"Monster" Mike Cronin explains the RC-Monster Slipperential

HandyRacing · #1 01-12-2009

niggs98 · #2 01-12-2009

has anyone got any experience with running these yet ????

MiCk B. · #3 01-12-2009

Hey,

I got to drive an electric RC8 for an afternoon. Can't report too much from the short test. But it appeared to work. Was able to drive it similar to a 1/10, no need to feather in landing off jumps.

Felt safe having that little give in the drive train.

For comparison, I've driven an electric 1/8 buggy & truggy that had a normal centre diff. Both had to be driven very carefully to save the drive train. The truggy drive train didn't last the day, went from 4wd to 2wd to no wheel drive!!

MiCk B. :-)

HandyRacing · #4 01-12-2009

I hear of one person we race with who is trying one, but I haven't had an opportunity to ask them about it yet.

We drove a Jammin X1CR for a year, and now a Losi 8IGHT (both converted to brushless by us with RCPD conversion mounts and trays)... have had no trouble with the drive trains in either. We run the plastic Kyosho spur and MOD1 pinion. One does need to choose the diff oil carefully to keep things running correctly.

We hope to try out a Slipperential one of these days and report back...

We' also have an RC-Monster brushless conversion, the fit feel and finish (performance) was top notch.

Thanks for checking out our vid.

Marvin · #5 01-12-2009

I've used one a few times at race meetings. It makes the low end a lot more driveable - especially on low grip tracks. It also seems to protect my rotor (a Tekin - where I'd already broken two rotors!) better.

Overall, it makes the car easier to drive and more reliable, calms your throttle responses down too. Only issue is you lose some of the 'pop' that you need over jumps - though still more than ANY nitro - and this is on a loose setting.

HandyRacing · #6 02-12-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by Marvin

I've used one a few times at race meetings. It makes the low end a lot more driveable - especially on low grip tracks. It also seems to protect my rotor (a Tekin - where I'd already broken two rotors!) better.

Overall, it makes the car easier to drive and more reliable, calms your throttle responses down too. Only issue is you lose some of the 'pop' that you need over jumps - though still more than ANY nitro - and this is on a loose setting.

But, we like our wheelies off the starting grid...

(I think there is a Slipperential in one of these, will ask on Saturday)

Marvin · #7 02-12-2009

You can still get it to wheelie - but I drive on a very bumpy track with very little grip - so a loose setting works very well. Tightened all the way, it'll still allow slip when landing jumps etc - but will give plenty of initial 'pop'.

jasonwipf · #8 05-12-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by Marvin

I've used one a few times at race meetings. It makes the low end a lot more driveable - especially on low grip tracks. It also seems to protect my rotor (a Tekin - where I'd already broken two rotors!) better.

Well as for the Tekin motors the first batch was defective. They fixed the rotors and even if you have old or new just put a few drops of green thread lock in rotor and let set and cure 24hrs and it wont happen again. Not sure about a slipper on 4wd. If im on a low grip track I just turn up my throttle exponential and that cures it with out losing too much low end punch when I need it.

Marvin · #9 05-12-2009

I broke one of the first batch. I got sent a V2, which also broke in short order. They just aren't using the correct epoxy/glue/adhesive to bond the magnets to the rotors.

adrictan · #10 07-12-2009

I've been running the RCM Slipper Diff on my Caster F8T for about 2 months now. I like its feel and how power is much more managable and puts less stress on the diff gears. It is money well sspent. In fact, I've ordered another one for my buggy. Those of you who have enough cash should give it a try. You can check RCtech.net. U'll hardly find anyone selling theirs off because it really works!

James · #11 14-12-2009

I understand it can fit the Ve8 but requires a different spur and some work, anyone know much about installing one?
Thanks

Marvin · #12 14-12-2009

It will fit in the Ve8 - sort of. It requires shimming of the bearings to keep it in the diff mounts. Also, the spur (46T) is too small if you use a larger diameter motor (CC-NEU, Neu, Tekin, Tekno). In which case you'd have to use the 52T spur, and raise the diff mounts from the chassis slightly - which won't work 100% because the motor mount screws into the diff top.

Also, to get the body of the slipperential in, you have to do some substantial grinding of the surrounding area, and the top-plate.

James · #13 14-12-2009

thanks for that, any thoughts on it, does it work? and do you have any pics of an install . ?

Marvin · #14 14-12-2009

I really like it - see my comments above.

I did, but I have taken it out again while waiting for the 52T spur - which I'm going to try.

The 46T will work with a large motor if you use a large pinion (I'm using a 17T, and it doesn't even start to mesh. I reckon that a 20T+ would work).

jasonwipf · #15 16-12-2009

Im still on the fence with this one.

While i cant deny that this will really ease up stress on the drive train especially if your gunning it on a jump landing. I haven't really had any drivetrain issues with my direct drive set up to speak of. My drive train will probably not get as loose as quick for sure and have as much backlash as soon as direct drive I'm sure.

As far as toning down excessive low end torque for better traction, you can go to a calmer motor and/or adjust the exponential on your controller to get a similar effect. Then by doing that exponential adjustment, your car actually controls the amps or conserves the power sent to the motor instead of wasting or burning out that energy on a slipper pad.

So far it seams like i'm looking at more cost, things to go wrong or have parts for in my tool box and energy lost or burnt on a slipper pad. Is there a significant angle I'm not considering? Thanks

Marvin · #16 16-12-2009

In fairness, it's not to protect the drivetrain - on 1/8th scale cars, they're solid as a rock - and there's the inherent problem - there's no give when using direct-drive. It's to protect the rotor, and make the car easier to drive over bumps and ruts.

Exponential prevents you from having a linear throttle curve, which I feel is more predictable and easier to drive as the speed and the throttle position are directly proportional.

jasonwipf · #17 16-12-2009

I agree linear does feel better. I only use it on my 2wd cars that slip around alot. going down from a 2600kv castle to my Tekin 1900kv took alot of that overpoweredness and slipping out of my driving and my lap times dropped alot. So far I haven't felt the need to use my expo on my new set up but probably keep the direct drive so i can power up jumps with small take offs. that explanation was great

HandyRacing · #18 20-12-2009

Thanks for the great comments and exploration of this product's features and advantages / disadvantages under track proven conditions. As we at HandyRacing don't have one yet we can't offer any first hand observations, but your input will hopefully prove helpful for anyone who may stumble upon this thread...

adrictan · #19 25-12-2009

I had doubts on the RCM Slipper prior to buying it. Now, I'll recommend it to anyone who's looking to improve the way their stuff runs. The RCM is not that popular in Euro right now but it is in the U.S. I'm from Singapore and almost half of the 1/8 electric racers use it. I have 2 of these. One on my truggy & the other on my buggy. It's really worth a try if u have the cash to spare. It's hard to find a used RCM Slipper online cause those who have tried it, loves it too much to change.