Stealth 1/10 tc

[terry.sc]

Originally Posted by Paulnuneaton

tell you what we should all walk round with bearskin hats big grey coats all drive the same car a lada and all holiday in southend.
Give the guy who makes the car a chance as for a moped pulling a caravan some parts of bradford you will see it

So those of us who can see the car is something that's been tried before with the Tamiya F103GT and didn't work are supposed to keep our opinions to ourselves because they aren't positive rather than join in the discussion? It's hard to be convinced when your argument centres around it being British and different.

The biggest reason you have given seems to be that it's British, then what's wrong with the cheaper and easier to drive Schumacher Mi1? After all if someone wants to step up from Mardaves to touring cars why buy anything but a club spec or second hand touring car. You won't be able to use the Britishness of it as a valid reason to choose it when there is an alternative in the Mardave V10.

Like others here I have been following the development of this car and to be honest I was surprised they went for a double wishbone front suspension from a touring car, if it used the sliding kingpin front end the prototype car had then a change of wheels would convert it to a GT10 so it could race in an existing class. The double wishbone front end also surprised me as it's moulded plastic so bought in, while the original front end was made in house so surely cheaper. The only thought I have over the front end married to a pan car rear is that Radshape are deliberately aiming to build a car that isn't compatible with current classes which isn't going to help sales as not only do you have to convince racers to try the car, but also try a completely new class. Conversely if the idea is to ignore racing rules and make a car for bashers, that's a non starter as for £40 less you can get a RTR Maverick Strada.

I can only guess the complexity and the limited production leads to the high price, but the reason for a lot of the negative comments is the quoted price. Who is going to pay £149 for the Stealth when the Mardave V10 will be cheaper, for £20 less you can get a Schumacher Mi1 and for £30 more you can buy a full carbon CRC Gen-X10LE. I know the quality of the Stealth will be good, but then so is the quality of the other cars I've listed. If the price came down I'm sure more will be sold.

The one thing the Stealth isn't is a stepping stone to touring cars. Really it's a rival to the new Mardave V10 (with a bigger price tag) and is yet another class of car to be accommodated. Considering F1s aren't exactly filling the clubs when if you want a 1/10th scale rwd car you can buy the F109 for a lot less, if you want a rwd touring car just stick a saloon shell and F104 wheels on an F109. I do know that if someone turned up at my club with a Stealth it would just end up racing at a disadvantage in with the f1s and pan cars.

One thing going for it is spares availability, being made and sold by Radshape, but for many people easy access to spares isn't that important a reason for choosing a car, just look how many people are using 3Racing F109s compared with those running Tamiya F103 and F104.

Us doubters wait to be convinced, although all of us would be very happy if Radshape will be successful with this and hope it leads to bigger and better products..

[qatmix]

I wonder if anyone has seen one of these in the flesh yet? I'm interested to know if they got a class of them racing at Ardent etc

[Gazza]

Well having been to Radshape HQ I was delighted to say the least that Chris Dickinson. . .
Gave me a kit to play with which was the Stealth . . . WOW

So the only thing when you get back home is like any other 12 year old kid would do
Yep run into the work shop clear the bench and. . . . B U I L D
On opening the box you are going to be stunned by the Quality of the Parts and how the engraving stands out on the metal bits

Don’t think that this is like any other model car kit you may find from the Far East . . .
Oh no the people at Radshape do make parts for real cars Like Range rover / Morgan / Bentley and even Rolls Royce so you can imaging the quality of the Materials and the craftsman’s ship that this place has they had all there top people on this right from the C.A.D guys down to or is that up to Chris himself
(Sorry Chris LOL)
So before I started I thought it appropriate to get every thing out the box and take a snap shot

So its all here ready to go does not look much to look at but the Quality is 100% English engineering and it does not get better than this well done to the guys at Radshape Engineering :cheers:
You will probably notice from the Above Picture that some of the items that are time consuming and need experience to set up like the Shock absorbers are already built. . Nice.
Even the rear axle blocks have the bearings already in so take out guessing which way round. . So let’s start the build shall we?
Start off by building the Chassis and T bar with the screws and washers this is straight forward build just follow the diagram but be aware the pictures of the bolts and washers are NOT TO SCALE . . . so you could get confused
I mentioned this to Chris and thought that this needed sorting out as it’s hard for a company like Radshape that have people who are engineers and used to this sort of thing but for a Beginner it could be confusing So I put all the fixings in a container to sort through as I needed them

also I would like to see the items for say the chassis and T bar in Bag A and rear pod items and fixings in bag B and so on like in so many other builds but this reminds me of the time I was a Young kid building is first model Meccano kit with nothing more than an exploding diagram
(This way it gets the young minds of kids to explore the build and not just look at a book and copy it. . . LOL also works for adults as well)
oh how I loved my Meccano I spent hours in front of a coal fire in the winter when we had 3ft of snow yea 3ft I kid you not. . . . Any way

A Meccano Rolls Royce . . . ahhh bisto sorry I mean ahhh those where the days
So with the M3x10 bolts just for those who are not sure most nuts and bolts now days in England are of the “M” standard (metric) and not imperial so an M3x10 is a diameter and x10 is 10mm long and M3x5 is 5mm long OK
So Page 4 section 2 is all about the Ally posts now pay attention here class as there is 27mm & 28mm long as with all metal to metal use a dab of lock tite on the thread
Now the front end blue alloy wish bone don’t fit it up side down see below

Next up is the battery tub and this has the laser cut STEALTH in it looks nice and again the quality is superb

Now moving onto the front control steering arms all bearings where in a bag with the diff as you build these up look at the pictures and build a left and right version make sure when built you have the recommended 5mm and 4.5mm ball joint gap for the camber setup
Now onto the front wish bone and again take note with regards the wish bone pivot pins length also some spacers for adjusting the caster. . . . Nice I like this also some long grub screws for ride height down stops the shocks are all the same and feel so smooth and are fitted next then before you know it its all done


The rear end is so easy to do I had it done in no time

And before I knew it . . . Oh look its all done

The diff in the instruction says comes ready built but as mine was a possible pre production I had to make it up but the instructions are straight forward like most diff’s oh don’t worry about the thrust ball race left over it goes on the end of the wheel.
As I’m into brushless racing these days I thought it best to go for a 13.5 and 2s LiPo but alas the Brushless motor wont allow me to mesh the gears 84 spur and 23 Pinion. . So a phone call to Chris and it works fine on the one we have . . . hmmm so looking at the mounting holes on the axle blocks and the hole on my motor
It’s now clear that the holes are about .5 to 1mm out?

So Chris sends me a motor and sure enough it mesh’s no problem the holes on the motor can are about .5mm different and as in the picture below you can now see its easier to mesh

So I’m going to swop my spur gear from an 84 to say a 78 or 80
So all that’s needed now is your radio gear electrics and away we go oh yea and fit the Touring Car style rubber wheels
I will be doing another piece on the STEALTH as a track review as Chris told me he has some Foam tyres. . :cheers:
And I would like to compare the cars together on the track and get some video's for you all
So stay tuned folks
Stealth Web Site

[qatmix]

Cheers for that, be good to see what it's actually like on the track.

[mark77woody]

Originally Posted by qatmix

I wonder if anyone has seen one of these in the flesh yet? I'm interested to know if they got a class of them racing at Ardent etc

I've got one of these had for a few weeks now. I love it, proper handful to drive need to be sensitive on the throttle for sure. Need lot of skill to hold drifts (skill which I don't have). The fact that it's direct drive means it is so rapid had mine in large car park other day and barely use half throttle. I swear it does 45+mph with my 13.5 brushless set up. Went to local club on carpet and had awful time though grip roll everywhere, I could improve this of course but it'll never compete with the 4wd tc's. Not sure I really like the club much pay 7 quid and get a total of 10 mins track time. smooth tarmac and lots of it and the car rocks!