Tamiya Durga DB01 EP Buggy (A cheaper 501X?)

[sosidge]

Just in case anyone is interested I have just taken a couple of measurements from the Durga shocks (total length).

The fronts are approximately 77mm extended, 60mm compressed.

The rears are approximately 93mm extended, 65mm compressed.

Now as far as I can tell these are quite a lot shorter than the Associated shocks that I have some (older) measurements from, I think you would struggle to get proper travel if you fitted the AE shocks to a Durga.

[jimmy]

I've run the 501X shocks which are identical to B4 dimensions without problems. The rear has a bit more droop with the 501X shocks on, and the front looks pretty similar though I had a small limiter in the front 501X shocks.
There didn't seem to be any problems with up-travel.

I'll try get some measurements of them tonight

[DCM]

I am still waiting for my shocks from the tamiya shop guy.....

[mrbiccies]

Originally Posted by sosidge

Just in case anyone is interested I have just taken a couple of measurements from the Durga shocks (total length).

The fronts are approximately 77mm extended, 60mm compressed.

The rears are approximately 93mm extended, 65mm compressed.

Now as far as I can tell these are quite a lot shorter than the Associated shocks that I have some (older) measurements from, I think you would struggle to get proper travel if you fitted the AE shocks to a Durga.

I wonder how that compares with DF03 dampers??

[sosidge]

The more dimensions the merrier!

I wasn't 100% sure on the accuracy of my old measurements. I took them about 5 years ago, before th B4 shock bodies came out.

[jimmy]

Originally Posted by mrbiccies

I wonder how that compares with DF03 dampers??

DF03 kit shocks are the same shocks - apart from using a shorter rod end on the bottom of the rear durga shocks.
The df03 'hop up' shocks are simply too long for the Durga afaik.

[Elliott Hopkins]

Those kit shocks feel much better on the Durga than they did on the DI. More firm.

I had a look a Budgio's Durga at the weekend.

All in all it's a pretty nice car.

Elliott.

[DCM]

thats got something to do with the fact that Tamiya stuck 90wt oil in the kit...... but they feel nearly right for the car.

[jimmy]

haha
its the same oil as the DF03 - the springs are the real difference. not bad, but some decent shocks are of course better.

[ralphee]

Im holding out for shocks, not sure if its been mentioned but Tamiya are releasing a TRF set next year im told by a guy in Japan!

lee

[94eg!]

Originally Posted by ralphee

Im holding out for shocks, not sure if its been mentioned but Tamiya are releasing a TRF set next year im told by a guy in Japan!

lee

They are already listed as a hop-up for the DB01 on TamiyaUSA. No pictures or release date though.
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=54028

Originally Posted by TamiyaUSA.com

RC TRF Buggy Dampers
Item #54028 MSRP: $96.00

Improve your off-road R/C buggy�s suspension with this setof high-grade dampers. These aeration-type dampers feature a hard black coating to increase durability and reduce friction. Efficiency is further increased by utilizing titanium-coated piston rods for smoother travel. Set of 2 long and 2 short dampers will enable customization of one vehicle.
*Compatible Chassis: DB01, TRF501X, DF-03, DT-02

As for the standard kit shocks, I wouldn't give much thought to their lengths. The black plastic CVA-II shocks were originally designed back in 1990 for the Avante 2001. At least this is the first car they appear on. All the parts (except springs) are still the same to this day. As someone else already stated, the only differences are the lengths of the bottom ball connector, as well as any internal limiters. You can bet that 501X shock would be ideal...

[A.J. Gee]

Does anyone besides myself, find it pointless to attach the 4 outer screws (3x12mm) to the gear cover? I think that the smaller screws (2.6x8mm) do just fine in holding the cover on.

[jimmy]

the gear covers also stiffen the chassis up and strengthen it, they are a pain though. 8 screws just to see the spur.

[A.J. Gee]

Yeah exactly Jimmy! My whole purpose of that post was pretty much what you summed up in one word by saying a "pain." But now since you tell me that the screws actually have a purpose i guess i will be adding them when she is fitted with all of her proper electronics. I was wondering if anyone uses a power drill when tightening and removing screws? During my build of this chassis my hands were tore the hell up using my usual hand screwdriver. The screws on this particular chassis seemed very hard to get into as opposed to other ones i have built. The tip of my screwdriver actually chipped trying to get the 4 shock tower screws in.

[bender]

You can replace those screws with shorter ones. I found that 10mm screws had enough bite in the chassis to be effective.

I do find it ironic that one of the car's primary features (sealed drivetrain) is something that people are finding annoying

[Carlos69]

Got my 3M tap ready and raring to put to some good use...just the thing for my newly arrived DB01 titanium screw set....

[94eg!]

If the car turns out to be popular enough, I'll bet some company will come out with a center-cover that has a snap lid in the middle for quick pinion changes and slipper adjustment.

On a side note: Does anybody know the reason Tamiya didn't just use the old standard style tapping screws? Are they not fit for actual racing or something. I don't think I've ever had any problems with tapping screws on any of my bashers...

[DCM]

the self tapping screws loosen up to easily so no good in a racing application.

I dremmeled out the area around the motor so I could leave the cover in place and keep strength. Pics later.

[Toonz]

just bought the DB01

this car makes me feel that i have to decide on the motor that i have to use if not there's going to be a lot of screwing in and out.....and i can build my arm muscles

[budgio]

Stella have the slipper and front one way in stock now.