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#41
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Quote:
A little tightness is ok as long as you can't "count teeth" while you're turning the drivetrain. If you still don't like it then try running it in with a standard motor hooked up to 4-5V for an hour or so on your workbench and see what it feels like after. |
#42
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Hmm, there is one point of about 3teeth where you can "count teeth" each revolution. However there are other parts of the revolution where the drivetrain is totally free!?
Would you suggest shimming it more away from the diff egar and running it loose, or give the car a few runs and hope it improves the tight spot? |
#43
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Did you make sure there was no flashing left on the gears befor you built the diffs? I suppose it's difficult to say at a distance. Whatever you do don't run it loose or you'll just end up chewing everything up.
Hook it up to a mabuchi or johnson can motor and let it run for an hour and see what it does then. |
#44
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Yeah I'll try and run it in, there was no flashing but it looked like the "pinion" wasn't totally true, I think thats why it runs looser then tight.
Presumably running tight is going to affect duration/possibly overheat the eletrics, while loose will chew the gears? |
#45
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Run it in with toothpaste
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#46
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hahaha. Toothpaste? Colgate or aquafresh. I wonder what colgate sensitive is like
__________________
Schumacher Racing - Reedy - Schelle - TKR - Bandicoot Bodies - MIP - Nextlevelrc - Trishbits - Moss Models |
#47
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Nicer on the teeth
But seriously, toothpaste is a very fina abrasive |
#48
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Running it in at the moment, sounds nasty at low revs, but ok higher up!
Think the plan is to run it and see if it destroys itself! |
#49
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Dave,
I had to move my pinion gear away from the crown wheel i put the shims on the other side of the greabox casing to do this, i then just ran it on the bench, my car is noisey ish but it is also very free. Remember though it is a tub chassis, it will sound worse because of this |
#50
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If I leave it running too tight what will be the impact it will have?
Trying to decide whether to loosen it or not! PS sounds like you had a good day with it! |
#51
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Dummest question yet, but I definitely want to get this right before cutting the lugs off my servo!!
I take it from the layour on pics I have seen that the servo outgear/where the horn goes sits on the outside end of the servo in the car, not the inside? I've destroyed a few servo's in the last few months removing lugs (don't ask!) so want to make sure I get it right!! |
#52
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Correct with the servo dave spline to the outside
The car felt good today, made some big steps forwards And running it tight is not really advised, i would get ti right through shimming it, then if it does wear you can always re-shim |
#53
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Re shimmed the front (have forgotten to regrease though!) as per yours last night Lee, way better now thanks!
Rear is a little tight, but smooth so think I'll leave it alone! With the servo mounting, is there a spare ball stud/nut somewhere in the kit? Looking from Garcia's car that the stud goes on the bottom of the servo arm? |
#54
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There should be a link in the kit but i have used a longer stud and a 2mm spacer to try and level the link out a bit, it does depend what servo horn you use though, mine was from a b4
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#55
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hello,
What is the size off the ball bearing in the slipper outdrive please??? thanks ! |
#56
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Maxoo, you may have to wait for the answer. They are at the first national of the year in kidderminster
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#57
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thanks
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#58
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Hi Maxoo,
Don't know sorry, did you ever get the manual, it may be in the parts in the back? If not I'm at the national tomorrow (weather permitting!) and I think the Aero guys are there, I can ask for you if you like? Dave |
#59
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I don't have the manual
Thanks for your help ! ++ |
#60
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nobody have a caliper for help me???
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