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#21
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Moulded carbon tub with the kick-up included in it would be dialled!
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#22
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you sure about turning the timing 180 degrees? If so, that would make my mod a heck of a lot easier, as I was planning on slightly modding the gear box. I think to do the mod properly I may still mod the tranny anyway, as it will make installing motors easier in the long run. I am thinking about making a skinny chassis, can I use my B4 chassis? And just cut off sides, and re-enforce it?
Thanks Ben
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#23
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yeah but why would you do that? it's the ideal place to mount electronics low and it would give the car alot more flex around the axis in the lenght (let's call it X-axis) In the attachment you can see how Elvo and me reinforced our Saddle pack B4 prototype.
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#24
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right, that looks good. I may do something like that, or consider taping them in
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#25
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You'd be relying on the bracing that normally goes either side of the cells for strength, but it wouldn't be there
I don't see any advantage to having a super skinny chassis like the Durango, we don't have issues with the sides grounding anyway on the B4 as the chassis curves up at the sides |
#26
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Cooper, I bet that still twists though, as the two carbon braces aren't tied to each other, though about doing a one peice topdeck??
TYRC, ther is no advantage, like Richard said, in chopping off the sides, the only way to go with that idea, to a narrow double deck carbon chassis....
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dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#27
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DCM: yeah but we don't want to waste expensive carbon for that
first test is to see if the concept works and can always be refined later, the braces used here are chopped carbon Losi baterry braces (recycling saves the planet!)
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www.rc-offroad.be Never argue with a stupid man. He will drag you down to his level and beat you because of his experience. |
#28
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99% sure, yes. The brushes are not 90° to the screws.
A narrow chassis looks cool, but that's about it. If the sides are raised like on the B4, and you put the heavy stuff in the middle, that'll be fine. |
#29
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well, I think I may have to go down the skinny carbon fibre chassis
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#30
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is it possible to cut carbon fibre with a jig saw?
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#31
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It's possible but you'll need a reasonably fine blade, one designed for aluminium would probably work. Be careful
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#32
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yeah with all the dust and shards LOL. I think a C.F. chassis will be a future devlopment.
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#33
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A fret saw and a vacumn cleaner would be the easiest and cleanest way, just wear latex gloves, long sleeve top and a dust mask.
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dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#34
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Yes. Expect to change the blade every 10mm you cut. fybre-lite would be the sensible option..... |
#35
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whats a fret saw Steve?
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#36
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dremel ?
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www.rc-offroad.be Never argue with a stupid man. He will drag you down to his level and beat you because of his experience. |
#37
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googles great.... http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp...ite&PID=138450
A jigsaw is a bit like taking tyles off a wall with a jackhammer, not exactly accurate and overkill. The fretsaw is far more accurate, and depending on the blade, can go around tight curves to. An essential item if you do lots of work.
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dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#38
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Quote:
I like to go around tight curves.... |
#39
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me too, but the only chance I got at the moment, is doing bodyshells, lol
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dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#40
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( o )( o )
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