Cat K1 Aero

[mark christopher]

stiffen the damping

[sime46]

Is the diff oil too thick/thin?

[Dave Dodd]

Using rims n tires I already have glued up and getting tested on Friday.

[cryer-evo]

My diffs have
12500 front
10000 rear

Shox
30w losi front
25w losi rear
Kit pistons

Front camber -2
Rear camber -1

Tyres where ballistic buggy green

Every thing els kit
Felt rilly good apart from it getting the odd tank slapper on but it was very slippery icy astro track

I have now put
25w oil front
20w oil rear
Fills much better on the bench but track time will tell if it's any better

[juergen_jl]

Why are you using more camber in the front as in the rear?

[cryer-evo]

It was very wet out on track so left rears as up right as I could get away with with out it grip rolling and the front added a bit more camber again to stop grip roll but still have as much drive out of the corners this might not work for every one but it worked for me

[RETRO R/C]

Hi guys,

For those of you drivers running the brilliant CAT K1 - and want to upgrade to the new Aero spec - here is a list of the parts you will need to do the complete conversion:

U4502 - Carbon Chassis
U4503 - Carbon Top Deck
U5123 - Body, mask and decals
U5124 - Rear Aero wing
U4365 - Black Hex rear wheel
U4495 - Black Hex front wheel
U4174 - Gear Diff (you will need 2)
U4498 - Alloy Layshaft mount - LH
U4499 - Alloy Layshaft mount - RH
U4497 - Front nut guard
U4489 - Rear nut guard
U4388 - Rear alloy wheel hex
U4507 - Front Alloy wheel hex
U4476 - Carbon Fibre Rear shock mount
U4505 - Carbon Fibre Front shock mount
U4500 - Rear idler post
U4508 - Big Bore shock - pro bushing
U4501 - Steering pivots
U4490 - V2 Big Bore MED shock bodies
U4491 - V2 Big Bore LONG shock bodies
U4488 - 12mm Hex Drive pins

These parts will bring your K1 up to the very latest AERO spec for the 2014 racing season.

Cheers

Darryn Johnson

[johnboy]

Rather expensive to do might as well buy a new kit. The price of every item is £251.87 a kit costs about £320 not a massive difference.

[RETRO R/C]

Absolutely - for sure not the very cheapest way to go - however for those on a tight budget - it still a a significant amount.

People can do the upgrades slowly or all at once. Either way - they will still be running a mighty Schuey!!

Cheers

Darryn

[Origineelreclamebord]

Or you could simply update only the things that really matter - I'll admit the carbon chassis, gear diffs and big bores are the most expensive bits, but I doubt the new carbon chassis, top deck and layshaft mounts from the Aero will differ a lot from just buying the 'old' carbon chassis - and for budget conscious K1 owners it may be more interesting sticking with the pin wheels too...

Right?

[mark christopher]

List is wrong. Can not upgrade k1 small bore shocks with just bushes and bodies. You would need caps collars shafts and pistons.

Originally Posted by RETRO R/C

Hi guys,

For those of you drivers running the brilliant CAT K1 - and want to upgrade to the new Aero spec - here is a list of the parts you will need to do the complete conversion:

U4502 - Carbon Chassis
U4503 - Carbon Top Deck
U5123 - Body, mask and decals
U5124 - Rear Aero wing
U4365 - Black Hex rear wheel
U4495 - Black Hex front wheel
U4174 - Gear Diff (you will need 2)
U4498 - Alloy Layshaft mount - LH
U4499 - Alloy Layshaft mount - RH
U4497 - Front nut guard
U4489 - Rear nut guard
U4388 - Rear alloy wheel hex
U4507 - Front Alloy wheel hex
U4476 - Carbon Fibre Rear shock mount
U4505 - Carbon Fibre Front shock mount
U4500 - Rear idler post
U4508 - Big Bore shock - pro bushing
U4501 - Steering pivots
U4490 - V2 Big Bore MED shock bodies
U4491 - V2 Big Bore LONG shock bodies
U4488 - 12mm Hex Drive pins

These parts will bring your K1 up to the very latest AERO spec for the 2014 racing season.

Cheers

Darryn Johnson

[maky]

big bore shafts are different aswell

[cryer-evo]

Any one els had a chance to race or practise with the k1 aero yet ???

[Hans Wynants]

i raced it this weekend @ MIO Oss indoor. was the first time out with the car buth after a couple of battery's the care was fun to drive . with almost standard setup it responds very good. i only changed my steering turn buckles and bolt with the one from Xray , the original ones always jumps loose with the smallest collision... after the change with the xray parts the problem was fixed.

[Dodgy Guy]

Originally Posted by Hans Wynants

i raced it this weekend @ MIO Oss indoor. was the first time out with the car buth after a couple of battery's the care was fun to drive . with almost standard setup it responds very good. i only changed my steering turn buckles and bolt with the one from Xray , the original ones always jumps loose with the smallest collision... after the change with the xray parts the problem was fixed.

I noticed they pop off easy.
Do you have a link to the xray parts you used?

[Paul Field]

Try these U728 Rose Joints M3 from Schumacher


http://www.racing-cars.com/pp/Produc...st/U728.htmlry these from Schumacher

[Dodgy Guy]

Originally Posted by Paul Field

Try these U728 Rose Joints M3 from Schumacher

http://www.racing-cars.com/pp/Produc...st/U728.htmlry these from Schumacher

I actually ran these in my original k1 but would prefer a ball cup to pop off.
I crashed my k1 and damaged a fair few parts because the rose joint didn't pop off.
Thanks though.

[corsair]

Another alternative is to use the pro ball cups U3500.
These almost never pop off, unless the impact is really huge.

[mikeyscott]

Originally Posted by corsair

Another alternative is to use the pro ball cups U3500.
These almost never pop off, unless the impact is really huge.

I used these on my SX, but tried these recently and found they're binding the suspension up, will be checking ball studs etc.

I'm just on kit options and haven't had a problem thus far

[Kurtje]

I've already tried the U3500 and the Lunsford one's for the Schumacher CAT K1 but both pop off on little impacts...

The Xray set holds very well on the Aero from Hans.