Project Team Kassanova TR3 (TC3 truggy)56k warning

[Col]

You boys are aware that Ethan lives in Colorado?

[EDS]

Michael: Thank you
Mike: I agree with you they do need preload spacers. In alittle I am actually thinking about switching to some touring car shocks if I can find for some for free. Set-up makes the suspension very soft even with hard springs.
Ben: Thank you. No there is currently no class for these though I can still race it at the local tracks. I think these cars should become a class becuase it would be the perfect class. 4wd with ST stability

Haha yes I do live in colorado. Seems like most of you guys live "across the pond"

A small up date today I worked more on the 8 piece rollcage. I will tell you guys more about that when its finished. I also took it apart and cut a motor hole and did some sanding on the chassis.

Ethan
TeamKassanova.com

[Mike Hudson]

what shock oil have you used? If the setup is too soft then experiment with higher weight oils and this should solve your too soft setup problem, i would think touring car shocks wouldn't have enough travel

[annie_himself]

I'm gonna guess you will need the same fix the Revo guys use. Sway bars.

[EDS]

Mike: I haven't really seriously exsperimented with anything yet. I can jsut tell its really soft with stiff springs. Preload spacers and oil may fix it. I think the touring car shocks should have about the right amount of travel with the set up there really isn't much shock compression.

Annie: I sure hope I don't have to use sway bars.

[annie_himself]

We'll talk about it. Just bring it up next time we talk.

[Richard Lowe]

The shocks and rockers look too big to me compared to the travel you want. You can either put TC shocks on with really small hole pistons and very hard springs, or buggy front length shocks with smaller rockers

[annie_himself]

I suggested X10 or X11 rockers. Remember?

[EDS]

Richard: Hmmm yea people have been telling me this. Well I will be keeping it with the T3 shocks and see how they work once I get everything built if I have to I will get some touring car shocks. I am not really interested in buying smaller rockers though.

Yes I remeber.

As far as updates... I put some bids on ebay for ntc3 front/rear hub carriers, pivot balls,and some blue wheel nuts. The auction only came with one set of hub carriers and pivot balls but I needed an extra set of pivot balls for the inside mounts so I just bought another package with hub carriers so I will have extra's. These parts should be in by Saturday and then I can start designing the a-arms. Still trying to figue out a material to use. Delrin looks to be a bit exspensive at $40 for 12"x12" so I was thinking about getting some 3/8" lexan instead but I am still trying to decide. I also may have the a-arms cnc'ed by a friend instead of hand cutting them. Thats another decision I have to make. Peace Ethan

[greeny]

Originally Posted by EDS

Richard: I will get some touring car shocks.

i would recommend some xray touring car shocks or some tamiya trf shocks... as these (if i remeber correctly) are the longest touring car shocks.

other than that i think the project looks very good ethan... just a quick question... how much has all this work cost you?

i wouldnt mind doing it myself.


thanks jordan

[EDS]

Jordan:Once I get it built and drive it I will be able to see if forsure I need touring car shocks. Shocks aren't cheap so I will probaly have to go with the best deal I can find. I am hoping that I can find some Aluminum threaded tc3 shocks. That way I can put some "rally" shock shafts on them if I need the extra length.

As far as cost well becuase I have had trial and error I have spent more then I would have too. My guess though is if you where to find good deals on parts like I did you could probaly build something like this for $200 or soo. Not sure though. Might be alittle bit more. The worst parts are like the diffs,shocks,and Cvds.


The ntc3 parts came in today and WOW i am not used to working with such beefy parts. I think I will have a hard time breaking these. They look like they will work better than exspected. As I was taking them apart I figued out another thing about the pivot ball supspension you can use it as a VLA or variable length .Like the technology used on the losi trucks/buggies. You can basically tune the length of the a-arms by screwing or unscrewing the pivot balls with out changing width. By putting spacers in the axles it keeps the same width. This also helps me becuase I can turn two pivot balls on each hub and it makes it so that the hub is brought close to the center making it so that the cvd is pushed farther into the outdrive so that I can have maximum clearance for bashing and then when i want to race I can make it so that I can go back to the max width with level a-arms, by unscrewing the pivot balls. I will be designing the a-arms over the weekend and hopefully buying some material soon if the money is there.

[annie_himself]

I don't even hear this much about the TR3. Post it on our forum too.

When do you think you will have it all together and running again?

[LEGEND]

That is a cool looking car.

[Mike Hudson]

How long will it be till the project is fully finished? Also how long have you been working on this?

[EDS]

Annie: I will be putting up a thread soon.
Legend: Thanks.
Mike: Well.... Right now I am at the point where I just need to make some a-arm mounts and a-arms. Along with finishing up alot of little stuff. It depends on if I can scravenge enough money up for the delrin or lexan. I am hoping by mid feb. At the latest. Could be sooner or later. No gurantee's But it depends on what you consider being finished. This V2 proto will be finished then but I do plan on making another car, which would be basically the same car except having all the handmade parts be cut from a cnc and a few improvments. It would be more of a production car cough cough. Ummm as far as how long I have been working on it. I started getting ideas and parts for the project about two years ago. Officaly the project started on 7.30.06 or a few weeks before that.

[nitrokillah]

Brilliant Idea.
this could become a new classe of Racing.
this is the same way 1/8 truggys came about.
Keep up the good work and keep us up to date with the rpogetion of the Kit.

[EDS]

Thanks! Yes I would hope that would become a new class. Recently I have been hearing alot of requests for a 4wd St. I know HPI tried it awhile ago but it wasn't popular. Now days with lip and Brushless 4wd ST's would/will be monsters on the track with the added traction. It also is a good bashing vehicle. 4wd buggies have too low of ground clearance and break too easily. I think this truck/truggy is going to be the perfect blend for racing and bashing.
Ethan

[EDS]

Bad news... I sent the lower chassis and some pivot ball parts and a few drawings to a friend of mine so that he could make me some aluminum pivot ball a-arm mounts. He got the chassis and parts yesterday and tells me that the chassis broke in shipping. With no insurance I can't get any money from the post office but The chassis broke in the same area around where the spur gear is and where the rear of the chassis hooks on. I figue that if the chassis in a padded envelope couldn't handle USPS then it probaly couldn't handle brushless power and 10 ft jumps. Though I had a aluminum brace to go on the chassis in the works. Now I have to make a new chassis or have one machined by the company machinist. I don't have anymore g10 so the first decision is what material to use?
1.G10
or
2. Alloy
The second thing I have to worry about is fixing the design to add material to the back. I am not sure a aluminum brace would make it strong enough. Also with the pivot ball mount design I can't cut the chassis any different to make that area stronger. So I came up with a few ideas...
1. Put 3/16" spacers under the rear diff case so that I don't have to have a spur gear hole.
Advantages: Easy,cheap,light, still keep pivot ballsupsension
Disadvantages: Raises CG and also increases the angle that the cvds slope down to the hubs which would increase cvd plunge and decrease ground clearance
2. Scrap the inner pivot ball "hingepinless" idea and go with a much more simple set up such as something similar to the tc4,t4,b4 hinge pin design just on the chassis but keep the pivot ball hubs.
Advantages: Simple, Cheap,Lowers cg,strong, can be used with t4/gt2 a-arms when useing tc3 rear hubs and tc3 front hubs.
Disadvanteges: Calls for shorter a-arm,less clearance,more traditional and not innovative, more friction.
3. Modifiy the slipper clutch, add dogbones, move to a mid motor mounted set up such as a b44 or bj4 WE. Use either the pivot ball or t4 suspension.
Advantages: More balanced,Can lower the diff cases to lower Cg and decrease cvd plunge, can make it longer by using long dog bones, no spur gear hole on the rear, can use either type of suspension.
Disadvantages: Saddle packs, most exspensive, have to redesign top/bottom chassis.

The last thing is if I should get the chassis cnc'ed or hand make it. I sorta wanted this version to be a prototype which most of the parts where hand made by me. But if I have to buy a whole nother sheet of g10 or a alloy sheet it seems smart that I would just have it cnc'ed. Especially since I am tired of g10 affecting my lungs and the cncing would be close to free.
I am having a hard time making these decisions , I am naturally a bad decision maker... so all the help would be appreciated. I am pretty sure I don't want to do option one though.

Thanks Ethan
Team Kassanova

[annie_himself]

I do know one thing. The USPS is HARSH on every package. My mom works there now and she usually does my packages so they are ready to ship. I am about to ship the TK2 to Chewie and I will have to get that thing packaged good. I would have told you that just a bubble-wrap envelope wouldn't work.

What thickness was that G10?

[EDS]

yea I should have put insurance on it. I figue though if it can't stand USPS then it couldn't handle a hard crash.

And it was 3mm g10