RC Monster MBX6 Conv Kit

[Marvin]

Oh right. I use a wheel where the brake throw is only half the throttle anyway (so 50% brake, 100% throttle), and I have my brakes set up to about 30% brake force. It's good enough for me, though if you're coming from Nitro I understand how that may be different.

Can't you change the location of the throttle stick so it always faces slightly downwards anyway? (Making the throttle throw longer than the brake).

[BRS]

There is a 60/40 switch on my throttle stick but all that would do would be to make the throttle travel unnecessarily long Marv. Compared to Nitro the electric is so controllable I'd end up having to dial in positive expo to make it feel like it goes right.

I'll try going max brakes and then upping the end point and see how it is.

[Battle_axe]

Originally Posted by BRS

There is a 60/40 switch on my throttle stick but all that would do would be to make the throttle travel unnecessarily long Marv. Compared to Nitro the electric is so controllable I'd end up having to dial in positive expo to make it feel like it goes right.

I'll try going max brakes and then upping the end point and see how it is.

how about setting the endpoint on the rear to like 30% then set up the esc then put it back to 100% that would give you full breaks at a really short throw of the stick

[BRS]

Yeah I mentioned that earlier, I'm going to give that a try

[jasonwipf]

Ouch that pinion looks bad. an elite rc mount has the pinion out the other way and woulda fell off in a grub nut loosen, plus the extra bearing in the motor mount woulda absorbed alot of the stress you undoubtedly put on that front bearing. They can and will send you a rotor no problem but I would be concerned that front bearing is chewed up alot of its functional life with that sorta of trauma.

[Marvin]

Originally Posted by jasonwipf

Ouch that pinion looks bad. an elite rc mount has the pinion out the other way and woulda fell off in a grub nut loosen, plus the extra bearing in the motor mount woulda absorbed alot of the stress you undoubtedly put on that front bearing. They can and will send you a rotor no problem but I would be concerned that front bearing is chewed up alot of its functional life with that sorta of trauma.

Not necessarily - I've often had pinions that way round, but they have always fallen off forwards. I guess it is just luck.

That's a good point to raise actually, you will probably need a new front bearing in there - the sideways load of the rotor bending would probably be enough to destroy it.

[BRS]

Theres no way that bearing will come off anyway its that bent. I had ordered 2 fronts and 2 rears from rcbearings.co.uk when I got the motor as the rear was nosiey so no biggy.

[jasonwipf]

Originally Posted by Marvin

Not necessarily - I've often had pinions that way round, but they have always fallen off forwards. I guess it is just luck.

No, what I mean is that with increased mass due to the slider and extra bearing in an elitercd mount the pinion has no space to fall inward like that.

[Marvin]

Oh I see.

[BRS]

The Esc wont let you setup with the brake anything less than 100% epa selected....at least not on my radio (Futaba 3VCS)

I've dialed in 90% brake strength and upped to 120% epa and see how that goes....

[Marvin]

Worth a go!

[BRS]

Brakes were a lot better today with 100% strength and 120epa not quite what I'm used too but very driveable.

First time on my home track of Pendle (big dirt track) today, cars ballistic. I was going tripple - single on a section thats only ever been double doubled, was a bit scary...

I weighed my Mugen against Crompy's Mugen, 3.8kg vs 3.3kg (no fuel) that 1/2 a kilo seems to hinder the car a bit over the bumps.

I'm going to try a couple of smaller zippys 5S 2650mah 40c see how they are at $40 each not too bad from Hobbycity.com 250gram lighter than the current 5000mah

Marvin what motor / esc temps should I be looking to see? After a 20min run today the motor was 60c and the esc 55c....
Thanks again for the loan of the rotor its been an ace day in the sun!

[Marvin]

180°F is the most you'll look at for motor temps -> 60°C is 140°F, so you're fine there.

ESC temps are fine as well.

Glad everything went ok, but you're finding out what I did last season - big batteries reduce handling.

[BRS]

Raced at Pendle yesturday with the MBX6e after the practise and testing there last sunday. Track was perfect condition and it was a top day. I'd plugged into the laptop day before and changed the throttle profile from linear to the next one up a more aggressive one. Mistake... it was too aggressive I ended up dialing in 20% neg expo on the radio to get some control back as I was fighting the rear out the turns.
After using what seemed like about 250mah/min I turned down the throttle end point to 90% as it was plenty quick enough and ran some more qualys. The smaller batteries I ordered havent arrived yet so I was looking to try and do 20min final on the 5S 5000mah Zippy pack.

I qualied 2nd behind Crompy and just rolled up to the grid no warm up laps. After thinking I couldnt make the distance I was able to do 4 extra laps at the end and still pull in with juice left. What I have to get used to is the difference in power from the start of the race to the end. After about 8min the power noticably drops of and you have to use alot more stick to achieve the same results. I thought after 10min I would never finish but it was just this drop off in performance as the voltage drops I guess. Fully charged Lipo = 22volt x 1700kv = 35700rpm as it gets towards fully flat that will drop a good 6000rpm. I charged the pack later and it took 4777mah so plenty including the warm down laps. Motor was 60c and Esc 65c at the end will no major ventilation holes in the body...

Anyway finished in 2nd behind Crompy results are here if you are interested
http://www.pdmcc.co.uk/current-season/

Also its a strange feeling driving 20min without stopping for fuel

[BRS]

2 x shiny Zippy 5S 2650mah Lipos came yesturday from Hobbycity...Zippy seem to have upgraded their specs from the 5000mah I bought. Not got any decent scales but they seem half the weight of the 5000mah and the standard mugen shell will fit over these no worries...

5S 2650mah
40C
5C charge rate

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=9949

[BRS]

Raced again yesturday and for the first time with the lighter batteries.

I dont understand how its possible but the car seemed to have less power with the smaller batteries? The batteries are a higher rating 40c over 30c so its weird

5000mah Zippy 5S 30C Vs 2650mah Zippy 5S 40C can that be explained or did I imagine it? I was on Astro after being on dirt previously but I through the 5000mah pack in for the final as I had no one to change batteries at a pit stop and it def seemed quicker and I posted faster lap times?

Hmm

[Dunc]

The current available from the batteries is the product of the C-rating and capacity (in Ah not mAh):

30 x 5 = 150A
40 x 2.65 = 106A

So the smaller capacity pack will feel more sluggish.

I think that's right!

Originally Posted by BRS

Raced again yesturday and for the first time with the lighter batteries.

I dont understand how its possible but the car seemed to have less power with the smaller batteries? The batteries are a higher rating 40c over 30c so its weird

5000mah Zippy 5S 30C Vs 2650mah Zippy 5S 40C can that be explained or did I imagine it? I was on Astro after being on dirt previously but I through the 5000mah pack in for the final as I had no one to change batteries at a pit stop and it def seemed quicker and I posted faster lap times?

Hmm

[Marvin]

Yes, exactly right. You need both capacity and discharge with batteries. It does mean you can get away with lesser discharge rated batteries if you have a high capacity.

[steelie600]

aye if you had a 40c "brick" sam it will be mentally fast!!!!!

5amp x 40c = 200 amp discharge!!!!!!! you can weld 1/4 inch steel plate with a lot less!!!!

[BRS]

Haha well I never I'm not going daft then, thanks!

Now theres a though Kev