hole higher.As you want a short stack for bending reasons you leave the rear in the lower hole.
Cruise
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Team CS-Electronic Team Schumacher |
#31
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Glad it's not just me Andy.
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Schumacher racing http://www.racingcars.com ne-rc.blogspot.com My Trader Feedback : www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25402 |
#32
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I run the pin high front/ low rear combination because i feel for me it gives me the most balance on the car. I find running pin high all rounds means the car rotates through the corner too much and pin low means loss of forward traction again in my opinion. This is something i ran on my SX3 and when testing put on my K1 and it made a big difference.
What you have to remember is that if you dont space the front block down when running this combination, you would technically be running 4mm worth of anti squat as the difference in hole height is 4mm. I space the front pin down by 2.5mm, therefore giving a an overall antisquat of 1.5mm, hence 1.95 degrees of squat. The calculation is worked out the same for toe in and antisquat, its just a typo on the setup sheet. Ralf's point of having to run this configuration is not correct, its just personal preference for me. And yes I am running big bores at the moment. Hope this helps!
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Schumacher, Hobby Wing, Thunder Power, Anderson, Sanwa, Trishbits, P-Dub Racing, Rudebits, Inside Line, Nuclear RC, RC Domination, RPC |
#33
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Thanks Simon, it's good to get a bit of logic behind the setups. I'll give this setup a try on Sunday.
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Schumacher racing http://www.racingcars.com ne-rc.blogspot.com My Trader Feedback : www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25402 |
#34
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My recent setups have been posted on Petit RC (http://www.petitrc.com/setup/schumac...cherCatK1.html)
Worksop setup is here: http://www.petitrc.com/setup/schumac...rksop20130310/
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Yokomo - LMR |
#35
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camber link options rear
Hello all,
I was wondering if anyone can tell me if the following part would fit on a K1 U3529 (a conversion for the SX) If it fits it would give more rear camber link options instead of buying 3 different rear plates. Greetings Hans |
#36
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This part dosen´t fit on the K1. If you want the options you have to buy two parts U4169 & U4170, the third is standard in kit.
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Ulrich Rasmussen Denmark Danish 4WD champion 1989, 1997, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006 and 2007. www.racegallery.dk |
#37
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too bad
Hello,
Thanks for the reply, I will get the K1 parts then. Greetings Hans |
#38
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can anyone tell me the size of holes for the stock pistons? I am getting a 2nd hand K1 and for the life of me cannot find this info anywhere. Thanks. Also any pointers to useful upgrades will be appreciated.
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#39
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1.5mm
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Retired Racer |
#40
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The kit black pistons in the K1 are 1.3mm
Ive found the U3404 Alloy Yoke 7.5deg and U4160 Rear Alloy Block Conversion Set are usefull upgrade Mat
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WWW.SERVOSHOP.CO.UK |
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