Ball Diff Help

Cremegg · #1 13-04-2013

Hi

I was wondering if anyone could help on the following

I put a new ball diff in before I went to southport last week and ran my car, 4 round in my car was getting no drive

Took the diff out and found the one of the thrust washers had completely eroded down and broke into little bits.

Was this because the diff was too tight? I can't find out why?

I've built the diff from a few videos I'd seen using the correct materials and grease

Any help would be grateful

Many thanks

budfish · #2 13-04-2013

To loose I reckon I remember si's bmax doing the same...............my balls damaged his rings

Lee1972 · #3 13-04-2013

Quote:

Originally Posted by budfish

To loose I reckon I remember si's bmax doing the same...............my balls damaged his rings

Si Coe · #4 13-04-2013

Like I said:

Buds Balls - the best reason ever for a geared diff!

Gavin Collingwood · #5 13-04-2013

Ball diffs need regular maintenance it probably hasn't been serviced enough

Cremegg · #6 13-04-2013

I only built a new one up 2 days before southport

Chris Elworthy · #7 13-04-2013

I used to have this problem with the thrust race on my 22. Whenever I removed the diff screw the thrust would fall apart. The standard TLR black grease isn't sticky enough in my opinion so I used AE black grease instead.

Have you tried rebuilding the diff yet? Make sure you use plenty of black grease so the balls are completely covered, this helped for me.

Chris

Spencer Mulcahy · #8 13-04-2013

Are you using the captured thrust bearing in my opinion theses are a bit pants (others may disagree). I replaced this with washers and balls the captured version doesn't let enough black grease aren't the balls ooh misses. For a diff you need just enough clear on the main balls and PLENTY of black on the thrust.

Cremegg · #9 13-04-2013

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chris Elworthy

I used to have this problem with the thrust race on my 22. Whenever I removed the diff screw the thrust would fall apart. The standard TLR black grease isn't sticky enough in my opinion so I used AE black grease instead.

Have you tried rebuilding the diff yet? Make sure you use plenty of black grease so the balls are completely covered, this helped for me.

Chris

I've rebuilt it now and seems to be a lot better, I've used a lot of black grease for the thrust and clear for the main diff gear, broke it in and seems to be a lot smoother than last time.

Weather permitting...see how it holds up again

Cheers for the help

Cremegg · #10 13-04-2013

If the diff is too tight...could this cause the the washer to disintegrate too?

Chris Elworthy · #11 13-04-2013

Yes maybe,

By tightening the diff tighter it could cause the thrust to crush a little but I found tight (both wheels turn in the same direction not properly differential) was the only way to run it without the horrible barking/slipping problem. The screw I find on the TLR diff doesn't allow for very fine adjustment but is a solid unit.

You may find that next time you remove the screw the thrust has collapsed again but tbh now it's built and you can adjust the tension from outside you shouldn't need to worry as once the screw is tightened the thrust isn't going anywhere.

Bring it over to me tomorrow and I will check it out for you.

Chris

Cremegg · #12 13-04-2013

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chris Elworthy

Yes maybe,

By tightening the diff tighter it could cause the thrust to crush a little but I found tight (both wheels turn in the same direction not properly differential) was the only way to run it without the horrible barking/slipping problem. The screw I find on the TLR diff doesn't allow for very fine adjustment but is a solid unit.

You may find that next time you remove the screw the thrust has collapsed again but tbh now it's built and you can adjust the tension from outside you shouldn't need to worry as once the screw is tightened the thrust isn't going anywhere.

Bring it over to me tomorrow and I will check it out for you.

Chris

Ok Chris cheers, ill bring it over to have a bit of a check.

Could you also look at my setup for an astro track too?

Chris Elworthy · #13 13-04-2013

Yeah no problem. Do you have some blue front springs? They're a neccessity with the 22 as you want the front end as stiff as possible. The 22 isn't the best car in the wet but we should be able to get it working ok, I've sorted those tyres for you btw which should help. I found 35 wt oil in the front with 55 pistons and 27.5 weight, 55 pistons in the rear worked for me. If you have those oils try to get it changed tonight as working in the rain ain't too much fun.

Chris

Cremegg · #14 13-04-2013

Cheers mate, I'll try get it done tonight, I have blues on front and yellows on the rears

Is the reply you sent for a wet setup?

Gavin Collingwood · #15 13-04-2013

Never had a problem with mine.

Chris Elworthy · #16 13-04-2013

Yeah those are the springs I ran most of the time.

Chris

Cremegg · #17 13-04-2013

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chris Elworthy

Yeah those are the springs I ran most of the time.

Chris

Is the oil you recommended for all weather types? Or was that just for wet setups?

Chris Elworthy · #18 13-04-2013

With most chassis you generally leave the oil and adjust other things to achieve the setup. 35/27.5 is a good all rounder oil setup for the 22 I found. You can adjust springs/link lengths and roll centre to achieve better overall grip.

I will talk you through it tomorrow.

Chris