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  #1  
Old 25-12-2014
JoelMaher JoelMaher is offline
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Default TC02C EVO build

Just starting my EVO build, looks a great piece of kit. Does anybody have any hints or tips on the build to share?
thanks
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  #2  
Old 25-12-2014
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Be careful when you screw the gearbox together,I found that the gears did bind a little so you may have to back the screws off slightly. I know some people that didn't have this problem but I did.

If you have a Dremel,you'll need to put a groove in the chassis where the bottom motor screw goes in. You will struggle to get it in straight if you don't and may cross thread the hole.

Other than those couple of things I would say it's a straight forward build. Only run mine once up to now but was very impressed with it

This a set up sheet from Craig Collinson for his tc02c Evo from Chadderton.
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  #3  
Old 25-12-2014
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......oh,and I've started with 5000wt diff oil
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Old 25-12-2014
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I have ran mine for a few months now and I would say to use a small amount of thread lock on the gearbox screws that go into the motor plate as they can come loose.
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Old 25-12-2014
JoelMaher JoelMaher is offline
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Okay thanks for that lads, I've read about some people having issues with the gearbox? A bearing proud somewhere. Haven't got to that yet has anyone come across it?
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Old 25-12-2014
cocker7433 cocker7433 is offline
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Joel you need to put a ball diff in give us a ring
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Old 25-12-2014
losi100 losi100 is offline
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Hello , there is a hole in the gearbox not deep enough .
This is the hole at the back of the "sllipper" shaft ;
Keep an eye on it but you can take of some material with a dremel so the bearing go deeper or change this bearing against a 10X5X3 ( original is 10X5X4)( losi22_4 front wheel are that particular size )
If you look inside without the modification , intermediate gear goes to bearing side and give a grinding effect noooooo good .
Threadlock also on the screw .
Forget to put a second gasket on the diff itself , on high grip Nico blew the gear in 2 minutes .
5000 x-ray gear oil do a great job
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Old 25-12-2014
JoelMaher JoelMaher is offline
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The b5m ball diff a straight fit Chris?
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Old 25-12-2014
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When you purchased your kit you should have had the revised gearbox. I did with mine plus the original in the box. The updated gearbox was in a packet taped to the side of the box.........

Starting mine tomorrow.......
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Old 25-12-2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by losi100 View Post
Hello , there is a hole in the gearbox not deep enough .
This is the hole at the back of the "sllipper" shaft ;
Keep an eye on it but you can take of some material with a dremel so the bearing go deeper or change this bearing against a 10X5X3 ( original is 10X5X4)( losi22_4 front wheel are that particular size )
If you look inside without the modification , intermediate gear goes to bearing side and give a grinding effect noooooo good .
Threadlock also on the screw .
Forget to put a second gasket on the diff itself , on high grip Nico blew the gear in 2 minutes .
5000 x-ray gear oil do a great job
I'd been speaking to Kev Lee (Insideline Racing) regarding the gearbox, there has been a revised gearbox moulding released.

I'd try building it first, if the bearing fouls the idler I'd check with your supplier regarding getting hold of the new mouldings from Team C.
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Old 25-12-2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xfactor View Post
When you purchased your kit you should have had the revised gearbox. I did with mine plus the original in the box. The updated gearbox was in a packet taped to the side of the box.........

Starting mine tomorrow.......
I type too slowly
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  #12  
Old 26-12-2014
JoelMaher JoelMaher is offline
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Haha too late, already had the dremel out. Seems fine now though
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  #13  
Old 26-12-2014
cocker7433 cocker7433 is offline
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Joe the tco2c one or the b5m one just have to shim the tco2c one a lot
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  #14  
Old 27-12-2014
Gavin Collingwood Gavin Collingwood is offline
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Yeah Joel don't bother with the gear diff, I've shimmed the tc02c diff out and all is fine, I also noticed the car is much better with 30 degree caster and 4 degree toe block with +1 degree rear hub put in reverse to give total of 3 degree toe. I've also added weight under servo, under the speedo section and under the lipo. I can change these around for different handling characteristics
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Old 27-12-2014
JoelMaher JoelMaher is offline
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Thanks Gav, do you run all that weight in the wet? Also do you use shorty or saddles
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  #16  
Old 27-12-2014
Gavin Collingwood Gavin Collingwood is offline
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Well this latest weight kit I've made I've not tried yet, I run shorty all the way forward only time I run the shorty back or middle is on grass.
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  #17  
Old 27-12-2014
Gavin Collingwood Gavin Collingwood is offline
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Picture of the weight kit attached joel
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  #18  
Old 28-12-2014
JoelMaher JoelMaher is offline
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Looks smart thanks gav
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  #19  
Old 28-12-2014
BenGab BenGab is offline
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Hi Guy's, I am very new to RC racing. I find these posts very interesting as I have two TC02C Evo's for my kids.

Gavin, when you fit the weight kit what does the weight of the car goes up to and what does the weight distribution goes to? What did you use to create the weight? What is the change to the cfg height?

I am very interested in the modification as most of the time we run on very high grip track (Silverstone) and the car has a tendancy to just roll over. In order to prevent it we have gone very stiff on the springs but the car is very twitchy.

It might actually be an idea to start a thread specific to the TC02C Evo set up?

Thanks for your help.

Arnaud
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  #20  
Old 28-12-2014
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Chalkie Chalkie is offline
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Hi Arnaud

You can sometime buy the weights or people make them out of brass sheet, and there's nothing wrong with using the stick on weights for balancing full size car wheels.

Adding weight in general will make the car less responsive and therefor easier to drive on high grip, while adding weight to the front of the car tends to make the turn in less twitchy on high grip.

At Silverstone try adding 40g of weight around the steering servo area to start with, or you can always ask me or Alec for some advice.
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