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#21
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Nice work
Just some thoughts: You might need some more of the front sidepods to secure the front after the kick up a bit more. What about a triangle arrangement for the front attachment behind the servo and spacers instead of what you have? What about something like the C4.1 typ battery and rear brace holder/arrangement? A frame to hold the shorty and enough room to hold saddles then you can use foam blocks |
#22
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It's a +8mm chassis. I still have my droop adjustments.
The brace between the FRP and dimec chassis at the front is surprisingly sturdy. Before I installed the top deck I have the joint a good torque to try and deflect it and it was very stable. I'm not worried about it at all. As for the triangle, that's what I originally had, but after working with the FRP for a while, I've realized how sturdy that stuff is. I think a triangle would have been overkill. It'll break where the holes are drilled before it breaks anywhere else and that's just in an area where extra material really can't be added. I may have time to run it today, but that depends on how smooth a job I have this morning goes. I still have FRP left. Not enough for another chassis, but enough to want to do something else... |
#23
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The battery is on the charger and everything is ready to go! Should hopefully be able to run a pack at the track today.
1/30/18 Edit: Rehosted images. Screw Photobucket. Last edited by dex210Nick; 30-01-2018 at 02:52 PM. |
#24
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How are you doing the battery strap?
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#25
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You can't see it in the last picture, but I took a small piece of the FRP and bolted it underneath the top deck to keep the battery from moving forward. On the left side of the car I bolted another piece of plastic, only I used a battery strap thumbscrew to hold it in place so I can somewhat easily remove the battery.
I like having the electronics that far back in the chassis and I'll probably never own a saddle pack. My main concern though is with that stupid roar rule about being able to fit a full size pack. This car doesn't conform to that rule, but I could easily make it comply by moving the electronics and the FRP block on the top deck further front. I did take the car to the track yesterday. The track had been pummeled by rain this week and was super rough and dusty. However, the back end of the car still felt much more planted than the last time I had drove the car there and the track was well groomed last time, too. The turn just before the straight is where I noticed the biggest difference. My car would swap ends if I was too aggressive on the throttle. Even down the straight the car wanted to wander and felt unsure. Now I can pull out of that turn quicker and the car felt very sure footed down the straight. No more wandering. Definitely an improvement and worth all the work! I wrecked a good few times and the chassis held up well. I think I might have a tweak in the chassis or a misalignment somewhere. On heavy acceleration the car pulls to the left and on heavy breaking the car pulls to the right. |
#26
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Quote:
Another option would be to make the battery stoppers movable to the edges of the chassis (so you CAN fit a stick pack)... |
#27
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I have some 4mm GRP so I might try this and I have an extra chassis I can cut up... maybe even the stock chassis kick up
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#28
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Quote:
Thing is, at the recent roar nats the rule wasn't actually enforced. Tessman's buggy was set up to only accept a shorty pack and still passed tech. The rule will likely change, but for now it's there. |
#29
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Quote:
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#30
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If you decide to make your own, a little trick I figured out is to hold the original chassis against the FRP and use it as a guide for drilling the holes. Put a bolt in the first hole you drill, then drill another hole on the opposite corner and bolt that one. Then you can drill all your holes without worrying about your guide moving while you drill. It worked pretty well. Just don't do what I did and try to use a bigger bit to countersink the holes. Either use button head screws or buy an actual counter sinking bit. I also cut the nose off my stock chassis flush with the front of the weight cutout.
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#31
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new 210 chassis
dex210Nick,
any figures for the car e.g. wheelbase? weight? weight distribution - front/rear? I'm assuming you cut the kickup off your old chassis? Left / right problem - are the front and rear axles parallel to each other? Keep up the experimenting. |
#32
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Im wondering if I should countersink the front so that it is level with the bottom of the front chassis or just file the grp at an angle. As it will probably catch on everything if its lower than the kick up
What do you think? Your FRP is thicker than the stock chassis right? Whats the raising of the front half and raising the gearbox going to do OR you could say lowering of the chassis? Just change ride height settings? Did you cut out for the diff housing? |
#33
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CC44,
I based this chassis off of my +8mm chassis, so it is longer than the kit aluminum chassis. I think I measured about 280mm with rear hubs full forward and front hubs full forward. Yes, the kickup is from the dimec chassis. Fortunately the way TD designed this car it made it extremely easy to bridge the two chassis pieces without any special parts. As for the f/r weight distribution, I don't have access to scale right now. I think I know what the left/right problem is. I think my front end is on a little cattywampus. I measured the wheelbase on both sides and one side is about 2mm longer than the other side. Unfortunately I will be out of town on business for the next two weeks so I will not be able to update until then. I will be home on the weekend to race it and maybe get a little work down, depending on how much my wife lets me work on it Kiwi, My chassis is 1/8", or ~3.125mm. The stock chassis is about 2.5mm so mine sticks out about .5mm lower than the front chassis kick up. I didn't notice any problem with it catching anything when I had it on the track. I really didn't check anything with ride height, though. I did cut out the diff housing, so everything is mounted flush to the chassis like it should be. |
#34
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Quote:
If you want to keep the edge from catching, you could use Shoe Goo, Epoxy, etc to make a shallow angled chamfer or smooth transition. To be honest though, I'd try to keep the original thickness of the chassis if possible, as so not to alter the balance between suspension position at a given ground clearance |
#35
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Well this is what I put together today. Pretty happy with how it turned out, looks an inbetween of the Yoko mr2 and C4.1
Ill maybe run it on Wednesday if I get out. Road tested and it goes straight! +11 with 4mm GRP RDRP anti squat block 38gms? and tresrey alu bulkhead with 10 gms in that Flipped arms and rear shocks There is still a bit of flex where the top deck is connected to the brace so thinking that if I have the battery where it s (battery stop behind it) then Ill look at screwing the brace to the chassis. Or ill look at getting long turnbuckles and put ball studs in the upper brace holes where it screws to the diff house and then infront of the saddle pack position or shorter if its shorty only |
#36
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looks good! What did you end up doing about your chassis thickness?
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#37
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Nothing besides sand and superglue the front bit after the kick up so it doesnt catch
I have now put on some 90° lexan around the edges with velcro to help secure the bodyshell that is now too high |
#38
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210 weight distribution
Hi all,
I've been following all the posts and even done some dremelling on my 210 but was never too sure what the cars normal weight distribution was, so I got some digital scales out & measured the cars weight distribution - the results: Standard car in mm4, saddles down the middle, no transponder but otherwise ready to race, total weight 1,575g with 61% on the rear. As above but the plastic rear battery stop replaced with a Cream 24g brass one - 1,596g with 61.2% on the rear (expected a bigger increase). As above with an extra 20g sticky weight added in front of the Cream weight (i.e. between saddles and the Cream weight) - 1,614g with 61.5% on the rear. As above but changed saddles for a shorty, all the way back - 1,548g with 63% rear. Shorty turned around 90 degrees - ~ 63.5%. Has anyone weighed the car with a side by side saddle conversion? |
#39
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I havent weighed mine as I only have one set of scales (Id like to get 4 of those small ones) but Ill try today.
I drove mine yesterday and thought it worked really well. I need to lighten up the shocks a little but all in all it worked really well |
#40
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weight bias
OneKiwi,
one will do - just rest one end on the scales & the other on a stand of similar height. Then swop ends. I then check that the two axle weight equal the cars total weight. Seems to work well. |
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