new Durango - Page 4

DaveG28 · #61 02-02-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by oracleone

Here is what I like...

1. Easy diff. access.
2. Out drive boots (for some reason they are not shown in the above picture).
3. Aluminum caster block (lets hope they include 25 & 30 deg.).
4. Sway bars.
5. Thick carbon fiber shock towers.

Here is what I don't care for...

1. Aluminum chassis (why go through the process of including the carbon towers and then using aluminum for the pan? Aluminum chassis can cause receiver issues, shorting issues, & weigh more).
2. Plastic shock caps... hum, duh?
3. Looks as though you'll have to play around with different components in order to get everything to fit.
4. Hard to say from that angle... but it looks like the motor screws are hard to get to, they are on most 4wds though.
5. Plastic front deck/servo stay.

What I'm questioning...

1. LRP stickers on a car load with Orion products, these guys are rivals!!!
2. The price.
3. How much they are going to make me spend on extras in order to make the car track worthy.
4. Who was the hack that painted the body.
5. How much it weighs.

The kit itself looks fairly decent. Wonder if anybody on this forum has driven it yet... preferably somebody that does not have an interest in that company. I'm curious about the battery configuration. I hate to say this at the risk of sounding like a snob but nobody in their right mind would set the last generation Durga on the track at U.S. regional races (unless they were getting paid and they had access to unobtainium parts). I like the new car though, and it appears that they have more of a racing train of thought with this design. I'd for sure like to try one out!!!

They look incredibly similar to Yokomo shocks to me!

Umm, Durga?

Rebelrc · #62 02-02-2009

Oracleone Lots of drivers prefere ali chasis over carbon or plastic they have a very sure footed feel that absorbes shock very efficiently and dissapates heat amazingly....compared to other materials it is also extremley durable

so no need for top deck to keep the c.g low and easier to maintain

The shock caps are plastic so as to lower the C.G and also in a big wishbone removing shunt the shock top snaps rather than the shocktower/shaft they are the best material for the job just like the ali for the chasis and the carbon for the towers etc
all the materials used on this car are asigned correctly for there performance/durability and will be very strong/quick

neat touch the hinged steering front brace thingy to alow servo/steering component access

as for the radio instal it should be no problem at all unless your running gear from the 80s ......much easier than early prototype and that runs all modern radio gear fine
the motor should pop out on three screws so the then you can acess those motor screws

this car shouldnt require any upgrading at all it will be phenominal out of the box

hope this helps

JensK · #63 02-02-2009

Man, I love the looks of this car...
It looks rigid, has good weight balance, and easy to maintnence.
I`m getting more and more confused every day on what to drive in the 09`season.
Its been a long time since the electric buggy market was as healthy as it is now...

oracleone · #64 03-02-2009

Okay, a few questions because I'm trying to get a dialog going here. I have found... owning cars with all three types of chassis that the carbon fiber on my B44 has held up better than the other two. I heard guys chatting about using CA to seal the edges but I don't really see the need in off road. I have a Kyosho Triumph (Circa 91) and even the flimsy carbon fiber like parts were fine after years of use... I still have the darn thing, lol. Is heat an issue anymore? I guess it would be if you were using NiMH and brushed motors, however I cannot get my 5.5 over 165 deg. and I feel like I'm geared tall. I would be worried about a short circut from my battery pack rubbing on the chassis and the thin layer of sand between the two. You could insulate the chassis from the battery but that is just one more thing to clean. As far as wanting flex or none at all that could be acheived by the thickness of both materials. I'm not sure that the small amount of top deck would be that detrimental to the center of gravity. I'm willing to go out on a limb and wagger to say that the carbon fiber they make now would require even modest chassis bracing. So is it more about preferance? I know that my carbon RC cars feel very nimble almost to a fault, as for the others they are more fogiving. Graphite parts were all the rage a few years back... they were very ridgid and very fragile. They would give you a very precise feel (esp. in corners) and they would punish you if you over jumped a tripple by a foot by breaking without so much as a crash. They were like china in a wind storm.

I have really come to hate plastic shock caps... esp. the A.E. ones. I love the caps on the Kyosho and the ease of the rebuild on the Losi's. If they could make a shock like the Losi with the no cap on top and a aluminum seal cap for the bottom do you think that would be best? I think the top shock screw would break before the tower does, either that or I'm real lucky. I've replaced a bent one on two occasions.

I think it is a tight fit at best... as far as the electronics are concerned. I run the JR 9100S, Futaba 604 rec., TC Sphere, and the AMB. What do you use? I could see clearance issues with those products. I run the Trak Power saddles, but hardcase LiPo's are not even tech'ed here in the states that is why I mentioned battery issues. I have however seen three cars smoke, catch on fire, and then melt three times over the last ten years or so.

Every car I've owened has required something extra to make it track worthy. I'm not talking about upgrades... you kind of assume there aren't any when you drop 5 bills on an electric car. The B44 required a LiPo brace, a different rear upper deck plate, and a different body for fellas running a fan (let me tell you it gets hot here). There are certain things you kinda have to expect. Like, what is the point in selling a race kit with tires anymore? I may change tire treads three times as the track goes from loose, to blue, to black. What sort of changes have you made to your vehicle or do you run it box stock?

Last of all I'm not trying to be smug... I really do like the kit. I notice rear anti-squat numbers etched in the aluminum, that is real classy and helpful. You no longer would have to remove the battery or the rear bulkhead to see what your running. I'm not a person to really sing praises, sorry that is just me. I'd like to see a car that took the very best design aspects of all cars and wrapped it up into one awesome off-road kit. I guess I'd better start building.

oracleone · #65 03-02-2009

This is a Tamiya car? The Durga (If you were wondering???): http://www.oople.com/rc/photos/reviewtamiyadurga/index.html
Then there is the 501X, which looks very good. Belt drive cars don't hold up well on our tracks so I can't make the comparison because nobody owns that car around here.

DaveG28 · #66 03-02-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by oracleone

This is a Tamiya car? The Durga (If you were wondering???): http://www.oople.com/rc/photos/reviewtamiyadurga/index.html
Then there is the 501X, which looks very good. Belt drive cars don't hold up well on our tracks so I can't make the comparison because nobody owns that car around here.

Hi mate,

This isn't a Tamiya (I know the Durga is, but the Durango isn't), the company is called Durango, it's a couple of European guys. This is designed as a pure bred racer, so isn't really comparable to a Tamiya Durga!

Rebelrc · #67 03-02-2009

this has got to be a wind up!

triumphs were frp.....the shocks look like they can be filled from either end on the durango.....if heats not an issue why do you write about fans and it gets hot here
most chasis are conductive (carbon)
i run the same size gear as you in a smaller( Thinner)durango 2005 no probs
is this a wind up!!!!!!!i am sorry if it isnt

oracle one why dont you search some forums about durango (not durga) and see how antisapated this car is

and what race pedigree it has
thanks mate

stegger · #68 03-02-2009

Wet myself again !! and spilt my coffee

even more fantastic than the old pics, geared and oil filled diffs

The only worry i have will be availibility of parts etc, does anybody know who will distribute this ?

SHY · #69 03-02-2009

I think that's way too early to say.

My guess is that they'll have to work out a distributor network from ground zero. So it'll take time probably. I hope they can get a deal with some of the large Hong Kong or US based webshops, that way it would be available globally.

I've been importing RC stuff myself in the past, the company still exists. Worst case I'll just have to do it myself

DCM · #70 03-02-2009

I see no problem selling direct to the shops rather than being tied to a distributor. In the end, this is a 'boutique' car and won't be needed in ALL shops, but a select few who can keep a good stock of spares (cue DMS Racing lol)

SHY · #71 03-02-2009

Good point!

I've been thinking about this for a while... everybody seems to outsource production to China (have noe idea as to Durango!). Why not place the webshop/warehouse there and outsource that part as well? They can receive the orders and manufature / keep stock accordingly. And shipping in 3 days should be fine!

The owners can then focus on development, testing and marketing (web mainly).

stegger · #72 03-02-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by SHY

Good point!

I've been thinking about this for a while... everybody seems to outsource production to China (have noe idea as to Durango!). Why not place the webshop/warehouse there and outsource that part as well? They can receive the orders and manufature / keep stock accordingly. And shipping in 3 days should be fine!

The owners can then focus on development, testing and marketing (web mainly).

Like X-FACTORY

oracleone · #73 03-02-2009

Thanks for the info. Dave,

For some reason they had the Durango logo kit info. posted next to the Tamiya stats. There is not too much info. on Euro racing other than oople, you are a great resource. I see what Lee Martin was saying about U.K. racing drivers being less approachable. When it is 95-100 deg. with 90% humity not running a fan is not an option.

DaveG28 · #74 03-02-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by oracleone

Thanks for the info. Dave,

For some reason they had the Durango logo kit info. posted next to the Tamiya stats. There is not too much info. on Euro racing other than oople, you are a great resource. I see what Lee Martin was saying about U.K. racing drivers being less approachable. When it is 95-100 deg. with 90% humity not running a fan is not an option.

Your welcome with the info, where are you based, that's very high humidity!

jimmy · #75 03-02-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by oracleone

I see what Lee Martin was saying about U.K. racing drivers being less approachable.

oracleone · #76 04-02-2009

I race mainly in Florida. My current rides include (2) RC8's, T4, and B44 (I'm not brand loyal, just invested!!!). It does get very hot here in the summer. The fine people over at Jconcepts have been helping with my 4wd vehicles. I consider myself more of a mod truck kinda guy. I'm trying to break the mold and get in the thick of a very competitive 4wd mod class regional series. Yup, Lee is an okay fella in my book... Paul too.

Darren Boyle · #77 04-02-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by DCM

I see no problem selling direct to the shops rather than being tied to a distributor. In the end, this is a 'boutique' car and won't be needed in ALL shops, but a select few who can keep a good stock of spares (cue DMS Racing lol)

Maybe.....