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#21
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Having a head scratch moment
I'm running an LRP 8.5t (76t spur, 22 pin) on carpet and you could cook an egg on the chassis after 4 mins racing. Because the motor is so hot! I dont understand!! I have checked various set ups and most recommend the 76 spur. I'm thinking that the belt might be too tight. But.... I have done about 3 belts already in a year and I suspect I'm not running the belt tight enough and they are stripping. Could it be speedo? If anyone has any ideas please, please share them. Cheers in advance. Last edited by TheTallOne; 19-11-2014 at 10:24 PM. |
#22
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I am using a 24t pinion on mine with an 8.5 HPI, and no overheating problems at all
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Iain Schumacher Laydown Schumacher Cat L1 Schumacher RC Octane |
#23
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Does sound like you have a transmission problem to me, and if you've done three belts this year it does sound like something is amiss. How have the belts failed, snapped or frayed on one side?
If you take the pinion off the motor how easy does the transmission rotate? Any binding? I always find it a bit weird that Schuey never give any guidance in how tight the belt should be, I always gauge the belt tension by twisting the belt halfway alone the top run, you should be able to twist it 90 degrees without too much force. LRP's do like to run hot though. |
#24
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What speedo are you using as well? Does it have separate software for mod and stock, if so does it have the mod software loaded?
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#25
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Thanks for the quick reply
The belt always fails due to significant teeth reduction along roughly 3" of its length (never snapped a belt yet! [fingers crossed]). Removed the pinion gear to test transmission:- Feels smooth with no binding. Resistance of the drive feels a lot like a gear diff with 10K oil in it. i.e. if you spin the rear wheels then they come to a stop within approx 1 free wheel rotation. Also when you spin the rear axle by one wheel the diff does not activate. The belt easily rotates 90 degrees. I like your tip to gauge the belt by the way, I have only seen / been told to measure deflection which to me seems daft if as you don't have a set force applied. I so wish someone sold a belt tension like they do for timing belts on cars. I currently run a Vampire SR+ Speedo. I have never heard of different software for it and the manual does not mention that there is Mod/Stock options. I will look into that. Is it possible the speedo could be somehow giving the motor to much current? [The motor has not been tampered with or adjusted in anyway, its straight out the box] Thanks again for your thoughts on this. p.s. would the slipper being too tight overload the motor? [really grabbing at straws now] Last edited by TheTallOne; 20-11-2014 at 09:31 AM. |
#26
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Kf carpet setup required
Hi all.
I'm after a carpet base setup for the 1st generation KF please. The petitrc pages do t seem to be working... Cheers
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Website: http://www.wbmcc.co.uk/bingham-model-raceway.html Schumacher Cat Xls, Rc10 Team(retired), Mardave Cobra, SST 98 Rally Car, TT02 Rally car, Wpl-c24 and Element Enduro builders kit #71 #deaddogracing Autocare, unit 5 candleby Court, Cotgrave NG123RT. |
#27
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There are some on the schumacher website.
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#28
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Grass setup
Hi
Locking for a grass start setup for KF2 and K2. We have the Swedish championships next weekend and have never raced on grass, only astro and dirt. Not mutch on petitrc and Schumacher website. Thanks
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LD, L1, Mi7 |
#29
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With the KF2 on grass I'm finding Schumacher mini spike rears and low profile cut stagger fronts work well. I find the the low grip layout easier to drive than mid, it also makes it easier to get the weight further back which helps if the grip is low. If the grip is very low you can flip the rear wishbones to shorten the wheelbase and get some more rear traction.
Ball diff will be easier to drive. You may want to run pistons with bigger / more holes than kit if the surface is rough. The 1.8 / white Core rear spring will also help if the rear is loose. The kit roll centres / alignments work well. |
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