Team Tekin Q&A

[stumpiey]

Hi

does anyone know the kv rating of the 13.5 so i can work out weather to go up or down with my gearing

cheers

[ianjoyner]

Originally Posted by Randy p

You can simply change reverse strenght and increase it's power. Same goes for decreasing the brake strength.

Timing does affect the speed slightly but not as much as you'd think.

Thanks I think I found the main problem. I've been running in the Fwd/Rev-no-delay motor type, when I tried going back to Fwd/Rev-delay the brakes were much smoother. So it's as though when the reverse delay is turned off you never really get brakes, it just goes straight into reverse, even when you moving forwards? Is this supposed to happen?

I only seemed to have smooth brakes in the reverse delay mode?

[Randy p]

Yes that's exactly what will happen, instant reverse.

You should have good smooth brakes in forward only also.

[markwilliamson2001]

Hi,

I have a Tekin RS, with a Losi 8.5 Motor, in a RC10B4. I am looking for a starting point on the settings, when running indoors on carpet. I am running 81/25 gearing. I do not have a hotwire, and am a little confused by the lights system at present. Does it go: 1, 1&2, 2, 2&3 etc etc, or is this completely wrong?

Things I really need to know are:

Drag Brake (DB)
Brake Strength (BS)
Neutral Width (NW)
Current Limiter (LM)

Also, what would I change things to if the track was a little slippery (e.g. Worksop etc)?

Thanks,

[Lowie]

I installed the new software (v203) on a laptop and have problems with the ADVANCED-button not functioning.
(the extra menu does not fold/slide open)
Anyone advice?

[DCM]

I had that problem the first time I ran it, the second time it worked fine.

[chris_dono]

hey guys, anyone running an X12 10.5 on 203 in 2wd ? Care to share a starting point ?

I know for 6.5 and below it's more a case of dual mode, but wanted to have a play with 10.5 and see what that's like.

I've started out with
start rpm: 5000 (near as i can get it)
end rpm: 25000
turbo: off
boost: 30

geared at 83/20

[DCM]

drop your start rpm to around 2500 and the end RPM to about 12000 and use a little boost.

[Lowie]

does a motor-ESC-combo run more efficient when running sensored compared to sensorless or dualmode? I.e. will it run cooler?


And why running dualmode in the first place? I run dualmode when running offroad (where i do not need all the tinkering with ESC-setups) as I thought it would be safer as we run the risk of having a sensorwire-contats being disturbed by mod, dirt ...

[chris_dono]

Originally Posted by DCM

drop your start rpm to around 2500 and the end RPM to about 12000 and use a little boost.

thanks, will change it tonight

[DCM]

it stops the motor feeling a little flat in the mid range, plus run the motor timing at 0' to get torque for initial spool up.

[DCM]

Originally Posted by Lowie

does a motor-ESC-combo run more efficient when running sensored compared to sensorless or dualmode? I.e. will it run cooler?


And why running dualmode in the first place? I run dualmode when running offroad (where i do not need all the tinkering with ESC-setups) as I thought it would be safer as we run the risk of having a sensorwire-contats being disturbed by mod, dirt ...

if you run in sensored, and you lose your sensor wire, the esc reverts to sensorless, same in Dual Drive. Sensored can give you a lot more RPM, it will run a little cooler but the motor becomes harder to gear, and if you get the settings wrong, in sensored, you will have a screaming mod motor!!

[Lowie]

Originally Posted by DCM

if you run in sensored, and you lose your sensor wire, the esc reverts to sensorless, same in Dual Drive. Sensored can give you a lot more RPM, it will run a little cooler but the motor becomes harder to gear, and if you get the settings wrong, in sensored, you will have a screaming mod motor!!

Aha, thx ... but then, what is the purpose, advantage of dualmode?? Just to make it easier on the gearing-choice?

[DCM]

Dual Mode makes the mod motors (6.5, 5.5) a lot easier to drive.

[chris_dono]

Originally Posted by DCM

drop your start rpm to around 2500 and the end RPM to about 12000 and use a little boost.

Worked a charm thanks was quicker than some 6.5's out there today at the petit race Ended up going to 40 boost for the final to see if it made a difference, but not much in the end, think 30 is good enough tbh. motor never got hotter than 35C all day


Going to run it tomorrow in 4WD with a 9t Delta (about a 5.0) on dual mode (80 timing) and see how it gets on with that.

[Lowie]

Originally Posted by DCM

Dual Mode makes the mod motors (6.5, 5.5) a lot easier to drive.

and why is that?

sorry if I have all these questions but I still was not able to understand all the different new parameters that the v203 software offers.
boost, turbo, start rpm, end rpm ...

what does start at this start rpm?
Is "end rpm" the maximum rpm the motor will do?
What is the difference between boost and turbo?

[DCM]

OK, let me explain what the 'Advanced' settings do, which only work in 'sensored' mode.

When you select 'Sensored' you have two sliders in the main window, being 'Timing Boost' and Turbo. Timing Boost is the amount of timing that gets added to the motor over an RPM range. Turbo will only come in, after a set delay when you have hit full throttle.

Start and End RPM, defines the RPM range in which you want the Timing Boost added onto the motor, so if you only have a small RPM range between 'Start' and 'End', will mean the amount of timing boost, that you have selected, will come in hard, making your motor feel aggressive. If you raise the End RPM up, you are increasing the RPM range that the timing boost comes in, making the motor feel smoother.

Timing Ramp and Turbo Delay, are all to do with full throttle Timing Adjustment. If you sent Turbo to 10' on the slider, set the timing delay to .5 and timing ramp to 1, that will mean, that when you hit full throttle, the esc will wait 0.5 sec and then will start adding on 10' of timing, with Ramp 1 being the softest setting.

If you were to set Turbo at 10', delay to .2 and timing ramp to 3, that will give you a timing increase of 10', after 0.2 sec of full throttle, and bring it in 3 times faster than at ramp 1 setting.

Obviously, gearing is different, depending on these settings, but it makes a big difference also.

I hope that makes things a lot clearer, but if you need any clarification, no problem, I will try to explain it better.

[Lowie]

thx DCM

Timing Boost is the amount of timing that gets added to the motor over an RPM range

now ... about Timing boost. What does the added timing do exactly. What does it change or in what way will the motor react differently.


I think one of the things that make it not so clear to me, is maybe that with timing, once the timing as in time is meant (a difference in time) .. and maybe on other occasions the timing of the motor: changing the position of the spools or magnets in a motor, in a degree of an angle.
Or am i completely wrong here?

[edit]
I just remember this.
When I drove in our local Tamiya-cup, we had two types of motors that we could use, a red 23T and a blue 23T-tamiya motor (brushed). The blue one had good torque (=acceleration, power ... am I correct?) and the red one had less torque but went higher in revs, and thus able to achieve higher top speed.
I think it had to do with a difference in brushes, and thus a difference in how the juice (electricity) was send to the spools.
Does a change in timing provoce the engine to have lots of Torque at low rpm (revs) .. and change it's characteristics so that it has a higher max rpm also, thus giving the benefits of both.

[mark79]

As i understand it the esc adds more timing later so you can get the benefits of a decent low end torque from having your motor physically set to o degree. You just dial in how it comes in and when using the sliders?

[carborush]

Originally Posted by Randy p

The Futba radios must have the throttle channel reversed. Make sure that ANY abs function is turned off completely. You can turn it back on after you've calibrated.

hi
i have just bought a RS pro esc
when calibrating with my futaba 3vcs (with spektrum module) the forward is reverse and reverse is forward like described above
solved it by reversing the throttle channel on the transmitter
but : is this normal ? it feels odd ? am I doing something wrong ?
is there no other way of reversing the throttle in the esc ?