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#81
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Im using 2mm spacers under the ballstuds on the front bulkhead.
I used losi black front and pink rears last sunday,car felt good but maybe a little stiff,next time out i will be starting with blue front/yellow rears
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Cobra Racing Products,Penguin Custom Bodyshells,Ultimate RC Workshop,RC Car Zone |
#82
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Ta very mucha's so shall I order them then Blue f/yellow r then
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BUDS BALLS
BIG AN SAGGY E REVO BAJA,SS TS REED All The Gear,and No Idea!! 4PKS,4PL PILLOW CASE CREW http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29834 |
#83
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Jason
Thanks for the update on the shells, just ordered http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hobao-H2-P...item3f20af4243
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Hobao H2 Pro xbox/ps3/Wii U : budge1972 (add me) |
#84
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i think ull find you can put the motor plate on whichever side you like. you just need to run the layshaft the other way.
Seeing as it is a durango box, i set mine to be the same side as the rango when using 4 gear gearbox
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Stephen Smith Answer RC Team HB Racing | Team Orion | Xpert | Racing Experience |
#85
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sorry to butt in, just joined the site. im looking at purchasing one of these this week.
its been hard to decide which car to choose as there are so many but after reading this thread and the car being in my price range its the one im going to go for. only reason for me not getting one will be if my offer on a schumacher sx3 is accepted on ebay or not. i expect it not to be as it was quite low. the reason i butted in was to ask you guys a favor, with this being my first car and first build! since being around 14 years old and building a tamiya monster beetle and mardave meteor lol. could one of you great ppl put up a list for me of everything i will need to purchase along side the kit to have it fully complete and able to pop along to a meeting to join in. as in, what size brushless motor, esc, lipos, shock oil a complete list so i can purchase these and build the car on my return home from this trip at work. it will all be home waiting for me i have a dx6i transmitter which i plan to use to start off with until i decide if i want to get something else. so just need the receiver for the radio side of things. thank you. |
#86
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it really depends on how much you want to spend and what ure local club runs. Off road is generally open class with regards to motors etc
the most commonly run motor for 2wd would be a 7.5t, and i would personally recommend the hpi flux pro. They are around £55 and are superb. esc wise you have many options and budgets. 2wd is my main class and as such i run the hobbywing v3, but this is around £140. in my 4wd which is less serious for me i run the hobbywing 60A v2.1. You can get these for about £55 new and are more than adequate. I used to run an 8.5 on mine in 2wd and it was fine. lipos again, what's ure budget. I run the ace gens 65c stick packs which u can get from giantshark for about £32 each. They are roar approved and seem pretty good. You can spend more on bigger name brands if u like, but i tend to think they are all made in one of 3 factories anyway so isn't much difference. shock oil, core rc is available from most online shops. Id say you will want a range between 300cst and 700cst jump onto ralls racing website and give Nathan a call his mobile number is listed on there, and tell him i sent you his way. He will be happy to discuss anything further with you and may do you a good deal on a job lot to get you going. He is a top racer and very helpful Quote:
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Stephen Smith Answer RC Team HB Racing | Team Orion | Xpert | Racing Experience |
#87
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oh, depending on what motor u get u will need a pinion too. One comes in the kit and is a 24 tooth, but if ure running 7.5t then u may want a 21 or 22 as a starter. Ive put 22 on mine but not run it yet so cant say if it needs dropping or raising.
also, not essential but a good idea is spring. The kit ones are far too hard on the rear. I am changing to the losi springs as that's what most people i race with use. Makes things easier. Means i have 2 full Durango spring sets for sale if you wanted to save some money on a full selection. They are a tight fit on the collars on the h2 shocks but fit the rest of it perfectly. other things to be aware of when building.... - the manual tells you to put a .5 shim on each of the rear inner hinge pins. I found that you don't need them as there is no play without. If you do have play on the arm then with the kit spacers you may need to use a reamer very lightly to open the whole a bit. They are slightly too small to go over the hing pins. Alternatively buy a pack or two of the Schumacher 3x7 spacers. You get 18 per pack in .5, 1 and 2mm sizes. Ive ordered two just because i hate using plastic spacers. - page 15 of the manual has the anti squat section. It doesn't explain anything and might leave you scratching your head. Basically you get 3 longer inserts and 3 shorter ones. the longer ones are to go under the rear-front block and this is what sets your anti squat. The thinnest one gives you 1 degree, next is 2 and the thickest gives you 3 degrees. the shorter inserts are for the rear-rear block. These go on top of the block though, and are used to keep the gearbox level. So basically whatever you used under the front block, you need to put the same height spacer on top of the rear block. - the only other thing i have found in the length of the rear shocks could be a little longer as there isn't much droop. Not that you need alot. All i have done is unwind the shock end so that the shaft from body bottom to end top is 30mm i think. Ill double check this over the weekend and let u know if any different. just take your time with the build. In true Taiwanese style the manual is a bit lacking in detail but i managed it all first time after i got my head round the anti squat settings.
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Stephen Smith Answer RC Team HB Racing | Team Orion | Xpert | Racing Experience |
#88
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Thank you a lot mate, they are a lot more technical now then just bolt together and go like when I was younger.
As I said I have an offer pending on an sx3 at the moment, as soon as I know either way ill be making my purchase of one of these. I saw them last week and never really knew much about them, or if spares were avaliable so put it to one side. I was toying with the idea of a losi 22 but these h2 are a nicer price as a starter car. |
#89
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Ok ..... Who grabbed all the shock towers from MB models?
They went quick
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Hobao H2 Pro xbox/ps3/Wii U : budge1972 (add me) |
#90
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Not guilty Nick,HONEST
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Cobra Racing Products,Penguin Custom Bodyshells,Ultimate RC Workshop,RC Car Zone |
#91
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Guilty
and white wheels
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Trader feedback:-http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=78095 It was once said to me, if you light the blue touch paper you need to stand well back[/CENTER] |
#92
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why bother lol... they are beefy as feck and aint gonna break.
i just got a second car for spares. much more cost efficient at the kit price
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Stephen Smith Answer RC Team HB Racing | Team Orion | Xpert | Racing Experience |
#93
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Loads more spares and kits on there way to us!
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#94
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Quote:
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#95
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Pm's checked, yes it is your sx3 andy that I was waiting to hear about.
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#96
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i have purchased my H2 tonight!
please have a look at the electrics ive chosen and see if they will fit/work ok in the car and tell me what else i should purchase ready. motor http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...arehouse_.html ESC http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...arehouse_.html 2X LIPOS http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...arehouse_.html i have no idea what servo so i put this in the basket? http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...arehouse_.html ive also bought a couple of different sized pinions, losi 22 springs and the schumacher spacers. im going turnigy, simply because my dad uses it in his all his rc stuff and loves the gear. |
#97
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Jase whack a thin roll bar on the back and some really thick diff grease in the ride was fine mate
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who knows who cares |
#98
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Sorry thinking back in the day thick oil not grease
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#99
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That battery won't work with that esc
Ull want a 7.4v 2S Quote:
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Stephen Smith Answer RC Team HB Racing | Team Orion | Xpert | Racing Experience |
#100
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Those lipo's ain't gonna fit bud, you need 2s ones (2 cell 7.4v) not the 4s (4 cell 14.8v) ones you've got there plus if you try hooking them up to that ESC you'll blow it apart instantly.
With regards to the ESC personally I'd be looking for a higher rated one maybe 120a instead of 60a your looking at. The motor looks fine to me but make sure you get a sensored ESC to go with it. The servo isn't what I'd choose either it's too slow for use in steering a 1/10th scale buggy you're ideally looking for something thats got a speed of about 0.09-0.07 with a max torque of about 10kg's I'd recommend having a look at the Savox 1257 that's what I use and I love it.
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