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  #61  
Old 02-03-2010
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TRF415 MSXX-MRE (getting ready for parking lot season):

Here it is with the new lid...





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  #62  
Old 08-03-2010
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Default All stickered up

All stickered up
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  #63  
Old 08-03-2010
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Looking good that mister!!
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  #64  
Old 09-03-2010
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Final pics of the chassis. Car perfromed flawlessly last Friday...





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  #65  
Old 12-03-2010
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Here is my 511 & 501xWE.















James
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  #66  
Old 13-03-2010
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Here's my good ol' TRF501Xwe...still rockin' solid!
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  #67  
Old 17-03-2010
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James that is sweet to have a dynamic duo of tamiya's....
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  #68  
Old 17-03-2010
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Here is my old 501x purchased and painted by Telboy in Jan 2007, I think this was the first one he did of this scheme

Sold 2008 to finance a new oven...

...But I have just picked up a RTR 501x off ebay with the same shell pics to follow of that later!


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  #69  
Old 17-03-2010
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Originally Posted by mole2k View Post
My 501x WE






DAMNNN THATS NICE!
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  #70  
Old 17-03-2010
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Not a 501/511 but a DB01 modified tot he ballz. This thing is a force to be reckoned with. Waitin on a 501x to be shipped soon.
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  #71  
Old 17-03-2010
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Good choice going from a Db01 to a 501x.
I'm just guessing they drive the same since they have the same dna
so to speak.

Bet a DB01 would be great on loose dirt, since the drivetrain is sealed from debris.
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  #72  
Old 17-03-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B44&501xRacerEX View Post
Good choice going from a Db01 to a 501x.
I'm just guessing they drive the same since they have the same dna
so to speak.

Bet a DB01 would be great on loose dirt, since the drivetrain is sealed from debris.
I have both cars setup with exactly the same electrics and similar suspension and they still handled differently. The DB is very safe and easy to drive but as a result is less precise, The 501 is more on edge with sharper turn in and is generaly faster on a tight track. Thats why I still run them both, I can pick the car that best suits the track then alter it from there .
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  #73  
Old 18-03-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MRD View Post
I have both cars setup with exactly the same electrics and similar suspension and they still handled differently. The DB is very safe and easy to drive but as a result is less precise, The 501 is more on edge with sharper turn in and is generaly faster on a tight track. Thats why I still run them both, I can pick the car that best suits the track then alter it from there .
I love my DB01. I wouldnt trade for for a darn thing. I even got the 511 clutch spring for both of them. Its supposedly more "accurate" in terms of setting it precisely. Cant wait to try out the trf soon though. Speaking of which...how do you guys have you slipper spring set? Mine is the 3mm Tamiya recommends but It may be too loose...any suggestions? It seems to work fine for me but Ive heard that people tighten it all the way and back out a few turns...
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  #74  
Old 18-03-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyV2382 View Post
I love my DB01. I wouldnt trade for for a darn thing. I even got the 511 clutch spring for both of them. Its supposedly more "accurate" in terms of setting it precisely. Cant wait to try out the trf soon though. Speaking of which...how do you guys have you slipper spring set? Mine is the 3mm Tamiya recommends but It may be too loose...any suggestions? It seems to work fine for me but Ive heard that people tighten it all the way and back out a few turns...
I have the spring at about 3.5mm. I run on an indoor clay track (good traction), and it feels great when I hammer it ...

Now back to the thread
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  #75  
Old 21-03-2010
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A stunning body painted by Tallbloke.

For sale in the sale section of this site.

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  #76  
Old 21-03-2010
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Here is my 511 in air action
TRudiF
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  #77  
Old 01-04-2010
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My new Tamiya for 2010/2011 seasons!!! Now I'm waiting the electronics.
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  #78  
Old 10-04-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T4miy4 Guy View Post
Are those alloy shock caps??

If so where do you get them?

Andy

I have no clue where to buy them. The plastic ones on the car are fine.
Alot of people dont run aluminum caps, and for good reasons.
Users point to extra stress on shock towers and causes them to crack
over a long period of use. Ive never broke a front shock tower.
But I have no reason to run aluminum shock caps either.
The big plastic bumper on the front absorbs all the stress from crashes
pretty well.
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  #79  
Old 16-04-2010
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Does this count ?
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  #80  
Old 16-04-2010
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Quote:
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Does this count ?
Sure does for me!!
Is that a full paint job? If so personally I wouldn't drive with that body and wing. Shelf queen stuff!
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