Kyosho RB6 thread

[Neil Skull]

Hi Dave,
I loved the RB5 and the Vega Version and now the RB6, the RB6 has similar handling to the RB5 Vega. I have found after talking to many people that the RB6 does react more positively to set up changes, the RB5 was not such a big reactor to set up change it was a little more docile.
I don't think you could have a good test with a car that was not set up and going well.
Next time you get a chance have a go with someone who has a different set up that is doing well.
The RB6 Vega looks like a great project Lewis does make some super kit, The Vega is a great car, you can get one cheap now second hand to save the expense of buying car and conversion. Im sure anyone would be happy with either car that's set up well!

[RogerM]

[QUOTE=racingdwarf;779783]

yer I'm just poking some fun before any one jumps on me

QUOTE]

Taken as meant

[deano43]

Hi all
I would like to respond to rogers excellent post which I agree entirely with , but I have to say the problem is that everyone can follow a set up but not everyone knows what the changes do to the car even though there are set up guides out there understanding what changes do so people can play with set ups to suite there driving style is another thing, I have said set up guide but getting to grips with all the different things you can do is another thing and its a general guide for off road cars. Only the individual knows what they need from there cars when they are racing and I am struggling with rb6 at the mo but sell it I think not i agree with roger that perseverance is the key but I wish I could get to grips with set up changes so I can make the right changes to suite me that's all and understand what I did
Regards
Delano

[tomtom]

A word from an average racer

I've raced Vega gen 1 and gen 2 as well as DB1 prior to the RB6.
2wd are my fave and I've been following closely Matt Owen, Kevin Lee and Tony advises and setups, adapting them for my own use and driving abilities ()
The first one told me wisely to stick with one car and focus on driving and learning that particular car behaviour so I did and drive the crap out of the 6.

After the first three months with the car I was very happy with its stability and jump capacity but I did not well at races. The car was safe but not fast and agile as I was used to (after the DB it was a huge gap).
Yet the best stock mid car of the market, awesome quality, very durable and coming from the RB5 a huge work from Kyosho on a lots of details.

I kept working on it and I've got a wonderfully balanced car now, very fast still safe and very durable. It took me a good 6 months to tune it up like this, trying various setups and parts and I'm glad I did. For sure this car is very responsive to setup changes and it means range is huge, yet almost everyone running one is very happy about it.

A (very) good driver can drive almost any car fast, even with a slow setup as he will always go for the best line and keep momentum. I need a more responsive car to help me coming back to a proper racing line !

Car is very close to Kev Lee setup with lighter oil in the front, small bores shocks and RB5 rear arms, Rudebits shorty craddle, Ghea front block and R1 wing for more lateral grip. Fast and safe (for me).

And it helped my driving a lot too. I'm very confident as I won't broke the car on every jumps, it can really take a beating, not saying that what I'm trying to do !

I know the car itself can win every heat I'm racing so it all come down to my driving and it feels good !

[adam_u]

Some new bits announced:

linky

ARB kit and adjustable alloy RR block for the mid motor and rear motor

[Gayo]

Best of all: LE MANS motors

[h0m3sy]

For out the box performance, there is no other 2wd available at the minute that can match the rb6. The first time I drove it, I had a huge smile on my face. I agree that the fast guys can drive almost anything quickly but for the average clubman like myself, this car just gave me so much confidence. I've driven both the Schumacher and the Durango 2WD cars before I got my rb6, safe to say, I find it better than both.

[Shimmy]

I just bought one of these (still in transit), 2nd hand with a few upgrades already and just wanting to konw the differences between the different arms, hubs and other little bits?

Like "type B" hubs, "middle arms", "type B" pivot block etc...


Also, will be replacing my ESC sometime soon, currently using a Hobbywing XeRun 60A.
Looking at either a Speed Passion Reventon Pro or the Viper VTX10-BE.
Anyone used either of these?
Any opinions on quality, feel, reliability?

Will also be replacing my old analog Sanwa servo with a Savox low profile, unless anyone has anything different to recommend?
Would really like a Ko Propo servo but bit harder to justify the price.

[gixxer]

I use the sp reventon pro in both my cars RB6 and DB1and they have been faultless, nice and smooth and plenty of power if you want it

As for all the type b things and all that I'm sorry I can't help there it's way over my head, but one thing I am sure about is you will love the RB6

[Neil Skull]

Not forgetting all the Orion drivers too

[h0m3sy]

Originally Posted by Neil Skull

Not forgetting all the Orion drivers too

Now that's impressive

[Shimmy]

Originally Posted by gixxer

I use the sp reventon pro in both my cars RB6 and DB1and they have been faultless, nice and smooth and plenty of power if you want it

As for all the type b things and all that I'm sorry I can't help there it's way over my head, but one thing I am sure about is you will love the RB6

Cool, thanks mate.

I'm leaning towards the Reventon Pro anyway, a fair bit cheaper (having to buy the programing box with the Viper) and the biggest advantage I see of the Viper is its smaller size and weight.

I can't wait till it gets here, I would've loved to have built it myself but $250-ish worth of upgrades then some spares on top made me go this way.
But I'll be buying the RT6 eventually after it comes out anyway.

[Shimmy]

So I tried to figure it out myself, pretty sure it's still mostly wrong and missing bits but...
I know it's probably no use for the RB6, just wanna know what I'm getting myself into/trying to understand the progression of the buggies and the differences they made.

I'm assuming the longer arms help with steering and forward bite and stability over bumps and higher roll resistance?
While the std/shorter arms lock the rear end with more side bite/less steering, also having a lower roll resistance?

To my understanding the different length arms also require different length bones.

Arms (MID=mid arm shock mounting)?
UM503 (RB5, short/std front, rear?)
UM521 (SP, 2x shock mounts)
UM521-1 (SP-TYPE B-MID, rear arms 2mm longer )
LAW43-01 (NCG/MID arms, from conversion kit LAW43)
UM566 (SP2 WC-MID, 2mm longer arms)
UM713 (RB6 Rear)
UM712 (RB6 Front)

Hubs
UM519 (SP, Type B)
UM519-2 (SP2, Type B2, Camber Links 2mm further out)
Alloy hubs have combined mounting positions?
LA244-0 (RB5-Middle, same camber positions as UM519 but with vertical adjustment)?
LA244-05 (same as above but .05 toe).


Suspension mounts
UM567 (SP2 WC, "Type C", to be used with UM566)

[danmurphy]

It's my understanding that the geometry of all the rear wishbones are the same. If I'm not mistaken, the 2mm difference is in the wheelbase when using the RB5/ZX5 Middle wishbones depending on which way round you mount them.
The Type B/B2 hubs have different ballstud locations for different length camber links. If you get the alloy upgrade hubs they have all 4 ballstud locations.

[njc11]

Ok..

Arms available are... All 2mm approx longer..

LA243 original Lazer ZX5... Mid arm with an extra hole for shock mounting, from memory these are what was first used on the RB5 for a wider rear end

UM521 then came out which was the same wishbone minus a hole AND HAD AN RB5 front wishbone in the pack

UM521-1 same again but only 1 shock mounting hole which was positioned in between the 2 you would find on the UM521

They then did a worlds kit for the RB5 UMW517 which had the motor cantering mod as well as wishbones etc

UM566 then came out for the worlds RB5 front end which had same rear wishbone but the longer front... This was used in conjunction with UM567 bulkhead set you also needed the different hinge pin holder brace UM568. They also had the worlds slipper set which I was surprised not to see in with the RB6, UM570, UM571, UM572.. This had vented plates red pads which were harder and thicker, then used a stronger spring etc..

Then they brought out...

LA272 same rear wishbone but with a Lazer front arm.

Then we had LAW43-01 same wishbone but with the cut out for the drop link which makes in similar to the RB6 wishbone.. Again this came with a Lazer front wishbone.

At present this rear wishbone seems favourable on the RB6 as seems to help the car mid to exit, keeps it flattery and more consistent..

At the worlds warm up, drivers were back using the RB6 rear arm UM712 but in conjunction with the sooner to be released rear anti roll bar UMW708.. My feeling is this will achieve the same feel as using the flat arms.. I alWays used to use a bar on my MCS..

If you flip the rear wishbones you can achieve a shorter car..

Hope this helps!

[Shimmy]

Awesome, thanks, appreciate it, taking some of the confusion away, lol.

Why couldn't they have made it more simple? haha.

[danmurphy]

Thanks Nick, clears a few things up. Do you know if UM570 and UM571 will fit straight onto the RB6 slipper shaft? Do I need UM572 spring assembly or does the original one seat correctly?

[njc11]

No problem on the information..

For the WC Slipper you need all 3 parts.. i have one to try but TBH after trying the AVID Triad i dont think i will be..

Dont get me wrong i ran the WC slipper on my MCS and found it MUCH better, just happy with Triad at the moment..

Cheers

Nick

[RogerM]

http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=130462

Arm info in there mate.

+1 on the TRIAD. I find it does everything they claim it does. Hopefully Kyosho will do their own version soon as I'd always prefer to keep my cars pure Kyosho.

[h0m3sy]

When will the rb6 ARB's be available in the UK?